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Winterizing

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fandj

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Winterizing
« on: October 22, 2016, 07:57:05 am »
I will be winterizing my 2552 for the first time in the next few days.  I have watched the Phoenix video on winterizing and plan to follow it.  In a previous camping trailer I used an air compressor set to 40 psi connected to the city water connection to blow out as much water as possible prior to introducing RV antifreeze on the inlet side of the water pump.  As in the PC video I then opened each faucet until I saw antifreeze coming out.  Some people with similar trailers only blowed out the lines and did not use antifreeze and reported that was sufficient.

Does anyone else blow their lines out?  If so do you follow up with antifreeze?  I noticed there was no mention of the waste tank flush water lines in the PC video.  Was that an oversight or do these lines/valves self drain so no chance of freeze damage?  Any other tips on winterizing.

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Doneworking

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Re: Winterizing
« Reply #1 on: October 22, 2016, 08:54:47 am »
I practice the technique that "more is better".    I blow out the lines as you describe, then I add antifreeze in about twice the quantity that is advised.  Why not?  It only costs a couple of bucks a gallon and I just figure two or three extra gallons is a cheap insurance.  

I find the three drain valves on our PC to work better and more completely drain everything than the drains on any other RV we have ever owned.  They are well positioned and designed.

I have a small "plumber's helper" made for sinks.  I use it to evacuate water in the P traps on all the drains, then add antifreeze into them by pouring about a cup or more into the drain.  I put a goodly amount in the fresh water tank and pump it for a few seconds to make sure the pump is protected.   Also, I open the dump auxiliary drain (leaving the black and gray drains closed since they have some antifreeze in them) and let any excess water in that system drain out.  I leave that drain slightly cracked open all winter.  

I "milk" any excess fluids out of the Sanipump system hose and I leave the black and gray tank flush valves on the Sanipump system in the open position.  

The easiest thing for me to forget is the outside shower hose and head.  I never have used those outside shower connections more than twice in thirty plus years of RVing.  So, it is easy for me to forget.  

When I finish all this procedure, I go into the shop  and drink a cup of coffee and do something else for an hour or two, return to the scene of the crime and go over everything mentally as I look at it to make sure I have done it.   I once developed my own check list and I suggest it is a good idea.  You can keep it by the hot water heater cutoff valve for convenience.  Actually, I don't use the checklist until after I do the work, I guess just to see how much more forgetful I am this year as compared to last year  :help

That reminds me:  I also remove the drain plug on the water heater and leave it out all winter.   Most say that is not necessary, but again .....insurance.  

Paul  (aka the Winterizer Overkiller)
« Last Edit: October 22, 2016, 08:57:26 am by Doneworking »

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Ron Dittmer

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Re: Winterizing
« Reply #2 on: October 22, 2016, 09:20:35 am »
Paul's got it right by me  ;)

I don't winterize only because our PC is garage kept and maintained at 55-60 degrees.  I do blow out the lines just in case the rig sees freezing temps during the winter, like if I ever had to back it out to service the garage furnace hanging above it's hood.  I don't add anti-freeze to the fresh water tank so if I had to back the rig out for a short time, I would place a space heater in there.

The fresh water tank and hot water tank still hold water after being drained.  The hot water tank is designed to hold 1/2 gallon of water that gets frozen.  I learned of that when replacing the electric heating element.  The water remains to assure the electric heating element remains submerged, just in-case the owner plugs the rig into 110v and does not realize his hot water tank is switched  to electric.

Funny that when I blow out the lines, almost nothing comes out.  I do first open all faucets, hot and cold, and let it drain that way.  Then I close them up and blow the lines out to find that it's nearly a waste of time.  Still I do it for peace of mind.
« Last Edit: October 22, 2016, 09:25:36 am by ron.dittmer »
Ron (& Irene) Dittmer

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Barry-Sue

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Re: Winterizing
« Reply #3 on: October 22, 2016, 09:47:36 am »
I would add 2 additional steps.  Turn off the 120V circuit breaker for water heater and I blow out the lines for spraying  the gray and black tanks.

As Paul pointed out a good check list is important.  Here is the check list I use to put our PC away for thr winter.
 
1   Water Heater Breaker OFF (I MARKED IT RED FOR ID)   
2   Water Heater in BYPASS   
3   Drain Water Heater   
4   Drain Fresh Water Tank   
5   Sanitize Fresh Water Hoses   
6   Sanitize Black/Grey Hoses   
7   Add Anti-freeze   
         A.  Kitchen Sink / Sprayer   
         B.  Toilet   
         C.  Bathroom Sink   
         D.  Shower   
         E.  Fill Each Trap   
         F.  Sani-Con   
         G.  Blow out tank flush lines   
         H.  Drain Black & Grey Tanks   
8   Clean A/C Filters   
9   Remove Smoke Detector & Battery   
10   Remove Thermometers & Batteries   
11   Move GPS to Car   
12   Remove Remote Controls   
13   Lubricate Antenna   
14   Lubricate Entry Door   
15   Lubricate Steps   
16   Change Generator Oil   
17   Check Motorhome Air Filter   
18   Condition Diamond Shield   
19   Add Thetford Toilet Seal Conditioner   

We don't have an outside shower

« Last Edit: October 22, 2016, 09:51:05 am by Barry-Sue »
Barry and Sue 
Current   2012 2551 w/Slide
Previous 2008 2350 w/Slide

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TomHanlon

Re: Winterizing
« Reply #4 on: October 22, 2016, 11:51:16 am »
I do what is said above plus I add Sta bil to the gas tank. Then I fill the gas tank, drive around to mix it up. Then I run the generator for 15 to 30 miniutes to get the mixed gas into it.

Barry/Sue, congrads on becoming the third PCPC. 1000 post.  :)(:
« Last Edit: October 22, 2016, 11:53:44 am by TomHanlon »

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rdalton

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Re: Winterizing
« Reply #5 on: October 22, 2016, 12:29:53 pm »


...   Also, I open the dump auxiliary drain (leaving the black and gray drains closed since they have some antifreeze in them) and let any excess water in that system drain out.  I leave that drain slightly cracked open all winter.  

I "milk" any excess fluids out of the Sanipump system hose and I leave the black and gray tank flush valves on the Sanipump system in the open position....

Paul  (aka the Winterizer Overkiller)

Paul,

What is the 'dump auxiliary drain?   Good thought on leaving the valves open.

Thanks so much for your input, that was really helpful.

Rob

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Michelle Dungan

Re: Winterizing
« Reply #6 on: October 22, 2016, 05:14:23 pm »
Reading all this makes me glad I'm living in San Diego!

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Doneworking

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Re: Winterizing
« Reply #7 on: October 23, 2016, 08:23:05 am »
Rdalton, by dump auxiliary valve I meant the 3" conventional sewer valve that can be used to dump if you don't want to use the Sanicom pump system.  It is, essentially, the same valve all RVs have if they do not have a macerator.  Mine is plumbed just ahead of the macerator pump and after the valves on the black and gray tanks.  

Before we bought this PC, we had a Roadtrek 210 and our home  the car garage was built with a nine foot door on the third.   The RT fit in there and no winterizing for yours truly during those years of ownership.  Like Ron, who has the capability of garaging his PC, we would just grin at winterizing.   Now, we have to store the rig in an enclosed RV storage place about three miles from the house and no climate control.   Boy we miss the rig in the garage, but sure do enjoy the extra room of the PC.  

Michelle, I am so sorry you live in San Diego (one of our favorite areas in the country) and miss all this winterizing fun roflol

Paul
« Last Edit: October 23, 2016, 08:25:03 am by Doneworking »

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fandj

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Re: Winterizing
« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2016, 05:35:34 am »
Thanks all for your winterizing tips, they were most helpful.  Sad to have to put the PC to bed but hopefully it will only be for a couple months when we hope to head to Florida.

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Sarz272000

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Re: Winterizing
« Reply #9 on: November 24, 2016, 04:54:15 am »
What about the coach and van batteries? If stored outside in cold climate?

Ron

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fandj

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Re: Winterizing
« Reply #10 on: November 24, 2016, 06:11:27 am »
Ron,
I have turned my coach battery disconnect switch off after making sure the 6 volt batteries were fully charged.  I periodically check to insure the battery voltage is 12.6 or higher.  If it drops below this I will switch my batteries and solar back on and bring the batteries back to full charge.  I could connect to shore power to recharge but I prefer the solar as it has a higher charging voltage than the converter.  The solar charges faster and also helps stir up the electrolyte to reduce stratification.

I have determined even with everything turned off in the coach off I still have a small drain on the battery.  To prevent this the battery disconnect switch is turned to the off position.

As to the van battery I will periodically check it as well.  If the voltage drops I will connect to shore power and use a small 2 amp charger connected into one of the 12 volt outlets on the dash to recharge.  I would like to have the ability to use my solar charging system to recharge the van battery but currently can't do that.

This is my first winter with the PC and the above is what I have started doing as I have found it worked on previous units but others may have different recommendations.

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keelhauler

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Re: Winterizing
« Reply #11 on: November 24, 2016, 09:51:09 am »
You know the little momentary switch to left of steering wheel?
When the switch is pushed you are charging Ford battery from house batteries or solar.

You say, But I can't sit here and hold it on all day.

No problem, just replace the switch with an of-off switch. I bought at Advanced Auto Parts. It is identical. Pop out the old switch, unplug wires from old switch, plug back into new switch, push new switch back into hole. No skill required.

I leave this switch on when RV is in storage and let my solar charge all 3 batteries.

There is an electrical interlock to be aware of. When the switch is on your step will go in, the same as if you turned your ignition switch on.

This will not harm anything. PC used to use an on-off switch and changed it to a momentary for some reason, but I have found no reason why it can not be left on when in storage, or when you want to charge Ford battery.



John

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Sarz272000

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Re: Winterizing
« Reply #12 on: November 24, 2016, 11:20:28 am »
What if you don't have solar or power at storage site? Remove batteries?

Ron

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keelhauler

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Re: Winterizing
« Reply #13 on: November 24, 2016, 11:43:55 am »
Just disconnect the Neutral-Black cable. Charged batteries will not freeze.



John