Login

1

General Discussion / Re: Alternative Fridge?

« on: August 28, 2025, 01:41:50 pm »

Joseph,
A thought occurred to me on your heavy duty wire to provide 12 volts and ground to the replacement... I would search for a "high strand count" cable with silicone (or rubber+silicone) coating. This combination gives the most flexible motion and longest wear life since this needs to move every time the slide goes in and out.   I've done some robotics work in the past decade and this is what they use,,, but much thinner, of course, specifically to endure the motion, vibrations, etc.


The down side is that silicone is slightly more prone to damage so you should consider adding some heat shrink around any spot that might rub something else.


Larry

2

General Discussion / Re: Alternative Fridge?

« on: August 26, 2025, 02:45:45 pm »

Joseph,
I can't contribute any insight on a compressor style refrigerator, and it's an integrating topic that I hope you let know what evolves.  But I can offer some advice on insulation tips that you should do while you have the old refrigerator out and before you put in the new one. I have a lengthy write-up from my refrigerator work here
https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=4820.msg43312#msg43312

In summary, the l top of the refrigerator cabinet really needs to be insulated with large blocks of foamboard. This blocks the heat of the sun beating on the roof, blocks the fridge heat accumulating there and keeps any insects from building nests up there.

The outside wall shouldn't need insulation, but might require different baffles for the new compressor coils. It's much easier to get to that wall while the fridge is out.

The most important places to Insulate are the floor of the back section (between the fridge and outside wall) and the left and right side wall of the back section.  They REALLY need to be insulated. Those boards are very thin.... possibly 1/4 inch thick if they are like mine. Your interior cabin is not very far from the outside air and also not far from the heat generated by the refrigerator. So insulating that left, right, and lower floor in the rear keeps all the refrigerator heat out of the interior of your coach and likewise in the winter it blocks the cold winter air that's back there from entering your coach.   My shower shares a wall with the fridge. It used to get very hot (like a car hood in August!) before I insulated that wall. I also got rid of the cold draft that came out from under the fridge each winter.

One other thing to consider is insulating the back side of the new fridge before it gets installed... I added a half inch to the back side of my norcold. This weekend is was 102F and my freezer stayed at 4 or 5F and the fridge was 34 or 35F... and I had it set only on #4 electric.

Larry

3

General Discussion / Re: Slide out cabinets shaking loose

« on: July 26, 2025, 09:15:52 pm »

I'm curious, were these bolts/screws the ones holding the cabinets to the walls/floor, or somewhere else inside the cabinets?   


It's now a habit to check the drawer slides once a year after noticing one time that my top drawer wouldn't close square because the (filing cabinet style) slide hardware was loose and screws had backed out quite a bit. But(!), I haven't been looking and checking anywhere else and a few times I year I drive through Oklahoma and Arkansas on their extremely bumpy roads... So I'm concerned now.


Larry

4

General Discussion / Re: Black tank flush

« on: July 12, 2025, 10:53:40 pm »

Sorry to hear it didn't work,,, twice.  . I never thought about hard water chalking them up.


Yes, I'm looking forward to the rally in Natchez this fall. See you then!


Larry

5

General Discussion / Re: Black tank flush

« on: July 12, 2025, 01:26:05 pm »

I'm curious,,, did that unclog your flush jets?

6

General Discussion / Re: PC Super C Coming

« on: June 20, 2025, 12:44:56 am »

Agreed.. Many thanks for sharing. Did you notice that the F cab was not a cut away and it had a bench seat?  I would think the super C cab would be open to the coach,,, so now I'm wondering who cuts it open? And when?  Seems like it would cause extra cost to get a bench seat for an F chassis and then throw away so much.


My 2 cents here,,, if I were to upgrade to Super C, I would do it for the hauling capacity and get a toy hauling version that had a garage big enough to CARRY a small electric car.  I don't want to tow a vehicle and it would be nice to have the freedom of a car to go sightseeing without breaking camp. With that said... I don't think an F series chassis is ENOUGH of an improvement to enable a toy hauler. I hope I'm proven wrong.


Larry

7

General Discussion / Re: Fabric on the slide out ceiling

« on: June 17, 2025, 02:51:21 pm »

I've not encountered this issue, but I think I would try a spray adhesive that they use for automobile headliners....


You use the push button and tube approach that is on a can of WD40 instead of the traditional spray button. You poke a hole in the carpet with an ice pick, then insert the tube in the hole and spray glue in a few different directions. Just short taps needed. May need to do this in several places if a lot of it is sagging.  Once glue is in place press a board against the carpet, lightly wedge it in place with a brace and let it dry.


Larry

8

General Discussion / RV Travel: RV inspector recommends the best older motorhome brands

« on: June 13, 2025, 12:23:01 am »

Phoenix Cruiser made it on this short list.


https://www.rvtravel.com/video-rv-inspector-recommends-older-motorhome-brands-2665/


Larry

9

General Discussion / Re: 2023 2552 Heater Not Igniting

« on: May 30, 2025, 04:42:08 pm »

This question has been lingering in the back of my mind.  I dug up the installion manual for an atwood furnace and noticed on the wiring diagram that there is a circuit breaker inside the furnace.  Right, who knew?


I also see that item "D" is located on the outer housing of the blower motor. I can't confirm if "D" is the breaker, but following the lines on the 2 diagrams leads me to think they might be the same.  Either way, take a look for a circuit breaker inside the furnace. I would think it is visible once you remove the outer door.
See attached pics.
Larry

10

General Discussion / Re: 2023 2552 Heater Not Igniting

« on: May 28, 2025, 11:53:42 am »

You've got me wondering which 12v fuse my furnace is on. I doubt if it is on the tank heater fuse (the top one) ,,, as those heat pads can use a lot of amps. So I'm betting it is on a fuse for the lights... And it is likely to be on which ever side/end of the coach it resides since there isn't a dedicated fuse.  I've got to check my 2900 in storage anyway this week. I'll let you know what I find. I think the easiest way will be to
A. Make sure my furnace will start and then shut it off.
B. Remove one of the fuses for the lights and try the furnace again to see if it fails.
C. Repeat for the next fuse, and the next...


Somewhere in this process I'll find which one supports it. I'll let you know.

Larry

11

General Discussion / Re: Black tank flush

« on: May 26, 2025, 02:03:06 pm »

Thanks Ron!


Btw, are you going to the PC Reunion this September in Vidalia/Natchez?   I'm planning on being there.. Looking forward to meeting everyone and putting some faces to the forum names.


Larry

12

General Discussion / Re: 2023 2552 Heater Not Igniting

« on: May 25, 2025, 01:44:18 am »

I looked through all of my documents and diagrams but I don't see a separate 12 volt fuse for my furnace.  So I took out the drawers over the furnace to get a better look and the wire going to it is the same color as the one for all of the lights on the rear  of the RV.  So I suspect it is just one more thing on that fuse.


This may be an obvious question, but do your 12 volt lights work? And, can you see the 12 volt wire to your furnace and is it the same color as one connected to a fuse for your lighting (on whatever side of the rv it is) ?


Here's what I have for my 2900D. But no guarantee yours is the same. (sorry)
1st fuse is for tank heaters (red wire).
2nd fuse is drivers side and bathroom vent fan  (red wire)
3rd fuse is passenger side and front vent fan (blue wire)
4th fuse is rear and rear vent fan (yellow, wire).  This yellow wire appears to go to my furnace as well. Since my furnace is in a small area under the main closet and I have a ceramic blanket on it, it's not easy to see.


Larry

13

General Discussion / Re: Black tank flush

« on: May 25, 2025, 01:26:42 am »

I'd say about a quarter to a third cup in 25 gallons should be good.  If you put too much in you'll need to repeatedly rinse it.


Btw, I usually use and have best results with BLUE Dawn. I've used green and it doesnt seem to be as effective. I've also used the PRO BLUE Dawn (from Sam's Club). Meh. I think normal BLUE works best.

Larry

14

General Discussion / Re: Black tank flush

« on: May 23, 2025, 02:38:02 pm »

I like to follow Ron's black tank cleaning routine, and rotate between bleach, Dawn dish soap and an enzyme tank cleaner. I figure one of them will attack what the other one does not.   My deviation is that while I have the tank about half to two thirds full, I go for a 30 minute drive. I take a route with lots of turns and bumps to shake it up. That adds some kenetic energy in the tank. That sloshing can really loosen stuff up.


Sometimes I do this routine the day I am headed out on a trip to a park that's close to home.  Then just dump it out on arrival.


My PC is now 15 years old...  Got Clean tanks and the flush nozzles work like new.


Larry

15

General Discussion / Re: Black tank flush

« on: May 23, 2025, 01:10:12 am »

GARMP, that's an interesting question.


Here are my thoughts.
1. The flush water line to the black tank could be clogged or kinked. If my memory is right, mine is reinforced vinyl hose. It is screwed on to the black tank flush valve and I can see it all the way to the side of the black tank. I'm sure every PC model is different, but hopefully yours is similar. Being that it is flexible you could lie under the RV and trace the hose end to end. If no crimp kinks are visible, you might need to disconnect it from both ends and verify that it is not clogged.  You might even be able to see through it... I think mine is somewhat clear. You might be able to see water, bubbles or the clog.


2. The valve for the black tank could be clogged... While you have the hose off see if water passes thru it.


3. The spinner nozzle inside your black tank is clogged...   That would be the worst case. If it is, then it might be clogged inside the nozzle, or it could be covered with solids inside the tank.  This is going to require cleaning the tank or possibly replacing the nozzle.


Maybe other forum members have some alternate theories. For your sake I hope it turns out to be the 1st or 2nd situation.


Larry