Sanicon Turbo Macerator

We have found the Sanicon system cleaner and quicker than the conventional gravity dump system.  However we recently developed a leak in the discharge hose and had to start using the alternate gravity system.  The hose leak occurred just past where it connects to the Sanicon pump discharge.  It appeared to be either a defective hose or was caused by the hose moving and wearing at a hose clamp.  I was concerned each time the pump was actuated the hose would extend that it could be cut where it goes through the fiberglass hose compartment or other point the hose might rub against.

I looked at the Sanicon recommended installation method and they show hard piping from the pump discharge to the hose compartment.  This makes a lot of sense in that it would prevent the hose from being cut or abraded by the hose movement each time the pump was used.  

Have others experienced hose failures due to abrading or cutting?  

Did Phoenix install the hose directly to the pump outlet or hard pipe from the pump outlet to the hose compartment as Sanicon recommends?

Part "L" in the Sanicon installation drawing below shows the recommended hard plumbing.

As I sit here reading this, I am getting ready to go and fix my outlet hose for the third time. I blew a hole in the discharge end last summer when I kinked the water hose that I use to extend the length of the hose to get to my septic system. It was near the end so just cut a foot off and used two good hose clamps to repair. While on a trip this winter I discovered a leak near where the hose goes through the fiberglass into the compartment. That was caused by a screw that holds the rear cap molding. I tried Gorilla glue which has held for several months till now. Yesterday, I was flushing out the tanks and the glue failed so will cut about a foot off the pump end and reclamp with two good hose clamps. Both repairs required removing the molded ends but using good clamps rather than the plastic clamps does the job. I also wrapped the hose with Gorilla Tape where it travels thru the fiberglass when I first got the unit so no problems there.

Our 2007 macerator hose has not yet leaked to-date.  Here is a picture of the area being discussed.  Phoenix used some kind of a plastic flange where the hose passes through.  You can see the gray colored plastic passing through the hole and one of two sharp-tipped screws but they do not contact the hose.


The flange resembles this.


Does every have such a flange?  Or did Phoenix eliminate it in recent years that the hose is getting damaged?

They used a collar with 2 pointed screws which puncture the hose. I replace screws and protected the hose from the screws.
You can actually fix the hose with some thin electrician's tape, which goes into the hose corrugations and seems to work for me.

No protective bushing or flange through the fiberglass was installed when we picked up our new  2016.  It was these sharp edges of the hole in the hose compartment fiberglass that I was most concerned.  However, the hole in the hose actually occurred close to where the hose attaches to the pump discharge near a hose retainer clamp (not the hose clamp to the pump discharge nipple as shown in Ron's photo).  Ron, thanks for the photo but the newer turbo unit is arranged a little different but the hose does go through the fiberglass as your photo shows.

I think if Phoenix had installed the plumbing with a hard pipe from the pump discharge to just inside the hose compartment as the macerator manufacturer recommended the hose failure could have been prevented.

I used electrical tape today as a temporary fix.  I haven't tried it yet so I don't know how well it will hold when subjected to the pressure of the pump.  I would feel much better if installed per the manufacturer's recommendation.

Ron the newer models like mine, "Turbo" unit maybe, are a little different.  My hose goes through the fiberglass wall like yours but no screws or bushing.  Of course they might have just forgot to put the bushing on mine.  I have been concerned about this as a wear point since I took delivery.  Based on this thread I think I need to do something about it.  The hose rubs on the sharp fiberglass edge during travel and perhaps worse when it is distended during pumping.

I wonder if it would be possible to run hard pipe from the distribution / pump box into the utilities bay through the hole in the fiberglass.  Would lengthen the hose a bit and prevent any wear on the hose.  Will take a look at that later today if it quits raining.

I too was a little concerned with the hose where it comes into the main drainage controls compartment.  So, I took a foot long section of clear vinyl hose, split it lengthwise, used silicon adhesive and put it around the entry hole.  Obviously, or not so obviously, the newly cut opening in the vinyl hose now forms a "C" shaped flange with the fiberglass going into the opening of the "C".   I see zero wear after 2 summers use.  I also used some cable ties to support the discharge hose between the turbo outlet and the hole in the fiberglass so even when running the Maserator, the hose doesn't sag on the outside.  Works well.

I agree.  A flange seems a really good thing to have.  I would call the factory and ask if they could mail you a flange.  Maybe they have some lying around.  Then install it yourself.  But hard-piping it through the hole does sound like a better idea.  Either approach would appear easy for a do-it-yourself type.

Today I replumbed the macerator using sch 40 PVC (1 1/2").
This past winter our hose blew out, due, I believe to the sharp protruding screw that holds the aft most hose clip. We jury-rigged it for a couple of months using Gorilla Duct tape and heavy duty plastic. The conversion was pretty straight forward, once I figured out how I was going to attack it, then find the right parts.
I removed the hose from the 90 degree elbow that screws into the adapter that PC inserts into the unit, replaced it with a rubber connector (1 1/2 X 1 1/4"). Attached a PVC elbow (1 1/2 X 1 1/4) to this then straight pipe with another elbow and ran it into the hose storage compartment. Another rubber connector as above hooked the new hose that PC sent to the pipe.  Did a tank flush and every thing seems to work OK. Little more to do to prevent any chafing or rubbing but seems like it will work. 
When I spoke with Bob he indicated they were aware of the problem and needed to address it.
Based on our experience with our previous PC I don't think the older macerators have the same issues as the new "turbo" units.  Would highly recommend that those with the turbo take steps to protect the hose between the unit itself and entry into the storage compartment.
Now on to installing the new valve that Anderson just sent to hopefully fix the overflowing water tank.
Tried to attach pictures but received a message that my IPhone image was to large.

Everyone has made some very good points...I never had any issues with either of my PC's and the pump set up but I did back the sheet metal screws out and replaced them with small bolts and nuts.  I would be a little concerned about "hard piping" the unit in any fashion since there is a fair amount of movement back there and making anything on the RV rigid always has potential to cause problems.  The flange thru the fiberglass is the answer I do think.  Best of luck.   Ron G.

On my Turbo model the hole in the hose was found to be between the Macerator pump discharge and where it passes though the fiberglass.  It developed near or under a retention clamp that is attached to the turbo "sump" and serves to restrain the hose to prevent it from drooping.

With the Sanicon hose it inevitably grows in length when pump pressure is applied.  It is this extension and contraction with the subsequent abrasion that I believe caused the hole in the hose.

My fix using electrical tape wrapped around the hose over the hole is holding at the moment but expect it to be only temporary until I develop another leak. I also added a grommet to the fiberglass hole as I know the hose moves back and forth across the sharp edges though the hole did not develop near the compartment pass through.   For a longer term fix I purchased a two foot section of 1 1/2" hard rubber hose and hose splice fitting from Tractor Supply.  I plan on running the hard rubber hose from the Macerator pump discharge into the hose storage compartment.  Once inside the hose compartment I will use the splice fitting to attach the Sanicon hose.  Hopefully the hard rubber hose will not experience the movement and with it's thicker wall will be more durable.  

 On my 2013  when the sonicon hose went bad and it was less than one year old I called Soni con and they sent me a new hose as a replacement.

On my new 2552 where the hose goes through the fiberglass housing there was no bushing at all. I wrapped the holes with several layers of duct tape so that it wouldn't rub against the side of the fiberglass.

We just picked up our first PC 2552 and are learning the fixes we need to make.  Thank you for all the discussion. 

Can someone send a picture of the changes they've made to keep the hose from rubbing on the opening?

Thanks - Don and Belinda

We just picked up our first PC 2552 and are learning the fixes we need to make.  Thank you for all the discussion. 

Can someone send a picture of the changes they've made to keep the hose from rubbing on the opening?

Thanks - Don and Belinda

We have a 2015 model 2551, I just took a piece of vinyl hose, split it lengthwise, put some silicone adhesive inside the vinyl and pushed it on around the opening.