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General Discussion / Re: Vroom Install Question

« on: January 10, 2025, 05:26:49 pm »

I watched that Vroom video.  It sure looks like an excellent conversion/upgrade for the Schwintech.  I wonder if Vroom sells complete kits for RV companies to purchase, or do RV outfitters have to buy the Schwintech, then upgrade to Vroom.....basically buying both systems.

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General Discussion / Re: 911 - Charger Death?

« on: January 06, 2025, 01:15:50 am »

I wasn't aware AGM batteries could be purchased for $183, my ignorance there, although Donc13 uses GPL-4CT 6v AGM batteries which a quick Google come in around $400 each.

Keep in-mind that I bought my pair of 6V AGM batteries nearly 10 years ago.  Prices go up on everything.  I have no idea what Sam's Club sells them for today.

Full-timing 5 years on a pair of 12V wet acid batteries?  You did great!  Maybe you broke some kind of record.

You should not run off 12V from the inverter/charger without at least one battery in the 12V circuit, whether it be a good one or one needing replacement.  I can only guess why.

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General Discussion / Re: 911 - Charger Death?

« on: January 04, 2025, 08:35:49 am »

Personally, I use 2 high capacity 6v AGM  batteries in series instead of a huge 12v or 2 12v batteries wired in parallel.  I use 2 Lifeline GPL-4CT 6v AGM batteries wired in series to get 12v output.

I have the same as donc13, two 6V AGM batteries, though I bought ours back in 2015 at Sam's CLub for about $183 each.  They remain in good service today.

Like donc13 says, a pair of 12V batteries will be only as good as the worse one as it brings down the better one.  In an emergency situation as you found yourself in, determine which battery is the worse of the two and take it off-line, then try to reawaken the better battery by itself and live with one battery until you can replace both.  That will get you through your difficult situation.

My experience with two different pairs of 12V wet acid batteries is that we got only 2 good years, one marginal year, and one problematic year.  Our pair of 6V AGM batteries is coming up on 10 good years.

One practice I have been doing for some years now is when not using our PC, I disconnect all the batteries from the house and chassis, charge them until full, then forget about them until it's time to use the motorhome.  When it's time to use our PC, I charge the batteries back to full which happens quickly, reconnect, and all is well.

I used to keep the batteries connected and maintained them on occasion but found that to be a lot of work with occasional gaps of forgetfulness.

My earliest years was keeping the rig plugged into 120V with the on-board inverter maintaining the batteries.  That was the worst.

I learned every wrong way on battery maintenance.

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General Discussion / Re: Draining the fresh water tank

« on: December 26, 2024, 04:10:22 pm »

Gaining enough longitudinal movement to allow replacement parts to be inserted had me supposing the entire tubing length might need sacrificing.

I know exactly what you mean as I thought I would have to resort to doing the same thing.  But after getting into the project, I learned it could be done without replacing the pipe(s) that disappear into the motorhome.

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General Discussion / Re: Draining the fresh water tank

« on: December 24, 2024, 01:07:09 am »

Taildragger,

Your 2350 is setup differently than our earlier design, but maybe my experience will apply with your low-point drain valves.  As I recall, after I detached the valves off the floor from the caulk, I lifted them, detached the drain tubes to the street, then was able to pull the valves a few extra inches away from the wall to replace them.  I already had the crimping tool and bag of copper rings when repairing our PC kitchen plumbing, an unrelated problem created by my own doing some years earlier.

This is the crimping tool kit.  It worked well.

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General Discussion / Re: Draining the fresh water tank

« on: December 23, 2024, 06:39:53 am »

My freshwater tank did not want to drain when the valve was opened. I stuck a wire up it from the underside and had no luck. I did give it a shot of compressed air and whatever it was holding everything back moved and it drained fast.

That is a great tip!

It is plastic scraps from when the factory drilled holes into the tank to install the filler tube, the vent, the pump intake, and the main drain.  I wished the factory made a better effort in cleaning that stuff out.  I found lots of tiny bits of white plastic scraps in my two low-point drain valves when I replaced them.  It explains why they were always so hard to close until I finally broken them.  My replacement ball valves are flow-thru which encourages discharge of such debris.  I wonder where else the scrap plastic bits are floating around in our PC.

Here are my original broken low-point drain valves.  I didn't think of taking a picture of the significant accumulation of plastic bits.

The original valves has the water turning sharp corners where the debris gets hung-up on and then piles up.


Here are the placement 1/4 turn flow-thru ball valves.  If replacing yours, I recommend buying this type.  I recall buying mine at Home Depot.

The free-flow ball valve design allows plastic bits to pass through and get discharged.

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General Discussion / Re: Valve Stem Extensions

« on: December 17, 2024, 09:31:42 am »

I don't rotate my PC tires.  Instead, I let the 4 rear tires wear where they are for a more "even" weight distribution.  Rotating a tire with lots of thread next to a tire with less thread that was not worn that way naturally, will put more force on the tire with more thread.  That is my thinking though I am not sure it is the "right thinking."

Then I switched to Alcoa wheels and hard valve stems which surely put to rest any thoughts of tire rotation, except for doing what Amsoilman states.  Still, I am leaving every tire wear naturally, right where they are.  In my case, "tire wear" won't be the factor in changing tires.  Age will as it has been with us and our PC.

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General Discussion / Re: Inverter "Remote" Madness

« on: December 03, 2024, 07:11:53 pm »

So, no pocket-hole disassembly applies here.  I surely understand how you came to the conclusion you did.  I could see myself doing the same thing.

Looking back on the project, what was learned from it, I wonder now if it would have been best to cut the floor of the closet, one inch (or less) in from the 4 edges to create a large rectangular access opening.  Once the inverter project is complete, cover the hole with an additional finished plywood board, cut perfectly to cover the entire floor of the closet.  Screw it down to the original closet floor edges for structural integrity.

For a price, Phoenix should be able to ship a 1/8" thick matching finish board, a few inches bigger.  Make a pattern from paper to get the perfect shape.

This doesn't help you now Taildragger, but maybe someone else.... if it is a good approach.

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General Discussion / Re: Signs of a Bad Water Pump

« on: December 03, 2024, 08:38:22 am »

I failed to mention something that may influence the performance of the water pump.

It has been maybe 5 years ago, our hard-to-turn low point drain valves finally broke.  I replaced them with quarter-turn ball valves which made "draining" the pipes very easy and free-flowing.

When I disconnected the two original valves from the pipes, I was surpised to see bits of fresh water tank (white plastic) piled up against the valves.  I wished I had taken a picture of it.  It was significant.  I believe those scraps of plastic came from the fresh water tank when Phoenix drilled holes for the inlet, outlet, and drain.

The plastic scraps might also influence the function and/or performance of the water pump.  If you suspect your pump has fallen ill, you might want to disconnect it, remove it, and inspect it for plastic scraps.

For the curious, these were our original low-point multi-turn drain valves.  I twisted the handles right off.


Here are the replacement 1/4-turn ball valves.

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General Discussion / Re: Inverter "Remote" Madness

« on: December 03, 2024, 08:09:52 am »

I never understood the reason, or heard why Phoenix changed from the Tripp-Lite inverter that we have in our 2007, to the Xantrax that Taildragger has (or had) in his 2010.  The Tripp-Lite had a very short life span in terms of Phoenix model years.  It was introduced in late 2006 as an option that also included 2 house batteries, that later became standard equipment in 2007, and lasted but a few Phoenix production years.  Prior to the Tripp-Lite, Phoenix installed only a 12V converter supported by a single house battery.

As I mentioned higher-up, I wonder if Taildragger and others with the same limited access to the Xantrax, could have increased it by unscrewing the bottom frame rail (from behind) and lower panel (with heat register) under the drawer.  Phoenix assembled the cabinetry back then using the "pocket hole" method.  Maybe they still do today.

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General Discussion / Re: Draining the fresh water tank

« on: December 02, 2024, 11:58:33 pm »

The location of the Fresh Water Tank varies.  Even among the same exact model - depending on year,  I have a slideless 2350 with the tank under the front of the bed.  From pictures contributed to this Thread, I see another member's slideless 2350 with the tank located under the rear of the bed. 
While the four foot difference in forward/aft location changes weight distribution that affects center of gravity, it also changes drain valve placement.  The drain valve access in my 2350 is in the rearmost corner of the storage bay and very awkward to manipulate. I have to literally crawl into the storage compartment to operate the Drain Valve.  The alternative, for better grasp, would be to reach the valve from above, by removing the mattress and plywood cover of the bed frame.

I am one of those people with an early 2350 with the fresh water tank placed to the rear.  The tank-drain is very conveniently located.  As you say, there are so many variations.

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General Discussion / Re: Downsizing/Exterior storage/propane grill preference

« on: November 29, 2024, 06:12:13 pm »

Hi Ron just getting back you regarding your question about our tiffin breeze. It was well built and similar in quality to the PC (we’re still waiting for ours hopefully the build completion January 2025) I’ve had a couple of class C’s the last a mini Winnie with a 460 ford. I really missed the handling & power.  The tiffin was grossly underpowered, needed to upgrade steering & the maxx force 7 engine (Navistar) has a litany of problems with emissions & turbo etc from 2011-2014. They stopped making this engine in 2015 & class action suits followed. If you’re considering a Tiffin Breeze in these years with the Maxx force engine Don’t. The PC handles & rides like sport car compared to the tiffin. Yes we’ll miss the storage, anir suspension and space but it’s time to downsize. The maintenance on the diesel was also excessive and although Tiffin did have a great support system since their sale to Thor in 2020 things have changed not for the best. I did look into the tires as you suggested and unfortunately at this point not able to upgrade them. Thanks for the advice. Hope to see you on the road.

Thank you for your detailed reply.  I did not realize the engine was such a very serious matter in the 2011-2014 model years.  I wonder if 2015 was any better.

Regardless, I am never making any such change.  Our wonderful 2007 PC-2350 is our last motorhome.  The next one will be driven on heavenly highways, if God has highways up there.

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General Discussion / Re: Inverter "Remote" Madness

« on: November 29, 2024, 09:04:52 am »

Ah, that made it very clear as to the difference between our 2007 2350 (no slide) and your 2010 2350 (no slide).

Only for reference and clarification, our Tripp-Lite has a remote control panel as well, be it very simple.  I don't like using it because it does not fully shut off the unit.  I believe it places the unit into some kind of "sleep mode" or "stand-by mode" still drawing a small amount of power.  Instead, I open the Tripp-Lite door, reach in, and shut it off utilizing the small black switch on the Tripp-Lite itself.  My front TV and my 110V volt meter draws a small amount of 110V leaving me feeling it is best to kill 110V right at the source to assure it is 100% dead when I want it dead, exclusively done for better battery health.

Here is the Tripp-Lite remote panel, seen to the right of the power panel.  Below them is access to the main 12V power solenoid and a few other electrical connections along with rear access to the two panels from below.

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General Discussion / Re: Inverter "Remote" Madness

« on: November 28, 2024, 09:14:21 am »

I too have a few questions for Taildragger.

We have a 2007 2350 (no slide)
You have a 2010 2350 (no slide)
Our inverter is under the main closet, the same as you indicated, but we do not have a drawer.
We have a Tripp-Lite inverter.  Was your original one a Tripp-Lite?
We have a vented access door.  You don't?  Did I understand you correctly, access to the inverter is through a small drawer opening?  Are you saying the inverter does not fit through the provided access?

What comes to mind for increasing the size of the opening, is removing the cabinet rail along the bottom of the accress opening.  It may be screwed on from behind like I seen practiced with the galley cabinet.  You could confirm my suspicion with a mirror.

Why did you replace your inverter?  Did it fail?

For reference, here is the situation with our Tripp-Lite inverter.  We have NO drawer.

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General Discussion / Re: Samsung dvd replacement

« on: November 26, 2024, 11:13:16 pm »

Ron.  Samsung HT-E4500 Smart 3D Blu Ray DVD 5.1 .   Note, It does not have a connection for an IPod if that’s something you need. The one I picked up for $15 is the exact same model I had with no blu ray.  The only other thing to note is that with my original I could control the player volume with the tv remote. With this unit i need to use the dvd players remote to control the surround sound volume.   It might be possible to get a universal remote but I’m fine with the two.


P.S.  forgot to mention the power cord is roughly 2-2 1/2” shorter.

I got it!  Thank you.