Braking - pulls to the left

Hi,

We have a 2012 Phoenix Cruiser 2551 Slide and we noticed that it has started to pull to the left when braking.  We had brake lines, brake pads and rotors checked and nothing there. Any ideas as to what is going on would be appreciated. Thanks.

Tire pressure and/or alignment.  And I presume when you had brakes checked, you had both front and rear brakes pads and rotors checked.

Well... if the inspection diagnosed no brake problems, check the condition of the radius arm bushing.

Video on repair:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=svlEDE6Wfcw

If the bushing is worn/weak it can be pushed back from braking forces, and cause 'pull'. Usually will cause erratic steering, and a 'hammer like' sound under your feet when hitting bumps.


Were you there for the inspection of the brake lines, brake pads and rotors?  The flexible brake lines can swell and clog internally, and cause the caliper on the clogged side not to operate, making the vehicle 'pull' to the working side. It can also hinder the return of the fluid to the master cylinder reservoir, and this can cause the caliper to drag and cause a pull to that side.

Internal degrading of the flex lines cannot be found from a visual inspection, generally some fluid is bled from the caliper while pressing the pedal to ensure there is flow going to the caliper. If the side opposite of the pull has no/little fluid coming out- clogged flex line.

A sticking caliper can be found by lifting both front wheels off the ground, applying the brakes, and seeing if either wheel sticks after pedal release. If letting a bit of fluid out of the bleeder stops the caliper from sticking- clogged flex line.

A flex line can be clogged and still apply brakes, because the master cylinder applies hundreds of PSI to the caliper and forces it through. The return force from the caliper is not enough to overcome the clogged line, and causes the caliper to drag until the fluid slowly gets back to the reservoir. (or you release the pressure using the bleeder valve)


Hope that helps!   Good Luck! 

If you are 'on the road' and need to diagnose, heat can tell you a little. Drive the camper for ~20 miles or so, then (in a safe place!!) get out and feel the lug nut area of the front wheels. Be careful at first, it MIGHT be HOT. You are looking to see if one side is hotter than the other, indicating a caliper is not releasing.

I see you have a 2012, when I got my 2006 the brakes were fine. I was driving the camper to work for a few days to 'get to know her' , 60 mile round trip. On my way home on day, I noticed the acceleration was a little slower than usual. Then it was pulling right slightly, but straightening out when the brakes were applied. I hopped out at the exit ramp stoplight to check the front temps, and right front was HOT. I pulled over at a gas station, and opened up the bleeder on that caliper. (If the flex line was not allowing the fluid to return, the fluid would spurt out of the bleeder and release the caliper)  No go. :(   I let it cool for ~15 min, and drove the last 10 miles home. It got hot again... caliper was seized. Was working fine that morning...    But the brake fluid was BLACK when I bled it out...so lack of maintenance was the cause.

New calipers, pads, flex lines and rotors has it braking like new ever since!

that is the kind of knowledge that the mechanics at an rv repair shop should have!  thank you very much!   I had heard of the heat thing and doing a full line bleed.  someone will have to pull the wheel.
I just need to find a good mechanic here in Tucson!   

Hi,

We have a 2012 Phoenix Cruiser 2551 Slide and we noticed that it has started to pull to the left when braking.  We had brake lines, brake pads and rotors checked and nothing there. Any ideas as to what is going on would be appreciated. Thanks.

Volkemon has provided some excellent advise for checking things without a mechanic.

A 2012 E450 is not that old so I feel that most likely the mechanic over-looked an issue with the right front (passenger side) brake caliper.  It is not doing it's job for some reason.  Most common, one or both of the caliper slide pins are not sliding.  A less common issue is when one or both caliper pistons get hung up.  In either case, it is easy to trouble shoot, but it does require removing the caliper to test the movement of the caliper pins and pistons.  Most mechanics would replace the caliper with the mounting bracket where the slide pins are, but a talented miser can sometimes get the original caliper working again.

You do live in Tuscon, AZ so just maybe the desert heat has damaged something else within the braking system.  Caliper slides and pistons typically hang up from corrosion of sorts which is much more common in high humidity, rain, snow, salt spray, etc.

Thanks so much for the helpful replies. We are checking the calipers today.

that is the kind of knowledge that the mechanics at an rv repair shop should have!  thank you very much!   I had heard of the heat thing and doing a full line bleed.  someone will have to pull the wheel.
I just need to find a good mechanic here in Tucson!

Find a tire and  alignment shop (in addition to the Ford dealerships) that does a lot of light trucks. Maybe ask the local used RV dealers and  Uhaul places  who they recommend . Leave the  RV specific stuff for the RV repair shop.

that is the kind of knowledge that the mechanics at an rv repair shop should have!  thank you very much!   I had heard of the heat thing and doing a full line bleed.  someone will have to pull the wheel.
I just need to find a good mechanic here in Tucson!

The heat thing may be your best bet to narrow down what the issue could be.   If  the caliper slides are sticking, they generally cause the pad across from the piston to wear much quicker. It will generate heat as you drive. If the caliper slides are stuck with NO movement, heat wont build up and the pad on the PISTON side of the caliper will show greater wear.

The brake fluid is SUPPOSED to be flushed every 2 years. Nobody does.    So your 2012 has probably missed 4 flushes so far. That can be rough on the internals in the calipers and lines. Having the system flushed may be a $2-300 job if done alone, but STRONGLY advised. Do it as part of this repair and you should save a little over doing it alone.


Wanna cry once, and drive safe?  Have the system flushed, replace all flexible brake lines, replace calipers and pads, use a trusted mechanic to decide whether to turn or replace the rotors. Brakes, guns and parachutes - if you REALLY NEED them, and dont have them, you may not have a future need for them. 

  I did not take my own advice...  I flushed the front, replaced lines, pads, calipers and rotors.....  but never touched the back, they were working fine. Now here a year or so later..... suddenly I am feeling the rear brakes are not working well. On gravel or wet roads under hard braking the ABS is engaging in front...    Telling me the rears are not doing their job. With the trailer and its brakes, it doesnt do it. Further pointing to a rear brake issue.   

Well, its my not 'finishing' biting me in the butt. I bet the rear calipers are corroded JUST LIKE THE FRONT were...    Which I knew... and now its just the countdown to when it fails. And if it fails like the front, it will stick.  Wont pull to the side, but will generate heat. That can boil fluid, ruin my inside tire, CATCH FIRE... Yeah, now I have to replace them.




Finding a good mechanic is tough. I am one, so up until recently I was the ONLY one touching my rides. Putting the front springs in my camper was the first time this century I paid a mechanic.    And it went from a $600 job to a $1000 job.    Once our barn is built I will have all the room I need to work on it. 

Find a tire and  alignment shop (in addition to the Ford dealerships) that does a lot of light trucks. Maybe ask the local used Rv dealers and  Uhaul places  who they recommend . Leave the  RV specific stuff for the RV repair shop.

↑↑↑  WORDS OF WISDOM ↑↑↑  Thanks CalCruiser!!