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Entry door latch failure

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Joseph

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #15 on: September 29, 2021, 10:47:20 am »
Done working… ain’t that the truth.  I buy those latches in bulk. I’ve changed every one at least once .

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JJCruiser

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #16 on: November 17, 2021, 09:01:01 am »
Have you seen the Tri-Mark repair kit from latchfix.com. It is 47.50 and repairs the lock for good. No more broken latch issues. A year ago I bought a new door lock assembly from PC because the original broke. That lock is acting just like the original did before it broke, its like you have to pull on the handle till it reaches the end of its travel before the bolt of the door lock assembly moves far enough to disengage from the striker plate on the door frame.  This is because one of the integral rods of the bolt assembly is broke allowing the other rod to flex, and the bolt is made out of pot metal. So it will be broken completely again before long.

I saved the original door lock assembly and just purchased the repair kit to fix that one and install it (I guess that makes me a hoarder). The guy that made the repair kit did a great job, its out of stainless steel and easy to install. The bolt should never break again, everything else will wear out around it before the bolt breaks. If you are wondering I am not sponsored to support this repair kit, its just an honest review. So if you just want to repair the Tri-Mark 060-1650 get the kit you can't go wrong...

Thank you for this post.  I checked my latch and it was not magnetic so I ordered the repair kit knowing it was just a matter of time before I would need it.  I usually follow the adage, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but this time I went ahead and replaced the latch.  When I opened up the original latch I saw a significant amount of metal shavings which leads me to believe something was wearing or someone did a lousy job of cleaning it during manufacturing.  Once I got the old latch out it was an easy install.  I added some grease in key spots to help lubricate the moving parts.  It works great.

Thanks again,

JJ


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Taildragger

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #17 on: April 27, 2023, 10:03:28 am »
The LATCHFIX Kit is obviously a well-made solution to replace the deficiencies of the original components.  The frail, pot metal, striker linkage of the under-sized, breakage prone factory issued model are discarded for precision machined stainless steel replacements.

I learned there is an inconsistency among the Tri Mark 06-1650 construction design. When I ordered the Replacement Kit, I found it wouldn't fit my version's components.    I learned that early in production, Tri Mark varied the design. The early version, as I have, includes a distinctive three-legged connector for the door handles. 

The solution to having a non-upgradable mechanism is to order a new, replacement assembly. Tri Mark claims they no longer include pot-metal components.  That claim is contradicted by the continuing demands for LatchFix Kits.

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Taildragger

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #18 on: April 29, 2023, 06:37:45 pm »
I am now learning, from Tri Mark, there are variations within the specific model number.  Seemingly, even when critical, these differences are.not published.  Nor do they warrant a distinguishable code in order to facilitate ordering.
I found, when ordering a new lock, there are no choices offered - other than by model number.  Only after receiving a new lock as a replacement did I become aware that optional internal measurements are critical.  Because of variations in door thicknesses, the linkage between the two sides are offered in different lengths.
In my case, when assembling the replacement lock outside the door, I can operate the mechanism.  When the outer and inner faceplates are assembled with the door sandwiched between, the linkage between the two is about an eighth inch too short.
I am sharing my frustration as an example of the lack of continuity and problems Tri Mark causes the industry.  Dealing with them is going to be a prolonged process.
The latch they sent offers the potential for solving my broken door handle.  While working on a resolution for the installation misfit, I have reinstalled the broken lock.  Without including the latch bolt, I can use the deadbolt for door operation, in the meanwhile.

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LRUCH

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #19 on: April 29, 2023, 08:22:18 pm »
Tail dragger,


I feel your pain.


I've been shopping for a keyless entry lock replacement for about a year and found the same issue multiple times. Our PC doors are thicker than other RVs.


Of all of the locks I have tried I liked this one the most... True 10 digit code, solid steel, covers the hole in our door with no need for a decal, 2 fobs, etc.
https://www.latchit.org/products-54/class-c-rv-keyless-entry-door-lock
If it fit, I was going to disassemble it and powder coat the outside portion  to be white... I hate that black handle on my white PC.


But the door was too thick for the inside knobs to attach to the posts.  I made a big mistake buying this lock direct from the factory as the return process took 3+ months. They use a 3rd party to accept returned items and expected the lock to be in absolutely perfect condition (i.e. Never out of the box) to accept. I should have used Amazon.


There are a couple other keyless locks mentioned in this forum that members have installed... They too did not fit.  I must have got a different revision.


I've had trouble with the current lock sticking and locking me out... So I am worried it with break soon. Glad we have cab doors as a backup. I keep a key for them hidden under my PC at all times.


Meanwhile, I hope someone has insight on this topic. I know I'll need a new lock soon.
Larry
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flei

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #20 on: April 30, 2023, 09:08:12 am »
I am now learning, from Tri Mark, there are variations within the specific model number.  Seemingly, even when critical, these differences are.not published.  Nor do they warrant a distinguishable code in order to facilitate ordering.
I found, when ordering a new lock, there are no choices offered - other than by model number.  Only after receiving a new lock as a replacement did I become aware that optional internal measurements are critical.  Because of variations in door thicknesses, the linkage between the two sides are offered in different lengths.
In my case, when assembling the replacement lock outside the door, I can operate the mechanism.  When the outer and inner faceplates are assembled with the door sandwiched between, the linkage between the two is about an eighth inch too short.
I am sharing my frustration as an example of the lack of continuity and problems Tri Mark causes the industry.  Dealing with them is going to be a prolonged process.
The latch they sent offers the potential for solving my broken door handle.  While working on a resolution for the installation misfit, I have reinstalled the broken lock.  Without including the latch bolt, I can use the deadbolt for door operation, in the meanwhile.
Good luck finding a replacement. When our door latch failed I "solved" this issue by buying multiple replacements at the same time on Amazon. All came quickly and had free no-hassle returns. I tried them until I found one that actually fit, then returned the rest. FWIW, THIS is the one that fit (note it says it is "no longer available" :help ). I'm not sure that it is an improvement over the original (tho the metal part that fails "looks better" on the new one). As the old one lasted 14 years and 60K miles I'm trying not to fret over it.
The important thing is not to stop questioning. Curiosity has its own reason for existence.- A. Einstein

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CalCruiser

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #21 on: May 01, 2023, 03:58:02 am »
Can’t say if a stiff door handle  is actually a precursor to the common entry door lock failure, but preventative maintenance to keep the mechanism operating smoothly might be the trick?  This 3-In-One garage door spray lube from Lowe’s got ours working effortlessly again. Spray it in the keyholes too, and use a rag to contain the splatter because it smells bad. This stuff is magic compared  to WD40 and the silicone spray lube products that  I tried before.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/3-IN-ONE-11-oz-Garage-Door-Lube/3348342
Goin' where the wind goes...

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Taildragger

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #22 on: May 06, 2023, 09:40:37 am »
i have contacted Customer Support at TriMark. With persistence, I was able to convey my frustration with how complicated something as blatantly simple as finding a replacement door handle is made by their inconsistencies. 

After a prolonged wait for a response to my need for a lock capable of spanning the increased door thickness of a Phoenix Cruiser, I am told the replacement kit is part number 40411-01-K, $336.58 plus shipping. I was also told the kit contains the interior handle, exterior handle, 4 keys, strike plate and screws.

In earlier exchanges, the Customer Support response has always maintained an unwillingness to deal directly with the customer.  At that price, it appears they are willing to make an exception.

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Taildragger

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Final Resolution!
« Reply #23 on: May 13, 2023, 10:12:15 am »
If I were asked to summarize my experience dealing with TriMark in one word, I would offer "exasperating".  Then I would continue telling about receiving the high priced, replacement latch in opened parts bags - as if they were returned items.  No retail box.  No instructions. No warranty card. 

Having accumulated a "wealth" of knowledge, gained from assembling and installing multiple defective locks previously, instructions were not necessary.  But, really? 

The replacement lock fits in the thicker Phoenix Cruiser door, with some adjustments.  Including the necessity of using a file to remove a paper thickness of excess surface from the Striker Plate

The installation works!  The assembly includes improved features and the new keysets are much smoother. 

Trouble is: I don't have a retail box and am left with no information about specific model numbers.  Nothing to pass on to those of us willing to pay an exorbitant price for poor service.

  I wonder what explains why they conduct their business differently than most other places.
« Last Edit: May 15, 2023, 07:42:19 pm by Taildragger »

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Taildragger

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #24 on: May 27, 2023, 10:41:21 pm »
RV Lock offers the Atlas Keyless Lock designed to replace the TriMark lockset.  The Atlas Keyless Lock provides key access with the option of user --programmable combination code and a wireless key fob.   

The weatherproof keypad is backlit for easy visibility even at night.  RVLock backs the lock with a lifetime warranty.
« Last Edit: May 27, 2023, 11:09:34 pm by Taildragger »

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parkgt

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #25 on: May 28, 2023, 12:10:33 am »
RV Lock offers the Atlas Keyless Lock designed to replace the TriMark lockset.  The Atlas Keyless Lock provides key access with the option of user --programmable combination code and a wireless key fob.   

The weatherproof keypad is backlit for easy visibility even at night.  RVLock backs the lock with a lifetime warranty.
uote]

The Charter model from RV Lock I put on our 2018 is wonderful.  I replaced the Trimark before in could cause problems.   Keyless is so nice.  I already have too many keys to keep up with on a trip with a toad , e-bikes, chain looks, bike carrier,etc.  Nice just to walk away without thinking about which key ring to take and not lose.

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LRUCH

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #26 on: May 28, 2023, 11:39:48 am »
I just checked the RVLOCK website. Charter (which is roughly the same shape as the Trimark) looks like it would fit better than Atlas, which is tall and NARROW. I don't want to need to cover up newly exposed door face with a different shape handle.


Glad to hear it fits.


Diving into the details of the Charter.... Again a marketing group that thinks like a 5 year old and in only 2 dimensions. The specs on that lock are "5.5" tall x 7.0" wide". That's all they wrote and probably why I avoided them.  No mention of depth, or if that is the overall size or the opening size, or the size of the opening on the door's edge.  (WH)


They are having a memorial day sale and it is 30% off today. Guess I will try another lock. This will be my 3rd attempt.


Thanks PARKGT for the recommendation. I'll report back with my progress.
Larry
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LRUCH

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #27 on: June 04, 2023, 02:20:09 pm »

I checked my email history and RVlock is one of the brands I eliminated back in Feb 2023 because "Jake" from their tech support department would not tell me the dimensions of the lock, specifically the thickness of the door it could span. He insisted I measure the hole in my door and then he would tell me if it would fit. In other words, the dimensions are a secret and I must let him make the decision. I walked away from the brand.

However, based upon PARKGT's suggestion here in the forum I decided to ignore Jake.

I bought the Class C RVLock on their Memorial Day weekend sale,  $181.99+tax, and they shipped it out on Tuesday from Utah via USPS. It arrived in Houston on Friday. Not bad for free shipping.

Upon opening the box, it contains the inner and outside halves of the lock with batteries already in place (and a plastic tab to pull out to activate them), 2 keys, 2 remotes/fobs and a recipe card sized set of instructions.

The install initially failed due to lock not fitting low enough and not thru the opening in the edge of the door.  I had to file off a small amount of the bottom  edge opening to the point of none left. I also had to grind off about 1/4" of a weld on the bottom edge of the hole. All of these mods helped to get the lock in as low and level as possible.

Keep in mind this is my 3rd attempt / 3rd lock brand to install so I have filed and grinded A LOT of the door away.  There were several sloppy welds inside that door and each handle was shaped differently and I've needed grind on a different weld or edge every time. Once the hole was completely flat across the bottom the halves met and could be screwed together. 

I'll also add, it would have been good to have a second set of hands when putting the halves together cuz this was MORE troublesome than the previous locks. You need to align the 2 lock knobs with the 2 inside posts while pushing the pull latch in as much as possible to make sure it catches the socket at the same time.... while getting a screw to start to thread. One of the lock knobs needs to point UP and kept falling over and the pull latch kept swinging out during this maneuver...
Using 2 hands and a screwdriver in my mouth, I finally got it assembled by getting the screw located closest to the latch in first.  (Otherwise the explicitves would have continued.)

OK, with that done... I just had to make sure it was as low as possible in the door and level. Next I needed to adjust the face plate a bit higher. There is not a lot of play and it is now at the very top and still has a small amount of rub. I might end up lightly sanding the slots that the lock slides into to make it smoother and quieter when closing.   After looking at it more, I might take the face plate off and sand the entire thing and seal it. At 13 years old, it is a bit ugly.

For those who have never adjusted the faceplate, NOTE that there are nylon lock nuts on the back of the face plate bolts. You must loosen them first before turning the bolts (a short 7/16th inch open end wrench just barely fits in there).  Otherwise you risk twisting the head off the bolt.

OK. Next steps are easy. Press the reset button and enter a new 4 digit code (twice), and then pair up the remotes.  Done in 3 minutes.  It talks to you with a welcome message and confirms that the new code and remotes are learned. Within a week I'm sure I will be tired of the chatter and will press&hold button "1" to silence her.  LOL

Final thoughts. The new lock completely covers the door hole, but it does not quite reach the decals so I have a quarter inch gap of new white door showing on the bottom side. I can live with that. I'm happy to have a keyless lock. See the picture below.

After a month, if this proves out to be a keeper, I'll take it back out and sand it a bit, mask the touchpad with tape (if I can't disassemble the thing) and then paint (or powder coat?) it white. My old lock was white and I personally think a black lock is an eyesore on a mostly white RV. I'm sure that changing the color will void the warranty, but it's too ugly as-is.


I also need to put some insulation between the inner and outer halves of the lock... There's a fair sized hole in there that would transfer a lot of heat or cold. I just didn't have foam with me at the storage lot. I'll add it after it is changed to white.

Thank you PARKGT!  Good call on this RVlock.

And to all, apologies for another long winded posting,
Larry
« Last Edit: June 04, 2023, 03:17:33 pm by LRUCH »
Larry

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Ron750

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #28 on: April 25, 2024, 09:29:10 am »
I have a 2016 PC 2910 D. My lock is stuck with the door closed. I called Trimark, and they are sending me a free replacement lock. I also ordered a Latchfix kit. What I'm wondering is what's the best way to get the door open, so I can remove the faulty lock?

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donc13

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Re: Entry door latch failure
« Reply #29 on: April 26, 2024, 07:43:55 am »
Remove the 3 screws on inside portion of the latch, take the inside cover off, then use a small flathead screwdriver to push the latch back.
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