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1

General Discussion / Re: Samsung Stereo

« on: December 12, 2015, 03:38:42 pm »

  😡Bob,  I am also having a similar issue with my new 2015 Samsung home theater system shutting down via the protection mode. The unit typically shuts down after approx. 30 minutes. It appears to me to be an overheating issue due to possible lack of adequate ventilation around the unit inside the cabinet. The unit restarts after a waiting period. I called Samsung and was told that it is a ventilation issue and to move the unit outside the cabinet before possible permanent damage occurs from overheating. I then called the technician at Phoenix factory and he indicated that many units have been installed this way with no overheating issues. After describing my problem he thinks it could be the cooling fan in the unit might not be functioning which I am going to confirm shortly. After reading the Samsung owner manual it states that 4" of clearance should be maintained around the housing which of course is non existant. The tech. told me to confirm fan operation, let him know, and if not operating Phoenix would replace the unit. I will let you know how it turns out.
Anyone else having similar issues let me if and how it got resolved.
John

2

Tips and Tricks / Re: Sold and Sad

« on: October 02, 2015, 12:40:35 pm »

I have enjoyed your posts here on the forum and hope you can continue to post as possible.
Good luck and enjoy life's next chapter.

3

General Discussion / Re: Macerator pump leak and door strut failure

« on: August 27, 2015, 12:51:52 pm »

Hi Mike,
That short piece of clear plastic tubing is to bypass grey water into the black tank by gravity. You might use this feature when you are dry camping and you run out of capacity in the gray tank with no place to dump so you can let the grey water feed over into the black tank through the little hose to you give you more time to use  your grey tank before dumping. I have not used this feature but in looking at my own bypass it would not have worked anyway due to the kink.
I think Sanicon can provide directions on the best use of this function.
Hope this helps. 
John

4

General Discussion / Re: MPG - E450 - four summers

« on: August 27, 2015, 02:11:11 am »

Bruce, Your method is exactly how I use the tow/haul as well. I relied on it heavily on my previous coach and use it the same way on the new PC with great results. 
John

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General Discussion / Re: Macerator pump leak and door strut failure

« on: August 27, 2015, 02:06:35 am »

Bruce,
Thank you for the reply. I will give your suggestion a try. I have actually let the open end dangle over the open inlet without success but have not tried shaking it. I have also tried to empty the hose with both valves open after dumping the tanks hoping that would break the vacuum.
John 

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General Discussion / Re: Macerator pump leak and door strut failure

« on: August 26, 2015, 09:44:19 pm »

One more Sanicon question.  Does anyone know how to empty the discharge hose when done emptying tanks. I have watched the video but have not seen this addressed. I have tried several things but can't break the vacuum on the hose and have to stow while it is full.  Is there a magic technique to empty the hose? Anyone else experience this and how did you overcome it?
John

7

General Discussion / Re: Macerator pump leak and door strut failure

« on: August 26, 2015, 06:57:21 pm »

I checked the grinder pump and door strut alignments and all appears well but while inspecting the grinder pump I noticed the small clear plastic bypass line had a KINK completely closeing off the bypass. The tubing appears to be too long so I removed it, cut a short piece off reinstalled it and when testing it a small leak showed up. At first I thought I may have punctured the pump discharge hose but upon closer inspection I discovered the leak was on the small thread of one of the 90 deg elbow fittings in the bypass line. I removed the bypass line once again, retightened the fitting reassembled and all appears to be well again.  Anybody else ever had an issue the bypass line?
Just one more thing to be mindful of when working around the grinder pump.
I am new to this forum but enjoy the wealth of information as well as the knowledge of the participants. I look forward to each session. 
John

8

Tips and Tricks / Re: Unstable 30AMP Service

« on: August 24, 2015, 11:35:52 am »

Barry, and Mike:  There is another tester I highly recommend for checking presence of a hot skin condition and that is a non contact voltage detector with a sensitivity rating 90--1000volts. The unit shown in my pics below is a Klein NCV-1. It is probably the only accurate way to detect a hot skin accurately short of finding it with your fingers or a serious electrical shock.  It is also available at local hardware stores and on line.
I would also recommend reading chapter 10 in the book I reference in the pics. for more detailed information about this condition.
In the meantime I am going to investigate further to see if I can determine why my Surge Gard did not shut down or detect this condition. I will let you know what I find out.
Thanks for all the great discussion. 

9

Tips and Tricks / Re: Unstable 30AMP Service

« on: August 23, 2015, 03:56:55 pm »

Hi Mike, thanks for the response.  Yes, I have 3 fault readings in memory but I cannot say when they occurred. The thing I do know for sure is that the Surge Gard did not shut down during the incident described. I am very surprised by that! All does seem to be ok with unit. Is there a way you know of to verify?
My unit is located in a compartment under the refrigerator and VERY difficult to get to and I can barely even see it. I wish I had input with PC as to its location. I did ask that it not be wired ahead of the genset but that instruction did not make it to the production line during the build cycle.  Now if the Surge Gard fails, I will not be able to get any power to my rig. I cannot see any easy way to remove the unit if it does ever fail.
Anyway, off track here a little so let me know if you further questions or suggestions
Happy Travels!
Thanks
John

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Tips and Tricks / Re: Unstable 30AMP Service

« on: August 23, 2015, 12:41:08 pm »

Tom, Thanks for the welcome. I am going to attempt to attached some photos of my "special" test equipment that I use to evaluate RV park electrical systems. I have tried to keep it simple and inexpensive as well. As far as the Sure Test GFCI , current, voltage and wiring tester, I have had it for many years using in my home inspection business for several years.  That said, I do not know if it is still available or made under another name. I will investigate and get back to you. As you will see in the attached photos (hopefully), my test arrangement consists of several separate pieces  functioning together along with a separate auto ranging volt meter and non contact voltage indicator.
A very good source of information about this equipment and how to use it can be found in a book titled as shown in one the attached pictures. I think all of this can be purchased at Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware or Amazon. Hope this helps.
John

11

Tips and Tricks / Re: Unstable 30AMP Service

« on: August 22, 2015, 06:42:31 pm »

My wife and I recently returned from PC factory where we picked up our new 2910T from the wonderful staff.  We stayed a week in the area, had a successful shakedown cruise and then headed out to St. Louis, Omaha and then home to Montana. While stopping the night in South Dakota I broke from my usual routine of checking the campground power pedastal with my special " Sure Test" Instrument and voltage meter. This setup allows me to verify correct voltage, current and wiring prior to plugging in my coach. Since I ordered my Cruiser with a hard wired Surge Gard, I just plugged in without my usual test routine. I waited the 128 second delay built into the Surge Gard and the unit let power through to the coach indicating no electrical issues or so I thought!

On one of my trips in and out of the coach during setup I noticed a "tingle" on my finger tips when I briefly touched the metal door lock. Not good, so I reached for my NON CONTACT voltage detector and found at least 50 volts at every metal point I could touch around the exterior which told me I had unwanted voltage on my coach frame. Becoming very alarmed, I immediately unplugged from the campground pedistal and checked it with my "special" tester. When I plug in this testor I expect to see all green lights indicating all is well but it showed one yellow light indicating some type of ground fault which, to my surprise, was not picked up by the Surge Gard. Next I moved my "special " tester to the pedistal in the vacant space next to mine since they were back to back. These outlets tested satisfactory and then I plugged in my coach power and all was well. Sorry for the length of this post but safety is the issue here and if others can benefit then it is worth the effort.  I consider this "tingling" effect to be potentially a very dangerous condition and if found should be immediately addressed by unplugging and relocating. At any rate, I am going back to my routine of checking ALL pedestals with my "special" tester before I plug my coach at any unknown power source since my Surge Gard did not indicate this issue.
To everyone, I recommend the use of a volt meter, Sure Test indicator and non contact voltage tester everytime you hook up.  Protect yourself and your rig from this danger lurking unseen at some RV parks. By the way, as soon as I found this condition, I reported it to the park management so it could be corrected before the next traveler uses it. 
Safe travels to all.

John

12

General Discussion / Re: Phoenix Cruiser sighhtings

« on: July 24, 2015, 08:21:02 pm »

Hello to the PC owners who were in the McDonalds parking lot in Newport, Washington on 7/8/15.
 

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General Discussion / Re: Single A/C vs. Dual A/C

« on: July 20, 2015, 07:16:56 pm »

Joseph, 
   I have a Coleman Mach ducted unit in a 2008 Melbourne 29D and it is what I consider very noisy.
I will be picking up my new Phoenix Cruiser 2910T on 8/3/2105 and I think I may miss the ducted unit.
I like the way the cool air is spread throughout the unit when ducted.  Not ever owning a direct flow unit, I am concerned about cooling the rear of the coach and after viewing this post the noise could also be a factor.   
Anyone have thoughts on this!

John