Main Power Panel

I’m in the process of replacing the power distribution panel in my 2004 2350. It’s the old Elixer ELX45 and I’m replacing it with the Boondocker replacement. I hope someone has done something similar because I have some questions.

1). I cannot pull the panel all the way out. It feels like there’s wiring that is pulled tight and holding it back. I can’t see any but then again I don’t have the panel pulled out far enough to see all the way behind it.

2). It looks like the transfer switch from shore power to generator power is attached to the back of the panel. Is that correct?  Does anyone know how it’s attached because there isn’t one on the Boondocker unit so will need to reuse it.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated. I thought this would be a fairly straight forward project!

Thanks.

Update on my project.

The transfer switch was indeed attached to the back of the Elixir panel, fortunately just with 2 screws.  Turns out it was the wiring to this switch that was a little tight and holding the panel in.  The old panel is now out and the new Boondocker panel will soon be installed.

Another part of this project was to replace the flooded single house battery with 2 AGMs. The battery tray had to go to make room in the battery box for the AGMs. Battery cables are not connected yet.

Nice well protected compartment of the earlier years.  I wonder if two 6V AGM batteries will fit in there.

Nice well protected compartment of the earlier years.  I wonder if two 6V AGM batteries will fit in there.

Ron, I think I checked the specs and the 6v ones are a fair bit taller. They may have just fit but connecting the cables would be near impossible.

John - what group/size batteries are those? I am going to copy your idea when I get solar panels. On early model PCs it’s simple to run the wires down through the rooftop mounted refrigerator vent directly into the battery box.

John - what group/size batteries are those? I am going to copy your idea when I get solar panels. On early model PCs it’s simple to run the wires down through the rooftop mounted refrigerator vent directly into the battery box.

CalCruiser, they are Group 27 batteries. Lifeline AGM 100 amp hrs each. They are identical in dimensions to the Interstate flooded cell battery I took out. The battery tray is attached with about 8 screws so it was easy to remove.

As you know, the location of the power distribution panel under the fridge, and the batteries essentially beside the fridge under the wardrobe, makes it ideal for running cables from solar panels down through the fridge vent. No holes to drill in the roof!

What solar panels are you considering?  I’ve been looking at a package from Renogy that includes 2 160 watt flexible panels, charge controller, and all the wiring.

FWIW, I did the same double battery setup in the original compartment. Used group 31 trojans, as I got a good deal on them.

Removing the original slide out tray made just enough room. The only other concern is to connect the batteries in parallel, but use the + from one and the - from the other to connect, ensuing even use. Connecting the + and = of the same battery would have it worked more than the second battery that has more cable resistance.

YES -



NO -




source -  https://caravanchronicles.com/guides/how-to-connect-two-batteries-in-parallel/

I had a 2006 PC with a single batter & tray. I was able to remove the tray and set up a table on the outside with some 2 x 6 boards on top  to get boards to the  bottom of the opening. I made the cables long enough to connect batteries on the table and slide them in the opening carefully so the terminals didn't touch the frame.

These were flooded batteries and it was a pain sliding them out to check the water.