Replace Sharp convection microwave

Our original convection microwave died in 2010 2551 PC.
Anyone have experience with best replacement?  Old model no longer available.

While the old model may no longer exist, I would suggest to check current Sharp models for the equivalent new model.  Sharp is very highly rated.

Hi Rick,

Given all the vibrations that motorhomes give to microwave ovens, if mine broke, I would be very tempted to take it apart and inspect the solder joints.  They can crack from vibration.  A simple reflowing of the solder with a soldering iron on a circuit board might just fix it.

Another thing to check for is a component that looks burnt.  Maybe the component can be replaced.

Sometimes an in-line fuse soldered into the circuit board, can burn or otherwise fail.  Temporarily solder a 12 gauge wire across it and see if that wakes up the microwave.  I did that on my dishwasher (a thermistor soldered on a circuit board) and my washing machine (a tubular fuse soldered on a circuit board).  Because shore power in camp grounds can be very dirty, such safety parts can fail.

Since your microwave is already broken, you can't break it worse.

If you decide to throw the unit away, keep the manual and accessories for someone on this forum might be interested in buying them from you.  You know how it is.....used PCs are often sold with such items missing.

About a year ago my Sharp micro+convection combo quit... not lights, no cooking.  I took it out and found a replaceable fuse in it.  It looks like a glass tube fuse, but it is ceramic.  I found a replacement on Amazon and I put the new one in.  It fixed the microwave for another 2 months.  then it blew again.  The next replacement fuse blew again within a week.  I came to the conclusion that something must be damaged from the years of travel.


I could not find a new an exact replacement, nor another from Sharp that fit the space.


I also found that I could not find a micro+convection combo with a faceplate to fit the existing cabinet.  I finally found a Microwave(only) from SUMMIT on the Wayfair website that fit in the cabinet and at the faceplate. Google "SUMMIT OTR24 MICROWAVE" and you'll find several places that sell it now.  The only modifications I had to make to improve/extend the baffles they included to fit the inside of the cabinet.  The originals were too short and not slanted on the back and too short on the top to contain the air flow and force the hot air out and the cool in.  The short baffles allowed the airflows to mix.


I like the microwave,,, but miss the convection oven.

I still have the old Sharp sitting in the garage if someone wants parts.


Larry

Hi Ron... thanks for your inputs.  If I had a situation like yours, I would have definitely tried to fix it first.  But as you might recall, we live in Hawaii, and the PC is stored in Tualatin, Oregon.  Thus I am more limited to tools and shop capabilites that you have. 
I do think it was a fusible link or similar, as all power is dead.  No lights, no nothing.  So part of our consideration was; if something in the power supply failed, why?  It is 13 years old.  So we left it at one of the State Parks, with a note of what I had found... thinking someone else would be willing to give it a try.
I tried ordering a RecPro model which would have fit in the hole, made for RVs with a trim plate, etc.  Ordered it through Amazon, it was shipped via UPS from Indiana to Oregon, we were able to receive it while there. (We got back to Hawaii home on Friday.)  The new oven was also essentially DOA... it has a child lock feature, which disables either the controls or the door release.  The panel lit up, I could hold the lock button and the "locked" light would go out, but the door would not open!
The inner box had been retaped, and there was not a shred of documentation or anything else in the box, so I strongly suspect it had previously been returned, and was just shipped out again.  (My  biggest gripe with Amazon... that has happened too many times... receiving something claimed to be new but was obviously used and returned.)
But thanks again for your inputs, and I read with interest your post on new wheels and tires.  My tires are 7 years old but only 12K miles, so I am reluctant to follow the "6 year rule."  And our PC is stored indoors, so gets no UV exposure except when it is on the road.

Aloha Larry, thanks for your inputs.  I haven't checked with the PC factory yet to see what they are installing now, but I also didn't find a Sharp model which would be a exact replacement for the old one.
I'm also looking at a GE model, convection plus microwave, which is only slightly larger (1.0 cuft vs 0.9 cuft.)  I think it will fit the cabinet, but I would need to devise a new trim surround.

Rick & Erika

I wonder if Phoenix has new/old stock Sharp microwave ovens laying around to purchase.  It would be worth a call or email to find out.

I've emailed the factory asking what make and model oven they are installing in new PCs.  No reply yet.

I have since discovered a GE convection microwave, Model JES1109RRSS, is an extremely close match.
The original Sharp is 0.9 cu. ft., the GE is 1.0 cu. ft.
The original Sharp is 900 watts, the GE is 1050 watts.
The GE has all the features of the Sharp, plus air fry!  Convection, microwave and grill.

Best of all, it is virtually the same size... it not only fits the cutout in the cabinet, it will fit in the original trim plate from the Sharp oven !!!   And available from Lowes and Best Buy, so no additional shipping required.
I will probably have to adjust the shims under the microwave, if the feet are a different height, but that will be easy.
Won't get to that point until we return to Oregon next May.

What I forgot to add to my prior posting is that when searching for a replacement microwave, I really wanted an "inverter microwave".  For those who don't know what that is,,, allow me to elaborate.


A traditional microwave is on at 100% for full power.   It also cycles from 100% to 0% and back 100% again and again for each power level,, only varying how long it is on or off.   This means that the power draw on the 120V circuit is basically always 100% or near 0%.  A 15amp microwave might use 2 amps for the lights, electronics and fan, and while cooking it will cycle between 1amps and 15amps.




An inverter microwave is able to run continuously at variable powers.  no cycling on and off (no weird sounds. no lights getting bright and dim).  A 15amp inverter microwave cooking at 100% will still would use 15amps, but at 50% cooking it would use something like 9amps continuously during the cooking period.  and maybe 5 amps when cooking at 25%.   The advantage for RVs is that when you are connected to a power cord with the AC running and know you only have about 7amps remaining,,, you can cook at 30% and not trip a breaker.   Or if you are not on shore power and using your pure sine wave invertor you can cook on a lower power and not overload the inverter.  no more stopping the AC to run the microwave.. just cook at a lower power and share the power supply's amps.


(note "inverter microwave" only coincidently has the word "inverter" in it,, it is independent of your RV inverter.)




HOWEVER.. these new inverter microwaves are just a couple years old and I couldn't find one the right size and with a faceplate.  I'm still watching for one because it has a lot of advantages.


Larry

Rick John

My tires are 7 years old but only 12K miles, so I am reluctant to follow the "6 year rule."

Michelin recommendation
Ten years is a maximum. If the tires haven't been replaced 10 years after their date of manufacture, as a precaution, Michelin recommends replacing them with new tires. Even if they appear to be in usable condition and have not worn down to the tread wear indicator. This applies to spare tires as well.

Rick John

Quote

My tires are 7 years old but only 12K miles, so I am reluctant to follow the "6 year rule."

Michelin recommendation
Ten years is a maximum. If the tires haven't been replaced 10 years after their date of manufacture, as a precaution, Michelin recommends replacing them with new tires. Even if they appear to be in usable condition and have not worn down to the tread wear indicator. This applies to spare tires as well.

Agree, and in Rick John's original post he indicated he noted his RV is stored indoors so no UV exposure.  Ozone is a bigger tire issue that UV.  Ozone exacerbates UV exposure so between the 2, 6 years is a good guide, but 10 years is a maximum.  That does not mean in 10 years and 1 day you tires will fail.  10 years is the manufacturer's best safety advice.  Obviously tires have lasted longer. Ron Dittmer stores his PC inside and didn't have any issues for about 14 or 15 years.  So certainly you can take your chances.  My *personal* view is to never skimp on tires and brakes.. They are what keeps you going down the road rather than in an accident.

Your mileage may vary.. So to speak.