2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification

Good point Volkemon!  That makes sense...."The Offset" is likely the reason for the custom made commode riser.  When I open the toilet valve and look down, the drain pipe heads off at an angle, so much that I do not see down into the black tank.  As I recall once looking up from the ground, the black tank is right there, just enough of a skew to look line-of-sight into the tank.  It has been many years since I looked, I'll have to look again to confirm.

The 2552 is a straight shot to the black tank - no riser BUT smaller grey tank, larger black as that's how they fit under the rig. Center bath models have larger grey, smaller black and a riser for the toilet due to where the tires are (I think).

Today's project... modify a shoe rack to be a shoe rack/80# water carrier.

Anchored to the floor with a strap (removed when parked) attached to two eye bolts that go through the floor. Each bolt has a working load of 275#, so I should be fine. 

We go through about a gallon of potable water each day, and the jugs have always been a problem. And with me having size 14 shoes, they are also always in the way.   

So.... solved two problems.     We have an electric pump that will go into the 'working' jug when parked.

Slide out - 



Slide in - 




Top 'hold down' board is 3/4 plywood upholstered with black headliner cloth. Works VERY well to keep the jugs in place. 

Rack and plywood weigh 7 pounds. Water weighs 80 pounds, and stays put and out of the way now. YAAAY!!!  Happy Mrs V. 

Very nice indeed.  I know it's was hard, long, tedious work to get to where you are.  Again, thanks for posting and helping others like myself.

Well, I really shouldn't be neglecting my own thread... .... 


Recap - go read here - https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=4601.msg41111#msg41111

TL/DR - I found my black tank odor was toilet leaking fumes. New toilet shopping ensued.


Came home with one of these -




 They were short staffed, with signage warning you.    We were extra nice to anyone in a CW shirt.

Bunch of salesmen in glass booths, NONE were even interested in doing anything.

Chris came in and REALLY saved the day.

 List is $224, online price $199 for the toilet.

Our GoodSam club membership had expired in may, so it needed re-upping.

  Somehow.... Chris worked it out so the final charge on my credit card was $170.   

  $170  


Toilet and 1yr GoodSam membership renewal. WOW. 



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Good news #1 -    There is NOT a huge cavity in the shell to become 'Maggot Valhalla Deux'.   The valve seals directly to pipe.



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Good News #2 - The seat is bigger. The old seat is set behind the new. Gives an idea.



And the curvature of the bowl downward in the front is much more abrupt, and it goes a bit deeper overall. No longer will my dangly bits be depth finders...

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Good news #3 - It fits like it belongs. And looks FINE doing it. Real porcelain. NOW it is a motor HOME, not just a camper. 



SORRY Honey...I shoulda swept up for the pic... Folks, last weeks festival was a week in a citrus grove, with copious rain the first two days. Things got muddy. I have not cleaned things out yet.

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Good news #4 - No wall clearance issues. Packing materials are still on in this pic.   



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Good News #5!  What a day! 

The foot flush is easy to operate. My lovely model kindly demonstrates how even a petite lady can use it with no issues. 



 SO nice not to bend down over the toilet to flush. 


WHOA!  Just previewed this one...and this forum does NOT like to post vertical pics!      Oh my...  She is proportioned NOTHING like that... but you get the idea, it is easily flushable. Even by mutants. 



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Well....now the challenge. The fittings dont line up at all. The water line does come out at about the same spot as the toilet fitting. Very close. 




Thats the one challenge, I cant complain too loudly!  Off to go figger it out. I supoose a trip or three to Home depot is in my future... 

Challenge overcome.


The sharkbite fittings ARE pricey, but deliver.  Estimate at $10/per.  Reusable, I was able to reposition the fittings  and recut the PEX lines a few times. They rotate also, which allowed for assembly in tight quarters. My crimp tool is a PITA to use in tight places, and if you rotate the fittings after crimping, they are not guaranteed to be water tight.      At least in my experience.

Cry once. 


I got a stainless steel street elbow for the back of the toilet from Home depot.  I resurfaced the sealing face for the original 'thumbwheel' attachment, as it was a little rough. Put a 90* Sharkbite on the tube coming from the thumbwheel, with a piece of scrap PEX to mark where it fell. Marked the top or the pedestal  with green sharpie.




and look!  My hole is half covered by the 2x4 support below. 

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Check it out. Here is my access hole, after using a 1" holesaw and chiseling out the offending pieces. 



Left a nice shelf for the sharkbite fitting. 

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Now here is a view of the fitting nestled in the pocket. You can see the tube coming 'towards' you, that connects to the original water line in the next pic.




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Here you see the original water line with the band crimps, and the 90* sharkbite going to the tube referenced in the last pic. No tension in the line or corners, it all fit well after a few trim cut. LOVE these sharkbites.



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And the finished product!              Looks like nothing ever happened, unless you know the bath before.



and for c2006. the flooring and walls are holding up well.

That shower curtain rod is a game changer. Good purchase. See previous post. 

 Next up is the fabled bathroom remodel. 


    

So Mrs V came home with new fixtures for the kitchen and bathroom sink.   

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glacier-Bay-Sadira-4-in-Centerset-2-Handle-High-Arc-Bathroom-Faucet-in-Brushed-Nickel-HD67513W-6004/314938223

https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Glacier-Bay-Sadira-Single-Handle-Pull-Down-Sprayer-Kitchen-Faucet-with-TurboSpray-and-FastMount-in-Stainless-Steel-HD67726W-1508D2/313413331

and so I went installing.    The stainless finish looks close enough to the brushed nickel that they appear matched. 


Bathroom fixture could not have been easier.  I did the job with no tools, and in 10 min sitting on the new commode. 



SO nice!  i had trouble even washing my hands with the original.  Now it is So much easier. 

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Kitchen fixture was just a slight bit more work. I cut the original lines shorter, and added these on top to hook up to the new lines.  -
https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-x-3-8-in-O-D-Compression-Chrome-Plated-Brass-Quarter-Turn-Angle-Stop-Valve-23036-0000LF/202270612

Everything else was easy peasy after that.     The end pulls out and has a spray/stream switch, like the one we have at home.



Folds out of the way completely when wanted, and DOESNT leave the handle in the way. Loading gear in and out of the camper, we have had 'events' in the past where a box bumped the handle, and turned on the water.    Hearing the pump cycle was our heads up. Now everything is nice and out of the way.

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Anyone need parts for their original fixtures?  I rebuilt the handle in the kitchen fixture a couple years ago, the bath fixture is all original. No issues with operation with either one, so if you need parts get back to me before Friday, AKA Trash Day. 



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Also had some major developments in kitchen storage.  The space behind the cutting board/counter extension was a 'black hole' of stuff. Open in the back, things would fall into the 'nether regions' behind the drawers. AND... the support for the cutting board/counter extension was this one miserable bracket that had failed Mrs V enough the extension was untrustworthy and unused.

So I made a slide out bin.

Here it is retracted. I used the original 'pin lock' that came with the extension, and only moved the receiver to the bottom of the sliding bin. Locks in firmly.




The raw edge of wood on top is the extension support, currently under construction.  Today I fitted a leg that stores neatly below, and drops down to support the extension VERY nicely. Like put MY weight on it nicely. 


More pics as it gets completed. Tests are ongoing. It slides very well under load, and the extension folded down locks it in quite well for travel.

The slides I used (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-21-in-Full-Extension-Undermount-Soft-Close-Drawer-Slide-Set-1-Pair-2-Pieces-9236061/302992025) support 90#, so they should be plenty robust for the cabinet load.

Inside is fully carpeted, and has its own light. Using white and black vinyl for a finish material for now, as I have a lot of it. 

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Also 'boxed in' the small cabinet below the extension, and carpeted it.  No more stuff sliding into the lower cabinet abyss. I NEVER understood why this area was left unfinished from the factory. I dug 4 boxes of tinfoil out of its depths.    Forgot to get a picture of it.

Until next update...CHEERS! 

 

Nice Faucets there Volkemon!

Don't add to the landfill. Donate to Goodwill or Habitat for Humanity. Either will resell in their stores. Habitat does more of the renovation stuff: appliances, whole cabinet sets, fixtures, plumbing supplies, etc. It's a good place to donate to when you are downsizing or renovating.

Volkemon, I advise to save the bath faucet for parts to support the inside and outside shower faucets.

If we were neighbors, I would take your kitchen faucet for the same reason.

Don't add to the landfill. Donate to Goodwill or Habitat for Humanity. Either will resell in their stores. Habitat does more of the renovation stuff: appliances, whole cabinet sets, fixtures, plumbing supplies, etc. It's a good place to donate to when you are downsizing or renovating.

A noble thought, but Habitat states that -

""• Sinks w/faucets (less than 5 years old, new or gently used)
• Plumbing Parts (new pipes, fittings, etc.)""

So 15 year old RV fixtures are not desired. 

Goodwill in Vero might take them, but their resale value is questionable. And its a 48 mile round trip for me. Were it an item of greater value, maybe!

Volkemon, I advise to save the bath faucet for parts to support the inside and outside shower faucets.

If we were neighbors, I would take your kitchen faucet for the same reason.

Good point on the bath fixture being 'Supporting parts' for the shower and outside. Might toss that in the RV parts bin if there is room. The shower fixture is being replaced when we remodel also, so the offer may come up again.

The kitchen fixture is small enough to fit in a medium flat rate box, I do believe. 13x11x3 3/8 is box size........ Measured the fixture, looks like it will fit. 

It is 2021, and we now know EVERYONE is our 'neighbor', not just people we can see in yards around us. As a SMALL token of appreciation for the help and ideas you have given to me and this forum, if you PM your address to me I will gladly ship it to you.

It is 2021, and we now know EVERYONE is our 'neighbor', not just people we can see in yards around us. As a SMALL token of appreciation for the help and ideas you have given to me and this forum, if you PM your address to me I will gladly ship it to you.

Volkemon, That is very kind of you but I won't be giving you my mailing address (for such a reason) because it's not worth shipping here.  As was my implication...."living in your neighborhood" would have been different.  But "Thank You" for your generosity.

Yeah, when you cant even GIVE the parts to people who could use them....  ....I wonder as to the value of spending the time and gas to donate them to a cause. 

And for the record, your ideas and advice were worth WELL above the $15 it would have cost me to ship it to you. Thanks so much again.

And for the record, your ideas and advice were worth WELL above the $15 it would have cost me to ship it to you. Thanks so much again.

Thank you for your kind words.  I try when and where applicable for our PC family.

the rollout cabinet is done!

Has a bit of droop, but gravity....cant live without it.



Mrs V is thrilled.    She is VERY kitchen oriented, as we are both foodies. Having the extra bit of  SOLID counter, and the easily accessible storage is a win-win in her (and my) book.

The access hole has 1/16th aluminum angle on it to be resistant of impacts that WILL occur. 

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First design had a longer bottom leg, and required a lift of the cabinet to deploy the leg fully. More pleasing to the eye when up, but not so much for ease of deployment.

I didnt mind the droop, and making another countertop support.

Now the process for deployment is:

-lift countertop extension
-pull out cabinet.
- place top brace below edge of counter, against the pin, and you are done.




The leg drops to  'plumb', and any pressure on the countertop gets it seated through the pad.


Stowage is similar:

-- lift bottom leg to bottom of cabinet
- slide in cabinet
-Press countertop extension to seat the locking pin.

The top brace on the slide out box folds and stows without help.


The step in the top rear fits around the wood brace on the back wall, and the cabinet is less than an inch away from the wall. Left enough room on the rear side to allow for right angle plugs to still be fitted in the electrical outlet that is contained back there, should I find a need to use it. Have not yet....but it is still an option.

I am happy to find a storage solution that also allows for the additional (well supported!)  counter space.

When we got it, the coach had another counter on the end that had mounting issues, and was removed for the time being.  Now to locate that and reclaim more counter.