Water Valve Positions

  We dewinterized and hit the road. The valves under sink/behind kitchen drawer are in correct position per owners manual. Lots of hot water in tank, but..no hot water through the line to any faucet. We get a dab in kitchen and then cold again. We get a bit of warm in the bathroom sink but not hot. No apparent air or whatever blockages. Did miss something ? We tried switching each valve individually as well and no success. Probably something simple. Any thoughts?

Hank
2019 PC Model 3100
On the road (tonite in West Des Moines KOA)
Enroute to Ft Wayne IN via Geneseo Illinois

Hi Hank,

I know you stated the 3 winterizing heater bypass valves are in the correct positions, but it sounds like the middle one is not fully closed.  It might be getting stuck in an "almost closed" position leaving you to think it is fully closed.  Try working it more tightly.  Open it fully, then close it tightly a few times.  You just might see that with each attempt, the handle on the valve travels more.

I am assuming you have standard multi-turn valves, not 1/4 turn ball valves.

If you have 1/4 turn ball valves, it could be the valve is open when you think it is closed.  Maybe the handle on the valve was mounted incorrectly which would therefore mislead you.

Turns out the center valve was installed incorrectly. 90 dgs off. Got a fresh look from a remote rv tech and voila...hot water works! Tks to all for help.

Hank

Turns out the center valve was installed incorrectly. 90 dgs off. Got a fresh look from a remote rv tech and voila...hot water works! Tks to all for help.  Hank

Hi Hank,

It is very easy to mount the handle on a ball valve such that closed-is-open and open-is-closed.  It sounds like that was your problem.

Similarly,  I had problems with hot water flow.  Water would fill heater tank. Flow of heated water to kitchen and bathroom was blocked.
Valve in line from water heater seemed reluctant to turn and degree of difficultly was beyond normal.   I disassembled valve and dietrus from manufacturing process came out. In flushing I saw typical shavings,  slivers, and dirt.
Purchased used and with only 10k miles,  I suspect the prior owner also found the hot water unusable

Similarly,  I had problems with hot water flow.  Water would fill heater tank. Flow of heated water to kitchen and bathroom was blocked.
Valve in line from water heater seemed reluctant to turn and degree of difficultly was beyond normal.   I disassembled valve and debris from manufacturing process came out. In flushing I saw typical shavings,  slivers, and dirt.
Purchased used and with only 10k miles,  I suspect the prior owner also found the hot water unusable

It would seem that the previous owner bypassed the HWT for winterizing or HWT repair and was never able to set them back properly again.  I have never ever turned my 3 bypass valves located under the kitchen base cabinet.  After 14 years, I assume turning them now could introduce water seepage.

My two tiny fresh water drain valves (hot & cold) in my under-bed storage compartment are terrible little multi-turn types.  I think Phoenix used them for their low-profile style, unintrusive inside the storage compartment.  They are difficult to open and close, but I am able to make it happen.  Tiny 1/4 ball valves would be great there.  I just don't want to mess with something that has never been trouble.  I close them in the spring and open them in the fall and they have not leaked so far.