Cabinet de-lamination

Just noticed an area on one of my upper cabinets where along the bottom board of the cabinet face it has stated to crack and de-laminate.
It is along the radius-ed edge of the board. It looks like maybe there was not enough glue used when they formed the veneer around the radius.
Will likely give the factory a call on this as my warranty is up next month. Hoping I can just glue it back down but seeking the wisdom of the group.
Are the cabinet faces easy to replace or does the whole cabinet need to come down?
Have you ever glued this area and what did you use?
Also interested in how you think the factory would handle if this item is reported before the warranty expires but  I don't see this as worth a trip to Elkhart.
Maybe get it fixed some time in the future? Not going to CI.

I would report this (include the picts) to Phoenix and they can either fix it at your convenience in Elkhart or have you take it a Campers Inn nearby (if there is one closer to you than Elkhart) or they can authorize you to take it to a local shop and they pay the shop.

As long as it's reported before your warranty expires.

My opinion is that no, it can't just be reglued, but I am not a cabinet maker.

Don

I think it would be best to document your delamination now with Phoenix and plan a trip there somehow.  You will want Phoenix to make it right because I think it will require "Phoenix" skills to make it right.

Just sent an e-mail with pics to Dave.
Thanks for the input folks!

Just because I think there aren't enough posts in the forum lately, thought I'd give  a quick update on this story 

Dave was very responsive and sent out the replacement wood for this repair.
At first it sounded pretty easy to do but after removing the visible screws from the three verticals that hold this trim board in place and it not feeling any looser, realized there were another 3 screws that I can not see or get to.
Seems I will have to dismantle the entire cabinet to get at those screws. Dave confirmed this and added the trim is also stapled in from the back as well.

I'm pretty sure I could get this done but probably not without scratching things up worse than the thing I'm trying to fix.
So unless any of you have some  helpful hints, I think I will just try to glue down the lifted contact paper and live with it until my next trip to the factory.

As mentioned Dave was very responsive about getting the piece out to me, actually sent two incase I messed the first one up.
Only minor complaint would be that a couple of times I requested to talk to a tech about how the cabinet goes together (and comes apart) but got no action on this request.
Though have to admit ,I was not very persistent and dropped it after a couple of requests.

That's it for now. Jim G.

When I removed the cabinet forward of the entry door in order to move the TV over there (where it should be IMHO) I had to de-construct it completely to do so. The inside panels needed to be removed to access all the screws holding it to the wall and ceiling. As this cabinet housed the stereo, the shelf and bottom were comprised of two pieces that could be pried upwards after interior trim was removed...the staples (usually) come out easily. Your cabinet interior bottom may be just stapled, but the interior side walls may need to be removed first. It was not a job for the faint of heart. I could have replaced the cabinet if I needed, luckily my plan worked, and I used the pieces to rebuild where the TV had been. You can see some of the process here:

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3512.msg29792#msg29792

You have nothing to lose in trying to glue the "veneer". I'd use some Titebond or Elmers, both water based, use a toothpick to apply a small amount to the area..then press it all down with a damp cloth being careful to work with the damage and not against it. Once all excess glue is removed, cover it with some painters tape and leave it awhile. When you remove the tape, release it by pulling it across the area, or parallel to it , not out and away (perpendicular) from it.

If that doesn't work, or even if it does work, I'd have PC replace the cabinet. Good luck!
Dougn

I don't know if this will help with this or future repairs but I made an accidental discovery. My UV light exposes all the staple spots in the trim. Apparently the filler they use to smooth everything out glows in UV.

Unfortunately, the shower caulk doesn't glow so no easy cleanup there.

WOW Doug, Thanks for the great reply! I'm going to try repairing the veneer just like you suggested.

2 Frazzled, That's a handy thing to know. Thanks!

I would be tempted to try using a hair dryer positioned real close to the area of separation.  Heating it up might soften the adhesive already there and reactivate it.  The heat might also allow for forming the material into place better than with no heat at all.  Of coarse my suggestion comes with a load of caution.  You don't want to make it worse.

Yes, I can see where a bit of warmth might make the veneer more pliable and less likely to crack while forming back into shape. I think I would be inclined to use additional glue just because the original already let go once.

I was pretty surprised to learn that this finish, although applied to a fairly substantial piece of wood, is just basically contact paper.

Thanks Ron.

Yes, I too was quite disappointed when I learned that a long time ago.  Only the cabinet doors are drawer fronts are solid hickory, cherry, maple, or other.

At least Phoenix uses real wood, solids and plywood with only a little press board or chip board here and there limited to only a few places.  I wonder how much heavier the rig would weigh if using solid wood throughout.  Especially with hickory, a very hard and heavy wood.  We've been shopping for furniture in Amish country.  Picking up large samples, I was shocked how heavy hickory is compared to cherry.  It could weigh twice as much.

FWIW, we ordered a bedroom set made of hickory for it's durability.  We wanted it light but not patchy as hickory is in it's natural state, nor yellow or red tinted.  We found a particular stain that was just right for us.

Be very careful if you use heat. If it were a true wood veneer heat would be good. If it is plastic, it will shrivel and shrink if too warm.

Yes, I too was quite disappointed when I learned that a long time ago.  Only the cabinet doors are drawer fronts are solid hickory, cherry, maple, or other.

At least Phoenix uses real wood, solids and plywood with only a little press board or chip board here and there limited to only a few places.  I wonder how much heavier the rig would weigh if using solid wood throughout.  Especially with hickory, a very hard and heavy wood.  We've been shopping for furniture in Amish country.  Picking up large samples, I was shocked how heavy hickory is compared to cherry.  It could weigh twice as much.

FWIW, we ordered a bedroom set made of hickory for it's durability.  We wanted it light but not patchy as hickory is in it's natural state, nor yellow or red tinted.  We found a particular stain that was just right for us.

It's not for the weight, it's because of the cost of 100% hardwood and the craftsmanship needed to match grain and patterns.   With contact, far easier and cheaper.

Quote from: Ron Dittmer on November 21, 2020, 10:14:35 am

Yes, I too was quite disappointed when I learned that a long time ago.  Only the cabinet doors are drawer fronts are solid hickory, cherry, maple, or other.

At least Phoenix uses real wood, solids and plywood with only a little press board or chip board here and there limited to only a few places.  I wonder how much heavier the rig would weigh if using solid wood throughout.  Especially with hickory, a very hard and heavy wood.  We've been shopping for furniture in Amish country.  Picking up large samples, I was shocked how heavy hickory is compared to cherry.  It could weigh twice as much.

FWIW, we ordered a bedroom set made of hickory for it's durability.  We wanted it light but not patchy as hickory is in it's natural state, nor yellow or red tinted.  We found a particular stain that was just right for us.

It's not for the weight, it's because of the cost of 100% hardwood and the craftsmanship needed to match grain and patterns.   With contact, far easier and cheaper.

Oh, hands-down I agree with you, and I would be all in for 100% real solid wood cabinetry.  I only wondered if significant weight would be added.

Here's some charts on various wood weights:
http://www.globalwood.org/tech/tech_wood_weights.htm

And comparison to MDF and plywood:
https://www.impekk.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Sugatsune-weights.pdf

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