Stop Rust

Noticed a little rust on the hardware used to mount the battery tray.  After researching rust prevention products and talking with friends I concluded that a paint called "Chassis Saver" seemed to be the answer.  The price is a little steep $17 for 8 1/2 ozs. but if it works the way everyone says it should be worth it.  I have used rustoleum spray paint in the past and the rust seems to come back after awhile.

Took the plunge and bought a can on Friday, prep'ed and painted the battery tray mounting hardware today.  It looks really good right now, only time will tell how well it holds up.  Here are the before and after pictures.

Here is the website for Chassis Saver Paint:

http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp



Barry

Interesting product.  I wonder if it is similar to POR-15 beause they run about the same cost per ounce.  I used POR-15 on my pickup truck frame.  Four Chicago winters later (with all that salt) and it is holding up beautifully.  Though I did apply 2 coats and a top coat of Rustoleum paint.

I really need to do something about the back side of my entry step.  The sheet metal in back has concerning rust.  I can see it well from below and also from the battery tray when slid out.  One more thing to take care of.

Thanks for sharing.

Ron,

   It is similar to POR-15.   I heard that it is a little better.  I had my choice between the chassis saver and por-15 so chose the chassis saver.  It actually adheres better when there is rust. 

Barry

I really need to do something about the back side of my entry step.

One thing I would caution you on when working on the step is to make sure none of this "paint" gets on the area where the step slides in and out.  You do "NOT" want to fuse the step to its brackets or the step may not move any more.

Thanks for the tip Barry-Sue.

I should give Chassis Saver a try since I aready have worked with POR-15.

One thing I recall about POR-15, it had something to do with exposure to the sun.  It goes on Jet-Black but with UV exposure, it supposely turns cloudy to a mikly gray color.  Given I painted over my POR-15, I'll never see that happen.  Does Chassis Saver state the same UV discoloration?

One thing I noticed working with POR-15 on my pickup truck, and I assume the Chassis Saver would behave similarly.  When I first applied it with a brush on the top surfaces of the frame, a few drips ran down the side.  I had moved on working in another area, later noticing those drips.  They had spread horizontally against gravity as much as a half inch in each direction.  It was quite impressive how POR-15 penetrated the metal like that.

Backing up the point about getting that stuff on your skin.  I did get a little on me.  It was nearly 2 months before my skin shed the last of it.  Good thing it didn't drip on my face.

Prior to applying the POR-15, with the truck's bed off the frame, I banged the frame with a hammer to first get off all loose rust.  Much rust looked like surface-only but after banging, solid-looking material came flying off.  That took two evenings.

That project had me in a boat-load of regret.  But $600 later and all those man hours behind me, it took about 6 months to appreciate the vehicle.  Four years later and all remains well.

Ron

Chassis Saver has the same UV warining.  I'm not going to top coat it and wait and see how gray it gets and how it looks.

Barry

Chassis Saver has the same UV warining.

Hmm, it sure sounds like the same stuff.  Maybe the patent window has past and now it is offered by others under different names.  POR-15 has been around for maybe 20 years.  Maybe it's time.

Backing up the point about getting that stuff on your skin.  I did get a little on me.  It was nearly 2 months before my skin shed the last of it.  Good thing it didn't drip on my face.

Ron,

    A good adhesive remover will work to get products like this off your skin without any damage to the skin.  We use this at home
http://www.amazon.com/Uni-Solve-Adhesive-Remover-Wipes-Box/dp/B0057Z6BJM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1342704103&sr=8-4&keywords=uni-solve+adhesive+remover

    Many local medical stores carry it, in fact when our local Walmart had a medical store in it they also carried it.

    It works really well.

Sue

Good to know Sue, Thank You!

Hi Barry! This is a very old post but I am getting ready to buy this stuff and try to get it on the rig, hitches and tow plates and not myself. How did the color hold up? And if the color faded, does that seem to weaken the material or is it still going strong?

Also, did you paint inside the hitch receiver? I have rusty looking stuff in that and hope to hit it with something knowing full well it will get ground back off again... but hopefully slowly.

John and Holly

The chassis saver has held very well.  It did fade a little so I top coated it with spray rustoleum and it still looks brand new.  The material has not weakened at all.

I did not do the inside of the hitch.  I just periodically rub some oil on it. 

Barry

Thanks Barry! Now I just have to find the stuff... Or bite the bullet and pay the excessive shipping. I checked their listed dealer in Frederick before we hit the road and they never heard of it. Once we finish our summer adventure with the grandchild, we'll have time to hunt stuff and hopefully get it done.

Based on this thread I got a can of POR-15 from Amazon.  I had noticed that the metal box under the steps had never been painted so was starting to rust.  I'm not sure if the non-painted box was a miss on my coach or if that is the way they are all but I wanted mine painted.

I can say that the POR-15 is not fun to apply when laying on your back working above.  It is not paint, but rather extremely runny and has the ability to get attached to anything.  Even with gloves I managed to get enough on me that I had to use a stiff brush and Goo-gone to get it off.

The finish looks great and it wicked in to any cracks or joints with ease.  Long term I've no idea but better than the rust I'm sure.

One issue was that I had to remove the steps in order to paint the box and that turned out to be a real project.  I still have one of the 4 bolts that I cannot get completely tight.  If anyone has suggestions for that I'm all ears.  The bolt seems to be under the actual door frame and no way to get a wrench onto the top.  I got it snugged up but now it just turns and the lock washer will not grab.

Based on this thread I got a can of POR-15 from Amazon.  I had noticed that the metal box under the steps had never been painted so was starting to rust.  I'm not sure if the non-painted box was a miss on my coach or if that is the way they are all but I wanted mine painted.

I can say that the POR-15 is not fun to apply when laying on your back working above.  It is not paint, but rather extremely runny and has the ability to get attached to anything.  Even with gloves I managed to get enough on me that I had to use a stiff brush and Goo-gone to get it off.

The finish looks great and it wicked in to any cracks or joints with ease.  Long term I've no idea but better than the rust I'm sure.

One issue was that I had to remove the steps in order to paint the box and that turned out to be a real project.  I still have one of the 4 bolts that I cannot get completely tight.  If anyone has suggestions for that I'm all ears.  The bolt seems to be under the actual door frame and no way to get a wrench onto the top.  I got it snugged up but now it just turns and the lock washer will not grab.

Hi jatrax,

I used POR-15 on the frame of an old Ford Ranger I had owned for a while.  Prior to POR-15, I banged off at least a gallon of rust flakes and acid washed the remainder with Muriatic acid.  I had the exact same experience working with it as you did.  It is a great product that requires a lot of respect working with it.  I recall having some drips on raw steel I got to later in the process.  The drips traveled quite far sideways on the rusted steel, penetrating extremely well.

I heard the black color will turn milky from daylight over time, but will maintain it's protection regardless.  On that old truck, I did add two coats of POR-15 and one coat of Black oil-base Rustoleum paint for increased endurance.

Our step box is as you describe, unprotected (or minimally protected) metal.  I procrastinate about painting it.  I keep an eye on it, but the rust on ours is just a very light film that has not gotten worse over the years.

Regarding your bolt that won't tighten.  How much of the threaded stem sticks down below the nut?  If there is a lot, you could double-nut the end of it to hold it still while tightening the primary nut.

If you have some stem but not that much, consider grinding two flats on the stem and hold it still with an adjustable wrench to allow you to tighten the nut.

A 3rd option is to grind a slit 1/8" down the center of the threaded rod, enough to use a flat blade screw driver to hold it still.

A 4th option is to hold any protruding stem still with a vise grip but then you mangled up the threads but good.

Thanks Ron for the bolt suggestions.   I already used #4 with the predictable results.  Which is why I am in the spot I am now, the nut will not go any tighter or will not come all the way off.

Next chance I get I will get back under and see what else can be done.  There is not much room to work but I might be able to get a grinding wheel in there.

(POR15) requires a lot of respect working with it. 

You got that right!  Good stuff but nothing to casually fool around with.  Do your prep work right, wear gloves and appropriate clothing.