Roller skid wheels

I have noticed that the new PC's have the toad plug moved up and coming out of the fiberglass bottom skirting for a good reason I am sure.  While I very, very seldom tail drag with my 3100 I did drag once  and it damaged the  hitch mounted plug (mine is a 2012), cracked it all to heck.  I replaced the plug and should have moved it up at that time but I did not.  I have long contemplated getting the bolt on roller wheels but had heard that they may in fact put more stress on the coach compared to merely dragging on the hitch  (rationale does not make sense to me) and of course you do lose about 2.5" so there is more likely hood that you would drag more often.   I now see PC's coming thru with the rollers to protect the Sanicon box so I assume Kermit feels comfortable? .  I went ahead and ordered a set of the same wheels from Etrailer, I have them on but have yet to take the coach out.  Does anyone have any opinions?  Thanks, Ron G.

Just to say, we've had a 3100 for four years - have never drug the rear end.

The rollers will drag more frequently and stress the frame because of the 2 1/2 " loss of clearance that occurs when adding them. A flat piece of steel about 3/8" thick welded to the frame or hitch as a skid plate might be a solution.

Frame stress from scraping is a lot about "blunt trauma".  Whether skid wheels, skid plate, or hitch, if it bangs down hard or catches pavement, that is very bad.  A gentile introduction, gradually increasing down pressure to a point is generally not concerning.  Surely less down force is better so if the skid wheels hang 2.5" lower than a skid plate, I personally would rather have a skid plate.  If the skid plate hung down significantly lower than the hitch, I'd consider having no extra protection.  But I say this with our older 2350 in mind.  Each rig has it's own considerations.  Our rear hitch has not been scraped yet, but the hooks for the blue towing safety cables and our quiet hitch recently made contact when loaded heavier this past trip.

Regarding the coily red electrical umbilical cord's mating plug on the hitch, ours is mounted with heavy duty wire ties.  That electrical box is at the ideal angle for connecting the umbilical cord.  I like how it secures so I have no plan to change it.

Here is our towing setup.  Unfortunately the picture was taken from the opposing side.  But it sort of shows the umbilical cord resting good, a straight entry to the plug, with limited pulling on the plug itself.  You can also see the blue cable hooks and Quiet Hitch hanging lowest, most prone to scraping pavement.

Frame stress should not be a problem since our Hitch is mounted to the same frame...  Just saying

We have the 2100 which hangs lower in the tail than longer models. Because we cracked the SaniCon, we added two roller wheels on the hitch bar and are glad for them.  You don't really loose 2.5 in. In looking at our rig, I would say less than an inch because other "things" are hanging low. The impact is first absorbed by the springs which reduces any frame "trauma." I will add that we first purchased one that was suppose to fit on the hitch, but size did not work so we went to the two welded to the hitch.

Thanks for all of your opinions!   I am still torn to be honest.  In three years of travel I have only significantly dragged (damaging the plug) one time so I guess that really does not warrant putting skid wheels on that really only work in ideal conditions like black top or concrete, do not work on loose gravel or striking anything hard at and angle.  With that all said.... I think I am going to remove them.   Thanks, Ron G.

For the record I destroyed the plug hanging down the first year.  Bob at the plant was not surprised and replaced it in the rear covering... like you see now.