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1

General Discussion / Re: Step stabilizer

« on: September 08, 2026, 07:01:43 pm »

Makes sense. As you mentioned,,, I would then make sure that the support is barely touching/lifting when empty. There's a bit of play in the slots that the step slides in and out on... Lifting to the point that it is touching the tops of the slots would eliminate that wobble or "play". I just wouldn't want the step to be supporting the coach. The geometry of the step wasn't likely to be designed for that.


It would be worth chatting with the factory and discussing the way they weld the step to the frame and get their thoughts.  I've looked at it several times from the perspective of where does it hang (from the floor cross bars that float above the Ford chassis frame, and attached to the door frame), and how could I add a step light. I gave up on installing a light IN the step box as it is really heavy steel and I didn't feel up to the challenge of drilling thru it. (I ended up putting the light in the end wall of the cabinet.)


Please post your findings... This is an interesting topic!


Larry

2

General Discussion / Re: Step stabilizer

« on: September 08, 2026, 02:18:08 pm »

Hi Wideglide,


I don't use them.   Like the supports they sell to go under slides, they impose forces again the step (or slide) at the points where it is connected to the PC, not just when you enter/exit the coach... but impressed twist forces when you walk around the coach, or when wind blows the PC. This causes more damage and wear than just using the step.  I think the slide supports get more chatter because people have more problems with slides, but same principle,


Even if you have the HWH levelers there is still a little bit of motion between the coach and the ground... This step stabilizer it going to hold the step rigid and fight the coach motion.



The better approach is to be kind to your steps and not stomp on them,,, just walk in and out. I weigh more than 200lbs and my PC is 16 years old. The steps are still firmly welded to the frame. No wiggle.


Larry

3

General Discussion / Re: The ‘KEY’

« on: September 08, 2026, 02:06:28 pm »

I've not heard of a factory provided usb library. I suspect the original owner made that for you, or more likely for his/her own use  and then let it for the next owners.


I did a similar thing using different media. I have a folder on my Google drive with the owners manuals (to PC products and most everything else I take with in the PC).  I just don't save videos, though. I marked it as "make valuable offline". Google now synchronizes that folder to a SD-TF chip in my tablet.


I've published the link elsewhere in this forum, but here's a fresh copy.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1MgYR7L0OgWyMdnFdayno2hSIg-TqxyV7
Everyone in the forum has read access.


Larry

4

General Discussion / Re: Trix - L - Start

« on: August 29, 2026, 12:09:58 pm »

Disclaimer, I've never seen one of these, but a quick search in Google offers this advice for the beeping...



Common Causes and Fixes

Low Starting Battery:
Your chassis battery voltage may have dropped below the warning threshold (typically under 11.9V), signaling that it is heavily discharged or failing.

Loose or Corroded Connections: Dirt, corrosion, or loose ring terminals on the house, chassis, or ground wires can interrupt the charging flow and trigger a false or low-voltage alarm.

House Charger Failure: If your shore power converter or solar setup is not actively charging the house bank, the system cannot maintain the starting battery.

I see that it has some indicator lights. Which ones are on?

5

General Discussion / Re: Water heater

« on: August 29, 2026, 01:30:07 am »

Feel free to ask questions. Putting in the suburban was a bit difficult, but not impossible. I've had no problems with it since.


I think it performs better than the original... But then again, I insulated the new one better. It's so quiet I have trouble hearing it inside the coach.


Larry

6

General Discussion / Re: Unknown Switches on Dash

« on: August 27, 2026, 05:49:23 pm »

Thank you Mike!


I've never seen any one post the correct way to use the white button. Very interesting how it wil stay on.


Thanks.

7

General Discussion / Re: Water heater

« on: August 27, 2026, 05:45:53 pm »

I put in a suburban and a full write up is here:
https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=5089.msg45549#msg45549

8

General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself!

« on: August 27, 2026, 05:44:19 pm »

Hi, I replied to this earlier , but looking back I don't see my posting so it must have not saved. I can remember when I first joined the forum I got the same prompts. But I think it finally went away one day when I logged off and log back on and and clicked a checkbox that was labeled to click here to stay signed on.

9

General Discussion / Re: Unknown Switches on Dash

« on: August 27, 2026, 09:02:42 am »

Is that the only white momentary switch on the lower panel of the dash?  If so, then that button is used in the process of jump starting your Ford engine should that battery be drained. As long as you hold the button a relay kicks in and allows coach batteries to charge up the Ford battery.  Notice I didn't call it a jump start button, as the size of the wire is not large enough for a quick jump start... It takes a minute or two for the Ford battery to charge up enough to start the engine.


If this is an additional momentary button, I don't know what it would be. Trading the wires would be required.



The red button may require some tracing of the wires. If I were to guess, it is likely a master On/Off switch for the entry step. In the off position the step won't move. This is useful for many situations...  Keep them in. Keep them out. Reduce wear and tear from extra cycles. Safer to work on them knowing they're not going to move ant cut off your fingers during a repair or lubrication, etc etc.  I added one for this very reason.


Another guess would be a secondary power for the Garmin/stereo... But usually that is not an On/Off switch. Instead it is a On/On switch with one position providing power from the Ford battery and the other position providing power from the coach battery.   Look on the back side of the red switch and see how many wires are attached. On/Off would have only 2 wires,,, not 3.  If 3 then the middle one will go to the device being powered and the other 2 go to the power sources.   There could be a short looped wire in the situation from one post to another for the light... Don't include that in the count. Just count the wires that connect to the switch and go into the dash.




Larry

10

General Discussion / Re: Radio upgrade

« on: August 25, 2026, 10:16:54 pm »

LOL... Quite sure it's a 2008 chassis. My unit was built during the RV recession. The chassis sat "homeless" for a couple years before the original owners ordered it in 2010.   The 2008 chassis was dusted off, run thru the Phoenix assembly line and completed Fall of 2010.


So my title says 2008 since it is a Ford VIN number, but everything above and behind the cab is 2 years newer.  My insurance company, like Phoenix USA in Elkhart, sees it as a 2010.


As for the questions, I'm planning on buying a full android with 10 inch touch screen. I want a single 12 volt device to drive all audio, visual, navigation, Android Auto, in the RV.  It's easier on the power usage than 120v equipment, and built sturdier than home electronics, so it can handle the road abuse.  I also plan to install an infrared thermal camera volt in the front grill for safer night driving, which makes the large screen even more vital.   I feel that as long as there is a remote, my step can be in the dash just as easy as in an upper cabinet. I was hoping you found that e450 radio connections were the same as F450,,, or something simple like that.  Many electronics specs are quick to announce compatibility with F series trucks,,, but never mention E series. 

11

General Discussion / Re: Radio upgrade

« on: August 24, 2026, 06:29:46 pm »

I'm in a similar place, but with the slightly older chassis (2008). I greatly appreciate the links you provided, albeit they are likely to not fit my older PC and dash unit.  I know others with the new Ford will appreciate them more!


I do have a few more generic questions.


1. The Red Wolf wiring adapter listing doesn't mention Ford e450 compatibility. How did you know they would work?  I'm not finding a lot of options for wiring compatibility as well and am wondering if you asked an expert or the manufacturer, or?


2. What was the scale of the effort to remove the old unit? Did it pull out of the dash easily? I've been looking at mine and I think it should come out once I insert a tool on each side to release catch pins. And since I can remove the engine dog house I can see "most" of the contract points. But I don't want to be too optimistic.


3. Did you consider a 3 way switch so the unit could be dual powered? i.e. Ford-off-Coach. I want to get 12 volt from the Ford side while driving and from the PC side when parked. That way I don't drain the Ford battery while camping and I don't need an ignition key hanging all the time.


4. Where did you mount the GPS antenna?   Since most the the dash is metal, I've considered mounting it in the fiberglass cap to ensure good reception.


Again, thanks for the details. I'm looking forward to hearing how it work in your next roar trip.


Larry

12

General Discussion / Re: SUB

« on: August 08, 2026, 03:31:38 pm »

This all sounded familiar so I did some hunting.


Check out this old thread as there are pictures that match yours, but WITH the sub woofer.


Hope this helps.


https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=4677.msg41920#msg41920


Larry

13

General Discussion / Re: Battery capacity gage

« on: August 05, 2026, 03:16:03 pm »

I'm probably not the right person to reply here, as I replaced everything with Victron and lithium (800AH) and added solar (2.3KW on the roof & 800W on the ground), but here are my thoughts for what they are worth...


The invertors and convertors only last about 10 years. They either wear out from usage, heat or age... Plus or minus a few years... And your mileage will vary...


My invertor degraded to the point 1700 watts was its peak (no longer 2000W} and the microwave over heated it.  The convertor was slow to charge my batteries and wasn't doing anything to extend their lives and its fan was extremely loud. .


So where am I going?  I initially thought I would replace each box as it quit, but it's not easy finding equipment that is compatible with older stuff while also "future proofed" to be compatible with modern power technologies. And then I realized that if I didn't stick with a single brand I would soon have displays and buttons on every wall.


I was ultimately going to need to replace the AGM batteries again that year, as well as everything under fridge. My battery tray rusted out and the batteries dropped to the ground while I was adding water... That was the final straw, TBH.  It was then I decided to make that big step. .


It's a serious question to consider. Continue with lead acid batteries and old technology, maybe another 3 years..  or switch to lithium/solar/modern invertor&convertor. I now have a single touchscreen on the wall. Full control also on my phone/laptop/tablet. Batteries that will last 10+years. The ability to boondock for a long as I can carry enough water.  Oh, and no noisy fan keeping me awake at night.


I'm not suggesting to rush in and replace everything.  But it was the right decision for me as I plan to retire very soon, travel a lot, boondock more often, do repairs less often and never maintain another battery.


Larry

14

General Discussion / Re: Maiden voyage trip

« on: August 03, 2026, 06:47:22 pm »

Congrats on the first cruiser-cation.

Sorry to hear it wasn't event-less, but now you have a story to laugh about one evening around the fire pit.

A couple things caught my attention. The mix of cabinet door latches is unusual. The black hook style are original, and the roller pairs are not... Personally, I think the black hooks don't seem to last long, so I keep spares on board at all times. They also tend to pop back into their housing and you need a skinny screwdriver and needle nose pliers to pull it back out into the ready-to-hook position. Their strength is that they hold well and doors don't magically open while driving. If you buy replacements, you need to match size and hook spring strength (stronger spring requires more force to open).

The prior owner of my rig put a couple of the double roller catches on the silverware drawer. Even with 2, it's the one drawer that opens on hard right turns. I forgive it, as it is also the most used drawer in the rig. ... And slight heel of the steering wheel closes it back up.

Something to think about as you decide.


The AC freezing up is a lack of air flow as you deduced.  It can also be caused by a freeze sensor falling off the evaporator coils. It needs to be in the coils to throttle the AC automatically and let it melt off before totally freezing over.

There are 2 ways to get to this sensor. On the roof via opening the AC shroud and evaporator air chamber...

And the easiest way thru the bottom. You need to take off the inside cover (screws visible & accessible after taking out the air filters... There are other msg threads here that dive into the details) . Then, with the Air conditioner 20amp breaker off, you can reach up into the air intake hole and put the freeze sensor back into place. It has a wire zig zag clip that needs to be pressed between the coils.

But... Unless you know the last time the AC coils were cleaned I would invest the time to clean them or hire someone to do it.  The evaporator and condensator coils accumulate dust, fuzz, insects, pollen, spider webs, maybe even mold,,, and that all reduces the air flow and increases noise.  I do it every fall after heavy sunset usage. I sometimes do it in the spring as well, especially after some really dusty destinations.  There are threads on this as well.

For you are cleaning look for air leaks. Collapsed insulation that needs replaced or augmented. Dirt in the drain holes. Loose wires that wiggle & rattle while the AC is ON... anything that can make noise.

I'm including a couple pics of the freeze sensor.


Looking at the age of your PC and since you just acquired it, I would wonder if the coils have been cleaned well and recently.  When mine are clean it never freezes up.

Larry

15

General Discussion / Re: Tires for your consideration

« on: July 28, 2026, 01:39:17 pm »

VERY INTERESTING!


The 3 brands of tires I've had the most problems with in my ~50 years years of driving are all in the same group!


Thank you for the details,
Larry