Idiot Light Issues

I recently experienced a situation where the Idiot / Check Engine light signaled an undefined problem.  Without detailed information, I had no idea what caused the alarm.  Without a cross-reference device, and more than a hundred miles from the nearest services, I was uncertain about proceeding

I am now in the market for a OBD2 Scan Tool to travel with and be able to decode the Check Engine Light for what's wrong.  Instead of blindly continuing down the road . 

What do others use?  Prices range from $20 thru $500

The most common cause for the check engine light to come on is the gas cap has become loose.  If it is loose, tighten it and allow a number of miles for the check engine light to go out.  So you know, it can take quite a few miles for the code to clear on its own.

Regarding code readers, I bought a $150 one, then a few years later bought a $10 one from Temu.  I could have saved myself $145.  The expensive one offers more data, but how much data does a person need?  The internet states what the code means.

If you just want to read and clear stored and pending codes a Scangauge II will do, while also serving as a programmable gauge cluster that can display 4 parameters at a time, including transmission temperature and mpg.

For troubleshooting buy a decent OBD2 code reader with  mode 6 live data capability, like the Innova 5010. Mode 6 lets you watch OBD2 engine
parameters like fuel trims, MAF and  O2 sensors, and record misfires in real time while sitting in your driveway , vs simply retrieving a stored code that caused the check engine light to turn on. For example, if there’s a check engine light with a lean condition code , then you would want to look at the MAF and 02 sensor readings and fuel trims in real time to diagnose the cause.

Keep in mind that after  clearing the code(s) you may think the problem is solved  because the check engine light is off.  But the ECM has to complete a full drive cycle and  also see repeat instances  of the underlying  error before it turns on the CEL. That’s where mode 6 live data also helps.

I bought a $15 OBD connector that connects to my Samsung phone and/or tablet. Here's an example on Amazon https://a.co/d/00gw9RSt


I use the app "TORQUE" to connect and access the OBD data.  [size=78%]https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque[/size]
I think this works with iPhone too, but I HAVE NO EXPERIENCE WITH APPLE PRODUCTS. The free app version does a lot of things including letting you create a profile for each vehicle you use it in. Once that is created you can read the codes, and it will translate each into the generic description, plus the manufacturer's year+make+model specific description.


You can also lifetime upgrade to a version of TORQUE where you can create dashboards to show every possible metric live while you drive... I enjoy seeing my instant MPG since my 2010 Is too old for that kind of electronics.   The upgrade was not a lot,,, about $10, but well worth it. (Not sure on the exact price as I bought it years ago.) No regrets here in upgrading,,, money well spent if you like to see ignition timing, air flow volumes, emissions, misfires, etc live as you drive.


I carry this OBD with me on every trip in the Cruiser or in any other vehicle I'm vacationing in. I plug it in to each car during the test drive before I decide to buy.   Tiny, cheap, simple to use.  It's paid for itself just in the ability to reset the engine light off.


Larry