New Flooring Cover

Update on earlier observation.

After driving through a heavy rain and experiencing a wet carpet episode, like many others are commenting on, I made note of the area affected and considered the possible source might be the seam between the Cab and Fiberglass Shell.  I applied sealant to the underside of the floor structure.

Carpet wetness is in the center aisle!  Limited to the area where the coach and  Cab join.  Mostly, behind the "dog house" and threshold into the living area.

Today, with the PC parked, there has been a heavy rain.  I checked and the carpet is wet in the same spot. 

Makes me wonder.  Those who report sealing the seam behind the door might have the issue figured correctly. 

Did the carpet ever dry?   It would be quite unusual while parked to have rain from the roof get in, especially without the ceiling getting wet.

Likewise, it'd be real odd for a bad seal underneath the coach to be causing wetness inside.

But of course, if the carpet never dried, which would be likely because of high humidity (thus Torrential rain) it'd still feet wet from leaks while driving.

Several days lapsed since the carpet was saturated.  In the meanwhile, a carpet shampoo vacuum was used to remove water.

After today's rain the floor is again soaking wet.  The Cruiser was parked when it accumulated this puddle.

I didn't mean to claim the roof leaks.  Instead, I believe water is coming in thru the sides and descending the seam and collecting on the floor.  Other respondents suggest the water trough above the door ends about even with the trim concealing the cab to cabin joint and directs the water accumulation into the joint.  That flow descends onto the floor behind the cabin seats.  From there is seeks a low spot to accumulate and seeps towards the center of the floor space behind the doghouse/engine cover.

Possibly, having sealed the joint underneath the cabin, I made the problem worse by sealing what might have otherwise functioned as a drain.

Taildragger,

Given that you have model 2100 with a very over-rated front suspension, I wonder if the extra harsh ride up front encouraged the leaks.  I worry about that with our slide-less 2350.  Our front axle weighs only 3260 with my wife and I sitting in the front seats.  I recently replaced my front springs with softer ones.  CLICK HERE if you want to know more.

.I am currently parked in the Upper Midwest.  When the weather allows, I am going to seal the seam behind the doors.

Earlier suggestions lead me to believe others have pinpointed the area as their remedy.  Never heard any report of success telling the leak was cured.

I read about the front suspension with interest.  That subject includes a wide range of troublesome topics.  Among them alignment, shock absorbers, tire balancing, and driver related issues.   The point about the rigidity of the front suspension and it causing peripheral problems is worth considering.  Thanks for the tip

Progress on the floor continues.  Could not get at the propane tank bolts underneath except with a crows foot and about 14 inches of extensions.  I had a friend underneath doing the bolts.  He works on his 18 wheeler all the time so I trust him.  He said there would be no way to get a nut on a carriage bolt because of framing/etc.  ???? ideas please. 

BTW,  the 3/8 inch carriage just turned in the hole.  7/16 would fit IF I could get them where I live.

If I am reading correctly, there are nuts and bolts holding the inner LP tank mounts thats are in the way of the flooring. These are installed with the bolt entering from the bottom, and a nut on top?

If so, must be a difference in '08 + models. Mine had bolts inserted from the top, and nuts outside on the bottom.  The rear one easily reachable from the wheelwell with a gearwrench..


OK, so lets say you have to install hex head bolts because the carriage bolt shoulders wont anchor.   

If you have the bolt installed from the top, there will be a head and washer standing proud, and interfering with the flooring.   After install, perhaps use a hand held angle grinder, and reduce the head thickness. 'Make' it a carriage bolt head.  It may still be too high. My next step would be to hollow out the flooring on the back. This SHOULD be a very low traffic area, and the lack of support wont matter much.  Use the same angle grinder, and carve away. Maybe test first on a scrap piece. 

With either the nut or bolt head on top, instead of grinding the bolt/nut consider 'relieving' or routing out a shelf 1/4-3/8 of an inch into the floor.  This will leave 1/2-3/8 " of plywood to support. Get a large fender washer,  trace the outline, and use a router, chisel or other available tool to make the pocket to sink the nut/bolthead into.   Then hollow out the floor as above, if necessary.

If you can somehow fit a nut on the BOTTOM of a bolt, maybe dont use a washer on top of the flooring. Tighten the heck out of the bottom nut until the head of the bolt sinks into the floor.  Lube the bottom nut and washer to make things easier pulling the head into the wood. If the head doesnt go in far enough, hollow out the floor as above. I suppose this may work with a nut on top as well - Assemble things with just a nut on top of the flooring, no washer. Just have to trim off any excess thread.

For a thinner nut, try to get a 'Jam nut'. OR grind off 1/2 the nut. DO NOT round it off like a carriage bolt, unlike the head the nut is NOT attached to the center of the bolt.

Hope any of that helps! 

Volk,  thanks for the reply.  The bolts enter from the top, nut on bottom.  2 of the bolts will be covered by the front of the couch-not problem.  The bolt that holds the aft end of the gen is a problem.  The tile is just a tad taller or even with the head of the bolt.  My thought is to just cut a hole in the tile about the same size as bolt head and call it a day.  Took at least 2 hrs yesterday figuring out hope to just tighten vey loose bolts holding gen and propane.  You are correct in that the aft bolt is in very low traffic area.  I have vinyl putty that matches tile and will just mess with covering the head.

Your thoughts are highly appreciated.

r/Bob

I had a lot of questions, then re-read the chain of posts, and now get it.  You can't swap taller hex-headed bolts to low profile carriage in all the places needed.

I wonder if you can locate elevator bolts with a place for an allen wrench to prevent it from spinning.

Or spiked elevator bolts like this.

Ron,  The bolts are hexhead the are above the floor.  I was able to replace 1 with a carriage bolt, but cannot get at the other from underneath the frame.  I attached a picture of my resolution.  Ground down the hexhead a little and used a forstner bit and took out enough of the tile that it would fit over the hexhead. 

Ron,  The bolts are hexhead the are above the floor.  I was able to replace 1 with a carriage bolt, but cannot get at the other from underneath the frame.  I attached a picture of my resolution.  Ground down the hexhead a little and used a forstner bit and took out enough of the tile that it would fit over the hexhead.

YEAH!      Modify and overcome. 

Quote from: Bangorbob on May 06, 2021, 05:40:39 pm

Ron,  The bolts are hexhead the are above the floor.  I was able to replace 1 with a carriage bolt, but cannot get at the other from underneath the frame.  I attached a picture of my resolution.  Ground down the hexhead a little and used a forstner bit and took out enough of the tile that it would fit over the hexhead.

YEAH!      Modify and overcome. 

Look at the product “DAP flooring leveling compound”.  Make a mound at the center, and feather out the compound.  Makes the protrusion much less pronounced.  Used it the same situation in my old chinook.

Look at the product “DAP flooring leveling compound”.  Make a mound at the center, and feather out the compound.  Makes the protrusion much less pronounced.  Used it the same situation in my old chinook.

Thanks for the suggestion.  When I finished a little grinding and drilling, I had no mound.  The bolt is in a very low traffic area.

This is an edited picture from Volkeman's thread.  My question is:  do I have to adjust the rollers that are circled in light blue so they touch the new flooring?