Rust on interior of door frame

Bill,
We're going to be on Orr's Island Maine in August (and Acadia from 7/29 to 8/3), you could bring her up on your way to PEI and we could convince her that you didi the right thing---see you then!!!!!!!

Judi

All of your posts prommpted me to check my 2012 2552 and found the same problem rust.  I figure it is a result of my trip down to Florida last winter.  One question I have , did anyone remove the electric step before applying chassis saver.  It would seem that there probably is rust under the step.  I also found rust on other things under motorhome and plan treat them as well.  How far doesa quart of this stuff go?

All of your posts prommpted me to check my 2012 2552 and found the same problem rust.  I figure it is a result of my trip down to Florida last winter.  One question I have , did anyone remove the electric step before applying chassis saver.  It would seem that there probably is rust under the step.  I also found rust on other things under motorhome and plan treat them as well.  How far doesa quart of this stuff go?

I was all ready to apply a couple coats of protection.  It had ben many years since I looked under there and assumed it was screaming for help.  But our step box is hardly rusted, more like virgin metal with a little more than discoloration.  But what really stopped me was that I would definitely remove that step mechanism to do it right.  I figured given our particular situation, it was not worth  doing yet.

Our rig has not seen salt as of yet and stored indoors, apparently why so little degradation.

you're lucky.  When I got back from Florida last spring I knew I had rust underneath.  I did not look at the step  box until reading these posts.  I will definitely  do the step box and all the other areas that I did lasst spring.  You just confirmed my thoughts about how to do the job.  I hope i never have to repeat last year's trip down.  I drove the first  60 miles on black ice.  I had no idea I was doing so much damage to underside of my motor home.  Thanks for the advice.

WARNING - WARNING

We called Phoenix prior to using the chassis saver on our step.  The step is bolted on, then the plywood is laid, then the vinyl flooring.  There would be no way to access the bolt heads and keep the bolts from spinning thus never being able to tighten the bolts again.  That is why we did not remove the step.

Also, do not get  the chassis saver on any moving parts because it does bond metal to metal!

A quart does go along way.  It has the consistency of water but does set up quickly once exposed to air.


PS-Our rust is probably from our many trips to Florida in the winter as well but it's a small price to pay.  I'll take rust over snow any time.  

One of older posts dealing with my rust problem


http://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php/topic,1248.msg13939.html#msg13939

Most of the products discussed here to  stop rust are acid based and convert rust to iron oxide. Most farm supply stores  such as Tractor Supply sell products to treat rust, one of the names that it is sold under is Ospho, I also believe it is much less expensive. Autozone also sells a similar product as do most auto parts stores.  Rustoleum sells spray cans that are called Rust Reformer that works quite well on lightly( surface rust) rusted surfaces, it is kind of a primer/rust converter. Usually it is best to let the product dry and cure for 24 hours then follow up with a coating of paint. As stressed in other posts, don't get it on your skin, use eye protection, and have the area well ventilated. I have used these products on my RV's and classic cars and they work well if you follow the directions, money and time well spent.