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Rain Water Leaks into coach.

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Volkemon

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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #15 on: December 09, 2017, 11:22:30 am »
Replies nested in the quote below, in red.

You learned a lot overnight.

:lol Yes we did.

A 2006 entry door is the same one used in a new 2018.  It sounds like you should order the thicker main entry door seal from Phoenix.
Maybe so. The one on there is in decent shape, but I dont like how it was installed.

If any water is coming in between the main entry door frame and the wall, that would require caulking.  Look for cracks in the existing caulk.  Many seams are trimmed off with a 3/4 x 1/8" plastic trim and caulked on each side, but between door frame and wall I think it's a single seam.  Also check the tiny rain gutter across the top of the door, making sure it is clean and sealed properly against the wall.
The door frame looks like a flush mount to the wall outside, with a small bead of silicone sealant I suspect has been added later. The tiny rain gutter is there, with no 'gaping voids' but missing the front gutterspout.

I am curious about your rear exterior wall damage.  Could you post a picture of it?  You have me wondering how deep the impact went.  It sounds like it affected the rear structural interior wall.  You mentioned the rear compartment gets wet but has good drainage.  Are you referring to the large rear under-bed storage compartment?  Or the shallow rear storage compartment integrated into the rear wall?
Pictures coming. Its ugly up close, but not  :beg on a casual look. I think it was major, tearing off the rear cover on the right rear judging by the crack in it, and the poor shape of the covering trim over the seam.   :'( It got us a ~$2K reduction on the price. The leak is in the shallow rear compartment, although I have not checked the underbed yet today. It is still lightly raining, and bitter cold (for Florida.. I may have to put on a shirt!  roflol ) Pictures coming ASAP.

When we visited Phoenix a year ago, walking the factory floor I recall seeing a unit being built.  It was about to have the exterior fiberglass rear wall installed.  Oh how I wished I had taken pictures there.  If your interior rear interior wall is compromised with water getting inside on the bed, the proper repair might include removing the exterior fiberglass wall to repair the interior wall.  If that is your situation, you might want to call Phoenix for an estimate to have them repair the body damage.  They will be able to replace your fiberglass exterior rear wall if the damage to it interferes with a proper repair.

Phoenix is now under new ownership so what I am about to say might be different.  But maybe 6 years ago, someone bought an early model year PC with rear wall damage resulting in leakage.  Phoenix removed the rear wall, made proper repairs, and put it all back together like brand new for around $3000.  For you, being the slowest time of year it is in December for Phoenix, you might be able to schedule such a dramatic repair.  It might take them a day or two to get it done.  As well, Phoenix will know how to deal with your entry door leak and water damage.  Provide them with pictures to help them provide accurate estimates.  The cost might be worth the ride out and back and the few days spent there.  Nobody knows how to repair a PC better than Phoenix, and nobody has the right spare parts in stock like they do.  Though their hourly rate has increased, they are also dang efficient at doing the repairs costing you fewer hours of labor.  If our PC was in a significant accident causing water infiltration like you describe, Phoenix would be my place to run to.

I agree 100%. It is an option.

Concerning the dripping of water inside your PC from your brand new roof a/c unit, that does not sound right to me.  Something is wrong there.  I suspect the new a/c seal (or reused original seal) is deformed or seated improperly, allowing rain water and/or condensed water from the a/c unit back inside.

I suspect the same. It will need to be removed and inspected/resealed. After the dry-off last night, and even more rain, it is dry on the A/C and carpet below.  2o2

Call Phoenix.  Get some prices from them.

I have an unrelated question.  I assume your 2006 PC-2350 is built on either a 2005 or 2006 Ford E350 chassis.  Do you know what a stabilizer bar looks like?  If so, look under your rig and see if you have one for your rear axle.  You won't unless the previous owner installed one.  Also check your front stabilizer bar.  The Ford stock front stabilizer bar, the ends of it go into holes inside the front lower suspension.  If you see any gap between the bar and the end rubber grommets (I suspect you will) your front bar is worn.  Installing heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars will be well worth the extra investment for driving safety and comfort.  CLICK HERE  to read more about it.  CLICK HERE to read how to check your own suspension.

I have read both the links you reference, and many others here from you. I am one who 'lurks' for some time before posting to avoid repeating questions.
I am familiar with renewing the end link and frame bushings on the sway bar, upgrading to graphite impregnated 'urethane to avoid creaks and squeaks. Are you saying the bar itself wears out or the bushings? I have seen them bend to be unusable, but never 'wear out'
Rear sway and track bar, oversize front bar, shocks and airbags are all on the wish list as we intend on towing a trailer on festival outings. Not currently budgeted, however.  :-[  



Ok, looking out at the pond, rain has stopped for now. More checking to do. Pictures too. Thanks for the support.

Oh... the windshield leak is solved.  heartshower Dry and dusty up there.   2o2
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Volkemon

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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #16 on: December 09, 2017, 12:02:34 pm »
Alrighty... PICTURES!   :-D

Ok.. seems like the pictures dont show on preview  >( , so i will try to caption them in order..

1) Right rear corner
2) closeup of top right rear, showing crack in cap that leads me to believe it was folded back. Top sealing looks like it has had a few tries. Seam cover trim is VERY wavy.
3) top left of door gasket. It does contact the door, but I am not happy with the fit and wrinkle on the corner.
4) Water in lower step area. I have not dried it out yet today. The wood was rotted to bits, so i removed the debris to help the area dry. The steel has surface rust, but is still sound.
5) crack on the floor of the small rear compartment, further evidence the rear cap was peeled back a bit.
6) the floor of the small rear compartment, outer corner. There is evidence of white caulking repair, and a big gap that lets the water out.
7) Underbed compartment carpet dry as a bone.  2o2 The door itself seems to hold water, however. Looks like it gets in between the outer skin and the outside trim. When I opened the door, all this water came down the inside of the door. I may have to seal between the outer skin and the edge trim.

There ya go folks, todays report.  :-D We are taking the camper tonight to a concert, it will be the 'tailgating' base camp for several friends. NO rain forecast.  2o2 

I need to get it leak free by new years, we will be in it for 4-5 days then.

* Checked front sway bar, frame bushings look fine. I forgot it was the 'Twin I Beam' front, so no end links. Just the bushed hole on the lower arm. Fair condition, I have seen them 'metal to metal'.  I have put ~550 miles on the coach since buying it, I commute 60 miles a day and used it a few days and i use it to do errands to build operator experience. Had a few near misses parking it... its a bit bigger than my old microbus.  :lol But all in all, I have been happy with the handling.
 



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Ron Dittmer

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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #17 on: December 09, 2017, 01:06:57 pm »
At a glace the rear wall does not look bad, but like you say, when studying it closer, it appears the rear wall had pulled away.  I suspect a previous owner clipped a tree maneuvering the rig in a camp-site.....a very common owner error.  I assume the rear wall ripped away from the inner wall, screws and all.  The repair appears to have involved pushing the wall back into position and attached it in a less than ideal manner.  If you plan to own the rig for a long time, I advise to have Phoenix install a brand new wall and be forever done with the matter.  If you are like many people here on this forum who change motor homes frequently, then try your best to reinforce and increase the attachment points around the area of damage, and get the seam in proper alignment so the finish trim is straightened out.  Being in Florida, you might have a skilled local boat repair shop that can handle it all in a proper manner.  But watch out for the cost of repair.  They may charge nearly as much as a brand new wall installed by Phoenix.

About your storage door holding water in between the inner and outer skins.  I just looked at my 2007 2350 under-bed outdoor storage compartment door.  It has 3 weep holes  maybe 1/8" x 1/4" in size, perfectly manufactured.  They are along the bottom edge located outside the weather strip so collected water drips out onto the street.  Make sure your holes are free and clear of debris.  Maybe some original manufacturing dust and fiberglass bits have plugged up your 3 holes.
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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #18 on: December 09, 2017, 02:21:17 pm »
At a glace the rear wall does not look bad, but like you say, when studying it closer, it appears the rear wall had pulled away.  I suspect a previous owner clipped a tree maneuvering the rig in a camp-site.....a very common owner error.  I assume the rear wall ripped away from the inner wall, screws and all.  The repair appears to have involved pushing the wall back into position and attached it in a less than ideal manner.  If you plan to own the rig for a long time, I advise to have Phoenix install a brand new wall and be forever done with the matter.  If you are like many people here on this forum who change motor homes frequently, then try your best to reinforce and increase the attachment points around the area of damage, and get the seam in proper alignment so the finish trim is straightened out.  Being in Florida, you might have a skilled local boat repair shop that can handle it all in a proper manner.  But watch out for the cost of repair.  They may charge nearly as much as a brand new wall installed by Phoenix.



Your diagnosis agrees with mine.  :)(:
I would do the repair myself if PC does not do it. I am familiar with polyester resin and epoxy resin fiberglass construction/repair. The biggest hurdle I face is sourcing the seam cover. Tough item to ship.


About your storage door holding water in between the inner and outer skins.  I just looked at my 2007 2350 under-bed outdoor storage compartment door.  It has 3 weep holes  maybe 1/8" x 1/4" in size, perfectly manufactured.  They are along the bottom edge located outside the weather strip so collected water drips out onto the street.  Make sure your holes are free and clear of debris.  Maybe some original manufacturing dust and fiberglass bits have plugged up your 3 holes.

Just checked, there is one at either end on the underbed, 3 on the rear. All clear.
But that allowed me to see how they are made. Pretty simple- to disassemble, take out the four runner corners. Then the 4 aluminum locking pieces. This will allow the 'guts' to slide out, it looks to be aluminum sheeting sandwiching 3/4" polystyrene foam.
SO good to know for two things...
1) I can properly seal the lids using a bead of clear silicone before assembly.
2)On the back hatch, the support strut to the outside got ripped off the lid. I can see several tries for a repair that have failed. Its a holy spot.  roflol (Picture below) I can add some wood backer block in this area when i have the door apart.  2o2
Also just noticed... in that pic you can see the rubber corner, the aluminum lock strip in the upper left... and the missing lock strip on the strut mounting side. On to the 'parts needed' list it goes.


OK, and ANOTHER water leak found. This one from the outside shower unit.

In the inside picture, note the reflection in 'Lake Commode'  :lol of the drain pipe. The line of drips across the bottom of the outside shower unit made it an easy diagnosis.
 
Looking at the  outside picture you can see it pulled away from the wall a slight bit... that soaked the shelf in the bathroom.

The shelf is dished from previous water leaks there, guess I overlooked that on inspection.  >(
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jatrax

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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #19 on: December 09, 2017, 09:18:58 pm »
Quote
Call Phoenix.  Get some prices from them.
Very good advice.  And considering the price paid for this coach putting a few grand into it to have it professionally repaired and brought up to snuff seems well worth it to me.  Of course it is easy for us to spend others money, BUT we are talking about water leaks which are the #1 enemy of any RV.  A few grand now might save you a lot more in the long run.  Or at least give you a nice comfortable motor home you can enjoy instead of constantly worrying about.

I'll second Ron's thoughts on the A/C dripping as well.  That does not sound right.  It could be just condensation but I doubt it.  We have had our A/C run for many hours in very damp conditions with no condensation.  If I understand how A/C units work your interior air should be dryer not more humid if it is being run.  Of course maybe you have so much water coming in from the leaks that that is causing the condensation.  Still I would not just assume it is only condensation.

Another thought, since there appears to be rear end damage of some sort is whether anything else is bent.  Have you had it aligned yet?  Checked the tires for abnormal wear?  Not trying to cause alarm but if impact damage is suspected then the whole rig should be inspected thoroughly to make sure nothing else was damaged.

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Ron Dittmer

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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #20 on: December 09, 2017, 09:42:19 pm »
I have an unrelated question.  I assume your 2006 PC-2350 is built on either a 2005 or 2006 Ford E350 chassis.  Do you know what a stabilizer bar looks like?  If so, look under your rig and see if you have one for your rear axle.  You won't unless the previous owner installed one.  Also check your front stabilizer bar.  The Ford stock front stabilizer bar, the ends of it go into holes inside the front lower suspension.  If you see any gap between the bar and the end rubber grommets (I suspect you will) your front bar is worn.  Installing heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars will be well worth the extra investment for driving safety and comfort.  CLICK HERE  to read more about it.  CLICK HERE to read how to check your own suspension.

I have read both the links you reference, and many others here from you. I am one who 'lurks' for some time before posting to avoid repeating questions.
I am familiar with renewing the end link and frame bushings on the sway bar, upgrading to graphite impregnated 'urethane to avoid creaks and squeaks. Are you saying the bar itself wears out or the bushings? I have seen them bend to be unusable, but never 'wear out'
Rear sway and track bar, oversize front bar, shocks and airbags are all on the wish list as we intend on towing a trailer on festival outings. Not currently budgeted, however.  :-[  

The front Ford stabilizer bar end bushings (also called grommets) is what wears and does so very quickly.  The steel stabilizer bar itself is severely under-rated for the full load of a motor home, rendering it nearly ineffective.  Add the end rubber grommet wear and it's a decoration.

Making this clear for the other readers here....If you have a 2008 Ford chassis or newer, you have a better front stabilizer bar design direct from Ford.  Your bar is still under-rated for the load of a motor home, but your end links are not rubber grommets and don't have the quick-wear issue.
« Last Edit: December 09, 2017, 09:48:10 pm by ron.dittmer »
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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #21 on: December 09, 2017, 09:57:14 pm »
ANOTHER water leak found. This one from the outside shower unit.  In the inside picture, note the reflection in 'Lake Commode'  of the drain pipe. The line of drips across the bottom of the outside shower unit made it an easy diagnosis.  Looking at the  outside picture you can see it pulled away from the wall a slight bit... that soaked the shelf in the bathroom.  The shelf is dished from previous water leaks there, guess I overlooked that on inspection.
Boy oh boy, the surprises keep coming.  I feel for you.  Hopefully you can tackle each issue with successful permanent results.
« Last Edit: December 09, 2017, 10:01:40 pm by ron.dittmer »
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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #22 on: December 10, 2017, 09:12:15 am »
The front Ford stabilizer bar end bushings (also called grommets) is what wears and does so very quickly.  The steel stabilizer bar itself is severely under-rated for the full load of a motor home, rendering it nearly ineffective.  Add the end rubber grommet wear and it's a decoration.

Making this clear for the other readers here....If you have a 2008 Ford chassis or newer, you have a better front stabilizer bar design direct from Ford.  Your bar is still under-rated for the load of a motor home, but your end links are not rubber grommets and don't have the quick-wear issue.

I certainly admire your perseverance in concerns about the swaybar.  We are not currently operating the coach at anywhere near max GVWR. Guessing 500# cargo, 1/2 full freshwater, empty waste tanks. Full propane.
We did ~150 miles last night going to a show and back. Left late, realized we forgot a major food item  :beg, then left even later after returning home to get it.... we are now in a hurry driving a motorhome.  roflol

Very pleasant experience.  :-D :-D The handing of that coach is excellent. We kept 80-85 MPH down most of the interstate hwy travel. I followed whoever was going faster than us. Little bit of high speed tire imbalance, but nothing objectionable considering. VERY gusty winds coming from '2 O'clock' and '5 O'clock'. I was very happy with the handling, and the MOST important judge, Mrs V, was very comfortable.  2o2 went back to the kitchen to portion out desserts we were giving away later. She had no idea we were not doing 65.

For ~20 miles down US1, it was 3 lane jam packed traffic, close quarters, and 45-60 mph. Mrs V commented a few times about how happy she was that I was driving.. I think she was expecting us to 'kiss mirrors' a few times with other trucks. I have a lot of seat time in box trucks, 15-25 foot, and some in dump trucks, so I am pretty comfortable driving this coach. With wind, traffic and our speed, again I was pleased with the handling.

Parked in a small office lot, amazing a few onlookers as I slid in with the coach.  :-D I love that short wheelbase. My buddies F350 is 23' 'bumper to ball hitch' but wont go near where this baby slides in. My habit of using ALL the steering available also gave me an airbag code 34, prolly the clockspring.  >( Not surprising. Troubleshoot it later.

In 3 weekswe have our first festival, going for 5 days/4 nights. We will be a bit heavier in the coach, and probably with a light trailer.  (under 2K# gross) I will see what difference that makes im my opinion.   (nod)   But for now, I am very pleased with the handling the coach is giving me in its present form.

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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #23 on: December 10, 2017, 09:19:55 am »
ANOTHER water leak found. This one from the outside shower unit.  In the inside picture, note the reflection in 'Lake Commode'  of the drain pipe. The line of drips across the bottom of the outside shower unit made it an easy diagnosis.  Looking at the  outside picture you can see it pulled away from the wall a slight bit... that soaked the shelf in the bathroom.  The shelf is dished from previous water leaks there, guess I overlooked that on inspection.
Boy oh boy, the surprises keep coming.  I feel for you.  Hopefully you can tackle each issue with successful permanent results.

Well, this leak I really should have forecast.. the shelf is warped, I can see the gap outside on the panel..  :-[ So it really sorta funny. Little stress.

 It is dry season here... soon. (We did get 2 3/4 inches measured fri-sat however) I will be sealing up. And taking pictures. We have a festival in 2+ weeks.

Its messy stuff, but I am thinking of using 'urethane sealant for this. Any thoughts on what I should re-seat/reseal things with?
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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #24 on: December 16, 2017, 06:12:35 pm »
Polyurethane it is.  2o2

Major leak fighting today. First off, removed the cover from the seam on the back cap. The last person fixing things added several screws on the bottom...and didnt do so much on the top.  :beg Found several spots where the retention strip was off the surface by 1/8 inch. And there was a huge gap up top. I removed the trim between the rear cap seam and the underbed luggage door. There was a 'goober' of glue there that was impressive!  :lol  Anyhoo, I am VERY glad I pulled it off, as the seam has water leaking into it, and just a matter of time before the screws rotted. Sealed the seam and all the screwheads, then put the trim back on. I put it on upside down and drilled new holes BEFORE gooping everthing up. I wanted good threads for the screws, put new stainless screws in.  (nod)

Pulling the horizontal seam trim off turns out to be another key to the leak mystery...stay tuned!   :)(:





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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #25 on: December 16, 2017, 06:22:29 pm »
Remember the step leak?

I did. I had to scrub the entire cab top down before waxing. Taking a break from being upside down scrubbing, I started to do a hose check on the side door. Worked my way up, but found no water leaks that were unexpected. At the top corner the seal isnt quite right, and does leak. But this causes rolling drops down the inside of the gasket, which exit outside. Not in on the step.

Back to the main job, scrubbing down the passenger side bodywork I had a lot of water going above the horizontal seam trim. Just forward of the coach door.  And I could see from the white 'drools', it was disappearing somewhere..  :beg

Picture -8545 shows he water droplets behind the trim. They had a perfect path in to the step, and to the front where it always got wet first.

Sealed it up today. I think that might be the leak on the step.  heartshower    2o2 2o2
« Last Edit: December 16, 2017, 06:24:00 pm by Volkemon »
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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #26 on: December 16, 2017, 06:27:51 pm »
Got the potable water tank fill door sealed, and the utility shower access sealed. New stainless screws in also.  2o2

Might be near the end of the leak tasks..  (nod)
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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #27 on: December 16, 2017, 06:54:53 pm »
From everything you are showing, previous repairs were done extremely poorly.  You seem to be doing a meticulous job at getting everything taken care of as best as possible.  Doing it right = doing it once.....and looking good too.
 2o2

Keep up the good work.  It will be well worth it in the end.  Or should I say... well worth it for a new beginning.
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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #28 on: December 16, 2017, 10:19:54 pm »
Thanks for the taking the time to illustrate and report back all you've done here !         You da MAN,    Volkemon  !

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Re: Rain Water Leaks into coach.
« Reply #29 on: December 17, 2017, 08:46:33 am »
Volkemon, thanks so much for your narrative and photos on what you found.  Fortunately I haven’t had any leaks so far (knock on wood) but I am paranoid about this occurring.  Even though my unit is only about a year and a half old I frequently inspect the roof caulking and have touched it up to try and stay ahead of any issues.

One area of concern i have is where the roof and sides mate up with the front and rear fiberglass end caps.  I see on the sides in your photos this is where you found areas where water was getting in.  Is this just a simple U channel that snaps over the seam or how is it retained?  As you mentioned several screws were used are they just screwed in to the outer fiberglass skin or do they depend of the Luan plywood interior panel for their anchor?  Since I have not seen this splice joint disconnected other than your photos and I am a little confused as to how it supposed to work.  Any clarification you could provide would be greatly appreciated.