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1

General Discussion / Re: 3 Different 6V Batteries At Sams Club, November 2025

« on: November 25, 2025, 05:56:18 pm »

I must agree... I just searched for the batteries and the findings are blank now.


However it suggests links to their 6v batteries as items that I have previously viewed.  So I don't know why they are not offered as an official finding unless they pulled them from thru catalog.


Here's a copy of the links. If you copy paste them in a browser they works... Or at least 5 min ago they did.



https://www.samsclub.com/ip/duracell-agm-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc2agm/13857573929


https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-egc2/prod3590220


https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc8/prod3590217


https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc2/prod3590228




Larry

2

General Discussion / Re: 3 Different 6V Batteries At Sams Club, November 2025

« on: November 22, 2025, 01:59:36 pm »

I did some poking around on the sams web site. Initially it didn't show these batteries... Until I searched for "golf cart battery" and then all 3 appeared.


A member can order them and pick them up at the service desk.  It says there are not eligible for home delivery. (and you must initially pay for the typical refundable core exchange fee).


I did some random sams locations (Seattle, San Diego, Miami, Boston), i.e. the 4 corners, and I got the same price, so it appears to be a nation wide price.


I know that doesn't help if you need them "now". But, if you plan ahead you should be low to get these.


Larry

3

General Discussion / Re: Norcold bankruptcy and sale

« on: November 21, 2025, 07:20:32 pm »

Just a bit more info on this topic... Looks like there will be a new owner to keep the company afloat.


https://usaherald.com/norcold-filed-for-chapter-11-bankruptcy/


Larry

4

General Discussion / Norcold bankruptcy and sale

« on: November 12, 2025, 03:14:49 pm »

I saw this on today's news and felt it was worth posting here.


Norcold is filing chapter 11 and potentially being bought.
https://rvbusiness.com/66-year-old-supplier-norcold-files-for-chapter-11-bankruptcy/

5

General Discussion / Re: A PC with rear twin beds

« on: October 29, 2025, 09:39:46 pm »

The wrong floor plan caught my eye too... I also noticed the fireplace on the passenger side transition wall. Interesting! I've only seen that once before, - - maybe 3 or 4 years ago in a sale listing. I think this could be the same PC.


Larry

6

General Discussion / Re: Alternative Fridge?

« on: August 28, 2025, 01:41:50 pm »

Joseph,
A thought occurred to me on your heavy duty wire to provide 12 volts and ground to the replacement... I would search for a "high strand count" cable with silicone (or rubber+silicone) coating. This combination gives the most flexible motion and longest wear life since this needs to move every time the slide goes in and out.   I've done some robotics work in the past decade and this is what they use,,, but much thinner, of course, specifically to endure the motion, vibrations, etc.


The down side is that silicone is slightly more prone to damage so you should consider adding some heat shrink around any spot that might rub something else.


Larry

7

General Discussion / Re: Alternative Fridge?

« on: August 26, 2025, 02:45:45 pm »

Joseph,
I can't contribute any insight on a compressor style refrigerator, and it's an integrating topic that I hope you let know what evolves.  But I can offer some advice on insulation tips that you should do while you have the old refrigerator out and before you put in the new one. I have a lengthy write-up from my refrigerator work here
https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=4820.msg43312#msg43312

In summary, the l top of the refrigerator cabinet really needs to be insulated with large blocks of foamboard. This blocks the heat of the sun beating on the roof, blocks the fridge heat accumulating there and keeps any insects from building nests up there.

The outside wall shouldn't need insulation, but might require different baffles for the new compressor coils. It's much easier to get to that wall while the fridge is out.

The most important places to Insulate are the floor of the back section (between the fridge and outside wall) and the left and right side wall of the back section.  They REALLY need to be insulated. Those boards are very thin.... possibly 1/4 inch thick if they are like mine. Your interior cabin is not very far from the outside air and also not far from the heat generated by the refrigerator. So insulating that left, right, and lower floor in the rear keeps all the refrigerator heat out of the interior of your coach and likewise in the winter it blocks the cold winter air that's back there from entering your coach.   My shower shares a wall with the fridge. It used to get very hot (like a car hood in August!) before I insulated that wall. I also got rid of the cold draft that came out from under the fridge each winter.

One other thing to consider is insulating the back side of the new fridge before it gets installed... I added a half inch to the back side of my norcold. This weekend is was 102F and my freezer stayed at 4 or 5F and the fridge was 34 or 35F... and I had it set only on #4 electric.

Larry

8

General Discussion / Re: Slide out cabinets shaking loose

« on: July 26, 2025, 09:15:52 pm »

I'm curious, were these bolts/screws the ones holding the cabinets to the walls/floor, or somewhere else inside the cabinets?   


It's now a habit to check the drawer slides once a year after noticing one time that my top drawer wouldn't close square because the (filing cabinet style) slide hardware was loose and screws had backed out quite a bit. But(!), I haven't been looking and checking anywhere else and a few times I year I drive through Oklahoma and Arkansas on their extremely bumpy roads... So I'm concerned now.


Larry

9

General Discussion / Re: Black tank flush

« on: July 12, 2025, 10:53:40 pm »

Sorry to hear it didn't work,,, twice.  . I never thought about hard water chalking them up.


Yes, I'm looking forward to the rally in Natchez this fall. See you then!


Larry

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General Discussion / Re: Black tank flush

« on: July 12, 2025, 01:26:05 pm »

I'm curious,,, did that unclog your flush jets?

11

General Discussion / Re: PC Super C Coming

« on: June 20, 2025, 12:44:56 am »

Agreed.. Many thanks for sharing. Did you notice that the F cab was not a cut away and it had a bench seat?  I would think the super C cab would be open to the coach,,, so now I'm wondering who cuts it open? And when?  Seems like it would cause extra cost to get a bench seat for an F chassis and then throw away so much.


My 2 cents here,,, if I were to upgrade to Super C, I would do it for the hauling capacity and get a toy hauling version that had a garage big enough to CARRY a small electric car.  I don't want to tow a vehicle and it would be nice to have the freedom of a car to go sightseeing without breaking camp. With that said... I don't think an F series chassis is ENOUGH of an improvement to enable a toy hauler. I hope I'm proven wrong.


Larry

12

General Discussion / Re: Fabric on the slide out ceiling

« on: June 17, 2025, 02:51:21 pm »

I've not encountered this issue, but I think I would try a spray adhesive that they use for automobile headliners....


You use the push button and tube approach that is on a can of WD40 instead of the traditional spray button. You poke a hole in the carpet with an ice pick, then insert the tube in the hole and spray glue in a few different directions. Just short taps needed. May need to do this in several places if a lot of it is sagging.  Once glue is in place press a board against the carpet, lightly wedge it in place with a brace and let it dry.


Larry

13

General Discussion / RV Travel: RV inspector recommends the best older motorhome brands

« on: June 13, 2025, 12:23:01 am »

Phoenix Cruiser made it on this short list.


https://www.rvtravel.com/video-rv-inspector-recommends-older-motorhome-brands-2665/


Larry

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General Discussion / Re: 2023 2552 Heater Not Igniting

« on: May 30, 2025, 04:42:08 pm »

This question has been lingering in the back of my mind.  I dug up the installion manual for an atwood furnace and noticed on the wiring diagram that there is a circuit breaker inside the furnace.  Right, who knew?


I also see that item "D" is located on the outer housing of the blower motor. I can't confirm if "D" is the breaker, but following the lines on the 2 diagrams leads me to think they might be the same.  Either way, take a look for a circuit breaker inside the furnace. I would think it is visible once you remove the outer door.
See attached pics.
Larry

15

General Discussion / Re: 2023 2552 Heater Not Igniting

« on: May 28, 2025, 11:53:42 am »

You've got me wondering which 12v fuse my furnace is on. I doubt if it is on the tank heater fuse (the top one) ,,, as those heat pads can use a lot of amps. So I'm betting it is on a fuse for the lights... And it is likely to be on which ever side/end of the coach it resides since there isn't a dedicated fuse.  I've got to check my 2900 in storage anyway this week. I'll let you know what I find. I think the easiest way will be to
A. Make sure my furnace will start and then shut it off.
B. Remove one of the fuses for the lights and try the furnace again to see if it fails.
C. Repeat for the next fuse, and the next...


Somewhere in this process I'll find which one supports it. I'll let you know.

Larry