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Converter

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mikeh

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Re: Converter
« Reply #15 on: November 28, 2021, 12:45:07 pm »
Mike, we do have the separate inverter+ converter on our 2013 2552. They are under the passenger side twin bed. On a previous factory visit we had Doug cut and hinge the bed board so we have easy access to the components below. It doesn't have lifters as there is no framing to support them but one of us holds it up while the other roots around in there. That output cabling is what Doug tested for us in Spearfish and said it's good.

We may wind up swapping out the converter at some point. We plan to add solar and lithium and were holding out to get it all done at once to make sure everything works as efficiently as possible BUT we may have to bite the bullet and buy a converter now... Or keep plugging in our smart charger as part of our site set up.
Wow!  That hinged bed-board is a good idea!  There's a LOT of stuff under there in the 2552s.  I haven't had to access that area yet on mine except to drain the water tank (and there's a cutout for that), but it just a matter of time before various components of the water system, electrical system, or heating system will need attention.  Of course you would probably pull the bed board for a bigger job (such as replacing the power panel/converter), but that hinge would work great for quick checks and troubleshooting.

Since I don't know exactly what Doug checked for you at Spearfish, I don't know what else to say about your converter.  Lance's comments immediately above are both good ones.  I assume those reverse polarity fuses have already been checked, but they are an easy fail point that will prevent output from your converter charger.  I, too, have experienced the occasional breaker lug loosening (in home electrical applications) but that is a very low-percentage possibility.  Beyond that, it would require testing inputs/outputs with a voltmeter to see where the failure point is.  In Lance's 5300 converter photo, that black and white wire is the 120-volt input to the converter and the blue and white wire is the DC output.  Since I don't have a Parallax unit, I don't know how easy it is to trace the connections for those wires in your setup, but if you can find them and check at that point you should be able to isolate the converter.  If you measure 120-volts between the black/white connections (which probably just hook to the circuit breaker and power panel neutral), the converter has good input.  To confirm DC output at the blue/white wire connections, you will need to briefly unhook your ground cable at the house batteries (to prevent reading the house battery voltage), then check between the blue/white wire connections.  There should be 13-14 volts there if the converter is working (and the two reverse polarity fuses are good).  No voltage with good fuses confirms a bad converter.  Should you happen to have the correct voltage there, re-hook your ground cable and make sure it remains at the same potential (above battery voltage).  If so, the problem is in the cabling between that point and your batteries.

Sounds like a great move to the solar/lithium setup!  I understand the plan to do everything at one time, but as long as you get a converter that is lithium capable it shouldn't present any problem.  That WFCO unit that Lance mentioned earlier in this message string is a good one, and Progressive Dynamics makes a lithium converter though I don't think it is a dual lead-acid/lithium unit.  Their new power centers are, though.  If you choose to replace your entire power center instead of just the converter, the new Progressive Dynamics units just have a switch that lets you choose the lead-acid or lithium charge profile.

Mike
 

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donc13

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Re: Converter
« Reply #16 on: November 29, 2021, 08:21:38 am »
The white blocks (fuses) in the battery compartment go to the inverter, the black box (resettable circuit breaker) goes to the generator starter.
« Last Edit: November 29, 2021, 08:40:27 am by donc13 »
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Don and Patti

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Jerry brown

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Re: Converter
« Reply #17 on: November 30, 2021, 05:16:59 pm »
So  progressive tech support told me that donít make a replacement and I would need a new panel.

That makes zero sense - ii have a 55 amp converter - I just need to make sure I have enough clearance. I may upgrade to AGM batteries next time but donít go off grid enough to justify lithium.  Made through the weekend ok - just kept my 12 volt demand down and we were fine for 3 days

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mikeh

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Re: Converter
« Reply #18 on: November 30, 2021, 06:07:13 pm »
Jerry--

My take is that  the Progressive answer means that they don't have a replacement converter that is a direct fit in your power panel.  The converters themselves are simply 120-volt in/DC voltage out units.  Most individual converters from various manufacturers will "replace" yours--they're just not a "bolt-in" replacement.  FANDJ mentioned in an earlier posting about having Phoenix install a PD 9270 unit in his 2016 RV with the Parallax power panel--his photo showed it mounted adjacent (but separate) to his power panel.  The limitation is that it's pretty tight quarters in there already, and mounting a converter separate can be tough.  I have also seen on other forums PD converters mounted in Parallax power panels by making some modifications to the power panel as needed.  That is almost certainly doable, but it's impossible to know exactly WHAT would have to be done unless you find someone's report that has already completed that swap with the same unit you own.

I'll mention again also that replacing your original converter with a new Parallax bolt-in unit modified to include their TempAssure module provides a variable battery charging profile managed by battery temperature.  JATRAX, for one, used this approach successfully on his 2017 2552 equipped with an AGM/solar setup.  He was very aware of the Parallax/Progressive Dynamic differences, and after experience with the TempAssure setup reported that he was quite satisfied with the Parallax charging performance.  Adding the TempAssure was the route I was going to take before Phoenix switched to PD units as their standard install in 2018.

Keep us advised,         Mike



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DKCruzser

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Re: Converter
« Reply #19 on: November 30, 2021, 10:58:07 pm »
I changed out the converter in my Parallax power panel last year when I switched from AGM to Lithium batteries.  I modified the existing tray replacing the Parallax converter to a Progressive Dynamic Lithium converter.   Rather than hardwiring into the Parallax power panel I used the same 20 amp breaker and added a 20 amp outlet.  (The Progressive Dynamic has a plug).   One of our fellow PC colleagues did the same conversion but he cut the power cord from the Progressive Dynamic Lithium converter and than directly hardwired into the existing circuit.  I had limited space since my power panel is just below my refrigerator in my 2910D but I was able to make the modifications.

Dave
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CalCruiser

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Re: Converter
« Reply #20 on: November 30, 2021, 11:33:10 pm »
My Parallax converter made a faint hum or buzzing noise when the dc output failed. A Progressive Dynamics replacement  tray with Charge Wizard seemed like the obvious choice.
Goin' where the wind goes...

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Jerry brown

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Re: Converter
« Reply #21 on: November 30, 2021, 11:34:55 pm »
Mike - I agree the only issue is space. I have  a 2910d same as Dave so I suspect I can accommodate the swap if I go with progressive. Will call parallax tomorrow and check out that option.

I do appreciate all the input. Itís very helpful

Best
Jerry

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Engineerlt

Re: Converter
« Reply #22 on: December 01, 2021, 10:03:36 am »
Hello Jerry
Not sure where the 2910 has the converter mounted, but on the 2552 its on the passenger side under the twin bed just above floor level. If yours is mounted at floor level you can get a converter that is floor mount. If you take the 2 brackets off of the parallax converter when you remove it, you can simply use those to mount the 12 volt fuse panel that is installed in the parallax converter, as it is mounted to the converter section. Here is a picture of mine showing how I mounted the 12Volt fuse panel, (converter section is removed in the picture). I then installed the WFCO converter in the location of the old parallax but it is mounted to the floor. I did however add a couple of 1/2 spacer blocks under the mounts. I figured if the floor got wet I didn't want the converter siting in water. You can see the brackets holding up the 12 Volt panel, I just had to bend them in a vice 90 degrees. Then I pop-riveted the brackets to the 12 Volt panel.  Just added a couple more photos of the WFCO installed that way you can get an idea what its like behind the parallax panel. Also there is a picture of the cover of the panel.  You will notice that it is mounted differently at the hinge section. This is because originally the hinge mounted to the converter section. Just want to ensure you know how I got around the obstacles. 

Bottom line is, I didn't want to install a new panel, as there was nothing wrong physically with the parallax panel. So I found a solution to be able to upgrade and get what I wanted at a 3rd of the cost.

If you decide it is something you don't want to tackle you can still have my old but good (UBG) converter which should be a direct swap for you.

Very Respectfully
Lance
« Last Edit: December 01, 2021, 10:29:46 am by Engineerlt »