Awning Screws

I have done a lot of de-rattling.  I think I found the last one.  The awning.  While filling up at the liquid gold station I wiggled the awning.  Yes it was a little loose.  Got and and checked the screws- over half were either loose or striped. 
Question-Do they screw into the frame or just the outer skin?  I have a fiamma 45 awning. 

I'll sneak another question in.  Sounds dumb-but- is holding tank 1 gray water?

I have done a lot of de-rattling.  I think I found the last one.  The awning.

Sorry, I don't have the answer to either of your questions, but I surely understand your mission to de-rattle.

I was quite anal in addressing rattles myself.
- microwave oven, front mounting screws were always loosening (used spiked "T" nuts & machine screws)
- antenna wings were slapping the roof (added thick felt pads under the wing tips)
- flip up counter rattled (added thick felt pads to cushion the clanging hinges)
- B+ area cabinet creaking/squeaking (added screws into floor of cabinets, to the steel roof below)
- stove grates rattled (placed a silicone pot holder across them, then Corian covers over that)
- contents in cabinets and drawers rattled (added soft rubber shelf liners and paper towels between pots)
- placed loose food products in small plastic crates, then inside cabinets
- replaced front coil springs with one rating lesser to soften the ride up front.
- put in the proper tire pressure based on the actual weight during trips.  Too much air makes more rattles.
- screwed on a treated 2x4 in the generator's right/rear steel protection plate to tighten it up to stop rattling.

We don't have a slide out so there is no potential noise from such a source.
We have thermal pane windows which makes the interior more quiet.
I ran out of places to improve upon related to noises.

On our '06,  tank 1 is the black.   

No idea on the awning question,  but makes me think I should check the screws as well.

I suspect they were not drilled in to metal  because PC installed different length box awnings on the same models. Try using fatter screws or just add more to snug it down. Mine was just suspended from the drip rail without any screws at all, so I drilled and added 4 self tapping/ wood  screws at the ends  to keep it from lifting when the awning is cranked in. Volkemon made a detailed thread on how to replace the Fiamma box type awning that solved the mystery for me. 

Search on Google, Amazon or Harbor Freight for "blind rivet nuts"

They will solve the problem

<starts banjo music playing> 

The screws are going into a layer of FRP and foam.  Take any loose screws out, then either insert a bamboo skewer or toothpick, and snap or cut it off flush to the surface. One skewer, maybe 2-3-4? toothpicks should take up any slack. I prefer skewers FWIW.    

If you like, put some of your 'sealant of choice' in the hole. Leave a little excess to make sure it seals under the screw head.

HAND tighten to a good tightness. Leave the cordless drill on the bench.    Wipe off any excess sealant expelled by the screw.

<cracks open another PBR and eats some pork cracklins. Turns up banjo music. >   

So, I used fatter screws and that seemed to work-for now!  I might add a few more self tapping screws.  I will look into the blind rivet nut.  Heck, I can use them on a lot of different things.   
Again, thanks to all.   
Still trying to find the answer on holding tanks numbers.  Which one is the gray tank?

When it comes to screwing into fiberglass sheathing (and tempered hard board) I try to use aggressive threaded screws and drill the hole to the ID of the screw threads.  Doing so reduces or totally avoids gel-coat fracturing.  Then remove the screw, add a little caulk, then re-screw to keep the water out and also to prevent the screw from coming loose.

So, I used fatter screws and that seemed to work-for now!  I might add a few more self tapping screws.  I will look into the blind rivet nut.  Heck, I can use them on a lot of different things.   
Again, thanks to all.   
Still trying to find the answer on holding tanks numbers.  Which one is the gray tank?

I don't know how they numbered them, but the black tank is under the toilet.   You may have to crawl under the rear end and follow the wiring/cable from the #1 control and see where it goes.

IF the controls are labeled #1 and #2. My best guess would be a prior owner labeled them based on the childhood... I have to #1 (pee)!  Or I have to #2 (poop).  Still might be a good idea to trace the control to the valce it operates.

Your PC and Ron Dittmer are the same model except his is a year older.

Don,  They are labeled from the factory at the bottom the the switch on the stove hood.   I am assuming the you are correct in that 1 is for grey (gray) and 2 is for black tank.

As I recall, my 2007 tank switches outside are labelled "BLACK" and "GRAY", not 1 and 2.

My control panel inside are labelled 1 and 2.  I don't know which is which until soon after we start our trips.  The gray tank fills up quickly while the black tank never gets past 1/4 full......until after I blend the tanks.

Mine is the same.  I empty them both at the same time.  We are supposed to be camping right now.  Unfortunately our RV is at a friends house 150 miles from here waiting til tomorrow to see what is leaking anti-freeze.  But when that's foxed I will try to pay attention to which is which.