Pulled the trigger!

Well, last Friday we pulled the trigger on a 2552.  The main non standard things we had done was to put in the slide from a 2551 to give an 80" driver's side bed and also added the motorized option to that side giving me some added width too.  This also gives my 68" wife a nice amount of room on the other bed.  We also had lights put on the outside rear and driver's side for ease of hooking up and finding things after dark.  Two solar panels also went on the roof.  If there is room on the roof (Earl wasn't sure with the solar) we'll upgrade to Max-air fans.

One thing we learned is that if anyone is on the fence with ordering DO IT THIS WEEK!!!  A 15% price increase hits April 1 any orders done prior to that will still be honored even if delivery is well after the increase date.

We still have time to add more modifications, any suggestions?  90+% of our camping has been and will continue to be where electric is not available.

Thanks everyone!
The Tall Guy, aka Gary

Congratulations on being a future owner of a 2552.  We have a 2016 model 2552  that we bought new and has served us well.  Since you intend to use it in areas without electrical hookup by relying on solar panels I suggest that you have a battery monitor installed.  It not only allows you to monitor voltage but more importantly it allows you to know how much power is being put in the battery from shore power, alternator, generator, and solar panels and also how much is being used by the various electrical appliances in the coach.  It provides you the number of hours available at current electrical demand before reaching 50% battery charge (battery life is significantly shortened by discharging below 50%).  The Bogart Trimetric and Victron are two popular monitors neither are cheap (approx $150) but are well worth it if you depend on your solar system.  I have the Victron unit that I have used for about 5 years (removed from a previous camping trailer and installed in PC) and would be lost without it.  These monitors are also very useful in trouble shooting electrical issues as they provide a quick means of determining the current (amps) various appliances are using which you can compare that with what is normal.

As for the MaxxAir fans I have three of them.  I did not want or need the roof mounted luggage rack  which allows the MaxxAir installation in the bathroom.  Having used Fantastic fans on previous campers I much prefer the MaxxAir fans.  The AC is too noisy so as much as possible we will use all three fans and only start up the AC as a last resort.  They also have a built in rain hood which allow use of the fan while raining without the need to add an additional cover.

Are the battery monitors something I need to install later or can the factory install one for me.  I thought Earl said there is a monitor that comes with the solar panels, is it not detailed enough?

Since I had a monitor when I ordered the PC I had Phoenix install the current shunt because it was easier during the build.  I installed the actual meter after I picked up the PC.  If I had not already had the monitor system I would have asked Phoenix to provide and install.

I am not familiar with the solar controller Phoenix is providing ( I provided and installed my own) but I do not believe it provides the essential information that is provided by the Victron or Bogart units.  It is critical that the monitor allows you monitor current (amps) going into and withdrawn from the batteries.  It should allow for continuous integration of amp hours used from and replaced into the batteries  in order to provide a reliable estimate of the battery state of charge (SOC) zero to 100%.  Ultimately what you are interested in is how much charge is in the batteries and how much is the charge being used and how much is being replaced.  I may be wrong but I think the standard Phoenix controller monitor only looks at the performance of the solar panels/controller and it’s output terminal voltage.  Hopefully, others here that have the Phoenix supplied solar controller/monitor will correct me if I my assumptions are wrong.

Are the battery monitors something I need to install later or can the factory install one for me.  I thought Earl said there is a monitor that comes with the solar panels, is it not detailed enough?

The little panel that comes with the solar only shows the activity of the solar array.  And (at least on mine) they installed in the stairwell so low you have to lay on the floor with a flashlight to read it.  Not all that useful.

If you spend time off-grid a real battery monitor is extremely useful (IMHO = required).  Phoenix installed the Trimetric one on my rig: TM-2030-RV  It can be done after delivery but it is much easier to have Phoenix do it.  This monitor watches your batteries, not just the solar so you can get an accurate reading on how much power you have available at any time.

At the time of my install Phoenix was using a Samlex Solar 'kit' with all the parts in the box.  Not what I would do if I did it myself as there are better panels and better controllers available, but there are far worse ones as well.  Overall, it works, I did not have to do any of the install and I'm satisfied.  But if you are really, really serious about solar have it done at a pro shop like AM Solar in Eugene, Oregon.   But that is going to cost a lot more and require a trip to Oregon, or to someplace else that does pro RV solar work.  In short the Phoenix installation is "good enough" for most but might not satisfy someone who wants the absolute best performance.  Personally I am happy with mine, except for the ridiculous location of the solar monitor panel.  Ask them where they intend to put it and see if it can go up to eye level someplace so you can actually use it.

OR, and this is what I wanted done (but it did not happen): get the Trimetric TM-2030-RV monitor and the Trimetric SC-2030 solar charger.  They integrate and use the same display.  Look up the info here: SC-2030  This would replace the Samlex charger that comes with the kit Phoenix uses.

Congrats Gary!  

Our 3100 started production on the 19th of March. We put 1  1/2 years into the thought process of what we wanted, including customizations. It's an exciting time when you finally get the order done. The waiting is the difficult part.

Perhaps to answer your question regarding the installation of a battery monitor this link https://youtu.be/tuiwotyx3Wg
shows the installation of a Victron unit.  As shown the monitor system includes a current shunt, a monitor readout, and interconnection cables.  While not overly difficult to install after the PC build the mounting of the shunt and battery wire connection is simpler during the build.  If whatever reason PC pushes back on installing a monitor you could install later or as Jatrax stated employ the services of an RV solar installer.

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2489.0;attach=3902

This shows my Victron readout in the front of the kitchen base cabinet.  The shunt is mounted in this same cabinet near the location of the two 6 volt batteries (underneath the kitchen sink).

If you are really interested in solar and off grid camping try reading Handy Bob.  https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/

Handy Bob is .... opinionated, I guess.  And I don't agree with him on everything 100% but he knows his stuff, he lives it every day.   it's likely more than you wanted to know but if you have the time read it through.  just keep in mind he goes only with the best solution, not necessarily the most cost effective.

Interesting way to gain longer bunks. PC offers a 6 inch extension which is the way I went. it gives us a little more cabinet space. Other than that, I would have them Install a higher dome in the shower. I am 6'3" and had to bend over in the demo model. Ours with the higher dome works well. I would also have dual pane windows installed. Quieter, warmer in cold and cooler in heat. Also, window awnings. We do not like the loud AC so with dual pane windows, awnings and two Max-Air fans going, we rarely use AC. Wow, 15% increase. They better have some great cabinet latches. I just traveled from PA to Phoenix and back to TX enroute home and have gone through five. Only have one spare left.

 

Congrats Tall Guy!

I would suggest adding insulated windows to your build sheet. The extra insulation can only help when off-grid. We have the rear and driver exterior lights too; they are really nice!

Steve

The RV Bible, 'Are you RV Ready'  (Author:J. Boyer) has an excellent discussion of possible RV solar options.  I found his narrative on solar and batteries to be particularly helpful.

We also had lights put on the outside rear and driver's side for ease of hooking up and finding things after dark.
The Tall Guy, aka Gary

Great decision Gary!  I wished I thought of that 11 years ago back in 2007 when ordering our PC.

One thing you will want to ask....where exactly is the driver-side light getting mounted?  If it is on the stationary wall next to the slide out, the slide out will shadow 50% of the light.  Another thing to watch out for is to make sure the light does not interfere with an individual window awning.  I read someone else had trouble with their driver-side porch light preventing them from installing a highly desired window awning there.  Get that all understood up front so no surprises pop up at the point of no return.

I installed a pair of 6V AGM batteries and I really appreciate their performance and no-maintenance.  Ask Phoenix what the up-charge would be to have them.  Maybe someone else will support my AGM comment, maybe not.  Going solar might be a bad mix with AGM, but then again might be ideal....something to discuss with people who know....I surely don't know.

Ask Phoenix what the up-charge would be to have them.  Maybe someone else will support my AGM comment, maybe not.  Going solar might be a bad mix with AGM, but then again might be ideal....something to discuss with people who know....I surely don't know.

AGM and solar are fine, they are what I have. But they are not the most cost effective by any means.  That would be a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries.  But I'm not sure if they fit in the standard Phoenix battery tray.  The huge plus for AGM is that they are maintenance free and can be mounted on their sides if desired.  Otherwise there are other batteries that work as well and cost less. 

And you need an AGM deep cycle not just an AGM to be competitive with other deep cycle batteries.  They use the AGM technology for starting, marine and deep cycle batteries so just saying AGM does not tell the whole story.

Lead acid batteries regardless of whether they are AGM or require watering are pretty simple and the only real difference is the style and weight of the lead plates.  A good deep cycle battery will have heavy thick plates, while a starting battery will have more but thinner plates.  A marine/deep cycle battery (the normal RV battery) is in the middle.  The best and cheapest are 6 volt golf cart batteries called GC-2, not because they are anything special but because they are deep cycle and sold by the pallet load, so very common and easy to find.  Costco and Walmart usually stock them.  But they have to fit the battery tray and they require maintenance.

The upcharge for AGM in my coach was significant, around $400 if I remember right.  But they are Trojan true deep cycle AGM.

I will be picking up my 2552 on Monday.  I added Lifeline AGM batteries as aquick recovery and maintenance-free option to the standard coach batteries.

The upcharge for AGM in my coach was significant, around $400 if I remember right.  But they are Trojan true deep cycle AGM.

I wonder how much better your Trojan batteries are over the $360/pair Sam's Club Duracell GC2 AGM that I installed 3 years ago.