As Gary has said, the 2 lines are "cold in" and "hot out" while the middle line is bypass. In normal use, the cold in and hot out are on (parallel to pipe) to allow cold water to go into the heater and hot water to come out. The bypass is off (across the pipe) to prevent cold water from bypassing the heater and going immediately to the hot out line.
For winterizing the 3 valves are just the opposite. The cold in and hot out lines are shutoff while the bypass is open. That way, no water goes into or out of the water heater, but rather bypasses the heater.
For winter, hopefully it is obvious you must drain the water heater by removing the white plastic plug which is near the left bottom of the water heater when you open the outside door of the water heater assembly. You also need to completely blowout the water lines and drain the fresh water tank. Instead of blowing out the water lines, you can instead suck in RV Antifreeze as the video shows.
To dewinterize, after you set those 3 valves to their normal position you fill your fresh water tank, turn on the water pump and open a hot water faucet to allow cold water to refill the 6 gallons the water heater tank holds (and you drained our when winterizing) and then flow strongly out of the faucet. I use the kitchen sink faucet for that. Once I get a good flow out of the kitchen faucet, I turn it off then go back to the bathroom and open the shower hot water line and get a good flow, shut the shower off and open the bathroom sink hot water line.
If you have filled the pipes with RV Antifreeze you MUST fully flush both hot and cold water lines BEFORE you switch those 3 valves and fill the water heater. RV Antifreeze is not poisonous, but tastes HORRIBLE and you never want any in your hot water heater... Never!