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Messages - Tarnold

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General Discussion / Black tank valve…installed
« on: October 15, 2021, 02:38:24 pm »
To follow up on my previous post.  As mention previously, best way to remove old valve is find a straight section of the black 3” pipe.  On mine it was about 10”.  (2014 2552).  Saw the pipe keeping as straight as you can as close to the middle of the run as you can.   Mine was on the down stream side of the valve.  Remove the 4 bolts holding the valve in place and the motor frame(if you have electric valves, and tie it up, or it will swing down and HIT you in the face!). The afore mention 3” fernco rubber connector is about 4.5” long.  It gives you lots of lateral adjustment when you put things back in place.  Saw off another 3/4” off the 3” pipe(the one that comes off when you remove the bolts), this will give you plenty of room to slip in the new valve.  Slip the rubber connector over the 3” black pipe still attached to the stack as far on as you can.   Using Vaseline, “glue” the new rubber seals onto the valve. This helps holding them in place while you slip the valve in.  Line everything back up and slide in place.   With the 4 bolts loosely tightened, slide the rubber fernco connector back and centered on the 3” black pipe.  Tighten everything back up.Adjust the electric closer for full travel and good to go. 

General Discussion / Re: Black tank valve
« on: October 11, 2021, 10:51:52 am »
Probably could, when things don’t work, I try to make them right.  And besides the electric dump valves have spoiled me after having to do it 40+ years the other way.

As I was literally crawling out from under after using a resip saw to cut the pipe, Doug from PC returned my earlier call.  Met Doug at the rally, he did a LOT of fixes there.   He thinks loosening the bracket holding the sanicon pump would provide enough slack to remove.  O’well , maybe next time. 
Postmortem revealed a bit of the rubber seal had torn loose and jammed  in the grove where the slide closes, not allowing it to close completely.  Had to use a dental pick to clean it out so flushing wouldn’t have cleared it.    Amazon is out of stock on a Bristol, so ordered a valterra.  Bolt pattern is the same so should work.

General Discussion / Re: Black tank valve
« on: October 10, 2021, 08:26:42 pm »
Well, if I could get the *&&* valve out I would.  Because I can get the valve to spin around with the 4 bolts removed, I guess the 2 rubber seals are what is not allowing me to pry out the valve.  Just no wiggle room to pry it out without a chance of breaking one of the 4 bolt flanges. Again seriously thinking I can cut the longer piece of 3” pipe and get enough room to drop the valve out.  Lowe’s has a 3” rubber coupling that I can use as a patch where I cut the 3” pipe.

Donc, I’ve already started measuring to put some sliding drawers in that closet over the drivers side bed.

General Discussion / Re: Black tank valve
« on: October 10, 2021, 05:01:44 pm »
Disconnected the barker electric valve closer and using the manual slides.  Something is not allowing the Bristol valve to fully seat.  Stuck my inspection camera up there but not clear enough to see, can see the valve is closed but can’t tell if fully closed. (it’s not).  Using the black tank wash out for the first time.  Neat feature but can’t get enough pressure flow to clear out what ever it is.  With the valve manually closed(and tapped with a hammer) there is still a trickle of water that comes out with the flush turned on.  Flushed at least 10 times.  Got to get that valve out somehow.  Gonna try n call PC tomorrow and see if I can talk to someone.

General Discussion / Black tank valve
« on: October 10, 2021, 02:10:20 pm »
Original problem is the black tank red blink light will not go off when closed.  It does seem to be closed though, all the way.  The auto valves are barker, black and grey are both 3”.  But they have 2 different part numbers 138508 and 138499 but they look just alike(they might be serial numbers?).  There is an adjustment bolt where the barker device ratchets close/open the Bristol slide valve.  It was so rusty had to take a dremmel   and cut it out and replace.  After adjusting all I could(can make the light go out if not attached to the Bristol valve) decided to pull the Bristol slide valve out to see if something was not letting it close completely.  I’ve replaced these before on other units I’ve had. Just pull 4 bolts out.   Never a problem before except making sure the big O ring stays in place.  No way in hell could I get enough slack using pry bars on the 3” pipe coming from the black tank or the other 3” going to the sanicon to drop out the slide valve.  No adjustment on either end of the 3” pipes to allow the slide valve to drop out.  Seems like it has flanges on both sides into the 3” pipe so it wont drop out.  I can rotate it around but not drop out.  So before I take a recip saw to the 3” pipe and cut it out, any body replaced one of these? Hints?  2013 2552
(Guess I could just disconnect the red light :( ). 

Tips and Tricks / Re: Tow Bar Pins
« on: October 09, 2021, 08:06:29 am »
I use the NSA elite ll.  It comes with pins that have a large D handle at the end for easier removable.  But stock came with hairpin type keepers.  When towing the pins tend to work out so that the keeper pin is tight against the vehicle bars.  It’s tight with the safety cables very close and has to be doing some rubbing in tight turns.  Just wasn’t comfortable with that and now use pad locks to secure the pin.  The hardened padlock is much more secure than the flimsy 1/8” safety pins.  I carry spares pins from tractor supply.

General Discussion / Re: P0306
« on: October 05, 2021, 08:37:35 pm »
Joseph, thinking about your post, that price might have been just plugs and “boots”, not the coil pak, where the money is.  And I bought house brand not the expensive motor craft coil pak.

General Discussion / Re: P0306
« on: October 05, 2021, 10:28:32 am »
If that $500 is parts and labor, get it in writing soon!  Just off brand parts are going to be close to that.  Would think labor would be at least 3 hr. @ $$$.

General Discussion / P0306
« on: October 04, 2021, 05:04:41 pm »
Still on our way home from the rally.  Pulled out of the camp ground in Texas and the service engine soon light came on and starting blinking.  Set my scan gauge to scan, and got subject code.  #6 cyl bad spark or coil.  Headed to the next town with an orileys and a camp ground.  Took the little smart and got a new coil pack and a plug.  A motor craft coil pack was $79.99!, ( each x 10 )went with the house brand.  Out of all the plugs, this was probably the easiest to get to after removing the air cleaner.  Took about an hour and all is well.  This is a 2013 with only 30k miles.

General Discussion / Re: Custom RV Mattresses, anyone bought one for 2551?
« on: September 29, 2021, 09:52:16 pm »
In my last unit, I had original mattress factory custom 2 mattress for us.  Depending on the style/springs size you chose, they will make them whatever size.  Ie: 3” springs have to be a multiple of 3.

General Discussion / Re: Norcold bottom hinge broke.
« on: September 22, 2021, 01:37:37 pm »
Fixed it!  1 1/2” aluminum strip with the hinge pin perfectly aligned.  8 #10 1” sheet metal screws fixed to the underside bottom of he door.  As seen on YouTube.

General Discussion / Norcold bottom hinge broke.
« on: September 21, 2021, 07:19:33 pm »
Sitting here at the rally , Anyhow the damn hinge broke.  Lots of vids on YouTube how to fix, a common problem.  So I guess a little more jb weld then a trip to tractor supply for a strip of aluminum to fab a new hinge.

General Discussion / Re: Kitchen sink
« on: September 08, 2021, 02:16:07 pm »
2 trips to Lowe’s, and 4 sales people.  Shark bite makes connectors for copper and pex.   They ARE different.  The first 2 people had lined up with the copper shark bite.  Not until I got home from the first trip did I notice it was for copper.  Second trip(this is 18 miles each way, I live out by choice) worked with a 3rd person who was filling in for the “plumber” sales person, but not any more help.  While waiting for the “plumber” to return for lunch(10:30 am but he comes to work at 5am) I found what I needed.  Ended up having to cut off what PC used and went with a 90* 1/2x3/8 shark bite for pex. This also has a shutoff valve as part of the unit.  Snaps right on with a good clean cut.  The install took about 15 min once I had all the right stuff.  HERE COMES A BIG HINT.  Part of tightening up the faucet to the back of the sink,  requires that a bar and nut be screwed on a stud that is part of the faucet, that is VERY hard to get to.  Under the sink there are 2 holes in a cover that is over your hot water heater.  This is for plumbing drain and water lines going up to the faucet.  STUFF A RAG IN EACH OF THOSE HOLES TO FILL UP THE CRACKS.  So that when you drop that little nut it does not fall thru the hole and down into the back of the hot water heater, never to be seen again.  I had a spare nut.  Anyway job done, now on to the next project.

General Discussion / Kitchen sink
« on: September 07, 2021, 05:47:07 pm »
Winterized but guess I didn’t drain the sprayer head, it cracked.  Also no water coming, hot or cold coming out. Yes, the strainer was off so no clog there.  Managed to remove hose connections, no each chore there under sink, took that to Lowe’s with me.  Went to Lowe’s, had 1 replacement that might (have) worked.  2 Lowe’s helpers to try and match what PC had installed and what Lowe’s had.  Got 2 90* shark bite 3/8 to 1/2 to (try) to mate  to the PC 3wing nut on the PC side .  Had to go to the 90* so as to clear the PC wing nut.  Won’t tighten up enough the 3wing to the shark bite, it just spins.  The shark bite is intended for copper tubing.  Thought about just cutting off what PC has, spend a fortune on fittings and start over.  Ideas?  Trying to leave by Friday to spear fish.

General Discussion / Re: PCTC Reunion 2021
« on: September 02, 2021, 11:58:25 am »
Ok, we’re in.  Been so long, got to figure out how to make everything work again.

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