Cruisers Forum

Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: Volkemon on February 22, 2019, 12:25:31 pm

Title: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on February 22, 2019, 12:25:31 pm: MO Projects... :lol

The paint on the exterior mirror bases was flaking off the aluminum due to corrosion. Being that they look like they were taken off a 1978 Winnebago, I was eager to update the looks. The factory tow mirrors look so much better, and extend out far enough to see around the coach with ease.

Got new ones, factory copies. No heaters, but do have power adjusting. They are the extendable towing style. Like these -
http://www.topgearautosport.com/part/A12246JP221/Ford_E350_2003-2007_Power_Towing_Mirrors.html (http://www.topgearautosport.com/part/A12246JP221/Ford_E350_2003-2007_Power_Towing_Mirrors.html)

Anyone else do this? Wiring advice welcome. Never done power mirrors.

My first step (after checking back here when I get home...) will be multimeter on wires, and work the switch. Hope not to let any magic smoke out when doing testing...

My Cruiser is gonna look like a cruiser now, not a hopeful elephant.. roflol

(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71FxMiGNJQL._SY355_.jpg)
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade
Post by: Volkemon on February 25, 2019, 07:13:19 am: WoooHooo! Easy Peasy.

Found the wiring diagram for the velvac mirrors here:
https://www.velvac.com/sites/default/files/resource-files/2020_wiring_diagram_-_ford_e-van_7475242_12.pdf (https://www.velvac.com/sites/default/files/resource-files/2020_wiring_diagram_-_ford_e-van_7475242_12.pdf)

The Velvac mirror was trapping water inside between the mirror casting and the gasket. Thats what was corroding the outside, it creeped around the edge from the inside. Lucky for me the gasket protected the door...could been nasty. Still works fine... anyone need a pair of mirrors? :)(:

The connector on the new mirrors had 3 terminals, one appeared to be a common, with two wires on it. Pushed wires in... and it worked! (But horizontal was vertical..) Switched the two single wires, and it was fine.

So it ended up using the yellow, black and white wires from the original controller. Yellow was common, connect to the two wires from the mirror. Black on the coach went to yellow on the new mirror, and white from the coach to green on the mirror. Works perfect!

No heaters, so i put a pigtail on the + wire and left it protected. Might use it to switch ramp lights. :-D

Put the new headlights in... 2o2 Damn. Looks new, and the pattern is SO SO SO much better than the old ones. Sharp cutoff line. Painted the grill areas that were gray to black, it looks like an Explorer? Expedition? Definitely changed the look, but looks factory. Will post pics, between finishing windshield, lights, and TV mount i didnt get online, much less post pics. :lol

Also got the LED lights put in the headliner to light the front area. The original light didnt cut it.. now there is NO lack of light. Used these: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Truck-Tuff-Truck-Bed-LED-Lights/51901266 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Truck-Tuff-Truck-Bed-LED-Lights/51901266) 12V lights are VERY handy different places. Made my under counter lights from them also.

Mrs V is VERY happy with the new look on the coach. Mission underway and going well! heartshower
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade
Post by: CalCruiser on February 25, 2019, 10:44:30 am: PM sent
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade
Post by: Ron Dittmer on February 25, 2019, 12:31:20 pm: I love your projects Volkemon.

Regarding Outside Mirrors
I won't be changing out our mirrors unless there is some kind of catastrophic failure whether by an accident or a hardware failure. For me in our particular situation, the mirrors need to be folded in or brought in to the point they do not stick out any farther than the body of the motor home. That would be a requirement for the rig to fit through our garage door.

About Cab Interior Lighting
More evenly distributed lighting instead of a pair of spot lights would be nicer. I have been contemplating replacing the high intensity incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs for the same amount or more light, but operate at a much lower wattage.(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8228/8463546500_4ee91cd3bb_z.jpg)

About The Front Grille
I am fine with our stock grille, but thought those "billet" grilles looked nice for the 2007 on-back E-series. Some fit over the stock grille, some replace the stock grille. I would get the "replace" version if at all.

I also seen hoods with tasteful integrated scoops installed on high-end motor homes of that era, but I don't know if they are 100% fiberglass like my rust-free stock hood is.

I really like the style of our 2007 with Phoenix's optional bumper skin with integrated fog lights. I never cared for the dump truck industrial look introduced in 2008 in place to this today.

Here is our 2007 2350 with Phoenix's optional front bumper cover.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3495/3743987425_a84c364696_z.jpg)
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade
Post by: Volkemon on February 25, 2019, 01:48:20 pm: I will have to get pics posted... the mirrors fold up just like factory...cause they are. :) I would not have been OK with non folding also!

Wait until you see the lights in the headliner. Awesome. Small planes are diverting over to the pool of light. :lol

Ditto on the grill. I got the 'replace' billet grill... it looks OK. Too much stuff visible through it, and required a custom job to make the secondary release work well. Put it back in the box for now. Just painting the inserts on the factory grill black was a 'WOW' moment. I really like how with the headlights and stock grill it looks 'factory' but custom also...

Pics coming. ;)

Oh yeah.. Bumper cover... I love the look,never seemed to fit right, always looked 'off'. Found out why... there are only 2 (TWO) pop rivits holding it to the bumper. :beg No holes from others that left, no rust outs....2 pop rivits from the factory. thats it. >(

Twisted it 'up' to level it....MUCH better. Going to pull the cover off to check condition of the bumper below, then reinstall...with more than 2 pop rivits!!

On second look... thats a fuzzy headliner ya' got! And does your curtain go under the visors? Ours is just inside the cutout perimeter, further back. Hm!

Third look... ther eis a slight tear in the center of your headliner, behind the light...did that house something? Mine has a ~6x6 hole cut out of the plastic there. The replacement headliner material covered it, but I was wondering what might have been there. Going to put in an aluminum plate with wood backing to mount a reverse camera/ monitor. was wondering what might have been from Phoenix.

Thanks!!
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Volkemon on February 25, 2019, 08:16:47 pm: The bug shield was Ford OEM.. NOS dated 2002. :beg It is older than the camper. roflol

Wanted to post a couple pics. More coming!
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Ron Dittmer on February 25, 2019, 11:11:04 pm: Lookin great!

Your interior lighting is fulfilling. Is it "all on" or switched for passenger half and driver half like our spot lights are setup? Irene likes to have her spot light on while I drive.

In my interior picture, the messed up headliner is where the back-up monitor used to be mounted. I ditched the center mirror and relocated the monitor there, then mounted the ScanGuage-II on top of it. One day I might muster up the time to walk through a big junk yard in search of something that could be mounted there, a shallow cubby-hole of sorts to cover-up the damaged headliner.

BTW: If your grille paint job doesn't hold up, I think brand new knock-off Ford 2006 front grilles sell cheap on Ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-Ford-Econoline-Van-Front-Grille-Chrome-Platinum/143111538063?hash=item21521cc58f:g:BuoAAOSwXgxcU5ev:rk:23:pf:0 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-Ford-Econoline-Van-Front-Grille-Chrome-Platinum/143111538063?hash=item21521cc58f:g:BuoAAOSwXgxcU5ev:rk:23:pf:0)

I'd love to see pictures of your side mirrors in stubby fashion, extended fashion, and folded in.

If memory serves me right, there is some double-sided foam tape holding the bumper cover to the OEM bumper. It is not only those two rivets. I would imagine the foam tape also eliminates vibration sounds.

To use the curtain, we have to fold-down the sun-visors. Phoenix may have mounted the track there so we can use the passenger swivel seat with the curtain closed. It does work so.
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Volkemon on February 26, 2019, 05:38:44 am: Quote from: Ron Dittmer on February 25, 2019, 11:11:04 pm
Lookin great!

Your interior lighting is fulfilling. Is it "all on" or switched for passenger half and driver half like our spot lights are setup? Irene likes to have her spot light on while I drive.

At the moment, wires taped to the windshield. :lol It is going to be 'all on', but with pushbuttons top center to defeat either/both sides ceiling lights. There is going to be a separate 'spot' for navigator/asst. driver use. If the brightness becomes an issue, a dimmer could be easily added. I love the brightness for those lights, however.

In my interior picture, the messed up headliner is where the back-up monitor used to be mounted. I ditched the center mirror and relocated the monitor there, then mounted the ScanGuage-II on top of it. One day I might muster up the time to walk through a big junk yard in search of something that could be mounted there, a shallow cubby-hole of sorts to cover-up the damaged headliner.

Mine has a cutout in the original support like something was there... but no wires or screw holes to suggest what. There is no support plate back there yet, or if one was it is gone. Is there a solid mounting surface behind yours? (I just noticed you dont use an interior mirror. I like mine, it does allow monitoring the trailer.)

BTW: If your grille paint job doesn't hold up, I think brand new knock-off Ford 2006 front grilles sell cheap on Ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-Ford-Econoline-Van-Front-Grille-Chrome-Platinum/143111538063?hash=item21521cc58f:g:BuoAAOSwXgxcU5ev:rk:23:pf:0 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-2003-2004-2005-2006-2007-Ford-Econoline-Van-Front-Grille-Chrome-Platinum/143111538063?hash=item21521cc58f:g:BuoAAOSwXgxcU5ev:rk:23:pf:0)

Yep! Same grill, chrome and grey.(platinum) I used the 'trim' black, which I have had good luck using externally down here. The chrome is in good shape on mine, luckily.

I'd love to see pictures of your side mirrors in stubby fashion, extended fashion, and folded in.

I have those pictures, I was a bit loose on my time management last night and didnt get a chance to post. Will be coming up.. There is even a 'folded forward for shaving mirror' pic also.

If memory serves me right, there is some double-sided foam tape holding the bumper cover to the OEM bumper. It is not only those two rivets. I would imagine the foam tape also eliminates vibration sounds.

If so, the tape is long gone. The cover wiggles freely. I am going to be removing it, will see if there is evidence of tape. Seems that tape and two rivits might be a tad shy on attachment...but it did last 13 years so far..

To use the curtain, we have to fold-down the sun-visors. Phoenix may have mounted the track there so we can use the passenger swivel seat with the curtain closed. It does work so.

Ah! That would be the case. We dont turn the seat around, so has not been an issue. Wouldnt mind moving it, I wonder if the track on ours is even long enough ...
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Volkemon on February 26, 2019, 06:27:08 am: https://www.facebook.com/volke.mon/media_set?set=a.943868619149682&type=3 (https://www.facebook.com/volke.mon/media_set?set=a.943868619149682&type=3)

More pics posted for the windshield repair. Ron... dont look at them before bed...nightmare material... :beg

Happy ending though!

EDIT - these are supposed to be public accessible pictures... does the link above work for others? Thanks!
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: 2 Frazzled on February 27, 2019, 08:22:28 am: It wants me to log in to facebook. I don't have Facebook so no go for me.
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Volkemon on February 27, 2019, 09:54:07 am: Quote from: 2 Frazzled on February 27, 2019, 08:22:28 am
It wants me to log in to facebook. I don't have Facebook so no go for me.

Thanks for the feedback. I tried from another computer and no-go. SUPPOSED to be public access. >( Even though I wasnt signed in, the cookies must have allowed it for me.

FB makes my hobby much easier, so I joined. And they believed I was a 30-something from Ayer-ayer Nigeria, live in moscow and graduated school in 1922 (found a glitch in their signup and exploited it). Hope their marketing gets miles from that. Interesting enough, NO junk messages from Nigerian Princes to help move money. Thought I would be a prime target. roflol

I took a cue from Ron D, and signed up for a flick account. Now I just have to make the time to upload there, and link to here. Then all can see without restrictions. More sharing. heartshower

[rant]
I know it saves server bandwidth not to do so, but it might really help PC to allow ~~heathens~~ non members :lol to see pictures. There are future buyers looking here, and limiting their experience is a way to make a first impression...albeit not a good one IMO. I would think ANYTHING to promote the PC ownership experience would help.
[/rant] :-D thanks.
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Ron Dittmer on February 27, 2019, 10:09:04 am: Volkemon,

I did look at your windshield pictures. People don't realize the risk introduced in having your windshield replaced.

Both us with our sedan and our son with his sedan had a few very minor chips in our original windshields. Against my advise, our son had his windshield replaced of which did not go well. I instead had our minor chips repaired on our original windshield.

I hope never to replace the original windshield on any of our vehicles. As you are dealing with, service techs replacing windshields are careless with their sharp cutting blades removing old rubber sealant. They scrape off original body paint exposing bare steel that remains unprotected thereafter causing rust around their windshield in the years that follow.
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Volkemon on February 27, 2019, 10:30:59 am: Quote from: Ron Dittmer on February 27, 2019, 10:09:04 am

I hope never to replace the original windshield on any of our vehicles. As you are dealing with, service techs replacing windshields are careless with their sharp cutting blades removing old rubber sealant. They scrape off original body paint exposing bare steel that remains unprotected thereafter causing rust around their windshield in the years that follow.

You on FB Ron? Hit me up - Volke Mon. (from nigeria, live in Moscow. Thats me. :lol) Couple other forum members there on the PC page.

Lets not throw the baby out with the bathwater.. indeed my problems were caused by a careless tech replacing the windshield. Probably a rush job at a dealership, and thats where and how a LOT of BS work happens... But in all fairness, I have had many WS replacement techs that do a spectacular job, leaving the area as factory new or better. They do have a primer to cover all those cut/scraped spots. Whether they use it... I do realize I got premium treatment due to my knowledge in the field, and that I was there taking pictures. roflol Here's hoping anyone else here having a WS replaced may be a bit better informed, and know what to look for.

Suppose the lesson to bring away for now also is LOOK AT THE WINDSHIELD when buying a camper. If it is not OEM, look closer for rust drips. There are a few spots you can peer in under the hood and see without disassembly.
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Ron Dittmer on February 27, 2019, 10:56:14 am: Volkemon,

I am so NOT, NOT, NOT into Facebook. I have an account but almost never use it. My only FB friends is my extended family and even then all the Facebook notifications were so overwhelming that I had to turn off notifications from even my family. I don't need to know every detail of every day. I actually hate using Face Book. If you want to connect with me, I am right here. My email address is available through the PC forum member list.

Ron Dittmer
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Volkemon on February 27, 2019, 12:10:44 pm: Quote from: Ron Dittmer on February 27, 2019, 10:56:14 am
Volkemon,

I am so NOT, NOT, NOT into Facebook. I have an account but almost never use it. My only FB friends is my extended family and even then all the Facebook notifications were so overwhelming that I had to turn off notifications from even my family. I don't need to know every detail of every day. I actually hate using Face Book. If you want to connect with me, I am right here. My email address is available through the PC forum member list.

Ron Dittmer

roflol not an uncommon facebook response. Hate... thats a strong word in my world. I enjoy recording live music, and there has not been a better medium to reach out to musicians. But I dont use FB 'right' either... almost never post, I dont follow people, and usually the first thing I do after friending someone is to unfollow. Mrs V is on constantly, and keeps me advised of the 'goings on'. Facebook is like any other tool - used in the right way, can be very helpful. Use it not fully realizing how it works...you can do damage. Truthfully, I am little distressed sometimes at the time and energy Mrs V puts into FB.. but I am sure I do the same with other things and she has the grace not to complain.

My 75 YO mother cant get enough of it, and is THRILLED each time she makes new connections with people from her past. I was pleasantly surprised to find a picture of her from 1961 as the reining Beauty Queen of Treasure Island, FL opening the 'new' toll bridge. 2o2 Bridge is still there, but the tolls are no longer collected. Were it not for FB... doubt I ever would have seen it. So her delight has made me reconsider my instinctive dislike for such a social platform, and I try to use the good in it.

I thought it would be an easy place to host pictures, and confirmed that one USED to be able to view public albums without signing up. But no more, evidently.
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Cropduster on February 28, 2019, 08:14:10 pm: I agree with Herr Dittmer, no Facebook for der Frauen and myself. Also no Twitter, Snapchat, Instagram, ... Only email. But, to each their own.
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Volkemon on March 06, 2019, 12:18:44 pm: Quote from: Ron Dittmer on February 25, 2019, 11:11:04 pm
Lookin great!

I'd love to see pictures of your side mirrors in stubby fashion, extended fashion, and folded in.

OK...see if I got the flickr thing working...and allow the visitors to see pics!

Mirror folded forward, aka 'Shaving Position'
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7831/47241688512_843942095f_c.jpg)

Mirror folded back
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7818/32352135047_943a57030c_c.jpg)

Extended to outer position
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7821/47241687872_78bd26aa30_c.jpg)

and retracted to inner position aka 'Crusin' mode :lol

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7856/32352133327_d6c41cdc2e_c.jpg)

well.. preview looks good!

I tried to get parallel with the rear area to accurately represent visibility. They work great!
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Ron Dittmer on March 06, 2019, 03:42:32 pm: Thanks for the pics Volkemon! I love them. The unpainted plastic would also be a perfect match for our PC. If or when I need to replace our outside mirrors, I will remember your great alternative. Ours has heated mirrors, but I have never used them. I wouldn't even know if they work because our rig has never been in messy freezing weather, a very easy sacrifice to make.

The only serious problem I have with our mirrors is that they attract children tempted to hang on them. I caught a child one time. How many did I not catch? Whenever we stop, we fold them in to hide the attraction. If we ever return to our PC and find a mirror hanging, it will be because we forgot to fold them in and a heavier child just couldn't resist. I anticipate such a day and now have a very affordable solution that does not involve paint-work, and also eliminates the reoccurring child attraction. All thanks to you Volkemon.

(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2432/3743989153_b6411a139a_z.jpg)
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Volkemon on March 06, 2019, 06:36:43 pm: (https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7829/46570724094_a5a8051347_h.jpg)

Headlights are an easy replace...and the improved beam pattern is a safety argument that makes the coooool looks secondary. Razor sharp. May need LED bulbs..

Mrs V was *SO* happy I replaced the marker lights. She couldn't stand the others.

A 'during construction' pic, the wires are taped to the windshield to stay clear.

Wait until the airdam goes on. :cool Gonna 'mad max' it a tad... I want them to move when they see me coming in the rear view mirror...
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: CalCruiser on March 06, 2019, 07:00:08 pm: Looking good ! Where did you get those headlamps?
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Volkemon on March 06, 2019, 07:21:27 pm: Online.

roflol Sorry. Had to.

I bought them as a set, with 'blackout' turn signal/marker lights. The side markers were garbage IMO, impossible to see in sunlight.

Complete set - I would not buy it again. https://www.amazon.com/Econoline-Super-Headlights-Corner-Lights-x/dp/B009X5WXD0 (https://www.amazon.com/Econoline-Super-Headlights-Corner-Lights-x/dp/B009X5WXD0)

These are just the headlights - https://www.amazon.com/Autozensation-Econoline-Black-Crystal-Headlights/dp/B07MZH69XR/ref=asc_df_B07MZH69XR/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241869369567&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4072177910645507115&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011835&hvtargid=pla-641705767627&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Autozensation-Econoline-Black-Crystal-Headlights/dp/B07MZH69XR/ref=asc_df_B07MZH69XR/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241869369567&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4072177910645507115&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011835&hvtargid=pla-641705767627&psc=1)

I suppose you could order either, only `$2 difference. :lol Google around, might find the same lights for a few less.

Mine had one piece that was incorrect in size, didnt fit the new retainer bars or the old ones. I transferred the piece from the old lights to the new ones, the screw thread was the same.

The adjustment screws are very small allen/hex heads. Maybe 3mm? I have yet to find a nutdriver or a tool for then yet, my needlenose vise grips are working.

The LED 's are OK, not DRL brightness, but maybe nice for camp use or turn signal supplement.
Title: Re: 2006 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other cosmetic enhancements..
Post by: Volkemon on March 06, 2019, 07:41:58 pm: Got the TV in, and managed to wrap the headliner up and into the old surround. There is a GREAT little pocket up there for remotes, etc.

It is offset to the right to allow access to the left cabinet without unlocking the TV. Extends out ~18 inches, swivels, tilts etc. 32" tv.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7904/47293883321_bb71f1ae73_h.jpg)

A-pillar trim in black vinyl now, flows nicely with the headliner. And another big bright thing out of my field of vision. 2o2

I like how the bottom 'wide' mirror stays put no matter where I have my main mirror.

Looking for black visors, may have these resewn with some of the extra black vinyl. Paint the minor plastic bits.

Next major project is to paint/replace the dash trim, window switch trim etc. Carbon fiber wrap would be cool...but black is fine. That faux wood (?) look doesn't fit the cockpit.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7839/40329257213_d3a554a2bb_h.jpg)

roflol I know it looks like a redneck paradise... this was taken with a friends camper in the driveway, and on the seafood festival weekend. The recycle bin had to be centrally located. :)(: Thats about a cord of oak behind for the firepit behind the steering wheel.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on March 07, 2019, 11:33:15 am: TV mounting/cabinet reinforcement pics

Initial 'mockup' of parts. Few screws to hold it, putty knife holding the trim up. Just to see if things fit. I needed to move the TV ~4 inches back to clear the doors. Stacked (2) 2x4's, and a piece of 3/4 multi-ply wood . Perfect. (Added 6 pounds of weight, bolts included)

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7824/47241700992_1274b8049e_h.jpg)

Trace around everything, remove mock up.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7847/47241702302_f01822eae4_h.jpg)

Remove the original support panel, fitting the two carriage bolts on the bottom. You can see the two vertical bolts holding the crossmember to the roof. Sawdust is piled on the back of the headliner support. You can also see where I pre drilled the holes in the walls for the support bolts. This was the reason for tracing outlines, made it easy to see where to drill.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7804/47241702832_229c636cdb_h.jpg)

Those two lower bolts attached to the bottom of the back piece. Now adding the inner, lower support.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7889/47241703372_09c6d03a3b_h.jpg)

Outer lower support on, and through bolts to unite all. With glue. (Liquid Nails construction adhesive)

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7862/47241704062_4710eb6d37_h.jpg)

Drill (through the holes I put in earlier) into the 2x4's.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7853/47241704542_b2fdb715da_h.jpg)

Bolts and washers...

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7820/47241705072_f2c3122786_h.jpg)

And drive them home. You can see the head of one of the other bolts I added to secure the roof to the cabinet. All 4 zip screws from the factory were not into the wood. Both sides. I put 1/4 x 2" carriage bolts with washers. CAnt really go overboard with fastener strength, as it is holding onto 1/4 plywood...

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7830/47241705552_169f4700b6_h.jpg)

Next morning...SO beautiful in the back yard. My coconut palms are on year 2, and doing well. 2o2 Inspired now to do finish work.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7848/47241708382_8b1a5a5dec_h.jpg)

Put in support plate for mounting of backup camera later. 1/8 aluminum. You can see the nut and washer from the holdown bolts, and the new interior lights also.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7903/46379155855_1dec927abb_h.jpg)

This is getting to be a big post... part two next.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on March 07, 2019, 11:53:15 am: OK , we last left with the headliner support pulled, mounting plate installed. Time to prep for headliner material. CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN will make it last. Dont skimp on prep... cry once.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7847/47241706812_e3d5481ff9_h.jpg)

Start gluing! Got the glue at Home Depot. Make SURE you let it dry long enough before setting in place. The headliner foam was in good shape, so I left it. *SOMEDAY* that will come back to haunt me, when the foam dissolves and leaves the hanging fabric we have all seen. I am pretty sure there is enough edge support that it will be fine.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7844/47241707172_47960f54a4_h.jpg)

Ready for install! Got all 8 lights trimmed out, and had an idea... what if I could do a continuous wrap up the TV trim? (exactly) So I left it long for now.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7870/47241707922_14e354e209_h.jpg)

Headliner in place, TV mount on for fitting. Doing this type of work, be prepared to take parts on and off MANY MANY times. Doing the interior lights, I had to do 10 (TEN) in-and-out's of the headliner. Be patient. If you dont have the time to do it right, HOW are you going to find time to fix it later?

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7814/46379156415_874d49edd1_h.jpg)

And cut. Always the nerve wracking part...1/2 inch off and... do it again.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7851/46379157025_a82a42fb8f_h.jpg)

And now I figure it might be a good idea to do the inner lining before putting the trim up... (nod) I used black headliner material.
Yes, I miscut on the upper right. No, you wont see it.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7886/46379159345_246eb08ca0_h.jpg)

Trim up and screwed in, the cardboard in the lower right is a glue spray shield. Time to finish up!

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7841/46379159995_4becd62ae4_h.jpg)

Ready for TV. LOVE the 'seamless' wrap from headliner to surround trim on the bottom.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7846/46379160805_1676f2bc7b_h.jpg)

First test. Still some minor trim to go up, but came out great!

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7860/47293881891_c2e5e80f7a_h.jpg)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on March 07, 2019, 12:02:11 pm: One item that has bothered both of us since day one was the marker lights. The dealership had replaced the middle 3 thinking that was where the leak was... they used 2 white and one black base. REALLY?!?!?! >( BEsides, I am pretty sure those markers are the cheapest thing you can buy to fit the bill. And it showed. I found some 16 LED 'halo' markers. NICE glow, and look very sleek and modern.

More chrome to polish. Meh. Such is life, girls like shiny things...

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7867/32352137747_73babe7c4d_h.jpg)

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7927/47241689532_1ca5b1b319_h.jpg)

The original 3 in the middle were not installed in a straight line, I was not ready to drill and seal MORE holes.. so I used the original spots. Catch it when we do paint.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on March 07, 2019, 12:13:56 pm: Front bumper mods are coming... would LOVE to have a bullbar in front and concealed battery mounts... Much measuring and planning left. The bumper cover is only on with 2 pop rivets, and (I was told...) some 2-sided tape from the factory. It flops around. :beg Got it pretty straight in this pic.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7846/46379139805_02368a0473_h.jpg)

Now I imagine that the person that designed the bumper cover and the person that did the fender flares may have never met. This transition shows that, and I hope to sculpt something better when fiberglass work starts. This spot drives me buggy.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7909/46379138485_ad8d3e8c7f_h.jpg)

This is a bull bar:

(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61INi07hgXL._SX425_.jpg)

Quote
A bullbar or push bumper is a device installed on the front of a vehicle to protect its front from collisions, whether an accidental collision with a large animal in rural roads, or an intentional collision with another vehicle.. :lol ....
(Wikipedia)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on March 11, 2019, 04:42:17 pm: Bathroom improvements underway. We originally had the sliding plastic door. It was past its service life, to be kind.

Removal of the original slider curtain, a conventional shower curtain with rings (using the original top crossbar) was used for a while. Not very pleasant or roomy, with the shower caddy hanging off 3 hooks.

Mrs V found The Extend A Shower -

(https://cdn3.volusion.com/dxylq.nruds/v/vspfiles/photos/88-8000-3.jpg)

Off came the original brass frame. Screws held everything. Looked SO much bigger in there.

You can see me using a wire to figure out the center length. The bar is too big as it comes, but can be trimmed. The wire method didnt work, however. >( The bar hinges only flex 90*. I cut twice... better than too short!

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7901/47352190731_774ecf3998_c.jpg)

Mocked up with the old curtain. It added a lot of room, effectively being a 32x32 shower 'up top' on a 24x32 pan.
(new ceiling fan install, had not trimmed inside collar yet) (the brown streaks are the original 'glue drools' from the factory room lamination)

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7848/47299357972_e78f44bba8_c.jpg)

Removing the old frame left some icky reveals..
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7829/47299626712_7ec338ed2b_h.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7924/46629259094_d84873ef9b_c.jpg)

The wall side just has a few holes to patch, but is a nice PVC channel. :)

Used this - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Royal-Mouldings-5205-1-1-8-in-x-1-1-8-in-x-8-ft-PVC-Composite-White-Outside-Corner-Moulding-0520508011/202089993 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Royal-Mouldings-5205-1-1-8-in-x-1-1-8-in-x-8-ft-PVC-Composite-White-Outside-Corner-Moulding-0520508011/202089993) for trim. one eight foot piece did it. VERY easy to work with.
Bedded it in silicone. LOTS of it. (nod)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7897/47352453431_de62071a50_h.jpg)

Couple images taken from the floor, trying to show the change. The brass bar is the 'original line' I propped up for reference.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7851/33476394368_99e87fc2ac_h.jpg)
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7870/32410478277_1f9d846e76_h.jpg)

(cheer) (cheer) More room while showering, more room on the commode. I have broad shoulders... (cheer) (cheer)

This was progress from the weekend, more to come. Complete remodel is in the works, as we both dont like the sink/cabinet location.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on March 11, 2019, 04:52:28 pm: A note on the new headlights and Mirrors...

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7829/46570724094_a5a8051347_h.jpg)

When I went to replace them, one of the mounts did not work with the slide. It was too big for the keyhole. So I had to lube up the screw, and remove the old one and transfer it. Worked great!
This is the new mount on the old headlight, going back to the 'spare parts' depo. :lol

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7851/47352191661_4e54be1b5e_h.jpg)

Was easier than modifying the new one to work. (exactly)

The old mirrors were collecting water inside, and corroding after doing so for ~13 years... the gasket was too small for it to seal properly. Lucky for me, the gasket DID contain all the water and schmutz, so the door was unharmed.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7813/32410217047_f5a5fe7922_c.jpg)

>:( on to more.....
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on March 11, 2019, 05:07:24 pm: Side marker light replacement...

Putting in really cool lights. The have a 'mirror tunnel' inside, and have the illusion of depth. People try to poke their fingers in. roflol
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7814/47241698992_529e5ba634_h.jpg)

First problem... trying to center a hole saw when there is a HUGE off center hole...

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7897/47352187121_f502910ec6_h.jpg)

Easy Peasy. I used a scrap cutout from cutting the 4" holes in the trailer for a jig. Any small piece will work.

Cut a hole in the jig with the holesaw, then drill two holes to line up the jig where you want it. I used the original screw holes to avoid having MORE to patch.

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7809/47299355342_1312f128d8_h.jpg)

Cut carefully, using the ring to guide. Use both hands, and go slow. It will require concentration.

Yes... some cleaning due on that trim. :lol

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7817/47352186461_6f46b386b9_h.jpg)

Remove the jig, and install the light!

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7809/47299354782_9327b5d106_h.jpg)

Paint will make it better...but it works!

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7861/47352185901_7e6a2cec19_h.jpg)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on August 03, 2019, 02:15:00 pm: Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.
Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic.

Wow... guess i have been busy elsewhere. My own thread neglected... :'(

Anyhoo... rainy day, got the new grill modified to look good. (exactly)

This is what I bought, the picture 'on the van' does not quite show the whole story..

(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61WGX9TpVDL._SX425_.jpg)

When the grill is on the van, the radiator, trans cooler, etc etc are ALL very visible. Even with everything behind painted flat black, it looks naked. :beg I fit it on the van, and did NOT like the look. Very 'unfinished'

Look at the picture below, and notice how the tile floor shows through easily-

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48447128766_534d25833f_k.jpg)

So in a box it has sat, waiting for a rainy day. Well, it's rainy season! (nod)

Crack one open and lets go! :)(:

I got a sheet of perforated aluminum from Home Depot. 3' x 3' for ~$35, used half of it.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-3-ft-x-3-ft-Aluminum-Venetian-Bronze-Lincane-Sheet-57015/202525469

(https://images.homedepot-static.com/productImages/29e25fd6-db85-45fa-97e2-b597caf2b4cd/svn/m-d-building-products-sheet-57015-64_1000.jpg)

Formed the edges, and cut to fit grill inserts. Painted flat black.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48447293002_1dd71db340_k.jpg)

Test fit - note how it obscures the tile behind! 2o2

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48447292272_aba3419961_k.jpg)

Used pop rivets to hold the inserts to the grill, and black urethane sealant to silence rattles. Transferred the stock emblem off the original grill. I love the look. heartshower

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48447125716_c4f076872b_k.jpg)

A bit wider shot -

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48447287877_1423e473f5_z.jpg)

I really like the look with the mirrors and bug spoiler. Looks factory, but totally different. Earlier look -

(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7829/46570724094_a5a8051347_h.jpg)

Next up is lowering springs, then air dam/bumper work. Would LOVE to figure out a front battery box.. lets peek under that front cover...
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on August 03, 2019, 02:41:22 pm: (Yes, this was done earlier before the grill was done)

Ah, the front bumper cover. Designed to have NOTHING to do style-wise with the front wheel arch flares. roflol It has always been loose, gonna see whats behind.

Removed BOTH pop rivets, and the cover came right off. :beg No wonder it was flopping around. It has the 4X4 look now! :cool

It is chrome, but unfortunately rust set in during the past decade or so. Note the 'wiggle' of white silicone... and paint all over the unprepped black filler piece. Nice over spray, paint guys... either 'paint it all or not at all'.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48447557977_4d07c6fd68_k.jpg)

Another angle. Note the 'Squirt' of white silicone goes all the way across, it must have been to try to keep the cover from flopping. See the shiny spot on the top center of the bumper, maybe 1/2" by 1 foot? I think that was the area of the stock attachment, along with TWO ( I tell ya...twice as good as one, right?) rivets. It was a piece of double sided tape. :-[ No wonder someone put the squirt of white silicone in..

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48447396216_656fff79e6_k.jpg)

Bumper cover inside view, showing the silicone 'fix' and the double sided tape. You can see the hole on the end that was for 1/2 of the rivets. I thought the square below the silicone was more double sided tape, but it was the part sticker. Not much tape there...

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48447395741_02deac8591_k.jpg)

Closeup showing all 11 inches of double sided tape. That, and two rivets, I think were all that held the cover on from the factory. Not sure if the white silicone was a QC thing at the factory, or added later on. Hard to say. No wonder it flopped around. (And yes, that is one old tape measure.)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48447558397_bc03e0fd6c_k.jpg)

Now it pops on and off. Easy to see where I might be modifying things... but I better NOT go anywhere like that. There is a note on the steering wheel to remind me... (nod)

I would like to get a frame mounted brace made for a REAL pushbar and airdam support.

Considering adding leveling jacks under there also. Time for some measuring and dreaming. :)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on August 04, 2019, 09:45:38 am: The chrome bumper is starting to grow on me. I have been looking at all sorts of aftermarket bumpers, and there isnt much for this odd duck. I guess street performing RV isnt a class...yet. :lol

Cleaned it off, and had tucked the cover under the front. We have had gusty showers coming through.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48452725337_0868c30d0a_k.jpg)

**************************************************************

The 2003(?) E550 bumper looks cool. I didnt even know there WAS a E550. Evidently pretty rare.

Wikipedia - ""For 2002, a heavy-duty E-550 variant was introduced. Sharing chassis components with the Super Duty, the E-550 was distinguished by a grille styled in line with Super Duty pickup trucks (with a three horizontal slots between two vertical openings). In addition, the heavier-duty front axle required the use of a larger front bumper and plastic fender flares (shared with the F-550 truck). Depending on trim, E-550s were fitted with either chrome grilles, chrome bumpers, and flush headlamps, or gray plastic grilles, bumpers, and sealed-beam headlamps. After the 2003 model year, the E-550 was discontinued.""

Read down in this link - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1369566-ford-e550-production-years.html Someone wants to beef up their C class to 19K GVWR ;)

I am not sure if the bumper is TOO wide... but would look SO factory awesome. The PC flares are pretty wide, so might mate up well. Looking for the bumper now, the flares are shared with the F550 of that era. The bumper appears to be unique... >(

(https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.ford-trucks.com-vbulletin/640x480/e550_cooler_4677234cd77705efdad1b807480d91d44b5b839b.jpg)

***********************************************************

For now, was doing a little bit of dreaming...and Mrs V said she liked the race look.. 2o2 I wont have it that long, the stock I had was 16". Prolly trim it to 12, with the drop it still gives 4" of clearance. Be easy to make support brackets that attach to the stock holes in the bumper. I will pursue this look for now, and keep looking for that other bumper.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48452725772_e47fbb2716_k.jpg)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Ron Dittmer on August 04, 2019, 07:43:27 pm: Volkemon,

Sorry my friend but you won't get my vote. I LOVE the front bumper cover that Phoenix installed on both your LBP rig and our FBP rig. It sets the van apart it from the typical stock look. Maybe if you didn't have it, you'd be thinking of getting one. roflol
(https://live.staticflickr.com/3495/3743987425_a84c364696_z.jpg)

I did wonder about the front bumper cover's solid oval flat blank space under the center cut-out, if cut-open carefully would it look good? Would it be rigid enough? Would it provide more air flow for radiator cooling? It is too low for direct cooling but maybe it would create a negative pressure air flow under the rig for more dog-house hot-air draw-down. Keeping in-mind that there has never any such over-heating concern with our bumper cover......just wondering if better air flow could be had to support the "More Is Better" principle.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/2432/3743989153_b6411a139a_z.jpg)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Ron Dittmer on August 04, 2019, 08:17:51 pm: BTW: The E550 front bumper appears to protrude much further out the sides to align with larger E550 fender flairs. Then you'll be replacing your fender flairs with E550s, then your wheels to match the fender flairs.....seemingly no end to that one.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on August 05, 2019, 05:39:01 am: Quote from: Ron Dittmer on August 04, 2019, 08:17:51 pm
BTW: The E550 front bumper appears to protrude much further out the sides to align with larger E550 fender flairs. Then you'll be replacing your fender flairs with E550s, then your wheels to match the fender flairs.....seemingly no end to that one.

(https://cdn1.commercialtrucktrader.com/v1/media/5d25bf5b77f6d62095002fc8.jpg?width=1024&height=768&quality=70&upsize=true)

And indeed, I finally found a 'head on' pic of the E550, and those flares stick out about 4" per side, compared to the ~2" of the flares that are on there. No biggie, as it looks like that bumper is made of 'Unobtanium' anyway... I have yet to find a listing for it 'in stock'. MANY just say that the E150-E550 share the same bumper. >(
*****************************************************************
Quote
I LOVE the front bumper cover that Phoenix installed on both your LBP rig and our FBP rig. It sets the van apart it from the typical stock look. Maybe if you didn't have it, you'd be thinking of getting one.

Maybe... but I have commented many times as to how the cover and flares do not go/flow together at all. I was pleasantly surprised to see how nice the transition from the stock bumper to the flare is....like the designer of the flare made them to compliment the stock bumper.

I think I am well away from 'the typical stock look' roflol And I had forgotten how prominent those mirrors were.. I do not miss that look.

LBP/FBP rig... I no understand. (WH) Google gave me pics of miniature tractor trailer rigs when I searched it. :lol REALLY.
https://www.wideopencountry.com/lil-big-rigs/

( EDIT*** finally came to me... Lower Body Paint / Full Body Paint. :-D )

(https://cdn0.wideopencountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/o1.jpg)

************************************************************************
RE: better radiator airflow with the bottom cut out - not easily. The 'in the bumper' opening is vented to the radiator, and there is duct work to make sure the air does not slip out the bottom, but does go through the radiator. This shrouding would also block off any air flow from that bottom slot to the radiator, unless you did some fabrication to change that. You could make ductwork for the front brake cooling... :cool

(And if opened, without ducts, it would generate POSITIVE pressure below, not negative. The 'air dam' on front does exactly that...dams the air and directs it around, creating a lower pressure area underneath. )

See what happens this week. The bumper I have on there, with the slots for the lower valence, may work very well for making air dam supports. And it is easily replaceable. Interesting though, there seems to be many 'grades' of chrome available, with the best being 'remanufactured stock'. I have a local chrome shop....and the 'medium' grade bumper was $275 plus shipping. Be interesting to see how much re-chroming the stock bumper locally is...
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Ron Dittmer on August 05, 2019, 03:31:13 pm: Quote from: Volkemon on August 05, 2019, 05:39:01 am
( EDIT*** finally came to me... Lower Body Paint / Full Body Paint. :-D )
2o2
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: CalCruiser on August 05, 2019, 05:48:26 pm: Stop googling pictures of Amazonian women before you get yourself busted haha.

Check out Sarona.com if you like the chrome bumper with chin spoiler look (no tall women)

Ordering parts from Ford without a VIN would be iffy. I recently replaced the faded oem grey plastic valance. You would need that too with some of the Sarona lip spoilers.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on August 06, 2019, 06:48:40 am: Quote from: CalCruiser on August 05, 2019, 05:48:26 pm
Stop googling pictures of Amazonian women before you get yourself busted haha.

Check out Sarona.com if you like the chrome bumper with chin spoiler look (no tall women)

Ordering parts from Ford without a VIN would be iffy. I recently replaced the faded oem grey plastic valance. You would need that too with some of the Sarona lip spoilers.

Whoa! tymote tymote tymote tymote tymote tymote tymote tymote NICE link!

This is pretty cool...and at $400 pretty reasonable. Little 'busy' style-wise for my taste, be ideal with the bottom vent deleted.

(http://www.sarona.com/media/images/1563%20ford%20econoline%20front%20add%20on_sarona_custom_spoiler_lip_van%20body%20kit_custom%20van_1.jpg)

LOVE the 'vintage' look on this one, dont like it lost the lower vent opening. and it seems the lower 1/2 is all you get, it says 'upper bumper trim not included' >(

(http://www.sarona.com/media/images/6320%20ford%20van%20econoline%20front%20bumper%20%20cover%20lip%20spoiler%20body%20kit%20running%20boards%20skirts%20accessories%20fog%20lights%20led%20%20new%20york%20installation%20paint%20auto.jpg)

************************************

And just to demonstrate 'Kitty got CLAWS' Mrs V has found her favorite. Sorta shifts it back over to the 'mad max' or 'WTF is that in the rear view mirror?!?!?' side... it is growing on me, however. $1300, but certainly robust. Shipping weight of 175#. (nod)

(https://assets.thiecommerce.com/production/5574-22-405-92/r/800x600/fff/80/5708ae0264a409e15df72960d29b0431.jpg)

(https://assets.thiecommerce.com/production/5574-22-405-92-2/r/800x600/fff/80/29ea9c76b6786972dc3498e6c37f4f96.jpg)

Its steel, so I could weld tabs on the bottom for air dam mounting. Still mulling it over... but it certainly would give it a 'Move or be moved' look when overtaking people. (exactly) I could see adding polished stainless panels to it, I really like the 'strip of chrome' look across the front. Cover up that IRON CROSS logo too.... kinda 'bad boy biker' looking there. :bolt..
I am glad I dont have the hood mounted emblem also... sorta gives it that 'third eye' look, :lol and it would be hidden behind the bug shield anyway. I do still have the tinted turn/markers, if I add other turn signals below the headlights I might rethink using them.

I am working on the air dam over stock chrome for now, see how that pans out. Have most of the parts on hand, and save me a grand and weight.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Ron Dittmer on August 07, 2019, 04:29:38 pm: Hey Randy,

Check out the hood and front bumper skin on this one, and the wheels too. I remember them back in the day when shopping around. New or used back then, they were untouchable for us with our budget. I remember back in 2006 or 2007 considering a 1999 model year with a rebuilt title that was still too expensive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFIwS18BWnw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFIwS18BWnw)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on August 08, 2019, 05:01:19 am: Thanks Ron!

Yes, that is one classy looking ride.

I have seen hoods available like that, but BOY are they proud of them. And with the bug shield, I am just going with the stock hood.

That is a nice cover, but I am leaning towards two choices now... stock bumper with airdam,. I love that 'strip of chrome look', it is a design feature that seems to be prominent in many new designs, and ties in the older theme also, so it helps a bit to 'update' the old girl. (nod)

The second choice is the Iron Cross bumper, with polished stainless panels on top for sparkle. Lowering the front 2" (which some would consider foolish....) it might be prudent to have a 'bulletproof' bumper setup. And if I can get the 'shiny strip' look incorporated with the panels, I will be happy with the look, It is definitely a distinct strong look, so I am giving it much thought before commiting. Not to mention it is the priciest option... :beg

Thanks for the idea, though, you and CalCruser have both been helpful in looking at different designs.

tymote :)(: tymote
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on October 17, 2019, 03:40:35 pm: OK, it is a little bit staged. ;)

There is a lump in the driveway under the RR wheel. Country life. I was moving the camper, and this was out of the way. I looked back and went heartshower and grabbed the camera.

New springs did lower it about 2 1/2" or so.

I will get a level pavement shot, but I was getting photos from the last gig and found this. I remember thinking it looked *so* cool.

Except for that front bumper/fender flare transition. :'( :'( Makes me want to poke my eyes out. roflol I will fix that... pretty sure I am keeping the PC cover on front and modifying it. Lowered down, it is MUCH better looking. I can see taking those top strakes on the bumper, and widening the ends to flow into the flares. Add an air dam and real foglights.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48915440697_3991ce991d_k.jpg)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: CalCruiser on October 17, 2019, 06:02:40 pm: Will you need to use leveling blocks on a level site ?
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on October 18, 2019, 06:59:32 am: Quote from: CalCruiser on October 17, 2019, 06:02:40 pm
Will you need to use leveling blocks on a level site ?

Not at all. ""There is a lump in the driveway under the RR wheel. "" Thats Right Rear... and it makes the front left lower. Staged pic.

If you look at the bug deflector on the front you can see the right side is higher. I had to move around a bit to get the right perspective to hide it the best. The off-vertical of the seam behind the cab also shows it. I dont do photoshop, so I have to use the old standby of perspective. (exactly)

Right now I use the 12 ton bottle jack and a jack stand to level it. I really want Hydraulic levelers, but have sorta hit a snag with rear mounting. I would LOVE to see a pic of a pre-2008 2350 rear jack setup. With all the tanks, seems to be no room for a left rear jack. Not within the 60" of the rear axle it wants.

About levelers... I had a pair of these givin to me. So glad i didnt buy them. Might work on dry pavement, but on sand/dirt/plywood they are nothing but 'ice skates' and slide around. DONT waste your money.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: CalCruiser on October 18, 2019, 12:40:51 pm: These work well. I evenly distribute them in the storage compartment to save space.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Leveling-Interlocking-Stacking-44515/dp/B00T36J7ZQ
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on October 19, 2019, 08:50:39 am: Quote from: CalCruiser on October 18, 2019, 12:40:51 pm
These work well. I evenly distribute them in the storage compartment to save space.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Leveling-Interlocking-Stacking-44515/dp/B00T36J7ZQ

Well hey! I had not seen that style, only square. The specs say 8.5 x 17 x 1 - so wide enough for duallies when sideways! Very cool. I can see getting a couple sets for short term parking. (Convenient, but adding ~33 pounds.. Jack and stand are on board already for tire emergencies )

Only issue for us with the blocks is the camper still rocks as you move, where with the jack stand there is a lot more stability. When we have the side tent on, the side to side rocking of the camper messes up the sealing to ground and camper. When we have the side tent on here in hot Florida, we open up the side door and bed window of the coach. A fan at the base of the slide out pushes air out the door, the bed window is the return, and air conditions the tent. At 94* day/80* night ambient, the side tent stayed very comfortable, and was where the grandson slept on a cot. During the day the cot folds and we use the area for dining, visiting, etc.

Raining here today, and it is needed. May still go out and get 'level ground' pics so people dont think I am a low rider member. :lol
(https://st.lowrider.com/uploads/sites/7/2008/05/0805_lrmp_03_z-editor_letter-lowrider_logo.jpg?interpolation=lanczos-none&fit=around|640:427)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Ron Dittmer on October 19, 2019, 12:14:38 pm: Quote from: Volkemon on October 17, 2019, 03:40:35 pm
Except for that front bumper/fender flare transition. :'( :'( Makes me want to poke my eyes out. roflol I will fix that... pretty sure I am keeping the PC cover on front and modifying it. Lowered down, it is MUCH better looking. I can see taking those top strakes on the bumper, and widening the ends to flow into the flares. Add an air dam and real foglights.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48915440697_3991ce991d_k.jpg)
I love your front bumper cover and fender flare....we have the same. I wouldn't change a thing, perfect as-is. I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/3495/3743987425_a84c364696_z.jpg)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Exterior Mirror Upgrade and other modifications I dream up. :P
Post by: Volkemon on October 19, 2019, 05:08:16 pm: Quote from: Ron Dittmer on October 19, 2019, 12:14:38 pm

I love your front bumper cover and fender flare....we have the same. I wouldn't change a thing, perfect as-is. I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

:)(: Amen to that. Said it myself on occasion.

And been told I need a cane and a seeing eye dog also.... roflol

I am still hoping your spring change is as rewarding as mine. Thanks again for sending me down that road. tymote
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on November 02, 2019, 10:06:05 am: Added a Sturgistay kit ! Going to a festival and going to be running the fridge and stove for a few days. Wanted to have the option of using commonly available tanks for some time now.

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Sturgi-Stay-Kit-Deluxe-p/66-7070.htm?gclid=CjwKCAjw0vTtBRBREiwA3URt7lWslBM-3OYnDbHg_NJTaXz1N_HWPq6Dzfg-7RiKnT-AH7qN-CfjCRoCpBoQAvD_BwE

I bought local for $83, worth it to keep a local 'brick and mortar' open. I filled all my tanks while there also.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49000310263_60be4422fe_k.jpg)

First step was removing the regulator cover.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49000309078_2da644276b_k.jpg)

The two pins in my hand were pushed up out of the cover from the bottom, using the socket extension. Most anything will do better than your fingertip. (nod)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49000308718_ad35512715_k.jpg)

Next I put the adapter inline with the regulator. There was enough free flexible line to allow this, but it was close.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49000308253_b0f993d021_k.jpg)

Next I had to make an adapter plate to allow the regulator cover to work in a new location.

Used a scrap piece of 16ga aluminum. put a bend into it for rigidity, and used butyl tape strips where the dissimilar metals meet. Keeps corrosion down, and rattles to a minimum.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49000307258_fed8b5f335_k.jpg)

Installed. One 1/4-20 bolt, washers and nylock nut.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49001052677_48355ed601_k.jpg)

Auxilary feed in the 'over the road' stowage. Velcro ties top and bottom keep it secure.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49000305933_c10576764b_k.jpg)

In use. (cheer)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49000847876_af27f5e4a6_k.jpg)

Those little black things dangling from the line are the Velcro ties.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on November 02, 2019, 10:36:08 am: Also got replacement marker lights for the rear. The upper right had taken in water. The dark part in the lens is water, it sloshes back and forth freely.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49000992796_0dbb62c1da_k.jpg)

I am holding the old light upside down, the rusty spot was the top screw. It was rusty, as white silicone it had been bedded in had pulled out. Water had been running down the wire, and had filled a wire nut with rust. Apparently it also allowed water down the wire and into the light.

I got exact replacements here - http://www.commandelectronics.com/shop/flange-mounted-sealed-led-clearance-light-side-marker-light

Ordered 6, one spare and to replace the other 13 year old lights, that are also 'sealed' with white silicone.. :-[

Butyl tape shown, same roll that helped in the last project. I already applied it to one light before photo time.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49001198702_e65ce3d79d_k.jpg)

Close up of the butyl tape cut into thirds, and applied to the flange of the light. The paper backing tears a bit, but still works well. It 'squooshed' out nicely in the one I installed already.
EDIT - YOU TAKE THE PAPER OFF COMPLETELY before installing the light. Forgot to mention that..... :lol

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49000450288_17940aefe3_k.jpg)

Have to go to Home depot for stainless screws for the rest... but got the inoperative one replaced. (cheer) And brass plugs.

Disconnecting the LP feed to the furnace also, it IS leaking. :beg The leak drained the onboard tank over the past few weeks, and has the hydrogen sulfide 'rotten eggs' smell at the furnace exhaust. It has been suspect for a while. We accidentally ran it once last winter , and ever since I got the hint of LP more than I care to outside. Doesnt set the alarm off, but I wonder if the feed valve didn't seat right and has a small continuous leak since.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on November 03, 2019, 08:29:49 am: Well Sugar Honey Iced Tea.... Found a little more than I bargained for.

The instructions say you can leave the aux feed hose on with a tank attached, and when 'BRIEFLY' disconnected to change tanks.

'Briefly' because the male POL fitting does not seal. >( It hisses gas. Gonna need a valve on there. For now the line is stowed away, and the stock plug put on. I really want to leave that line on, so I have one less thing stowed 'elsewhere', needing tools to install/remove it.

I did add a street 90 on the end of the regulator to reduce the curve in the discharge line. It was too sharp for my liking.

Used 3/8" Flare cap and plug to disconnect and seal the furnace line. Zip tied the disconnected line. After doing so, went around with Dawn dishsoap and water in a spray bottle to check for leaks.

:beg I found them. The new cap needed thread sealant before it would seal 'bubble tight'.

:-[ THE THREE CONNECTORS LEFT UNDERNEATH - FRIDGE, WATER HEATER AND STOVE ALL WERE LEAKING. :-[

From the 'main distribution pipe' fittings where they had the flare fiiting to go to 3/8 copper line. pyho
I had not touched any of these, and I suspect they have been leaking since my owning the camper. Gave them all a 1/3 - 3/4 (!) turn and things sealed up. Not sure if it was an original assembly fault, or loosened up over time (?!?) .

After finding that, i went to every single fitting and checked. The end at each appliance was leak free. 2o2 Unnerving to find the leaks underneath, however. Should you be creeping around under your rig, bring a soapy water spray and pressurize the LP system. Might be surprised!! I sure was.

With the furnace disconnected, the LP smell on the drivers side is gone. (cheer)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Ron Dittmer on November 03, 2019, 02:00:56 pm: Very interesting! Thanks for sharing all your repairs and improvements with all the "got-you's" along the way.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on November 12, 2019, 12:19:43 pm: UPDATE!

Well... I heartily recommend that people check the LP connections underneath their rig with soapy water in a spray bottle.

I just thought it took a lot of gas to run a fridge. The 11 gal tank would last maybe 5 days. Part of the reason we thought full hookup was needed to be out for more than a week, needing the electric for the fridge.

Not now! Ran the fridge for 5 days on a 5 gal propane tank, and it still feels 1/2 full . heartshower

REALLY need a valve for the fill. It is a royal PITA needing tools to pack up. Other than that, the external tank mod was a great purchase for us. Especially leading me to the gas leaks underneath. 2o2
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Ron Dittmer on November 13, 2019, 06:45:08 am: Quote from: Volkemon on November 12, 2019, 12:19:43 pm

I heartily recommend that people check the LP connections underneath their rig with soapy water in a spray bottle.

I just thought it took a lot of gas to run a fridge. The 11 gal tank would last maybe 5 days. Part of the reason we thought full hookup was needed to be out for more than a week, needing the electric for the fridge.

Not now! Ran the fridge for 5 days on a 5 gal propane tank, and it still feels 1/2 full.

Great advise to check the connections with soap.

In 2007, our maiden voyage with our brand new PC was a 3 week (23 day) vacation out west visiting national parks. We ran the fridge exclusively on propane. We also used the stove daily and the furnace one night. I relied on the propane meter on the kitchen hood which always said there was adequate propane. Our last day, 4 hours from home, we realized the fridge had shut down (out of propane) since our previous stop. So the fridge alone should last at least 3 weeks, maybe 4 weeks on a full PC tank.

I advise not to rely exclusively on the kitchen hood propane meter. The analog gauge on the tank is the better reading when you get below 50% usage on the kitchen meter.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: 2 Frazzled on November 14, 2019, 06:51:33 am: To clarify Ron's post: the idiot lights or kitchen meter or whatever you wish to call the panel where you check tanks is on the wing wall behind the driver seat. It shows propane, fresh water, black tank and grey tank. As Ron stated for the propane, these are not known to be accurate but they are handy for a quick check in non critical conditions.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on November 14, 2019, 07:25:07 am: Quote from: 2 Frazzled on November 14, 2019, 06:51:33 am
To clarify Ron's post: the idiot lights or kitchen meter or whatever you wish to call the panel where you check tanks is on the wing wall behind the driver seat.

On my 2006 2350, they are above the stove like Rons, in the vent hood. Ergo ""kitchen hood propane meter."" I never did check to see if it was accurate as far as full - 1/2 - Empty (thinking on it, might be 1/3 - 2/3 etc... whateveah...)

From a memory of installing a home unit for indoor LP tank meter reading, I seem to remember you can rotate the sending unit to calibrate to 'empty'...but that may have been specific to that unit. More research needed.

But yes, stinks to be out of LP and no way to fill it. That's what the Sturgistay kit solves. The exchange tanks are available in a amazing number of places. Pretty sure I am going to make a 2-tank holder for the trailer to carry my spares. But WOW... not such a pressing issue with the leaks solved. I never would have DREAMED of 3-4 weeks of fridge with the onboard tank before. Thanks for that input Ron!
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: mikeh on November 14, 2019, 11:46:00 am: Quote from: Volkemon on November 14, 2019, 07:25:07 am

But yes, stinks to be out of LP and no way to fill it. That's what the Sturgistay kit solves.

Might just note for the record that Phoenix offers this kit as a build option on new units--the kit they installed on mine was a Camco, but looks identical to the unit that Volkemon installed. I believe the installed Phoenix option was about $160 or so. It includes the long hose to feed a gas grill or other propane appliance and the short hose to feed from an auxiliary LP source to the RV. I haven't had occasion to use mine yet, but definitely wanted the capability.

Mike
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on November 14, 2019, 12:13:57 pm: Sweet! PC leads the way again.

I will post my valve mod to the kit. I wish to leave the supply hose installed on the camper, and also to change it to the 'handwheel' external tank connection.

(http://www.bigjohngrills.com/image?filename=Products/Gas%20Parts/302107.jpg&width=340&height=0)

I really want a 'tool free' external tank hookup. Having to carry 3 wrenches and remove the hose for travel is a no-go in my book. (7/16 and backing wrench to remove/install hose, 7/8 wrench to connect hose to external tank)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: RoadToNowhereRV on November 18, 2019, 01:05:53 pm: Thank you Volkemon, again! Just got done changing out the back marker lights. We had the same issue, all were filled with water. Thanks for the info on replacing them, ordered some extra as well just in case. tymote
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on November 18, 2019, 02:07:23 pm: Quote from: RoadToNowhereRV on November 18, 2019, 01:05:53 pm
Thank you Volkemon, again! Just got done changing out the back marker lights. We had the same issue, all were filled with water. Thanks for the info on replacing them, ordered some extra as well just in case. tymote

:)(: 2o2 :)(:

EDIT!! In the marker light instructions, I noted the paper on the butyl strip tore a little applying it to the light. I never mentioned that YOU TAKE THE PAPER OFF COMPLETELY before installing the light. (exactly) I could see how someone unfamiliar with the butyl tape might not know this...
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on December 05, 2019, 02:02:52 pm: Picking up our 'Towd in the Hole' tomorrow. It will be in the toy hauler trailer, hence the 'in the hole' addition. :lol

(https://images.craigslist.org/00z0z_gpSufsaZM6w_1200x900.jpg)

We both like this color, like an olive gunmetal grey, for the lack of a better description. Going to paint the trailer first, then the camper. Should make for a great looking setup.

I am going to remove the cutting board platform and shipping trunk (!) on the back when it gets home. Should look MUCH better.

Glad we have a direction in color now. We had too many choices before, this made a perfect reason to pick one.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: mikeh on December 05, 2019, 03:34:21 pm: WOW! NICE, Randy!

Mike
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on December 06, 2019, 11:07:05 am: Quote from: mikeh on December 05, 2019, 03:34:21 pm
WOW! NICE, Randy!

Mike

THANKS!
It was definitely a great find. Not only fits through the hauler door (measured...will find out for real when I pick it up today!) But when Mrs V saw the color, we looked at each other and said 'THAT is the perfect color for the camper! ' (cheer)

Looked up the seats, someone spent $1K on that setup. Thicker padding, armrests, etc. We are fortunate for that.

Will look really classy. Black windows, not sure about any accents. I do like the looks of the early PC's that have the horizontal stripe I have seen here. The 'whoops and swoops' never attracted me. I know they hide the lumps and bumps of the delaminating and bumpy sides of other makers, but with the fine job PC does I feel a large flat surface will look good.

We used to haul a golf cart, but this will allow us the benefit of a street legal tow'd, AND keep the trailer along as guest bedroom/watertight storage. We were looking at a manual Kia Soul (read about it here...THANKS to whoever that was....) but this is a much more versatile setup for our wants. Bike registration and insurance is a fraction of what the Soul's would have been. And no garage space needed for the trike when home, it will live in insulated, weatherproof comfort inside the trailer.

2 hrs to go before pickup... on pins and needles. CANT WAIT. (exactly)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: CalCruiser on December 06, 2019, 09:52:31 pm: Keep all that chrome looking pretty and a lock on the hitch coupler !!

Ford had a really nice color called Dark Shadow Gray Metallic that I used for my lower stripe. I looked at all the Audi grays but they were either too dark or too silver.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on December 08, 2019, 09:14:23 am: (https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49187392256_5505c4d943_h.jpg)

In the green grass, the color looks like a metallic gray. It is called 'Challenger Brown Metallic'.

To the right - 2350 and the Carrier. Just rolled the trike out to take pics and polish chrome.
A bit of history on the left - you can see 'version one' of camping setup. The yellow 1971 VW bus (waiting for love...) and the flat trailer (sides currently on for mulch hauling) that followed it is partly visible in the foreground. Getting bigger and better! :)(:
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on January 12, 2020, 06:27:03 am: Happy New Year to all!

A while back, I found the shower skylight cracked and leaking. So... put some mastic tape on it and waited for dry season.

We got 7+ inches in December. WOW. I did not use the camper all month.

Went into the bath for something, and found a suspicious puddle on the floor of the shower. It looks like it came from UNDER the trim.. :-[

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49371684648_841316253c_b.jpg)

Looked up, and figured it out.. :'( Evidently the mastic didnt seal?!? Been a 'bulletproof' fix until now. Good for YEARS (6 tested) outside to seal.

Water stains all the way over the sink, proving how tricky water leaks can travel.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49372343927_f414ba0b2c_b.jpg)

Looked good, but evidently the mastic does not seal to the old self leveling sealant. Looked good, but peels right off. Sugar Honey Iced Tea.

And yes, pollen has been HORRIBLE. Almost yellow up top!

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49372138141_ff1f62483f_b.jpg)

Opened up screw heads to remove, and found several rusted badly. Not sure how at this point, maybe they forgot butyl tape on the underside? The tops of the screw heads were sealed well.

Nope! Butyl tape sealed well underneath. LOTS of water drops.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49372343262_eec2a8691a_b.jpg)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49371683548_18d4976287_b.jpg)

Turns out it was traveling down the inside of the dome, and going into the plywood part of the roof laminate at the edges. :help For some time. I should be able to get a pic when I pull the inside 'bubble'. But we had sea showers threatening, so i had to seal this up ASAP.

I had expected the screws to be in the surround aluminum, but they were not! They fall outside the perimeter. The plywood was degraded back under the plastic top layer in a few spots to where the screws had little to bite into. Oh well, bless them all and seal it well! The entire dome was cracked at the bubble rising transition, the sealant and mastic are the only things holding it together. :beg

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49372137286_b157d14224_b.jpg)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49372342607_1b2045b29e_b.jpg)

Waterproof now!

So the roof is NOT rot proof, there is 1/4 plywood in the laminate. Both sides, I imagine. Will know for sure when I pull the inside bubble.

Have to cut all the carpet off the bath ceiling, and will likely refinish the whole bath in the 'pebbled plastic' sheet. The I can finally finish the floor.

The trike has been taking all my time, it had a MAJOR defect, but the parts are being shipped back to the factory for warranty repair as I type.

Motor Trike is a GREAT and honorable company. :)(:
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: nwcamper on February 06, 2020, 12:21:51 am: My mirrors are also yellowed or maybe they were yellow at birth. The ad you posted shows out of stock. I wonder if the function of mirrors is the same as when my 2006 comes with. If so, is it hard to paint them black or some other color? The yellowed ones work fine but I would like it to look nicer.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: CalCruiser on February 06, 2020, 04:20:00 am: I repainted the yellowed mirrors using white Plasti-Dip spray paint after a light sanding and wipe down with alcohol. If you want to just mask off the doors and windshield and spray the mirrors in place , any overspray will peel right off, unlike regular spray paint.

If you prefer to remove the mirrors before painting them it’s a fairly simple job. Pry off the round plastic cap on the end of the arm and loosen the Allen set screw. Pry off the square plastic insert on the bottom of the arm to expose the wiring harness connector and unplug it. Lift the mirror off the mount.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on February 06, 2020, 11:14:57 am: Quote from: nwcamper on February 06, 2020, 12:21:51 am
My mirrors are also yellowed or maybe they were yellow at birth. The ad you posted shows out of stock. I wonder if the function of mirrors is the same as when my 2006 comes with. If so, is it hard to paint them black or some other color? The yellowed ones work fine but I would like it to look nicer.

On mine all the functions except mirror heaters are there. Quick google shows them here - https://www.1aauto.com/ford-mirror-set/i/1amrp01962?f=1241341&y=2006&utm_campaign=gb_csv_br&utm_content=MRP&gclid=CjwKCAiAj-_xBRBjEiwAmRbqYrwgHL3knJuPi2JCAFBa-gu4IwV80kNQD929bYAvxNtjhDB5_PXVVhoCzM0QAvD_BwE

(https://cdn.1aauto.com/partimage/MRP/1AMRP01962/2236134c9afc4fe5957c884f0a6167ae_490.jpg)

They DO NOT offer the same visibility on the right hand side as the larger mirrors. I willingly accept that for the (IMO) better look.

I like the bottom element being separate, i keep it pointed low and it is GREAT for seeing the road lines and keeping centered in my lane.

I wish there was a convex glass available for the right top element, but I have yet to find one. That would put them back up 'on par' with the big mirrors that were on there.

I put one of these mirrors on it, works well. Gives a similar field of view as the big ones now.

https://www.zoro.com/velvac-stick-on-mirror-convex-723075/i/G2214107/feature-product?gclid=CjwKCAiAj-_xBRBjEiwAmRbqYtJioZGzFZhQyZMyVmQ7jfgoX9-Ja6BFcoqFRy2Q_U5ilYnA0PkBiBoC1_gQAvD_BwE

(https://www.zoro.com/static/cms/product/full/Z-1-3ufo5oy.JPG)

If I were to paint the 'stock' mirrors, it is easy enough to take them off the door. Inside panel has a screw holding it, then (4) 10mm head nuts. It allows you to see any corrosion behind the door mount as mine had hidden. (nod) Overspray would not be an issue either. 2o2
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on February 02, 2021, 07:44:48 pm: Been too long since I updated this thread. hithere

'Fixed' my exhaust. Had to have it exit out the back, and wanted it to have clearance for the wheelie bars. roflol

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50903333026_e45a747d6c_b.jpg)

Got a six foot piece bent, and a stainless tip to weld on. (exactly) New pipe and tip - 15 pounds. Removed elbow and tip - 5 pounds. Net gain of 10 pounds, adjust CCC accordingly.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50903451742_5912ae7c7b_b.jpg)

Detail showing length and angles. Flare to 2" in, center of bends at 24 and 36 inches. OAL 72". Shown backwards for confusion. :lol sorry.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50902627473_dbc15774c0_b.jpg)

Blends in well on the side view. ;)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50903452017_a719bcbfea_b.jpg)

Has plenty of clearance. 10 pounds 'well spent' IMO. :)(: We can now run the chassis motor when the side tent is on. (cheer) (cheer)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Ron Dittmer on February 02, 2021, 10:33:36 pm: Quote from: Volkemon on February 02, 2021, 07:44:48 pm
We can now run the chassis motor when the side tent is on.
Now "THAT" is a very good reason to relocate your exhaust pipe.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on March 07, 2021, 09:19:24 am: Well! Took care of the Motorhome exhaust routing, now for ours..... roflol

The toilet in the PC has never been a 'rock solid' throne. I had tightened up the mounting bolts, but the base itself never seemed too firm. But hey, beats a bush. But then things shifted, and flushes were difficult.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51012233071_b211416b66_b.jpg)

That wasnt good. Managed to pull the commode sideways enough to enable flushes, no leaks or anything evident. Appeared that the base may be a bit loose, hard to tell. Time to dive in!

**************************************************************

First obstacle was removing the top trim. Removed the commode first, and plugged the hole. All but one of the screws were easy to get out... the forward one by the door not so much. pyho It was assembled BEFORE installation, and the vice grips were the only way I could grab it. A spot of white paint on the screw head after re-assembly covers any scars you leave on the screw head.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011518853_8cc320e5dc_b.jpg)

**************************************************************

The base trim is two part. There is a sheet screwed on to the base, with another glued on top. I used a putty knife to remove the top layer, it came off easily.
NOTE: They used -8- stout #12 screws to mount the ring to the base. 2o2

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011518548_2be336a551_b.jpg)

************************************************************

Using the 'Socket drive and screw bit' assembly, most of the inner screws came off easily.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011518133_878547d47c_b.jpg)

**************************************************************

The ones in the rear corner were tighter. I did not have a 1/4 ratchet wrench, nor one of the 90* ratcheting screw driver in Phillips... so a 1/4 wrench and bit worked slow and steady. (cheer)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011518338_df841f7a01_b.jpg)
*************************************************************

I found THREE screws held the base to the floor. :beg ( But remember...there were 8 (!) big screws holding the ring to the base. :cool )

One in the rear -

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51012232041_339c9e081b_b.jpg)

And two in the front -

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011517738_92d8780b73_b.jpg)

And I could wiggle the base a bit, :help

*********************************************************

Originally the base was put on before the plumbing was installed, with the screws installed through the hole. I am NOT removing the pipe, so a combination of wobble extensions and a u-joint allowed removal.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51012326167_2cdcec7660_b.jpg)

**********************************************************

So what happened? Poor selection of screw. Looking at the picture below, the screw with the arrows was one of the three hold down screws. About 2 1/2 inches long. Holding a piece of 1/2 plywood against 3/4 plywood, with the threads going into foam after.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51012231626_6bf67b460a_b.jpg)

Looking closely, you can see a rusty area between the red and green arrows. That was where the 1/2" base plywood was moving around.

Now look at the area between the green and blue arrows. A bit darker, there was not movement of the wood next to it.

But note how much thread there is at the bottom... MAYBE 3 turns? Thats all that was anchored in the 3/4 floor wood. :-[ The remainder (still sorta shiny! ) was bedded in the foam, giving no support. This didnt secure the base to the floor well, and allowed movement.

Time for improvement!

*************************************************************************

First, I used a (slightly blurry :lol ) 1/4" drill to put a hole JUST in the base, not floor. I am using 1/4x2" lag bolts with fender washers for fastening.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011517343_3da59ce489_b.jpg)

Then I used a smaller bit, ~3/32, to make a pilot hole in the floor wood. Its only 1 1/2" to the foam, so no need to go deep.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011517153_ef736ddeac_b.jpg)

Why did I do so? I want the threads of the bolt to anchor to the floor wood. I want the washer to pinch the base wood to the floor wood. I do NOT want any space between. If the lag threads threaded into the base wood, they would hold a space between it and the floor and NOT allow the washer to clamp down. So thats why the bigger hole in the top piece.

*********************************************************************

The finished hold down repair. Solid as a ROCK now. What a good difference. (cheer)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51011516948_1822886aef_b.jpg)

Reassemble things, and now we are sitting pretty AND SOLID. :)(: I didnt even have to glue the top layer on the base, the trim holds it just fine.

*******************************************************************

Hope this is helpful to others that may need to do this repair. (exactly)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Ron Dittmer on March 07, 2021, 10:17:01 am: You did real good....better than new!
2o2

I am surprised that the commode platform is custom made like that, not something purchased from a supplier.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: 2 Lucky on March 07, 2021, 02:05:21 pm: Quote from: Ron Dittmer on March 07, 2021, 10:17:01 am
You did real good....better than new!
2o2

I am surprised that the commode platform is custom made like that, not something purchased from a supplier.
Might that base have been created by a prior owner or is that the way PC did it back then?
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Ron Dittmer on March 07, 2021, 06:36:47 pm: Quote from: 2 Lucky on March 07, 2021, 02:05:21 pm
Quote from: Ron Dittmer on March 07, 2021, 10:17:01 am
You did real good....better than new!
2o2

I am surprised that the commode platform is custom made like that, not something purchased from a supplier.
Might that base have been created by a prior owner or is that the way PC did it back then?
My 2007 2350 commode base is constructed exactly like his.

Can someone post a picture of their 2019-2021 2350 commode base?

Back in the day, Phoenix used to keep their employees busy during the slow season, making unique things of which it seems the commode base could be one of them.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on March 08, 2021, 07:40:34 am: Quote from: 2 Lucky on March 07, 2021, 02:05:21 pm
Quote from: Ron Dittmer on March 07, 2021, 10:17:01 am
You did real good....better than new!
2o2

I am surprised that the commode platform is custom made like that, not something purchased from a supplier.
Might that base have been created by a prior owner or is that the way PC did it back then?

I am of the opinion that it is 'Factory Stock'. Especially installed with only three incorrect length screws. roflol Checks out.

I had not considered commercial base risers, but the way the plumbing runs inside of it I think a commercial riser would not work. I did a QUICK search, and toilet risers (link to RV 2.5" rise - https://www.amazon.com/Thetford-24967-Toilet-Riser-White/dp/B0006H9364 ) would lift the toilet height, but not allow the offset needed in the plumbing. Note how much closer to the wall the pipe is at floor level than at commode level. This is necessary to sneak the pipe in INSIDE the frame rails to the back tank. (this is the best pic I got to show the offset)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51012232041_339c9e081b_b.jpg)

Of course, like the 'Roof Fin" (THANKS to RON D for the clarity there!) the base with the offset may be a '2350 only' type of thing. Be interesting to see if other models have it.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Ron Dittmer on March 08, 2021, 08:38:13 am: Good point Volkemon! That makes sense...."The Offset" is likely the reason for the custom made commode riser. When I open the toilet valve and look down, the drain pipe heads off at an angle, so much that I do not see down into the black tank. As I recall once looking up from the ground, the black tank is right there, just enough of a skew to look line-of-sight into the tank. It has been many years since I looked, I'll have to look again to confirm.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: 2 Frazzled on March 08, 2021, 09:51:18 am: The 2552 is a straight shot to the black tank - no riser BUT smaller grey tank, larger black as that's how they fit under the rig. Center bath models have larger grey, smaller black and a riser for the toilet due to where the tires are (I think).
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on May 07, 2021, 03:42:44 pm: Today's project... modify a shoe rack to be a shoe rack/80# water carrier.

Anchored to the floor with a strap (removed when parked) attached to two eye bolts that go through the floor. Each bolt has a working load of 275#, so I should be fine. 2o2

We go through about a gallon of potable water each day, and the jugs have always been a problem. And with me having size 14 shoes, they are also always in the way. roflol

So.... solved two problems. 2o2 We have an electric pump that will go into the 'working' jug when parked.

Slide out - (cheer)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51163283117_2e63e20ed8_k.jpg)

Slide in - :cool

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51164732554_cf67197b5a_k.jpg)

Top 'hold down' board is 3/4 plywood upholstered with black headliner cloth. Works VERY well to keep the jugs in place. :)(:

Rack and plywood weigh 7 pounds. Water weighs 80 pounds, and stays put and out of the way now. YAAAY!!! Happy Mrs V. heartshower
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Bangorbob on May 08, 2021, 10:42:42 am: Very nice indeed. I know it's was hard, long, tedious work to get to where you are. Again, thanks for posting and helping others like myself.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on November 23, 2021, 03:48:10 pm: Well, I really shouldn't be neglecting my own thread... .... (exactly)

Recap - go read here - https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=4601.msg41111#msg41111

TL/DR - I found my black tank odor was toilet leaking fumes. New toilet shopping ensued.

Came home with one of these -

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51701296425_ea88f94b22_o.jpg)

They were short staffed, with signage warning you. :beg We were extra nice to anyone in a CW shirt.

Bunch of salesmen in glass booths, NONE were even interested in doing anything.

Chris came in and REALLY saved the day.

List is $224, online price $199 for the toilet.

Our GoodSam club membership had expired in may, so it needed re-upping.

Somehow.... Chris worked it out so the final charge on my credit card was $170. :cool

(cheer) $170 (cheer)

Toilet and 1yr GoodSam membership renewal. WOW.

*****************************************************************************

Good news #1 - There is NOT a huge cavity in the shell to become 'Maggot Valhalla Deux'. The valve seals directly to pipe.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51700687088_f83841d865_o.jpg)

******************************************************************************

Good News #2 - The seat is bigger. The old seat is set behind the new. Gives an idea.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51700406766_1c82c4c70c_o.jpg)

And the curvature of the bowl downward in the front is much more abrupt, and it goes a bit deeper overall. No longer will my dangly bits be depth finders... woot

****************************************************************************************************

Good news #3 - It fits like it belongs. And looks FINE doing it. Real porcelain. NOW it is a motor HOME, not just a camper. :lol

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51701295890_af78bab5bb_o.jpg)

SORRY Honey...I shoulda swept up for the pic... Folks, last weeks festival was a week in a citrus grove, with copious rain the first two days. Things got muddy. I have not cleaned things out yet.

*****************************************************************************************************

Good news #4 - No wall clearance issues. Packing materials are still on in this pic. :-D

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51700406936_3e49f36441_o.jpg)

*********************************************************************************************

Good News #5! What a day!

The foot flush is easy to operate. My lovely model kindly demonstrates how even a petite lady can use it with no issues. (cheer)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51701081774_1d96df8f8f_o.jpg)

SO nice not to bend down over the toilet to flush. (exactly)

WHOA! Just previewed this one...and this forum does NOT like to post vertical pics! roflol Oh my... roflol She is proportioned NOTHING like that... but you get the idea, it is easily flushable. Even by mutants. :lol

**********************************************************************

Well....now the challenge. The fittings dont line up at all. The water line does come out at about the same spot as the toilet fitting. Very close. >(

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51701082259_f187330fd5_o.jpg)

Thats the one challenge, I cant complain too loudly! Off to go figger it out. I supoose a trip or three to Home depot is in my future... :)(:
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on November 24, 2021, 08:01:13 pm: Challenge overcome.

The sharkbite fittings ARE pricey, but deliver. Estimate at $10/per. Reusable, I was able to reposition the fittings and recut the PEX lines a few times. They rotate also, which allowed for assembly in tight quarters. My crimp tool is a PITA to use in tight places, and if you rotate the fittings after crimping, they are not guaranteed to be water tight. (nod) At least in my experience.

Cry once. :cool

I got a stainless steel street elbow for the back of the toilet from Home depot. I resurfaced the sealing face for the original 'thumbwheel' attachment, as it was a little rough. Put a 90* Sharkbite on the tube coming from the thumbwheel, with a piece of scrap PEX to mark where it fell. Marked the top or the pedestal with green sharpie.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51702865386_e199181b9f_o.jpg)

and look! My hole is half covered by the 2x4 support below. pyho

**********************************************************************************************************

Check it out. Here is my access hole, after using a 1" holesaw and chiseling out the offending pieces.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51702869096_1b7979882b_o.jpg)

Left a nice shelf for the sharkbite fitting. :-D

*************************************************************************************************************

Now here is a view of the fitting nestled in the pocket. You can see the tube coming 'towards' you, that connects to the original water line in the next pic.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51703541309_470163b699_o.jpg)

***************************************************************************************************************

Here you see the original water line with the band crimps, and the 90* sharkbite going to the tube referenced in the last pic. No tension in the line or corners, it all fit well after a few trim cut. LOVE these sharkbites.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51703753300_0e2cbb19b7_o.jpg)

***************************************************************************************************************

And the finished product! (cheer) :gang (cheer) Looks like nothing ever happened, unless you know the bath before.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51703753140_e80d2ac7b1_o.jpg)

and for c2006. the flooring and walls are holding up well.

That shower curtain rod is a game changer. Good purchase. See previous post. :lol

Next up is the fabled bathroom remodel. roflol

(cheer) :)(: :)(: :)(:
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on November 30, 2021, 08:48:01 pm: So Mrs V came home with new fixtures for the kitchen and bathroom sink. heartshower

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Sadira-4-in-Centerset-2-Handle-High-Arc-Bathroom-Faucet-in-Brushed-Nickel-HD67513W-6004/314938223

https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Glacier-Bay-Sadira-Single-Handle-Pull-Down-Sprayer-Kitchen-Faucet-with-TurboSpray-and-FastMount-in-Stainless-Steel-HD67726W-1508D2/313413331

and so I went installing. >:( The stainless finish looks close enough to the brushed nickel that they appear matched. (cheer)

Bathroom fixture could not have been easier. I did the job with no tools, and in 10 min sitting on the new commode. :lol

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716578308_77e6d2f93f_o.jpg)

SO nice! i had trouble even washing my hands with the original. Now it is So much easier. 2o2

***********************************************************************

Kitchen fixture was just a slight bit more work. I cut the original lines shorter, and added these on top to hook up to the new lines. -
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-x-3-8-in-O-D-Compression-Chrome-Plated-Brass-Quarter-Turn-Angle-Stop-Valve-23036-0000LF/202270612

Everything else was easy peasy after that. :-D The end pulls out and has a spray/stream switch, like the one we have at home.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716977614_9bf4cc7e03_o.jpg)

Folds out of the way completely when wanted, and DOESNT leave the handle in the way. Loading gear in and out of the camper, we have had 'events' in the past where a box bumped the handle, and turned on the water. >( Hearing the pump cycle was our heads up. Now everything is nice and out of the way.

*****************************************************************************************************

Anyone need parts for their original fixtures? I rebuilt the handle in the kitchen fixture a couple years ago, the bath fixture is all original. No issues with operation with either one, so if you need parts get back to me before Friday, AKA Trash Day. (exactly)

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716976524_b6af2d7026_o.jpg)

*****************************************************************************************************

Also had some major developments in kitchen storage. The space behind the cutting board/counter extension was a 'black hole' of stuff. Open in the back, things would fall into the 'nether regions' behind the drawers. AND... the support for the cutting board/counter extension was this one miserable bracket that had failed Mrs V enough the extension was untrustworthy and unused.

So I made a slide out bin.

Here it is retracted. I used the original 'pin lock' that came with the extension, and only moved the receiver to the bottom of the sliding bin. Locks in firmly.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51716976079_614acf1d25_o.jpg)

The raw edge of wood on top is the extension support, currently under construction. Today I fitted a leg that stores neatly below, and drops down to support the extension VERY nicely. Like put MY weight on it nicely. (exactly)

More pics as it gets completed. Tests are ongoing. It slides very well under load, and the extension folded down locks it in quite well for travel.

The slides I used (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-21-in-Full-Extension-Undermount-Soft-Close-Drawer-Slide-Set-1-Pair-2-Pieces-9236061/302992025) support 90#, so they should be plenty robust for the cabinet load.

Inside is fully carpeted, and has its own light. Using white and black vinyl for a finish material for now, as I have a lot of it. :cool

*************************************************************************************

Also 'boxed in' the small cabinet below the extension, and carpeted it. No more stuff sliding into the lower cabinet abyss. I NEVER understood why this area was left unfinished from the factory. I dug 4 boxes of tinfoil out of its depths. roflol Forgot to get a picture of it.

Until next update...CHEERS!

:)(:
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Ron Dittmer on November 30, 2021, 08:58:54 pm: Nice Faucets there Volkemon!
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: 2 Frazzled on December 01, 2021, 06:10:35 am: Don't add to the landfill. Donate to Goodwill or Habitat for Humanity. Either will resell in their stores. Habitat does more of the renovation stuff: appliances, whole cabinet sets, fixtures, plumbing supplies, etc. It's a good place to donate to when you are downsizing or renovating.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Ron Dittmer on December 01, 2021, 08:47:21 am: Volkemon, I advise to save the bath faucet for parts to support the inside and outside shower faucets.

If we were neighbors, I would take your kitchen faucet for the same reason.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on December 01, 2021, 11:28:06 am: Quote from: 2 Frazzled on December 01, 2021, 06:10:35 am
Don't add to the landfill. Donate to Goodwill or Habitat for Humanity. Either will resell in their stores. Habitat does more of the renovation stuff: appliances, whole cabinet sets, fixtures, plumbing supplies, etc. It's a good place to donate to when you are downsizing or renovating.

A noble thought, but Habitat states that -

""• Sinks w/faucets (less than 5 years old, new or gently used)
• Plumbing Parts (new pipes, fittings, etc.)""

So 15 year old RV fixtures are not desired.

Goodwill in Vero might take them, but their resale value is questionable. And its a 48 mile round trip for me. Were it an item of greater value, maybe!

Quote from: Ron Dittmer on December 01, 2021, 08:47:21 am
Volkemon, I advise to save the bath faucet for parts to support the inside and outside shower faucets.

If we were neighbors, I would take your kitchen faucet for the same reason.

Good point on the bath fixture being 'Supporting parts' for the shower and outside. Might toss that in the RV parts bin if there is room. The shower fixture is being replaced when we remodel also, so the offer may come up again.

The kitchen fixture is small enough to fit in a medium flat rate box, I do believe. 13x11x3 3/8 is box size........ Measured the fixture, looks like it will fit. (cheer)

It is 2021, and we now know EVERYONE is our 'neighbor', not just people we can see in yards around us. As a SMALL token of appreciation for the help and ideas you have given to me and this forum, if you PM your address to me I will gladly ship it to you.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Ron Dittmer on December 01, 2021, 02:04:52 pm: Quote from: Volkemon on December 01, 2021, 11:28:06 am
It is 2021, and we now know EVERYONE is our 'neighbor', not just people we can see in yards around us. As a SMALL token of appreciation for the help and ideas you have given to me and this forum, if you PM your address to me I will gladly ship it to you.
Volkemon, That is very kind of you but I won't be giving you my mailing address (for such a reason) because it's not worth shipping here. As was my implication...."living in your neighborhood" would have been different. But "Thank You" for your generosity.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on December 01, 2021, 04:58:08 pm: Yeah, when you cant even GIVE the parts to people who could use them.... roflol ....I wonder as to the value of spending the time and gas to donate them to a cause.

And for the record, your ideas and advice were worth WELL above the $15 it would have cost me to ship it to you. Thanks so much again.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Ron Dittmer on December 01, 2021, 05:17:45 pm: Quote from: Volkemon on December 01, 2021, 04:58:08 pm
And for the record, your ideas and advice were worth WELL above the $15 it would have cost me to ship it to you. Thanks so much again.
Thank you for your kind words. I try when and where applicable for our PC family.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on December 01, 2021, 05:23:26 pm: the rollout cabinet is done!

Has a bit of droop, but gravity....cant live without it.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718173156_7888bd8d62_o.jpg)

Mrs V is thrilled. heartshower She is VERY kitchen oriented, as we are both foodies. Having the extra bit of SOLID counter, and the easily accessible storage is a win-win in her (and my) book.

The access hole has 1/16th aluminum angle on it to be resistant of impacts that WILL occur. (exactly)

*************************************************************************

First design had a longer bottom leg, and required a lift of the cabinet to deploy the leg fully. More pleasing to the eye when up, but not so much for ease of deployment.

I didnt mind the droop, and making another countertop support.

Now the process for deployment is:

-lift countertop extension
-pull out cabinet.
- place top brace below edge of counter, against the pin, and you are done.

(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51718429538_15f86c3c24_o.jpg)

The leg drops to 'plumb', and any pressure on the countertop gets it seated through the pad.

Stowage is similar:

-- lift bottom leg to bottom of cabinet
- slide in cabinet
-Press countertop extension to seat the locking pin.

The top brace on the slide out box folds and stows without help.

The step in the top rear fits around the wood brace on the back wall, and the cabinet is less than an inch away from the wall. Left enough room on the rear side to allow for right angle plugs to still be fitted in the electrical outlet that is contained back there, should I find a need to use it. Have not yet....but it is still an option.

I am happy to find a storage solution that also allows for the additional (well supported!) counter space.

When we got it, the coach had another counter on the end that had mounting issues, and was removed for the time being. Now to locate that and reclaim more counter. (cheer)
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on January 03, 2022, 09:48:58 pm: Update!

Well, the kitchen counter/storage is Mrs V 'tested and approved'. 2o2 2o2

The commode is WORTH EVERY PENNY. Amazing how the little things mean so much. It is So much more comfortable in use. And NO MORE ODORS. (cheer) (cheer) (cheer)

Great NYE festival, hope all had a good New Year. Next festy in 3+ weeks! PC gonna get a workout. :)(:
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on August 02, 2024, 11:44:36 am: Necrobump!! roflol

In the summer doldrums for music.... its just too darn hot!!! That is what winter is for. :)

So.... The PC has a cover now!

Made a 16x48 pole barn, 23' high. 'legal' is 25 here for Agriculture buildings. Lots of recycled content kept things reasonable. Just a LOT of sweat!

Looking forward to getting full body paint on the PC someday..... and now have the place to do it. (cheer)

Pre-paint plans are to pull the side entrance door to address some rust issues.
Taking off the box awning, re-sealing awning mount/drain rail, and install new 14' awning.

SO nice not to worry about the weather now for the bigger projects.

STILL loving this PC. 2o2

:)(:

EDIT - I had several pictures, but only this one was small enough to fit standards here. :(
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: 2 Frazzled on August 03, 2024, 05:19:56 am: Wow, that is one impressive man cave. You could hold a small concert right in there. And so tall. I am duly impressed and hope you have many happy days (with a lot less sweat) in your new work space.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Ron Dittmer on August 03, 2024, 10:37:02 am: Quote from: 2 Frazzled on August 03, 2024, 05:19:56 am
Wow, that is one impressive man cave. You could hold a small concert right in there. And so tall. I am duly impressed and hope you have many happy days (with a lot less sweat) in your new work space.
(exactly)

It is good to see you on the forum again Volkemon! It seems like ages since I've seen you posting.
Title: Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification
Post by: Volkemon on August 31, 2024, 07:24:18 pm: Thanks for the kind words.

Been busy with video work and work here at the house.

Now with waterproof storage, I will be doing and posting more.

- The box awning will be replaced by a 14' awning with real support legs... (cheer) I know the job is going to involve removing the awning mount/drip rail, and probably taking off both 'seam' trims on the top. The screws holding both are rusting now after ~20 years.

- I am going to be pulling out the entrance door and frame. The frame has a rustout on the bottom, and the powder coat/paint is flaking off. The metal step support behind has suffered rust damage also from a previous (fixed) leak. The electric step mount is rusted on one side now, and the step is unusable without the 'helper' brace. :'(

After pulling the door, I plan on re-working the entry step to possibly allow access towards the front. The area under the floor (where the 'eurochair' once lived) forward of the entry steps is a void. Wasted space. When I did the floors inside, I installed bolts from the top to make a hanging battery support for my coach batteries. Move them lower and forward.

Also looking into installing a built in vacuum system also. Mrs V would LOVE it.

And your favorite.... THE SLIDE OUT!!! roflol It has a 2x2 steel bar built in the bottom. Steel, and looks like it never had paint or anything. Some serious rust, and degradation of the aluminum where it meets the steel. So far so good..... everything works fine.

But the slide also has the peeling paint/rusting issues. If it looks like the steel brace is beyond repair.... I may just go ahead and pull the slide, and rebuild a fixed wall. I am building a 5K# trolley hoist into the shop, so supporting it and pulling the slide out is GREATLY simplified. Given quite a bit of thought on the wall re-construction also, and even how to replicate the 'vacuumed sandwich' construction method for the plug piece. I will be SURE to get a weight of the slide...a long wondered on number. :lol

If the slide is still serviceable, at the very least I will get rid of that powered couch/bed. We have not put it out to a bed since Oct 2018 for my Grandson. Its heavy, and takes up TOO much room for our use. Will be a dinette, with bountiful storage.

Rear ladder, and top rail coming off also. The screws are still sealed over, but rusted out. The ladder is unusable anyway, and I have NEVER done anything with the top rail.

Once the bones are good, rework the front bumper cover/front flare transition, and probably 2 billion other small things, and FULL BODY PAINT!! (cheer) (cheer)

The road never ends. ;)

And as always, if you are near the space coast/treasure coast of FL.... :)(: