Exterior Door Insulation/Rattles

Holy mackerel Batman!!!  Pow!  Ka bam!  Volk, what a job.  I can't say enough about your pics and write up.  It appears that strategically placed white round pan head screws and/or some low density foam (not much) would really solve any rattle problems.  I'm betting the water intrusion came in from a poorly, or wore out) sealed outside door trim. 
Just an idea.  Would a couple of weep holes (maybe 3)  in the bottom of the door solve and possible water build up?????

Volkemon,

You are the master at such research.  Thank you for that!

It appears that there is room for little improvements with regard to "gaps in insulation.  I assume that would be typical throughout the industry, typical throughout every wall and ceiling in a PC.

A little expandable foam applied in the voids, then trimmed flush after curing, would hold things nicely together as well as increase general insulation.  I wonder if adhering something like headliner material via spray-on contact adhesive on the back-side of the luan panel, would eliminate noises created through abrasion with other materials.

My thoughts are surely over-kill for most, but if someone has serious irritating door noises, it's not a time to cut corners.

To be honest, this is the first time I have read of a complaint over significant noises generated from within the entry door.  But after seeing Volkemon's research, I can understand how it is happening.

The reason why the walls and ceiling remain quiet is because they are vacu-bonded together.  I assumed the same applied to the entry door, but is obviously not the case.

Holy mackerel Batman!!!  Pow!  Ka bam!  Volk, what a job.  I can't say enough about your pics and write up.  It appears that strategically placed white round pan head screws and/or some low density foam (not much) would really solve any rattle problems.  I'm betting the water intrusion came in from a poorly, or wore out) sealed outside door trim. 
Just an idea.  Would a couple of weep holes (maybe 3)  in the bottom of the door solve and possible water build up?????

There was very little sign of water intrusion. I had the camper parked off level (Right side HIGH) for a short time, and it did rain hard. I had to put foil tape around the perimeter of the door to stop the water. I learned, and have ALWAYS parked level since, and had NO water come in. The foil tape pulled off paint when removed, causing rust spots. The "paint" looks as if it really powdercoat, with the attendant adhesion problems on the sharp edge. I am going to remove the ENTIRE door and frame assembly to fix that.

The radiant barrier I used in the cab floor would make a GREAT noise and heat solution, I have a bunch left over. (I got a 4' x 100' roll IIRC, it lives in the basement) This stuff - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflectix-48-in-x-100-ft-Double-Reflective-Insulation-Roll-BP48100/202092205 Its light, I could ship you a suitable sized panel.

I am gonna use it when I go in that door next time. Spray adhesive to the door, foil tape on the top and around the latch and window. Then sliiiiiide the panel down carefully.  Thats the plan.

 I want to replace the inner panel of the coach door with the same material I will be re-doing the bathroom walls and stall with - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glasliner-4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836  Little thinner, .090 vs .125 inches. The insulation behind would help 'make that up'.

A little expandable foam applied in the voids, then trimmed flush after curing, would hold things nicely together as well as increase general insulation.  I wonder if adhering something like headliner material via spray-on contact adhesive on the back-side of the luan panel, would eliminate noises created through abrasion with other materials.

The reason why the walls and ceiling remain quiet is because they are vacu-bonded together.  I assumed the same applied to the entry door, but is obviously not the case.

Yeah, I bet that door was put together on a table by someone who never went near the PC factory. PC never takes it apart, just puts an assembly in the hole.

I would NOT put in expanding foam. Very little return for a lot of problems if you DO want in later. Likewise spraying glue on the panel, it slides to install. Touching the glued surfaces before it was totally seated would be disaster. Disassembly would destroy.    And I am pretty sure you would need a special glue for the expanded polystyrene, as most contact cements will melt it in my experience.

I feel that a contiguous sheet of the Mylar bubble radiant barrier as I described in my reply to BangorBob would be the best overall solution. I will find out!   

I think you misunderstood me Volkemon.

I was implying to consider expandable foam with the inner panel removed, let cure, then trim flush so the inner panel could be slid back in.

Before sliding the inner panel back in, line the back side of it with headliner material which is a cloth surface with a 1/8" foam backing.  Once cured and trimmed, then slide it down into the door assembly.  The headliner material would make a nice ultra-thin pad between panels.

The end result would be that you could disassemble again if ever needed.

I think you misunderstood me Volkemon.

I was implying to consider expandable foam with the inner panel removed, let cure, then trim flush so the inner panel could be slid back in.

Before sliding the inner panel back in, line the back side of it with headliner material which is a cloth surface with a 1/8" foam backing.  Once cured and trimmed, then slide it down into the door assembly.  The headliner material would make a nice ultra-thin pad between panels.

The end result would be that you could disassemble again if ever needed.

Yep!  Totally read that wrong. Getting things ready for Easter, running in and out with the door, and sampling cookies...      ADHD in action.    Apologies, and THANKS for the patient correction. 

Volk,  Thanks for the offer for the reflectix.  I have lined the outside walls on the inside of my cupboards with this stuff.  It serves as a little insulation and noise reduction.  It keeps the temp in my cupboards down by 4-7 degrees in the desert summer.
I didn't explain very well about the expanding foam.  Ron's comment about filling the voids and trimming was a much better description of what I was thinking of doing.  I have done that process in a floor of an RV to fill huge voids.

Volk,  Thanks for the offer for the reflectix.  I have lined the outside walls on the inside of my cupboards with this stuff.  It serves as a little insulation and noise reduction.  It keeps the temp in my cupboards down by 4-7 degrees in the desert summer.
I didn't explain very well about the expanding foam.  Ron's comment about filling the voids and trimming was a much better description of what I was thinking of doing.  I have done that process in a floor of an RV to fill huge voids.

That reflextix is great in many uses. I cut pieces to friction fit inside all of the windows. It does an amazing job in extreme temps. Also it is a total blackout when desired. Using inside the cabinets is a great idea too, thanks
Sorry, hijacked it again....

Thanks to the great pics/etc.   Taking the door apart was probably one of the easiest things I have done on an RV.  Anyone the same top 2 side pieces of wood and styrofoam were loose in mine.  I used 3m 77 spray glue to glue the styrofoam in place.  Used a few dabs of silicone for the wood.  Put pink insulation in all the cracks and voids.  Green duct taped all seams.  In picture door 2 I added the small sheet of reflectix  just because I could.  Much more solid.  Have to take for test drive to see if this was worth it, which it sure couldn't hurt.

And there you go.  Good for you, thanks to Volkemon's research.  Hopefully it does the trick for you.

Absolutely, a huge thanks to Volkemon for his research and postings.  I would probably still be thinking about it.