Sani-con and electric valves not working

The breakers are auto reset type.  When an over current condition occurs a set of contacts in the breaker open and de energizes the load side.  Once it cools down it automatically resets the breaker and restores power to the load.


Like anything else they can fail or develop poor connections so it would be a component to check if one was troubleshooting a problem.

Funny with all I do with our PC, I am not familiar with all the main electrical stuff, and hope I never have a need to. 

If those are fuses or breakers, I wonder why.  There is a main 110V breaker panel with 12V fuses.  Why not keep it all together, with easy access to reset breakers or replace fuses?

Here is my 110V breaker/12V fuse panel.  Why the extra?  I admit I am a dummy concerning my PC's power distribution requirements.

In our 2007 2350 the breakers. etc. that FANDJ posted are screwed to the wall behind those doors below your fuse/breaker/inverter control panel.

In our 2007 2350 the breakers. etc. that FANDJ posted are screwed to the wall behind those doors below your fuse/breaker/inverter control panel.

Interesting.  I will have to take a closer look in there.  The only time I open those two doors is to clean the floor.  It is funny.  I think it's the only area of our PC that I never examined closely.

Quote from: flei on April 05, 2020, 11:09:52 pm

In our 2007 2350 the breakers. etc. that FANDJ posted are screwed to the wall behind those doors below your fuse/breaker/inverter control panel.

Interesting.  I will have to take a closer look in there.  The only time I open those two doors is to clean the floor.  It is funny.  I think it's the only area of our PC that I never examined closely.

"I think it's the only area of our PC that I never examined closely."  From what I've seen of your many wonderful postings on this forum, it's hard to believe you haven't seen ever square millimeter! 

The gray tank valve on my 2012 2551 is not operating electrically while the black tank valve and the macerator pump works fine.
Is there any chance that the gray valve is on a separate circuit from the black tank valve?
I gather that the valve can be opened manually if I *could* crawl under and get to it? (I can't)

No to both.  No separate fuse, no you can't open by hand without removing the actuator.   There *may* be a handle on the valve but you won't be able to pull or push it.

My electric gray tank valve was not working while the black tank valve and the pump did operate.
The light will not light since the switch for is triggered by the valve not being closed.

Doug at Phoenix USA in Elkhart replaced the valve.

In spite of how I understood it, it turns that there are no manual drain valves as such. 
Doug said you have to unscrew the motor on the valve, unscrew the part that actuates it  - and toss it out - and you can slide the gate valve manually.

Good luck with that,

Because they are breakers, not fuses.  Self resetting even.

That panel you picture uses breakers for 120v ac and only appears to have 3 fuse slots open anyway.