Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: Tom B on March 18, 2019, 11:44:41 am
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Hi,
Just checked on my coach and the batteries are dead...plugged into 110, green light is on the power cord, and coach power switch is on. I thought the coach would stay charged while plugged in?
Tom
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Were you plugged into 30amp service or something less? How long in storage? Did you have any other appliance on during storage? Check water in battery/s and finally do your house lights work while plugged in.? Do lights work with generator power, cranking the truck may allow you to start genny. Sorry i cant be of any help but answering those questions would be a start.
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Tom,
SwiftBoot is right. Really need more information to be of any help on this issue. You're correct that with the coach plugged in to good AC and the power switch ON, your coach batteries should have been receiving a charge voltage from your converter. If they are in fact dead, there are several possibilities but it's impossible to speculate without more info. If you don't hit on the problem yourself, provide as much other information as you can about what your electrical system is doing or not doing and I know everyone will try to assist.
All the best, Mike
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More info,
- I plugged into 110v 15 receptacle. When at home, which is only a day or two before we leave somewhere, when the coach is plugged into a 20amp GFI, something in the coach trips the breaker. I went through and shut off each breaker one at a time and leave the one off that was tripping the GFI. I can not read the hand writing on the breaker panel, but think it may be one of the two inverter breakers...if that is true how would the batteries charge???
- been in heated storage since mid-Sept of last year
- everything is off in the coach, main power switch to the coach (the on/off) switch down low by the exit step
- I stopped in once per moth to start and run the generator...but earlier this week I went to start it and there was no juice at all to even turn it over.
- the battery charge indicator light shows that they are dead.
- when I start the truck of course the batteries show full charge as they are running off from the truck alternator.
- I checked the batteries and they were way low on water...had to add two 16oz bottles of water to each one. I now have the coacknunplugged from the 110v 15amp receptacle, and have a smart charger on the batteries...which is what I was going to do in the first place but asssumed the coach would charge them if I simply plugged it in.
- per another post on this forum I wonder now if it was the “single stage” inverter/charger that was supplied with the coach, and cooked the batteries as they were very low on water?
So I wonder if it has to do with the breaker in the coach (the one just left of the main) that I need to shut off in order to plug this into a standard 15 or 20 amp breaker to keep the GFI from tripping, or the single stage inverter/charger cooked the batteries?
Again, thought this was simply plug the coach into you garage receptacle and the batteries would stay charged?
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With your PC being a 2018, it seems strange that the converter/charger would only be single stage. You’ll have to read up on that either from the manuals that came with the RV or by looking up your converter model number online. You could go to the manufacturer’s website or try Bestconverters.com
If you can confirm that the circuit for the charger is tripping the breaker in your house, then I think you have found the problem. If all the 110v breakers in the RV are off and turning on the charger trips your house breaker then it appears that the charger is faulty.
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I did look up my inverter and it is a Xantrex PRO XM 1800, I looked it up and it is multi stage.
When I plug this coach into a 20amp GFI receptacle something in the coach trips the GFI, so I shut off each breaker in the coach one by one to find out which one is tripping the GFI. Turns out it’s the breaker left of the main labeled “Inverter Power”, the breaker to the right of the main is labeled “20A Main Inverter” and that one can stay on without tripping the GFI.
Tom
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I looked up your inverter on the Xantrex web site and that model is only an inverter. It is not an inverter/charger as some models are.
As you already know, inverters provide 110v power without being connected to shore power or running a generator. When connected to shore power you don’t need to run the inverter because you already have 110v power. There should be a switch to turn the inverter on and off. That could be why the breaker trips in the house.
Since the inverter does not have charging capability, there will be a converter/ charger in your RV which provides 12v power and battery charging when plugged in to shore power. If your batteries are boiling dry, it seems the charger might be faulty. In my RV the converter/charger is in the same compartment that the 110v breakers and 12v fuses are. It is right below them. Not sure where it will be in your rig. Others with more modern rigs will have to help out from here.
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Again it appears there is a fault with the inverter/converter. In another post you indicated a trip later planned later this month. If possible, I would try to go to local rv park and plug into 30 amp service to see if that might be the problem. Like you I plug up to a 20amp garage service before a trip but don't have your problems. It would be a non-starter if your batteries went dead while on your trip considering the fridge will require 12v to operate as well as other 12v systems in your coach. Just sayin...it might just be the gif that is causing the snafu.
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I looked up your inverter on the Xantrex web site and that model is only an inverter. It is not an inverter/charger as some models are.
As you already know, inverters provide 110v power without being connected to shore power or running a generator. When connected to shore power you don’t need to run the inverter because you already have 110v power. There should be a switch to turn the inverter on and off. That could be why the breaker trips in the house.
Since the inverter does not have charging capability, there will be a converter/ charger in your RV which provides 12v power and battery charging when plugged in to shore power. If your batteries are boiling dry, it seems the charger might be faulty. In my RV the converter/charger is in the same compartment that the 110v breakers and 12v fuses are. It is right below them. Not sure where it will be in your rig. Others with more modern rigs will have to help out from here.
I see that now, it does say inverter, not inverter/charger...I don’t see any literature for another inverter/charger so I’ll have to go look. Actually we do use the inverter at times when on shore power as there are certain receptacles (TV, below sink, bath, and one outside that are only powered by the inverter)...I think?
Tom
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I did look up my inverter and it is a Xantrex PRO XM 1800, I looked it up and it is multi stage.
When I plug this coach into a 20amp GFI receptacle something in the coach trips the GFI, so I shut off each breaker in the coach one by one to find out which one is tripping the GFI. Turns out it’s the breaker left of the main labeled “Inverter Power”, the breaker to the right of the main is labeled “20A Main Inverter” and that one can stay on without tripping the GFI.
Tom
Tom, I will try possibly provide a more complete reply, but let me jump in here with one clarification:
There is some confusion in the above messages between the "inverter" and the "converter". They are two different items located in two different places. Your Xantrex PRO XM 1800 "inverter", as John (TNcanuck) said, does NOT incorporate a battery charger. The function of the inverter is only to change 12 volt DC power from the batteries to 120 volt AC power to operate some of your AC outlets when you are not hooked to shore power and do not have the generator running. The built-in battery charger in your rig is located in the "converter-charger" which in your 2018 2552 should be located under the passenger-side bed--it is essentially in the same unit that houses your AC breakers and 12 volt fuses.
If you can verify from your documents or from the unit whether you have a Parallax converter-charger or a Progressive Dynamics converter-charger, it would be useful. I'm not sure precisely when Phoenix made the change, but I know that at least some (all?) of the model units built in 2017 had the Parallax converters and at least some (all?) of the model units built in 2018 (and later) had the PD converter. As you read in the other thread that you mentioned and posted to, the Parallax unit utilizes a single-stage charger which is less forgiving when charging you battery, while the PD unit incorporates a 3-stage charger which is less apt to damage a flooded battery by boiling out the electrolyte. The fact that your batteries were extremely low on water doesn't absolutely mean that you have the Parallax unit, but I would try to determine that for sure for future reference.
I'm going to get this posted, but will see if I can provide better information, with a little more time to review.
All the best, Mike
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I just thought of something else.
When you don’t need 110v power from the inverter (that is, when on shore power or generator) you should always turn the inverter off. The reason is, inverters draw current from the batteries whenever they are on. So they could deplete the batteries if left on long enough.
The 110v outlets are powered when on shore power. When not connected to shore power you can power some of the outlets via the inverter. The tv outlet, one at the kitchen, one in the bathroom and one outside. The remaining outlets will not have power from the inverter.
So there’s no need to run the inverter while on shore power.
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I did look up my inverter and it is a Xantrex PRO XM 1800, I looked it up and it is multi stage.
When I plug this coach into a 20amp GFI receptacle something in the coach trips the GFI, so I shut off each breaker in the coach one by one to find out which one is tripping the GFI. Turns out it’s the breaker left of the main labeled “Inverter Power”, the breaker to the right of the main is labeled “20A Main Inverter” and that one can stay on without tripping the GFI.
Tom
Tom, I will try possibly provide a more complete reply, but let me jump in here with one clarification:
There is some confusion in the above messages between the "inverter" and the "converter". They are two different items located in two different places. Your Xantrex PRO XM 1800 "inverter", as John (TNcanuck) said, does NOT incorporate a battery charger. The function of the inverter is only to change 12 volt DC power from the batteries to 120 volt AC power to operate some of your AC outlets when you are not hooked to shore power and do not have the generator running. The built-in battery charger in your rig is located in the "converter-charger" which in your 2018 2552 should be located under the passenger-side bed--it is essentially in the same unit that houses your AC breakers and 12 volt fuses.
If you can verify from your documents or from the unit whether you have a Parallax converter-charger or a Progressive Dynamics converter-charger, it would be useful. I'm not sure precisely when Phoenix made the change, but I know that at least some (all?) of the model units built in 2017 had the Parallax converters and at least some (all?) of the model units built in 2018 (and later) had the PD converter. As you read in the other thread that you mentioned and posted to, the Parallax unit utilizes a single-stage charger which is less forgiving when charging you battery, while the PD unit incorporates a 3-stage charger which is less apt to damage a flooded battery by boiling out the electrolyte. The fact that your batteries were extremely low on water doesn't absolutely mean that you have the Parallax unit, but I would try to determine that for sure for future reference.
I'm going to get this posted, but will see if I can provide better information, with a little more time to review.
All the best, Mike
Yes I was confused on that...I thought there was one unit, an Inverter and converter-charger. I took apart the passenger side bed and found the Xantrex PRO XM 1800 Inverter. Regarding the Parallax converter-charger you refer to...do you mean the Parallax “5300 Series Power Center”? It sits below the breaker panel? Yes I have that. I bought the rig used, but believe it was an early build...
The fuses on that Parallex panel are LP Detector & Monitor, Slide Switch, Tank Heater, Driver (Power bed?), Passenger (Power bed?), Rear, Pump, Refrige & water heater, Awning & TV. So I assumed this unit converted AC to DC, and was a distribution center to the mentioned circuits?
Remember I need to switch off the breaker the Inverter Power breaker in order to plug in the 110v in my garage...else I trip my GFI. But now that the inverter and converter-charger are different units...does the “Microwave &Converter” breaker power the Parallax, if so that one is on when I am plugged in.
Clear as mud,
Tom
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Yes, the breaker labeled microwave and converter control those two items. A converter changes 120v AC into 12v DC. So when you are connected to shore power or the generator, it’s the converter supplying 12v to the DC items, instead of the battery. So the 12v systems such as the water pump, the lights, fantastic fan, control board for the fridge are all 12v and run off either the battery or the converter. The converter needs AC to work.
The inverter does exactly the opposite of the converter. It takes 12v DC from the batteries and produces 120v AC power.
It turns out your rig has a separate inverter (Xantrex) plus the usual converter/charger (Parallax).
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OK Tom,
One more shot at this based on your info. Sounds like you do have the Parallax 5300 converter unit, so I suspect you're correct about your 2018 being a fairly early build. I also suspect that your fundamental problem with the dead coach batteries tracks to the loss of electrolyte from overcharging during a protracted period of storage. For that to be the case, you would have had to be plugged in to shore power (the 15-amp connection), and the main battery disconnect (or power switch) would have to be "ON". I believe those are the conditions that you outlined in your initial post. You saw the other reports in the other thread you posted to about similar problems under similar circumstances. That set of conditions that we just outlined is the way you have to have things set to allow battery charging during storage (as you yourself said), but unfortunately, with the Parallax converter-charger, during a protracted period of charging (especially without attention to battery water), the single stage charge system of the Parallax unit eventually contributes to excessive out-gassing which gradually depletes the water in the cells. Once the electrolyte level drops below the cell plates, the capacity of the battery to produce current is increasingly reduced and as it gets lower and lower eventually the battery is dead. With water (electrolyte) replenishment, and a recharge effort (especially with a "smart charger") it is possible that the battery may recover either partially or largely, depending on age and general condition of the battery. That's something that will have to be established by trial.
In retrospect, a better course of action for storage with that unit would have been to put into storage, fully charged, with the main battery disconnect switch OFF. That should minimize any incidental current draws in storage. Then, on your periodic visits to run your generator, turn the batteries on and let them "top off" while the generator is exercising. I suspect that for a 4-5 month storage period, that approach would have kept your batteries at a reasonable level.
Some options that are available are to replace the single-stage Parallax converter-charger with a multi-stage unit from Progressive Dynamics or another manufacturer as was detailed by some of the posters in the other thread you used. That's not an expensive route, but might seem a little challenging if you aren't familiar with electrical work. Another consideration (especially if you end up having to replace your existing "flooded cell" type batteries is to move to AGM (absorbed glass mat) sealed units. That will help relieve the electrolyte maintenance challenge. The other route that some PC owners have used (Jatrax has some good input on this in forum posts) is to install a TempAssure component from Parallax that they provide to help address this problem. This is an add-on item that attaches to and senses battery temperature, and sends that reading output back to the Parallax 5300, which then adjust charge rate to reduce output to prevent overheating the battery. The battery overheating from the continuous charge from the single stage charger is the mechanism that causes the electrolyte to out-gas. It's a pretty simple install that only requires a single wire to be run from the battery compartment to the 5300.
At the risk of cluttering this post with still more "verbiage", I'm going to copy a couple of excerpts from the Parallax site below. They provide a general description of the TempAssure option, but in the second paragraph please note their "disclaimer" regarding electrolyte level on flooded-type batteries. They are well aware that their unit will potentially result in loss of electrolyte if the user doesn't keep a close eye on it!!
"Your 5300 system may include the (optional) TempAssure™ module and sensor cable. When properly installed, the TempAssure™ system employs technology that allows the output voltage of the converter to be varied by the temperature of the RV’s “house” battery system. The benefit of this feature helps to provide a more appropriate charging voltage for the “house” battery system exposed to varying ambient temperatures. For example, in cold climates the output voltage of the converter will be increased, which results in a more fully charged and maintained battery. In hot climates the output voltage of the converter will automatically lower, which will aid in reducing excessive out-gassing of the battery caused by the battery requiring a lower “float” voltage."
"While the 5300 series converter with the addition of the (optional) TempAssure™ module is designed to provide a better means of charging and maintaining the “house” battery, Parallax Power Supply strongly recommends proper battery maintenance be performed by the owner on non-maintenance free batteries following the battery manufacturer’s recommendations.
DO NOT allow the battery cell plates on non-maintenance free batteries to become exposed to the air. Poor battery performance will result.
Parallax Power Supply will not be responsible for battery failure resulting from improper battery maintenance."
All the best, Mike
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Think that’s it, thanks for all of your help...still a bit miffed to the fact that this rig was supplied with a basic single stage charging system?
- for long term storage the main battery disconnect switch will be OFF, and will periodically use my Optimate to keep the batteries fresh
- good idea leaving the inverter off while on shore power or generator.Did not realize that all 110v receptacles were powered while on shore or generator...thought that there’re was a few of them that were ONLY poewered by the inverter.
- while I am familiar with battery maintenance, I know it may not appear so based on this post, just have not seen this sort of water loss? Even the deep cycle trolling motor batteries I have used?
- Hopfully the Optimax will restore these batteries....if not as someone mentioned, yes we are getting ready to shove off probably early next week so probably the $99 Walmart option. Decide on a long term option.
Thanks again,
Tom
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Tom, for what it's worth---after careful review a couple of times now of the Parallax site and their line of converter-chargers (the first time was when I was trying to determine what would go in my own unit), I believe the Parallax units are good and well-designed converter-chargers for RV applications. I just don't think they should be used in a flooded-cell battery application without installing the TempAssure module. If/when the unit is left plugged in for an extended amount of time, even their low "float voltage" will eventually increase battery heat, increasing out-gassing of the electrolyte. Unless the user is monitoring battery water pretty closely, he ends up with what you experienced. While AGM-type batteries would prevent the electrolyte loss, they would certainly also benefit from the TempAssure technology which provides four different charge voltages based on battery temperature (compared to three from a multi-stage converter-charger like the Progressive Dynamics unit).
I think that with the TempAssure module installed to tailor charge voltage to battery condition, the Parallax unit becomes an excellent converter-charger. I don't know why Parallax didn't just make it a standard feature on the units that can incorporate it, and bump their price accordingly.
All the best, Mike
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Tom, for what it's worth---after careful review a couple of times now of the Parallax site and their line of converter-chargers (the first time was when I was trying to determine what would go in my own unit), I believe the Parallax units are good and well-designed converter-chargers for RV applications. I just don't think they should be used in a flooded-cell battery application without installing the TempAssure module. If/when the unit is left plugged in for an extended amount of time, even their low "float voltage" will eventually increase battery heat, increasing out-gassing of the electrolyte. Unless the user is monitoring battery water pretty closely, he ends up with what you experienced. While AGM-type batteries would prevent the electrolyte loss, they would certainly also benefit from the TempAssure technology which provides four different charge voltages based on battery temperature (compared to three from a multi-stage converter-charger like the Progressive Dynamics unit).
I think that with the TempAssure module installed to tailor charge voltage to battery condition, the Parallax unit becomes an excellent converter-charger. I don't know why Parallax didn't just make it a standard feature on the units that can incorporate it, and bump their price accordingly.
All the best, Mike
Yes, “extended” charging times like long term storage seems to be the issue. I can deal with the storage, and when camping we don’t tend to stay at one location more than a few days...but would still be nice to have the ability to do so without cooking the batteries. As you say, the TempAssure seems like a no brainer thing to do. I plan on getting my Parallex model# today and hopefully adding the TempAssure feature.
Thanks again,
Tom
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We stored our rig for months with no power hook up and no problem. Sometimes it was well below freezing and sometimes over 100 degrees. We ran the generator every month and it did its thing with the batteries at that time. During storage we make sure everything is off and hit the battery kill switch by the door.
Our truck battery went dead once but we figured out the step switch was cycling so we locked it in the out position during storage and all was well.I
Our house batteries started dropping a few months back and we discovered one of the cables to the battery terminals was loose. Once we tightened that, we were good again. Our batteries are going on six years and John thinks they aren't holding a charge as well so we will be replacing them soon.
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TNcanuck, I am curious what might be tripping the GFI breaker when he plugs up at home. Thank you for your explicit explanation on the electrical system as well. Since he is leaving on a trip soon, if the pedestal breaker trips, it might make for not a fun time.
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TNcanuck, I am curious what might be tripping the GFI breaker when he plugs up at home. Thank you for your explicit explanation on the electrical system as well. Since he is leaving on a trip soon, if the pedestal breaker trips, it might make for not a fun time.
Thanks for asking. I have no issues plugged into 30amp breakers at campgrounds. Went on a couple of weekends trips and a two week trip around Lake Superior late last summer and early fall and had no issues.
This issue is when plugging into a 29amp GFI in my garage...the breaker in the coach to the left of the main labeled “Inverter Power” is what is tripping it, when I shut this one off I can plug into my garage. This is sort of why I thought that was the proble, I assumed the XM 1800 inverter was a dual purpose charging and inverter unit?
Tom
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GFI circuits are super sensitive so perhaps that’s why it trips at home but not at a campground. Something to keep in mind, TomB, is that you may have other things plugged and running in the same GFI circuit in your house and when you plug in the RV it’s maxing out that circuit.
Another thing to keep in mind is that GFI outlets are usually daisy chained together on the same circuit. So the GFI outlet in the garage is likely on the same circuit as the GFIs in the kitchen and bathroom. If you had your garage GFI wired as a dedicated circuit then this wouldn’t be the case, but most homes are wired with the GFIs on the same circuit.
In any event, you should always turn the inverter off when connected to shore power or running the generator. If fact, only turn it on when you really want to use AC power when boondocking in order to prevent battery drain. Inverters draw power out of the batteries when turned on and just sitting idle.
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Tom B - you have a separate inverter and converter (charger). Way back when Ron Ditmer's rig was built they were installing a single unit (Trip-Lite). If you have the XM-1800 it is inverter only. There is a separate converter in your rig.
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In my experience GFI's and Inverters don't get along. I have had a number of MH's with various makes of inverters that tripped residential GFI's. Since the 30 and 50 amp outlets in campgrounds don't have GFI's we don't normally experience any problems. I believe the type of circuitry in the inverters causes the trips. I think this is normal and the inverter does not need to be replaced .
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Another question is "did you hook up with a power manager?" - I ask because we hooked up to my Dad's once and found that he had a problem on his end. Just because it is a residential outlet doesn't mean it is working properly.
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Batteries replaced, and TempAssure module installed today.
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Great, Tom!
If you can, please provide any feedback about if/how TempAssure improves things down the road. That would be a big help in the future to others using the Parallax unit and experiencing similar problems. I know that "Jatrax" installed one not too long after he got his 2017 2552, and he said he was happy with how the converter-charger was performing afterwards, but that's the only actual feedback I've seen. Based on all I can absorb from the technical documents, however, I think it will do the job.
All the best, Mike
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Switch Positions?
I have read this topic with interest. Contributors have some very informative replies. I haven't suffered a dead battery. My problem
is related to a vintage device that was installed by a prior owner and I am using without documentation.
My question is of a very rudimentary nature. I have a Tripplite RV2012UL and no documentation. Nor can I find a copy.
I am wondering about the three positions on the switch.
AUTO OFF CHARGE
REMOTE ONLY
The switch position that I don't know the purpose for: CHARGE ONLY
i would appreciate advice from someone who has experience using the device. I can imagine a couple of different scenarios the
switch position would be appropriate for.
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Great, Tom!
If you can, please provide any feedback about if/how TempAssure improves things down the road. That would be a big help in the future to others using the Parallax unit and experiencing similar problems. I know that "Jatrax" installed one not too long after he got his 2017 2552, and he said he was happy with how the converter-charger was performing afterwards, but that's the only actual feedback I've seen. Based on all I can absorb from the technical documents, however, I think it will do the job.
All the best, Mike
The data sheet for thr RV2012UL is available on triplite.com
However,since it is both an inverter and a charger, it would make sense to me that the Charge Only position would do just that, set the device to only charge the house batteries when connected to shore power and do nothing when not connected to shore power.
Th Auto setting, would turn the inverter portion on when not plugging into shore power, but when plugged into shore power... it would only charge your coach batteries.
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I saw the sorry excuse for TrippLites explanation for the switch positions. There was a short paragraph dedicated T o switch positions where the charge function was described as "⊙☆●□♤£€\~~¡◇♡€£¥".
Obviously, an error it was meaningless and neither usable as a hyperlink or text.
Although I appreciate your response, your answer begs the question: charge position for shore power only? Or, is to be used in conjunction with the truck generator?
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There is an interesting addition to the information contained in the Tripp Lite Manual, Very informative!
Explanation including narrative posted by another member
https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php/topic,73.0.html
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I saw the sorry excuse for TrippLites explanation for the switch positions. There was a short paragraph dedicated T o switch positions where the charge function was described as "⊙☆●□♤£€\~~¡◇♡€£¥".
Obviously, an error it was meaningless and neither usable as a hyperlink or text.
Although I appreciate your response, your answer begs the question: charge position for shore power only? Or, is to be used in conjunction with the truck generator?
I see you found Ron's post. Yes, as I said, you can only charge your chassis (HOUSE) batteries when you have a source of power (shore power or GENERATOR or engine alternator). Since when you have power from generator or plugged in, you don't need the inverter... you already have 110v for the TV outlets and so forth. Thus the charge only position. For me, that would be the normal switch position.
However, if I wasn't plugged in (or running generator) and I wanted to use a 110v appliance, like a coffee maker or TV.. Then put the switch in the inverter position and the TripLite will then use your HOUSE batteries and convert the 12v DC into 110v AC. Obviously drawing power from the chassis (HOUSE) batteries. As Ron mentioned, even if you are not using a 110v appliance, the inverter itself, draws some power from the HOUSE batteries if the switch is in the inverter position, so why waste that power, turn the switch to charge only.
Make sense?
Don
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I saw the sorry excuse for TrippLites explanation for the switch positions. There was a short paragraph dedicated T o switch positions where the charge function was described as "⊙☆●□♤£€\~~¡◇♡€£¥".
Obviously, an error it was meaningless and neither usable as a hyperlink or text.
Although I appreciate your response, your answer begs the question: charge position for shore power only? Or, is to be used in conjunction with the truck generator?
I see you found Ron's post. Yes, as I said, you can only charge your chassis batteries when you have a source of power (shore power or generator). Since when you have power from generator or plugged in, you don't need the inverter... you already have 110v for the TV outlets and so forth. Thus the charge only position. For me, that would be the normal switch position.
However, if I wasn't plugged in (or running generator) and I wanted to use a 110v appliance, like a coffee maker or TV.. Then put the switch in the inverter position and the TripLite will then use your batteries and convert the 12v DC into 110v AC. Obviously drawing power from the chassis batteries. As Ron mentioned, even if you are not using a 110v appliance, the inverter itself, draws some power from the batteries if the switch is in the inverter position, so why waste that power, turn the switch to charge only.
Make sense?
Don
Now I am confused! You wrote: "you can only charge your chassis batteries when you have a source of power (shore power or generator)." I did not think that on my 2007 2350 the chassis battery received a charge when plugged into shore power or from the generator; I thought only the house batteries did. My understanding was that the chassis battery only gets charged by the alternator when the coach engine is running (or if you open the switch by the driver's left knee to transfer power from the house batteries, or of course if you have some other form of charger attached to the chassis battery (solar, trickle, etc.). Maybe I am confused about which battery is called what? I've always heard the battery in the engine compartment used to start the engine called the "coach" or "chassis" battery, and the ones used to power lights, appliances, pump, etc., called the "house" batteries. Please set me straight!
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Flei,
My bad... I used the wrong term, I generally call them the engine and house batteries, but occasionally use the term "chassis battery" to refer to the house battery.
You are correct, shore power (other than that white switch or a Trik-l-Start) only charges the house batteries, not the engine battery. The engine battery is typically charged by the alternator on the engine.
I will go edit my post to correct that.
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2o2
Flei,
My bad... I used the wrong term, I generally call them the engine and house batteries, but occasionally use the term "chassis battery" to refer to the house battery.
You are correct, shore power (other than that white switch or a Trik-l-Start) only charges the house batteries, not the engine battery. The engine battery is typically charged by the alternator on the engine.
I will go edit my post to correct that.
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I appreciate the responses. Without the information volunteered by forum members, I would be at a complete loss. The unit is new to me and I am a first time RV'r.
I purchased the PC in January of 2020 and traveled to Oregon to take possession just in time to meet with government restrictions causing me to put the rig into storage and postpone using it for a year. Now, the preliminary precautions for travel and familiarization have me mystified. PC Forum has been helpful.
Thanks to the guides, I now know the complicated (?) steps necessary to perform the most basic operations. And, even in my case, when asking about subjects that are now fifteen years past maturity, members are quick to respond.
There is a wealth of information archived. Although subject lines are sometimes obscured, I find replies are sometimes tangent to the topic
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Hi Taildragger,
I seemed to have missed your questions.
Like yourself, we have the original Tripp-Lite 2000 watt inverter/converter in our 2007 model 2350.
Because we almost exclusively boondock (rarely have 110V shore power available) on our trips, to avoid unnecessary drain on the house batteries, we keep the inverter in the "off" mode until we want it to serve us. That is primarily supplying 110V from the house batteries to watch TV. Then we put it on "auto/remote" mode. When "off" while driving, the batteries still get directly charged from the alternator on the Ford V10 engine.
When staying at a campsite without 110V shore power available for extended periods, we charge our house batteries about one hour per day from the generator. I could utilize the Tripp-Lite in "charge only" mode, but I have a more effective external charger that I prefer to use. It provides twice the charging energy (40 amps versus 20 amps) and also has a nice read-out of the charging process. I used the Tripp-Lite the first few years, but was never sure of the charging state of the batteries. One thing certain, the green/yellow/red LED readout on battery health is very misleading. When the light turns yellow, it is already too late to regain a full recharge via the generator without running it for roughly 3 to 4 hours. Though our secondary charger helps reduce the generator run time, the Tripp-Lite still works well. But the read-out on the secondary charger helps me determine when to stop charging much better than the 3 color LED readout.
Read my write-up here for some extra tips.
https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php/topic,73.0.html (https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php/topic,73.0.html)
This link is of a list of links on various topics, a few about house batteries.
https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3022.0 (https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3022.0)