Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => Tips and Tricks => Topic started by: Ron Dittmer on April 29, 2015, 03:08:36 pm
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One of our two 12 volt batteries failed, same as with our first set. When one goes bad, acid boils over and makes a mess, and of coarse a serious loss of battery reserves. Good practice says to replace both batteries.
With all the discussion on the benefits of 6 volt batteries, I wanted to give them a try. I shopped around and found Sam's club to be a good source for 6 volt lead acid and AGM batteries by Duracell. The AGM is twice the cost that of lead acid at $180 per battery, but given my newly created limited access situation, I got the AGM batteries HERE (http://www.samsclub.com/sams/duracell-agm-golf-car-battery-group-size-gc2agm/prod3870119.ip?navAction=).
(http://scene7.samsclub.com/is/image/samsclub/0008399630049_A?wid=400&hei=400&fmt=jpg&qlt=80)
Given all 6 volt batteries are much taller, I had to replace my slide out battery tray with a flat sheet of metal to gain height inside the battery compartment. I found a nice piece of black painted metal being thrown away at work which had a couple of bends that benefited me. I bolted "L" bracket material from a home improvement store to cradle the batteries.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7703/16864339147_64a9ca39d0_z.jpg)
I mounted the brackets to the tray, then the tray to the battery compartment. I then removed the front bracket to slide in the two 6 volt batteries, connected them up nicely, then replaced the front bracket.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7656/16864342027_8f0c134d92_z.jpg)
Without being able to slide out the batteries, it was difficult to make the connections with a ratcheting box wrench. I used both original short battery cables in between the two batteries for a robust electrical interconnect. As I had originally, the red/+ terminal is on the right side, the black/- terminal on the left side. I used the screw terminals on the batteries to keep the large terminals free to use my secondary battery charger as I like to do at times for quick charging with the generator. Because of the limited access, checking water level is not practical which is why I selected the maintenance free AGM batteries. The next time I disconnect them is when they get replaced.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7696/17305883992_94b0e41c0b_z.jpg)
With the door closed, you can see the front most "L" bracket which is why I painted it black as not to stand out.
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7676/17119981508_8d3f33972c_z.jpg)
I am hopeful that two 6 volt batteries hooked up in series will perform better and last longer than two 12 volt batteries hooked up in parallel.
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Ron, I think I read somewhere that agm batteries take a little higher charging voltage.?.? My onboard charger charges at about 13.8v per my inverter display and my alternator puts out about 13.7/13.8v per my scangauge. If you haven't already done so, you may want to verify you are giving your new set the voltage they need for long life. Mark
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Hi Mark,
I charge the new AGMs with my stand-alone charger using the AGM setting. I also set the dip switches on my Tripp-Lite inverter for AGMs so I am all set with the change from lead acid to AGM.
On another forum, I was told that the Ford V10 alternator handles AGMs well. I will take note of your comment and will observe my Scan Gauge as well and see what my alternator is providing. Maybe the output varies pending usage like for example having the headlights on, the climate control working hard, things like that which can bring down the charging voltage.
One thing certain, I wouldn't want lead acid batteries because checking the fluid level would be quite inconvenient without a slide out battery tray. Batteries are awfully heavy, and then there is the matter of disconnecting and reconnecting.
I will monitor voltage readings. Hopefully all is well.
Thanks for giving me the "Head's Up".
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In preparation for my upcoming trip I find I have a weeping battery. Both batteries are just under a year old. But will replace them with sealed maintenance free Interstate batteries. We will be boo ndocking at Assategue Nat'l park so I need good batteries. I would think about going 6 volt but that would mean rebuilding the battery tray.
I will be interested in how they work for you Ron.
Bill g
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Bill,
I will report back after our planned 4 week voyage, but that will be later in the season.
I did talk with Kermit on how they accommodate the taller 6V batteries. His installs a taller frame/box which hangs lower so he can install the slide out tray. I did not want to invest in and fuss with to have my tray hanging lower so I went with the AGMs.
I really hope the AGM batteries I installed will work because they are the right choice otherwise. It would be very challenging for me to wrestle heavy, dirty, wet acid coated batteries on a regular basis.
BTW: Both times now with our old 12V batteries. Both sets, the boil-overs were caused by one battery not holding a charge. The charger does not know when to stop charging then so the boil-over happens. With that consideration, I went with the two 6Vs in hopes that the load is better distributed much like "D" cell batteries in a flashlight. Flashlight batteries all die at the same rate. Maybe the two 6V batteries will fail together at the same time.
I hate replacing two 12V batteries knowing one is still good. I hope to get more years and better performance from the pair of 6V AGMs. I just hope to overcome that 13.8 versus 14.4 charging thing.
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I have this same topic posted in rv.net HERE (http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28003607.cfm) of which a few people there are telling me that if I had bought two 12V AGM batteries, I would have technically benefitted the same, and not have needed to change the battery tray. They say when changing from 12V wet acid to 6V wet acid, that is where there is much to gain with battery performance. But switching from 12V wet acid to 12V AGM will benefit the same, technically speaking.
It could be these two sources of information are "opinions" or they could be dead right. I really don't know because this subject matter of floating and soaking voltages under hot and cold conditions is a bit confusing to me. I just wanted to share this with you to be as thorough as possible.
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Ron, what part does your truck's alternator play in charging the batteries while driving? Does it require a different alternator for the AGM battery or the golf cart battery?
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You ask a good question Tom.
A few people are commenting that the Ford-V10 engine alternator is questionable because the AGMs require 14.4 volts for charging, but the alternator fluctuates between 13.5 & 14.5 volts. I find it hard to believe that AGM batteries, whether 6V in series, or 12v in parallel, can't work. If that is the case, then I would think AGM batteries would not work in most other vehicles either.
But Continue Reading.
HERE (https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q150R1.pdf) is a Ford document that supports their claim over the lack of energy. I think the standard alternator back then was 115 amps, the document mentions a more powerful 135 amp alternator. Given the document identifies the 2004-2006 model years, I wonder which alternator I have in my 2007 and wonder about newer model years as well.
I just called the 877 number on the Ford document and left a recorded question regarding which alternator I have. I included my chassis VIN per their instruction. I am supposed to hear back in two days. Hopefully I will actually get to talk with someone so I can ask the question if the more powerful 135 amp alternator became a standard in the RV chassis made after 2006. Maybe AGM batteries work properly only with the more powerful 135 amp alternator which is why everyone has conflicting experiences with AGM batteries.
It appears that if I have the lesser alternator and want to upgrade to the 135 amp alternator, there is some special ECM programming required as defined HERE (https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q-160.pdf). It may be a dealer installed operation, more than simply swapping alternators. I hope I already have the 135 amp alternator.
I will report back when I hear back from Ford.
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6 volt batteries have thicker plates than most/all 12 volts so not understanding the claim for equivalency. You should get better deep cycle performance irrespective of AGM or flooded cell.
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My friend the Ford mechanic/technician stated the following to me.
"The data available to me does not state amperage, only that it left the factory with heavy duty alt #6C2Z-10346-BA. that changes to a re-manufactured part still available thru ford. 6C2Z-10V346-BBRM1 @ $133.00 + 75 CORE. 2 YR WARRANTY."
I hoped to get the amperage from him, oh well. So I called my local Ford dealer parts department about that alternator part number. He asked me for my VIN number, then told me my chassis is equipped with a heavy duty 115 AMP alternator..
I am just going to let go of my alternator concerns, monitor my Scan Gauge for voltage output, and learn what I can from it. I am more comfortable with my decision to go with a pair of 6V AGM batteries.
And Randall, Thanks for that bit of information.
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Well.....
We just returned from a 26 day trip where we never plugged into a 110v power source. Battery charging occurred only from either the V10 engine alternator while driving, or running the generator with our Black & Decker battery charger. It is difficult to conclude the new pair of AGM 6v batteries performed so much better than conventional 12v but I can say all went extremely well. It appeared the V10 alternator provides adequate charging so I am putting that concern to rest.
We did change some electricals and also some habits which I am sure helped. I had converted all lighting from florescent to LED, and ran the generator instead of the inverter to brew coffee. I also recharged the batteries via the generator with B&D charger, the morning after watching a movie on the TV. We basically recharged after knowingly stressing the batteries. I also appreciated never needing to check battery fluid levels again, and never dealing with an acid boil-over.
Even with this positive experience, I plan to install a battery voltage meter or something to monitor battery health better because the green/yellow/red meter on my 2007 model year control panel isn't saying enough for me. In years past when that meter went from green to yellow, the batteries were already discharged to the point of concern.
Can anyone recommend a decent battery monitor?
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Ron and others, thought I would share with everyone my boondocking and battery charging management setup on our PC 2350.
First of all, we seldom ever go where there are hookups. The exception being on the way to or from somewhere, but we usually stay in National Forest, BLM and Corp of Engineers campgrounds. Now, a few of them have some services but not most. In the western NFs, you are generally welcome to "drip your gray". This entire area is obviously suffering a long term drought and it just makes sense to return to the earth the gray water, at least to the campers that love the western forests and the rangers that run them.
We only run the genset to power the AC or the microconvection oven.
So, for boondocking and power management, here is our stuff.
For battery management we have two little DROK digital voltmeters. They are cheap and work fine for me. I have checked them against a really good test meter and they are accurate.
Several pages of these in different sizes, colors of display and some are weather resistant to use outside. I have one mounted on a panel I constructed attached to the front of the battery compartment pull out.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_1?rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Adigital+dc+volt+meters+drok&keywords=digital+dc+volt+meters+drok&ie=UTF8&qid=1442506939&spIA=B00NWGZ3A6,B00NWGZ4XC,B00KHP6EIK,B00NW62L88
We recharge our batteries with a couple of these which I mounted to our roof using 3M high capacity exterior double sided tape.
http://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Watts-Volts-Lightweight-Monocrystalline/dp/B00IK19VF6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1442507021&sr=8-2&keywords=renogy+flexible+solar+panel
Next, we haul water from the campground spigot or hand pump with one of these. We store it, by the way, when traveling in a plastic garbage sack and put it in the shower. The sack protects the floor and walls of the shower.
http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Hydroller-Wheeled-Container/dp/B001QC78GK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1442507096&sr=8-1&keywords=reliance+hydroller+wheeled+water+container+8+gallon+9600-03
Over the decades of rving, I have rigged several ways to pump water up into an rv tank from a container. This is the best rig I have found. Just buy a few feet of clear plastic tubing at HD or Lowes, stick it on the end of the pump and put the other end into the fill on the PC. Drop the pump into the hydroroller, hook up to the batteries in the pull out compartment and pump 8 gallons in a couple of minutes.
http://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Diesel-Transfer-Submersible-Stainless/dp/B00F2LANF4/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1442507205&sr=8-23&keywords=12volt+pump&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011
Our 2350 is absolutely perfect for our boondocking. We can get into places any unit much larger simply would find difficult. We spent a month in the Sangre de Christi mountains of Northern New Mexico this summer in national forest campgrounds and never missed hookups. The 2350 has an extraordinary large black tank for a small unit and two people can easily spend about two weeks on one black tank. We dumped only once in that four weeks, and of course at the end of the time period before we started home.
Paul
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Interesting!
After some discussion and ideas given me on another forum, I decided to buy one of these volt meters with plans to install it in the stove hood control panel to be along side our other monitors. It cost just $6.15 with a green display. I only need to figure out how to remove the black front panel from the hood for the installation. It appears to snap off but I didn't want to force anything. I may end up calling Kermit for I don't recall having any paperwork on the hood. I will look through everything a second time.
I am told the general rule is not to let the batteries discharge below 12.1 to 12.2 volts. That is easy enough for me to understand.
This Small Volt Meter, is about 1-3/8" diameter. I will hook it up to a hot & ground wire behind the panel which should be easy enough.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTg1WDU4NQ==/z/hd4AAOSw~gRVzU9Y/$_12.JPG)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTg1WDU4NQ==/z/Bw4AAOSwu4BVzU8~/$_12.JPG)
Our 2007 Model 2350 Control Panel Is Over The Stove (Under The Microwave) As Shown Here.
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8532/8462452913_d6c8595a5c_c.jpg)
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Here is the chart I follow. It has been around a long time and I find it useful:
Voltage and State of Charge percentages
12.6+ volts
100%
12.5 volts
90%
12.42 volts
80%
12.32 volts
70%
12.20 volts
60%
12.06 volts
50%
11.9 volts
40%
11.75 volts
30%
11.58 volts
20%
11.31 volts
10%
10.5 volts
0%
This comes from this website http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm and I think that website has some really good information. It has been around for a long time, but so have volts and amps ;)
Paul
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My research continues....
Last night I looked deeper into what it will take to install a volt meter on my monitor panel. I found something interesting that has me thinking to seek a rectangular meter instead of a round one to mount in the blank space to the right.
Here is my panel-in-stove-hood.
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5640/20966357074_44ebb463f7_c.jpg)
Here is the back side where I plan to mount the meter. Removing the panel has a specific process described on a sticker located on the underside of the hood. If you have this hood and want to remove the front panel, "FOLLOW" that process or you will break the front panel. Apparently the hood was designed to monitor more things, or possibly offer a clock and cooking timer. I researched the supplier but did not find any information on additional features. I had hoped to find a snap-in volt meter, but came up empty.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/653/21597967351_1fd28f52e9_c.jpg)
I am thinking of installing THIS (http://www.ebay.com/itm/251697941456?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2650&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) 3-function unit that displays the voltage, the time, and the temperature (wherever the probe is located away from the stove area). I will need to install a couple of different style buttons that are easily mounted into the panel, maybe snap into those rectangular holes.
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That would be a great idea, Ron. I envy you with the location you have for your panel. Ours (2013 2350) is located behind the driver's seat and is a pain to lean down and read if the light is not just right. Probably, the hood has changed over the years not allowing such an arrangement. We stack and store a lot of stuff between the driver's seat and the couch and that makes it sometimes a little more difficult to monitor the monitors. Not a big deal, but still having the info out in the middle of the coach is much better IMO.
By the way, you might consider also a wireless thermometer in your refrig with the monitor on that panel. We really love to be cognizant of that temp at all times without opening the door.
Paul
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I envy you with the location you have for your panel. Ours (2013 2350) is located behind the driver's seat and is a pain to lean down and read if the light is not just right. Paul
Hi Paul,
Like you say, our monitor panel is in a very convenient location. But with all things "RV" there are trade-offs. Our venting hood with monitor panel places the microwave oven so very high. My wife would say it is much better to have a microwave oven/vented hood combo placed that much lower, rather than our current configuration. At 5'-2", she has a hard time with the height of our microwave, placing & removing food, and monitoring the cooking process. It doesn't help that we have vents between the microwave and the hood. That makes her situation worse yet. I don't want to mess with the venting around the microwave oven for I am sure it is needed when using the convection oven setting.
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Ron, our Xantrex inverter on the wing behind the drivers seat tell me the volt when I turn it on. Don't you have one of these also?
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Ron, our Xantrex inverter on the wing behind the drivers seat tell me the volt when I turn it on. Don't you have one of these also?
No Tom, we don't. Our older Tripp-Lite's switch panel under the fridge has no meter reading. Just LEDs and a switch for "Auto Invert" & "Line Charge Only".
Here is a picture of our Tripp-Lite control panel, the panel to the right. You can see the green/yellow/red LEDs along each side. The lights work as follows.
- Green = Good
- Green/Yellow = Not As Good (in reality, the batteries are already severely drained)
- Yellow - Fair (in reality you waited too long)
- Yellow/Red = About To Die (you'll need days on a slow charge to bring them back to a usable but permanently weaker condition)
- Red = You Killed The Batteries (it's over, just buy new batteries)
This is not a good method for monitoring the health of our batteries. On top of that, I only turn on the inverter when we want to use inverted 110v which is not very often. So this monitor is nearly useless to us, hence I want to install a voltmeter that is always on and in plain sight.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8380/8462450425_aee03897bd_c.jpg)
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Oh.
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I'm clueless about these things but would it make sense to mount a new battery monitor in the same place as the old one? My brain says all the wires are already there, they just don't feed to a digital display. Even if the wires aren't there, you could run them and just pull out the old monitor since it is useless anyhow. (Though the height might be an issue).
I know you'd find a use for all those rectangles over the stove. They will call to you until you use every one.
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I'm clueless about these things but would it make sense to mount a new battery monitor in the same place as the old one? My brain says all the wires are already there, they just don't feed to a digital display. Even if the wires aren't there, you could run them and just pull out the old monitor since it is useless anyhow. (Though the height might be an issue).
I know you'd find a use for all those rectangles over the stove. They will call to you until you use every one.
The easiest, cleanest, and least risk installation will be to leave the existing monitoring alone. I plan to simply utilize the blanks on the right side of the panel. 12V power will be tapped from the existing volt meter. In the end I will have two working volt meters.
1) the original segmented LED volt meter
2) a digital volt meter
I did buy the 3 function digital meter and supporting switches on ebay for a grand total of $19.44 including shipping. The plan is to have it appear as an original feature, very nice & professional. It does seem to be a fairly simple project to do.
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I received the 3-function display (volts, temp, time) only to learn that I ordered the wrong one :'( I bought the one that reads out in celsius and has a 24 hour clock....all my own doing, a senior moment no doubt. I reordered in fahrenheit and 12 hour clock, waiting once again. Oh well. At least I got to study the unit closely and play with it a bit. The right unit will be a nice & useful enhancement to our control panel.
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I got the right one and installed it. CLICK HERE (http://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php/topic,2234.0.html) for the details. It turned out great.
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It has been a good long while since I followed up on this.
The two Sam's Club Duracel 6V AGM batteries in the house are serving us extremely well with never a mess of checking acid levels and cleaning up boil-overs & battery terminals. With the house-battery volt meter installed in my kitchen hood monitor panel, and a second volt meter plugged into my Ford V10 chassis cigarette lighter outlet in the dash, I monitor both house and engine battery voltages all the time, and they tell me everything is doing quite well.
I found it odd that both volt meters read the same all the time when the engine is running, just shy of 14.0 volts.....~13.8v, and it never seems to change whether driving on the open road or idling. Apparently the Ford V10's alternator/regulator just pumps out a consistent ~13.8 volts regardless of load or lack there-of.
Just after the V10 engine is turned off, all batteries quickly settle to around 12.7 volts unless a load is present...something turned on, especially popular with the house batteries where it could drop to around 12.5 volts.
The Ford V10 chassis battery is easy to ignore since it doesn't get used much when parked. I never let the house battery voltage drop below 12.1 volts. I'll charge them up with my Black & Decker charger running off the generator for a quick efficient recovery.
The two volt meters have taught me a lot about the health and care of our batteries. I am so glad I have them.
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Thanks for your diligence on following up the old post. Great information.
Would replacing my single 12 volt house battery with an AGM be beneficial ?
Where did you find the plug-in 12 volt meter ?
jim
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With just one 12V house battery in an easy-inspect roll-out tray, I think the cost for an AGM is not worth the expense. As well, I am not convinced that if you have two 12V house batteries, the cost for AGMs is worth it. To me, the AGMs are ideal when you can't easily check fluid levels like I now have with my current 6V conversion.
My experience with two 12Vs is that they drain out of sync with each other. One drains much faster than the other, then boil-overs happen when charging. With all that going wrong, your power reserves suffer, and battery life suffers too. I am no expert, but that has been my experience with two pairs of 12V batteries, and one pair of 6Vs.
I look at it this way. Every battery operated toy, flashlight, or other electronic devise using rechargeable or disposable batteries, the maker stacks the batteries (in series) like the two 6Vs are in my PC for "best energy utilization". With 6V AGMs, I surely don't have any boil-overs. I wonder if PC owners with wet acid 6V batteries deal with boil-overs.
Oh, I forgot about the cigarette lighter plug-in volt meter. I bought mine on Ebay for a couple dollars. They come in many different color read-outs. I bought green to match my dashboard color. HERE (http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Display-Mini-12V-24V-DC-Digital-Car-Voltmeter-Voltage-Electric-Gauge-Meter-/322389417772?hash=item4b0fe81f2c:g:V2EAAOSwjDZYeNHF) is a blue/red for $1.83 with free shipping.
HERE (http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12v-24v-Digital-Voltage-Meter-Gauge-Auto-Car-Voltmeter-Cigarette-Accessories-/191904693535?var=490963518389&hash=item2cae693d1f:g:jDIAAOSw3YNXbJiD) is my green one for $5.35 with free shipping. Buy two, plug one in the dash up front, the other in your 12V socket to the right of your main TV and you're all set.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/jDIAAOSw3YNXbJiD/s-l500.jpg)
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVWDU0/ref=mp_s_a_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1487013739&sr=8-22&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12+v+volt+meter+cigarette+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=4105fQmT1vL&ref=plSrch
This is an easy to use meter that checks battery voltage. It has a cigarette lighter style plug thus allowing it to be used to check chassis battery voltage by plugging into the the center console receptacle . It can also measure coach battery voltage by plugging into a coach receptacle. I have also used it in our car to check on battery voltage and alternator charging voltage.
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Thanks Ron and Fandj, another good tool to have !
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Today on another forum, I explained my experience with two sets of 12V batteries, and the benefits converting to two 6V batteries. It seemed a good idea to share it on this thread.
Ron
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We had two sets of 12V batteries prior to the pair of 6V batteries we have now. The two 6V batteries perform much MUCH better. Unlike 12V batteries wired in parallel, the 6Vs drain in unison and charge in unison which provide more extended 12V power than two 12Vs.
Our 12V batteries wired properly for power balance, one 12V battery always drained faster than the other. When charging them, one would always get over-charged while the other never got fully charged. Eventually one battery becomes ill from it all, causing us to replace the batteries prematurely.
Our 12V batteries, year #1 was always good. Year #2 was okay. Year #3 was rocky. Once we tried year #4. As Trump would say, year #4 was "A Disaster". With our 6V batteries, they are AGM batteries selected for their maintenance-free benefit, we finished year #3 and they performed like year #1. They do so well that I leave them wired up to our PC off season so I have interior lighting. When I power-up, my power panel display shows their voltage around 12.6V +/- 0.1V which is right where they should be. I do put them on a secondary Black & Decker charger over-night about once every 2 to 3 months for maintenance.
I bought our Duracaell 6V AGM batteries at Costco. You can also get standard lead acid there. The AGMs cost about 2/3 more but well worth it for the maintenance-free, boil-over-free benefit.
If switching from 12V to 6V batteries, make sure your battery compartment can handle their increased height. 6V batteries are a few inches taller. I had to modify our battery compartment to accommodate for the extra height. AGM batteries will require chargers with an AGM setting. So if switching to AGM technology, make sure your RV charger has an AGM setting. I think the AGM setting pumps out a slightly higher voltage. Our 2007 Tripp-Lite inverter has an AGM setting via changing jumpers per the owners manual.
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One more year later with another update.
The Sam's Club 6V AGM batteries I installed in April 2015 continue to perform like new. This has been one of my best modifications. I won't ever go back to 12V or wet acid again. Not just maintenance free and performing better, but also projected to be cheaper in the long run.
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Reporting in 4.5 years since the 6V AGM installation and all continues to be great. The pair of 6V AGM batteries from Sam's Club still perform like new. They also hold their charge so much better in times of storage. Given our previous two pairs of 12V lead acid batteries provided only 2 good years each, we are past the break-even point in the investment.
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It is now July 10, 2020, 5 years and 3 months since I installed the AGM batteries. They are still in fine condition, but we did not use the batteries much at all given our PC has been parked for 2 years. Our vacations for 2018 and 2019 were overseas. We want to take our PC out this year but COVID19 has the places we want to visit, highly restricted. So just maybe our PC will sit for 3 years. :'( This year will be a staycation year.
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I recently converted my wet batteries to AGM. I like to keep my RV plugged in during storage. I’ve read different ideas on this issue, so is this bad for my AGM’s or is there something different I should try?
Karla
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I recently converted my wet batteries to AGM. I like to keep my RV plugged in during storage. I’ve read different ideas on this issue, so is this bad for my AGM’s or is there something different I should try?
Karla
Depends on the charger, if it's suitable for AGM batteries or not. If your 2015 model 2552 is like my 2015 model 2551,then no, the original charger is not ideal for that. I will have to dig into the manual, but as it came from the factory... It was designed for wet cells, so among other things it's charging voltage is 13.8v while AGM batteries like a 14.2v charger. I do not know if the original charger can be set for long term charging of AGM batteries. I will look tommorow afternoon and reply again.
I have Lifeline brand AGM batteries in my 2551 but during storage, I disconnect the negative cable and the batteries are just fine after winter storage.
Don
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I recently converted my wet batteries to AGM. I like to keep my RV plugged in during storage. I’ve read different ideas on this issue, so is this bad for my AGM’s or is there something different I should try?
Karla
Depends on the charger, if it's suitable for AGM batteries or not. If your 2015 model 2552 is like my 2015 model 2551,then no, the original charger is not ideal for that. I will have to dig into the manual, but as it came from the factory... It was designed for wet cells, so among other things it's charging voltage is 13.8v while AGM batteries like a 14.2v charger. I do not know if the original charger can be set for long term charging of AGM batteries. I will look tommorow afternoon and reply again.
I have Lifeline brand AGM batteries in my 2551 but during storage, I disconnect the negative cable and the batteries are just fine after winter storage.
Don
I imagine you could change the setting on your built-in Phoenix-supplied charger, from wet acid, to AGM. My old Tripp-Lite inverter/charger Phoenix installed back in 2007, has a setting for AGM batteries, set so for my 6V-AGMs installed 5 years ago.
I endorse Don's idea of disconnecting the batteries from the house. I don't, and I also don't keep the house plugged into shore power. I leave the batteries connected only because I go into our PC now and then (it's in our attached garage) and it's nice to turn on the lights. As a result, I charge our AGM batteries maybe every other month with an external charger.
Whether storing in an indoor or outdoor remote location, I would charge up the batteries to full, then disconnect them during the storage period as long as the storage period does not include -10 degrees fahrenheit temperature conditions, or worse. If temps get extremely cold, a battery tender would be good setup. The alternative would be to bring the batteries indoors.
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On my 2015 model 2551it came with a Parallax 5300 series converter and panel. I do not have a manual for it but a web search for a manual found one and it shows NO ability to set it for battery type.
Don
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Thanks for taking the time to help me out! I’ll look at my equipment. Would you suggest II upgrade my charger for AGM?
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Thanks for taking the time to help me out! I’ll look at my equipment. Would you suggest II upgrade my charger for AGM?
Depends on your use.
I only stay at on spot for 3 or 4 days and then move on. The Ford alternator puts out a 14.2v charge and that also charges the coach batteries to 14.2v. So I am not concerned about the converter/charger topping out at 13.8 or 13.9volts. Within a few days the alternator will handle things.
If you rarely use your coach batteries and/or stay at one place for longer times with shore power I might consider spending the money or a new converter.
For myself, and my uses, I am happy with it as-is.
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I love to read about how people put their personal touches on their units. I went from 2 12v to 1 12v. My problem was the tray rollers were broke when I got the unit (used). I tried cheap rollers-nah, didn't last. Ron or anyone. Do you still have the original tray rollers? If you do, would you be willing to depart with them?
Thanks, Bob
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Bob,
Take the original rollers drawer slides off your tray and go to your local home improvement center to match them up. They sell full extension ball bearing drawer slides that are rated to hold a hundred pounds. They are sold in lengths from 10" to 24".
We have Menards in our area and that's where I find them easy. In the store, they are with the kitchen cabinet hardware with handles, knobs, and hinges. CLICK HERE (https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/cabinet-hardware/drawer-slides/knape-vogt-full-extension-ball-bearing-drawer-slide/8400p-22/hardware/cabinet-hardware/drawer-slides/knape-vogt-full-extension-ball-bearing-drawer-slide/8400p-12/hardware/cabinet-hardware/drawer-slides/knape-vogt-full-extension-ball-bearing-drawer-slide/8400p-14/p-1444436970826.htm) to see them on their website and select the length you need which is likely 14". If not a Menards near you, try Home Depot, Lowes, and others. These places are not much different in what they offer.
My new and used 12V trays, the drawer slides measure 14". I could part with the used one for sure. If your tray itself is all messed up, consider buying a new one from Phoenix or the manufacture of the tray.
Here are my new and used trays. Since changing to 6V AGMs, I have not needed such a tray.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50551381672_07966e3ae7_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50550521273_262593d2ed_z.jpg)
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My tray is in excellent shape. I did get some draw slides at home depot. Not heavy duty enough. Broke pretty quick. Batteries are just heavy. I threw the original heavy duty glides away and was looking for just the glides that will hold more than a bowl of jello.
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Call that number on the tag (574) 295-0234. Maybe they will ship you a new pair fairly cheap.