Trik L start part 2

Any body that has one of these installed, please confirm.  Several emails back and forth to company.  In all of their instructions, they connect directly to the + start and house batt. terminal.  Based on the picture in the “dead battery” post on our forum,  I connected my wires as the picture (page2) shows. Guessing that is a solenoid.  I cannot get the orange charging light to illuminate.  So I’m thinking, is that solenoid ONLY MAKING CONTACT BETWEEN THE 2 POSTS WHEN THE WHITE DASH BOOST SWITCH IS PRESSED?  So if that’s the case, then just plugged into 110v and the switch not pressed, then power is not being passed On to the cranking battery.  Meter shows 13.48v on my house but only 12.28 on the crank batt.  This latest triklstart is also supposed to be passing 10 amp.

So maybe scratch that idea. Had DW come out and hold white switch, while I watched, charging light wouldn’t come on and didn’t hear any clicking like making contact.

Not sure which battery maintainer you are trying to install. This one? It says 10A... but not 110 volts.

http://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html 

  if so, use this diagram. You can access the coach + from under the hood at the solenoid, so you can keep everything tidy.

If not, maybe post the model of the 'trik-l-start' you are using.   


Is this the picture you refer to for your wiring? If yours is similar, all the connections you need are right there. Start batt+, coach batt + and grounds.

Wire on the breaker, full right in the pic with the smaller blue wire, is coach +.

Wire on the solenoid, near full left on pic.  Big red one sharing also with a smaller blue, left lug of the two top posts. Thats start batt +

Grounds are plentiful.   





Sorry about all the questions, but reading both threads you have about this there isnt a lot to go on. Hope this helps guide you.

That’s the pic I was referring to.  In the first post, mentioned this unit is revision F1, and has a few more bells. 
Now what started all of this was a dead crank batt last month, white switch trick didn’t work, so went and bought a new batt.  Then comes the string of posts “dead battery” that prompted me to get the trikL start.  Lots of emails from GM at LSL, and several suggestions to get it to work.  Posted about having wife hold white switch, checking voltage with meter, key in various positions still not working right.  Finally this am, pulled open the red fuse holder as seen in the pic. That looks like it runs off an auto resetting breaker fuse on the wheel well.    5amp APO fuse blown.  Long trip to town to get new fuses, plug in VOLA.  Tested white switch and very vibrant thunk coming from fire wall that even I can hear.  For now house and crank batt close to same measured voltage.  So what blew the fuse in the first place, and how long has it been blown?  50 cent fuse prompted buying a new batt, but it was old.
So moral, check fuses first.

In the first post, mentioned this unit is revision F1, and has a few more bells. 

My bad!  I didnt realize 'Trik-L-Start'®  was the brand name, I am so used to 'trickle chargers' as a generic term.  Google led me to the right page, however.  No worries, it just makes diagnostics a LOT easier when one knows what product is being used. Providing links is a very polite thing to do when asking for help.

And you have made an excellent case for DIAGNOSTICS over parts replacing.    Glad you worked it all out. If your start battery was over 3 years old, probably a good idea to get a new one anyway.

Quote from: Tarnold on June 09, 2020, 01:08:08 pm

In the first post, mentioned this unit is revision F1, and has a few more bells. 

My bad!  I didnt realize 'Trik-L-Start'®  was the brand name, I am so used to 'trickle chargers' as a generic term.  Google led me to the right page, however.  No worries, it just makes diagnostics a LOT easier when one knows what product is being used. Providing links is a very polite thing to do when asking for help.

And you have made an excellent case for DIAGNOSTICS over parts replacing.    Glad you worked it all out. If your start battery was over 3 years old, probably a good idea to get a new one anyway.

Volkemon,

Be aware, in your pict, that black solenoid activates once the engine starts and and feeds alternator output, across that small breaker back to coach batteries to charge them while you are driving.

That small self-reset breaker (40a if my memory is correct) is a common failure on PC's.   When I took mine to PC (while Kermit still owned PC) Bob replaced it for no charge because they often fail after a few years.

Point being, if that breaker fails, the Trik-l-Start will stop working as the way you show it wired (yellow and blue on Solenoid top terminals) [which IS the correct way to install it] won't have any voltage on the coach battery terminal until that breaker is replaced.

Don

Volkemon,

Be aware, in your pict, that black solenoid activates once the engine starts and and feeds alternator output, across that small breaker back to coach batteries to charge them while you are driving.

That small self-reset breaker (40a if my memory is correct) is a common failure on PC's.   When I took mine to PC (while Kermit still owned PC) Bob replaced it for no charge because they often fail after a few years.

Point being, if that breaker fails, the Trik-l-Start will stop working as the way you show it wired (yellow and blue on Solenoid top terminals) [which IS the correct way to install it] won't have any voltage on the coach battery terminal until that breaker is replaced.

Don

Thanks for the credit, but not my pic.       I just borrowed it to show connection points.   I did state to put it outside the 'protection' of the 40A breaker, figured the wires on the Trik-l-start would melt before the 40A breaker tripped anyway.