Re. Sandyc Replacing Norcold w. Dometic, & Options

I think you'll find with modern Dometics and Norcolds there are plenty of complaints all around, especialy re. the circuit boards.  After having the original non-electronic Dometic replaced in my father's '97 Roadtrek with a new Dometic with a circuit board, I found that the circuit board has a fair amount of continuous, parasitic 12-volt power consumption.  The board has operated fine, but after one year, the cooling system wouldn't handle hot weather as well as when new.  This, after being a zealot about level operation, cleaning under warranty to maintain their extended warranty, etc.  Of course, Dometic has loose standards for what's defined as effective operation, so they won't replace unit.  Both online research and the service center (off the record), say Chinese-made Dometics may not have ideal refrigerant mix from them or subcontractors.  Recall the Chinese melamine scandals with the substance in human and pet food a few years ago.  So, my father's Dometic cooling unit refrigerant seems to have prematurely aged.  

What I'm saying is, anymore, you may be no better or worse off with either a Dometic or a Norcold, but I think Norcolds may handle hot weather a little better.  I'd look into some other alternatives, too.  I've posted re. compressor units earlier but they do have their pros and cons.  However, there are some new, rather expensive absorption units like your Norcold that use entirely different refrigerants in them, and operate a little differently, but may have benefits. We'll see.

There are two problems that either refrigerator has.

The circuit boards are very susceptible to voltage spikes and out-of-voltage range operation.
This is easily prevented by using a power management unit, I think Progressive makes the best one.

The second problem, in hot weather the units need more cooling air flow behind the refrigerator. The 2552 has a fan and I have had no problem, my old 2551 and others that are not in a slide have no fan. I installed my own and it fixed the problem.

That's good to know re better control of voltage maybe being a way of keeping circuit board components from burning out.  Id assume this would be something to request on a new PC or add to any existing rig.

Re air flow, a fan was installed at time new Dometic was installed, knowing the small units in Class B motorhomes often needed all the help they could get, given their short distances from lower side air intake to upper side air exhaust vent.  Later, upon recommendation of Dometic and the service center, we had them pack several types of insulation on top and sides of refer within its enclosure so it'd have zero clearance where needed, and some baffles were constructed to better direct intake air onto the side of the coils facing the refer body, as clearance between coils and body of RV was also supposed to be minimal.  All this effort prevents hot air from pooling on top and upper sides which reduces efficiency of unit and heats up the inside counter and cabinet.  It all helps a little when parked, but I need to experiment with partially closing some of the lower air intake when driving, as turbulance (per the techs) may be keeping enough burner heat from the boiler to make it work at least as well as when parked, which still isn't too well when much over 90F for a sustained period.

A Phoenix Cruiser or any RV with a rooftop vent will often get a better chimney effect than units with an upper side vent, but sometimes a fan can help any rig, even if only the speed of cool-down.  And everyone, be it Dometic, Norcold, or anything else, should peer around the back, sides, and top (depending on rig, a mirror and a thin arm may be needed), and compare clearances with whatever is in your refer installation manual specs.  Both my repair shop and Dometic said many manufacturers have enclosures that are too big, thus reducing cooling efficiency.  Hopefully PC isn't one of them.  And Sandyc, good luck on your repairs!

The electrical power control/surge suppressor can be hard wired into the rig either by the manufacturer or a very knowledgeable and capable owner OR purchased as a separate, portable unit. We use the Progressive Industries portable 30 amp unit and love it. It has saved us from some very badly wired or faulty campground connections. There are several different brands and I haven't reviewed them lately but one selling point on the Progressive I liked is the replaceable parts - not having to replace the whole unit - if something zaps it and fries it. http://www.progressiveindustries.net/ 

It is an expensive item so we use a cable and lock to fasten it to the post when possible.

Several owners on the forum have a unit hardwired in their Phoenix.