Hi all. Looked around here a bit for topics on installing stabilizer jacks on my 2552. They are not really needed, but my wife would like them. I’m thinking 2 would work. Any ideas as to where the best place to mount them would be? Pictures of your 2552 with scissor type stabilizer jacks would be very helpful if possible.
Thanks all.
I know your goal. Just get the coach so it doesnt bounce around a lot when you are walking into/around inside it. Not to level it. I use wheel blocks to level the coach. Then...
-When I dont have my trailer on, I use my 12 ton bottle jack under the rear hitch. Little bit of 'up' pressure, and it goes from bouncehouse
to solid floor. It does sink overnight, however, so 'refresher pumps' are needed each day. No biggie.
-When I do have the trailer attached, I use the tongue jack (1000# rated) on the trailer to do the same. It is mechanical, so it stays put through the entire time I use it.
AMAZING how much it stabilizes the coach. I am around 230#, so I was the lead culprit for 'rocking the boat'. Mrs V
is WAS satisfied with the results.*
But to help answer your post.....
Just took a quick look at my undercarriage on a 2006 model 2350, and imagined using some Harbor freight stabilizer jacks -
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-ton-trailer-stabilizer-jack-96406.html
5000 pound rating on each! BOOyeah! and under $40 each.
In front of the rear axle would be 'best' for your purpose IMO. (Behind would work fine also, should the clearances be better. Remember, I am getting good results using a single trailer tongue jack ~2 feet behind the hitch! )
On mine the Muffler determines where it would go on the right (passenger) side. The muffler is close to the frame, and would not allow the jack clearance to retract, so I would have to place it a little forward of the muffler. The muffler sticks down about 6 inches from the frame, the jack is ~5 inches collapsed. So the bottom of the retracted jack is not the low spot.
Likewise on the Left side, the LP tank and generator determine that the jack would have to go between them to allow the tool to fit in there to extend/retract the jack. AND...the generator muffler is lower, so again the jack wont be a low spot when retracted.
Since you are just looking to stabilize, they dont have to be exactly the same location 'fore and aft' to work fine for that purpose. Don't get all worried about symmetry.
These Jacks have an extended height of ~23", the frame-to-ground is around a foot on mine, prolly similar on yours. So plenty of lift, even if you are up 6 inches on wheel leveling blocks.
Using these jacks you will be adding 30 pounds of jacks, for the record. Plus the weight of whatever crank handle you would need to reach in there to engage the hex nut on the jack.
Or spend a little more ($450) and electrify them... 60 pound assembly, looks like they are ~6" retracted, but lift to 30".
https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-298707-Electric-Stabilizer-Waterproof/dp/B00JMHI11C
NOT sure how the frame rail spacing would line up, or if its adjustable.
Just tossing out ideas.
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*Great.
Mrs V just came in to check on me, asked what I was typing... read it... and LOVES the idea.
She asked would two jacks work any better and I had to say yes... D'oH!!!!
