Had a mishap with the passenger side window.
I was not watching closely, but I had a friend riding with, and he tried to 'help' the window down.
Not sure why he did that, but next thing I knew he was holding it up from disappearing into the door!
Window regulator replacement is todays project.
This is intended to be an overview, and does not contain detailed procedures. This is NOT a difficult job for a beginner, but if in doubt, PLEASE dont go ripping things apart.
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Welcome to my passenger door. We will be referring to this during disassembly.
First, remove the inside door cover, and peel back the vapor barrier to get things looking like the picture above. My vapor barrier was a pain, it wanted to rip. You WILL be reusing this, so go slow.
Now see the zip tie holding the regulator and door handle cables together? Remove it and put it aside. If you have to cut it, GET ANOTHER. It is not optional.
The factory rivets have a steel mandrel in the middle. This has to be punched out with a small (~3/16) punch and 10-12oz hammer. (Bigger is NOT better here) There are (7) rivets total, two are not shown above. These are the ones we start with.
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This is a view of one of the window rivets. I lowered the window until they were lined up with the access holes. (The mandrel is out already, so you will see a 'post' in the middle of yours)
The biggest risk when driving the mandrel out is window breakage. I put the handle of my wire brush between the bracket and door to stabilize it. The mandrel came out with 3-4 sharp raps.
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After getting the mandrel out, use a 1/4" drill and drill out the aluminum body. Congrats, this is the hardest part of the task.
(This same procedure is used to remove all 7 rivets, though the others do not need the support behind them when hammering)
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After removing the 7 rivets, two upper channel nuts and the power connector, tilt the assembly so it looks like this. Remove it with care, up and to the right. Careful! NO tugging or yanking, things can snag on the way out.
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ANY mechanic worth their name does NOT leave trash in the door. 
Just because you or the customer cant see it, does not make it acceptable practice. A magnet collects the mandrels, needlenose pliers and fingers can do the rest.
It can make noise, collect dirt, clog drains, even lead to bi-metallic corrosion causing rust in the door. Its not just me being a neat freak. You should take the debris out, then vacuum the area.
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POST MORTEM
The motor, drive gear, housing...EVERYTHING looked fine. The cables? You can see the bottom one has a knot in the end. I strongly suspect that my friend put downward pressure on the window, and this caused slack in the cable. Then it came off the guide, wrapping itself into a knot as the motor rotated. IF this was a rare part, I bet one could reassemble things and make it work. But new isnt that dear ($90) so in it goes.
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REASSEMBLY
The replacement hardware kit contains new nuts and rivets. I dont use them. I prefer using nylon locking nuts and bolts.
Check to see if your rivet gun even takes 1/4 rivets, my handheld ones did not. My air riveter did, but wouldnt fit in the door access holes.
And I dont care for the smaller washer and head size on the replacement nuts, I will use the original. The bag of parts will go in the spare parts bin.
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Reassemble your door, leave all fasteners loose at first. I removed the speaker (red star) to allow access to the motor mount bolts.
Now look at the YELLOW STAR on the zip tie. MAKE SURE this zip tie is installed, and the door cable lays on TOP of the window cable. This ensures the cable guides do not catch on the window assembly was it goes down, BREAKING YOUR NEW REGULATOR.
There is a VERY good reason for that zip tie. Respect it.
If your cables are crossed differently at this point, STOP and correct it.
Tighten the two window bolt assemblies (not shown) then snug up the nuts on top. You will see that there is adjustment side to side for them. Center the nuts and tighten. Then go and tighten the others.
Plug in the power connector, and test the window. If it binds going up, loosen the top nuts when the window is up and tighten them again. I spray dry teflon lube in the channels to lubricate the glass. Dont use 'oily' lubes, they attract dirt.
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Use foil tape or a good substitute to secure the vapor barrier to the door.
See the yellow/red star? Make a copy of your receipt, the original will fade. Fold it up and put it in a zip lock. Tape that to the door.
This assembly is lifetime guarantee. Having the paperwork there will REALLY help in using that warrantee should I (or the next mechanic) have to do this again.
Now reassemble the door, test all functions, and celebrate a job well done.
