Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: Joseph on December 04, 2020, 08:26:48 pm
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I have a 2011 E450 and it's time to change the rear differential Fluid. Does anyone know where I can locate the information as to which Differential it has? Theres a couple possibilities and I don't see it on the differential. Is there a label somewhere or a secret decoder ring that might divulge the info?
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I have a 2011 E450 and it's time to change the rear differential Fluid. Does anyone know where I can locate the information as to which Differential it has? Theres a couple possibilities and I don't see it on the differential. Is there a label somewhere or a secret decoder ring that might divulge the info?
Try the door sticker?
https://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech-articles/identify-your-ford-truck-axle-from-the-door-sticker/
Tag number on axle?
https://www.differentials.com/technical-help-2/differential-identification/
My Ford door sticker says I have a '52' and that crosses to a Dana 70 HD 7400# 4.10 Ratio. Found a couple other charts and they agreed FWIW.
But the PC sticker I have says I have a 7800# rear axle rating. I am not gonna lose any sleep over that, but imagine it will spike alarm from others.
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A dealer can lookup that information for you via the VIN number. You can do it yourself via the VIN on the Ford parts website also (not an auto parts store).
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Volk, thanks, no tag on mine. I won’t lose sleep over having one or another. There are three options and two diff lube requirements and that’s where I want to get it right .
Don. Using the VIN, Your probably right, that’s the secret decoder ring when all else fails.
Thank you both!
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Volk, thanks, no tag on mine. I won’t lose sleep over having one or another. There are three options and two diff lube requirements and that’s where I want to get it right .
Don. Using the VIN, Your probably right, that’s the secret decoder ring when all else fails.
Thank you both!
Did you not have a door sticker?? I have not even looked to see if I have a tag. Vin should work, dunno. My sources all said door sticker was the #1, then axle tag as a backup.
The sticker SHOULD be located in the drivers door jamb. Its a Ford factory sticker and should never be removed or defaced.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50682810353_6d7c9dcc4b_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50683644812_8ce5a4cd3d_b.jpg)
EDIT - Very Odd. Tried https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/vindecoder.php and the VIN for the PC shows as invalid. My other truck (a nissan!) works fine. Tried https://driving-tests.org/vin-decoder/ and the PC VIN worked. (WH) No axle info, however.
EDIT2 - Evidently rear axle is not a VIN specified thing. I did not know that.
Vehicle Descriptor Section
Characters four through eight represent the model, body type, restraint system, transmission type, and engine code. The ninth character is a security code that authenticates the VIN.
(https://vincheck.info/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/Free-VIN-Decoder.jpg)
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Volk, so I called quick lane (connected to ford dealership) they advised SAE 90 gear lube. It takes a little over a gallon. I’m at 63,000 miles. Being I tow and it’s heavy as it is I look at it as preventative maintenance to change it out . I intended to do it at 60,000 miles but stuff keeps side tracking me. Heck sometimes I walk out to the garage and then can’t remember what I went looking for.
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Volk, so I called quick lane (connected to ford dealership) they advised SAE 90 gear lube. It takes a little over a gallon. I’m at 63,000 miles. Being I tow and it’s heavy as it is I look at it as preventative maintenance to change it out . I intended to do it at 60,000 miles but stuff keeps side tracking me. Heck sometimes I walk out to the garage and then can’t remember what I went looking for.
Great! Glad that is resolved.
You might want to, I add a 'moly' type additive (Molybdenum disulfide) to gear oil. (GEAR oil, Not the engine oil)
Less friction, and I believe it is beneficial. Down side is that it changes the oil to black/very dark brown so when checked later it has a 'burnt' appearance and may cause alarm if checked by an unknowing party.
I happen to use the Kimball Midwest version, but have used many other types. :)(:
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I use full synthetic 75/140 gear lube, superb substitute for straight 90 weight
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Thanks guys, much appreciated. I use synthetic in my jeep already so I’ll prob go that route. I hadn’t planned on going straight old school 90. Not that it wouldn’t work just think synthetic or like Volk mentioned adding to the base.