4way valve problem

Yep, Amazon   I got a little 1.5 ounce tub.  Enough to last me a lifetime I'm sure.  Should also be available at any food service supplier, the same stuff is used for any equipment that is involved in food prep.  Mixers and grinders and so on.

  Thanks guys, ordering now!

Today I pulled the valve cartridge out thinking it may need the grease mentioned above as it was a little stiff.  I found it adequately lubricated.

I called the valve repair part distributor to inquire about the new brass valve replacement.  I was told the new brass valve body and cartridge are undergoing tests.  They anticipate it will be commercially available by the August time frame.

Not only do the o-rings need lube, but also the disk that creates the indent and click at the four stops. Specifically, lube the side of the disk that is pressed against the plastic barrel by the little spring.

I found it adequately lubricated.

  There was plenty of grease in mine as well, but it was still incredibly tight to turn.  I suspect on mine the grease was not spread around or at least one of the o-rings was missed.  After I lubed mine it turns freely.

Replaced the cartridge in my 4 way water valve, in addition to lubing the cartridge o rings I cleaned the inside of the valve block and lubed it with the little cotton ball on the wire. I applied a thin coating of the Dow 111 grease to the ball and then ran it back and forth inside the cylinder. I think this might help insure that the o rings have some lubricant left on them after the cartridge is pushed into the valve body. I found the cotton ball things in a craft store.

fandj - that is a big OUCH.  I had heard from Dave Ponder that the new version might be in May 1st - they are supposed to send me one.  He did say they keep moving the date so he was not certain about it being in 5/1.

I read long ago, a good grease for potable water valves is uncontaminated Vaseline.  It does not last forever though.  I use it on the drain valve of my fresh water tank and also the shower head water cut-off button.

I read long ago, a good grease for potable water valves is uncontaminated Vaseline.  It does not last forever though.  I use it on the drain valve of my fresh water tank and also the shower head water cut-off button.

Ron, be careful with the use of Vaseline, since it is a petroleum it can breakdown o-rings (those made from rubber or plastic) and make them dry out and crack prematurely. 

Hi Barry,

I have heard of that but that has not been my personal experience in the applications I have used it in.  Not just in those two places in our PC, but I also use Vasoline at home on the "O"-ring seal on our whole house bell jar filter.  If I don't apply the Vasoline on the "O"-ring, I struggle hard to loosen the plastic bell jar when it is time to replace the cartridge.  So far so good doing that since 1988.

But everyone needs to feel right with their decision to use it or not.  If you don't feel right using Vasoline, then don't.  I am just sharing an option that works for me.

Ron Dittmer

While attempting to fill the fresh tank, I had the selector on "tank", but no water was flowing.  I moved the selector half way between tank and  normal and water began filling.  In this position the onboard water pump would not pickup the water.  Only after fully selecting "normal" the pump ran water as......well....normal.  Its not a problem as I have water now but curious if any one else had this happen.  It could indicate  the valves are not lining up correctly and trouble is on the horizon.
Larry

I fought the valve over a couple of hours. The "before" status was it could only be turned with the help of a pair of pliers. The "after" status was it could readily be turned by hand. 

Helpful points:

The video of the process is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWvEEYebwHg&list=LLne92PdZ9QkdpeAfT64CkeQ

The Dow 111 example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002WDU1J8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(It doesn't mention food grade but references the FDA spec on the tube)

The Allen wrench needed is a 2mm hex head allen wrench.

The "push in and twist off" action of the cover was very difficult for me and required pliers.  The valve would not come out until again pliers were used together with a twisting motion. The valve looked well greased but I made sure everything was well covered and the end results were good. I could not get the "push and twist" action putting on the cover to work but trying the cover without the spring showed me the valve was not all the way in. Further pushing and twisting the valve got it in further and the cover and spring could be pushed into place.

I appreciate the information provided earlier in this string and hope my experience will ease someone else's job. 

I made a stop in Elkhart today to get an initial oil change and have a few minor issues fixed before heading north to Alaska. Because I had a small leak when hooked to city water, Dave Ponsler had Doug replace the 4 way valve with one of the brand new brass valves. It took about an hour to install. It’s different- the new valve looks very substantial and only has three positions: Fill at 9 o’clock, winterize at 3 o’clock,  and city/dry camp at 12 o’clock.  This means you no longer have to switch from City to Normal !!!!!!  So far the new valve seems to be working perfectly.  If we have any problems I’ll be sure to  post.  All I can say is customer service at Phoenix is phenomenal.