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Topics - Doneworking

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General Discussion / Failed flourescent light fixture
« on: July 16, 2019, 03:15:54 pm »
Here is a strange one.  All the fixtures and everything else works in our PC.   The two tube fixture in the center of the ceiling in front of the refrigerator has quit working.   I assumed a bad bulb.  Nope.  Bad fixture?  Nope.

I took the fixture out, bench tested it and it works fine.   The problem is no 12v in the two wires going to the fixture.  These wires are pigtailed and the power supply comes out of a hole in the ceiling behind the fixture.  The wiring is located in the metal channel that supports the roof as is a lot of the wiring in a PC.   No voltage or current in these two wires, hooked up who knows where and my only conclusion is a loose connection somewhere behind a wall, in the roof channel etc.   Every thing else works and so did this light on our last trip a month ago.   I can only assume normal road vibration dislocated a connection and created an open circuit. 

Fuse?   No.  Each 12v fuse in the control panel runs several things at once on this model and everything is operative except no juice to this fixture.   

Anyone got an idea?


I notice that the Phoenix Cruisers for Sale by Owner category on this forum is now totally blank.   Does that mean that there are no rigs listed, they sold or were withdrawn or does it mean that PC is no longer supporting this service??

Perhaps there was activity on there that I didn't notice  but it just seems to have gone totally dark.   When I click, nothing appears and it it almost like the site has just gone dormant.

General Discussion / It's always a sigh of relief
« on: March 28, 2019, 08:21:35 am »
Yesterday I dewinterized our Phoenix Cruiser.   I don't care how careful I am in the fall I always have that little worry in the back of my mind:  did I miss anything?   Well, I didn't.  Every year for me it is a great feeling when you drain and flush and test all the systems after several months in storage.   

I bet I am not the only one that goes "Whew!" every springtime.   2o2


General Discussion / Five and a half years later...................
« on: March 01, 2019, 07:32:33 pm »
Next Tuesday, March 5, it will have been exactly five and a half years since we took possession of our 2013 PC 2350.   It was only ten months old when we bought it from a couple less than five miles away from our home.  They decided they wanted a DP.   

In those years and after driving it about 5000-6000 miles each year of our ownership, we have had remarkably few problems.  I have corrected a few minor things like the factory using screws that were too long and potentially could penetrate the dump hose, adjusting the bracket holding up the macerator to relieve pressure on the bayonet connection, replacing most cabinet hinges (probably a bad shipment of them to the factory) and a few more minor things that occur with any house going down the road at 70 mph..   

We made some simple alterations like converting the hanging clothes closet to shelves, installing 200 watts of solar, making a much more useable table, reconfiguring several cabinets with shelves, etc.   But, all those changes were to accommodate our personal uses.

The Ford 350 chassis has provided flawless service.  I have replaced the coach and chassis batteries because, after six years from when they were installed, they were not up to par. 

I would estimate that I have spent less than four hundred bucks on the maintenance/correction stuff including the batteries and less than five hundred on the solar, shelves, LED light conversions, etc.   Round that up to a thousand which works out to less than two hundred a year of ownership on average.  I do all the mods and coach maintenance myself and have a trusted local garage do the Ford stuff.

Let's face it:  we have been immensely pleased with our PC and it has provided a lot of wonderful months in great places for reasonable cost.  We do store it in an indoor, enclosed facility and that is also an expense but that expense would be incurred whether it said PC or Winnebago or Whatever on the side of the rig.   

Now, to all that has to be added $3,500 for a really great towing system to pull along our Jeep Cherokee Trailblazer.   

I consider us really lucky.   Our PC was made while the original owners of the company were operating and it was built a few years after the 2008 financial debacle that caused such a wave of harm in the RV and other industries.    I hope that the problems of the more recent purchasers of PCs that  post on this forum are solved by the company with the same integrity and meticulous attention to service the former owners of the company exhibited.   That has kept the resale price of our PCs up and I just hope that continues.   Time will tell.


General Discussion / What's behind the front TV?
« on: October 05, 2018, 05:52:20 pm »
I have a clanking noise that comes and goes but now mostly is constant.  It sounds like something is loose and it is behind the front TV on our 2350 .   I am wondering if it is a loose support or bolt in the cowling behind the TV and above the cockpit headboard where the PC is mated to the Ford or something else up there banging away.   I searched the forum and found out how to remove the TV on a different model but I suspect  it is the same on the 2350 since all the PCs tend to be so similar up front.   

It is NOT the squeak/noise that emanates from improper screws in the side cabinets that Ron described some time ago in a thread.   It is also not the most immediate thought I had which was that the TV antenna was flopping up and down and it would certainly cause a noise from about the same location.  Clearly, it is behind the TV in the cowling.

My question is this:  with the TV removed do you have access to  space behind it?   I am sure wiring for the TV and perhaps much more may be up there and something is flopping around. 

I once had a Gulfstream Cruiser and the forums back fifteen years ago talked about "The Noise".   It was in that area and was always the same thing: a bolt holding the BT front to the top of the original Ford .   Seems the factory had not used lock washers!!

I had The Noise and had to take the whole shebang apart to get to the bolts.    Isn't it amazing how a small screw up on the production line can cause so much trouble?    Our Phoenix Cruiser has been wonderful and we have found very few  pyho  on it.   I want to work on this in a couple of weeks when I have time and hope someone can tell me what awaits me for discovery behind the TV and how to access it once I remove the TV. 


General Discussion / Cabinet squeak
« on: January 19, 2018, 10:54:16 am »
Ron wrote in another thread about leaking in the front cap:

I had a squeak in our front cabinets.  Kermit's inspection process concluded "All Was Well" with my B+ cap mounting screws.  He then provided another bit of advise which resolved my front cabinet squeaks.

I have the squeak but no leak and started this thread so as not to change the subject on the water leaks which is much more important than a squeak noise.  I have a sometimes squeak that seems to come from the front cabinets above the passengers seat.   Ron, can you share with us what Kermit's advise was?   I have looked and looked and pushed and pushed and can't seem to find it.   I checked the antenna on the roof which is just above this area and it was down tight and not causing the problem.  



General Discussion / Water pump failure
« on: August 23, 2017, 09:11:55 am »
In a post a few months ago, I was discussing our "rattling pipes" and how I had traced the pipes and made sure they were not knocking each other when the water pump was activated.   Well, it got worse with time.

Boy, was I dumb!!   I should have known better. 

Turns out it was the water pump beginning to fail.   We just got back from a three week trip in the mountains of Colorado and New Mexico.  About five days into the trip, the water pump started making a terrible racket and the pipes sounded like they were coming apart.   To make a long story short, the pump failed.   Now, in a 2350 the pump is located next to the fresh tank under the bed and access is gained by removing the mattress and opening a large hatch.   There are two hatches and each is half the size of the mattress and thus you can gain complete access to all the things built in under the bed. 

Incredibly, in a town of a few hundred people within ten miles of our camp in the national forest I found an auto parts store that carried a limited amount of rv supplies.   Would you believe they actually had a Shurflow pump almost identical to the failed one!  One only.  I bought that baby, installed it and now all is well with no more noise or rattling. 

Think about inspecting your pump.   What occurred with ours was that the torque of the motor coming on and going off had caused the pump to wallow out the threads on the head of the motor where the pump and motor come together.     There are six or eight (?) filbert headed bolts  on the face of the pump that screw into the motor head.   I couldn't believe how small the bolts were in diameter.  I think they were only 5/32 fine threads about 1.75 inches long.   The design is very poor in my opinion because logic would tell you larger bolts should have been utilized.

In any event, I kept the old pump and plan on drilling out and oversizing the bolt holes.  I will drill out the old threads and drill through the motor mount and install larger bolts using nuts and lock washers, not just rethreading the relatively soft metal of the motor's head.    That should fix the pump and I will carry it as a spare.

It just seems -regardless of brand-  everything is made cheaper and of poorer quality in the last few years.    We all love cheap until you have a failure. 

Check the bolts that assemble your pump/motor unit.   Make sure they are tight and not working loose.   


We just got back from a nearly three week trip to New Mexico and Colorado.  As I read this and other RV forums, I almost feel out of place because nothing has gone wrong with our PC2350!  We will soon have owned it for four years and except for a few minor things like the door switch, adjusting the pitch of the mount of the Sanicom pump, etc. all is well.   We recently had a 2.9 inch rain overnight camping and no leaks.  No wind intrusion.  Nothin'!

I guess we are just lucky but we really enjoy our PC and appreciate its trouble free performance.  Minor things like replacing a few faulty cabinet latches, isolating a couple of pipes so they don't bang against the floor when the pump is running just don't seem significant to me.   

We came home Monday and drove 562 miles in one day pulling a Jeep Trailhawk, including over a 10,000 foot pass.  No problems except I was one tired old goat when we pulled into our driveway, but I didn't want to stop and spend the night in the heat we were experiencing.  We got up Monday morning in the mountains and it was 37 degrees.   As we crossed the Texas Panhandle, it was 104.  The wind was blowing constantly for over 400 miles with gusts above 30 mph hitting us broadside.   No problems.  We have added absolutely nothing to enhance handling, just plain old Ford stuff from the factory with the alignment set slightly higher than midrange. 

I feel really blessed as I write this.  It seems so many report so many problems and some are severe, like the ultraleather peeling problem.   Man, I feel lucky.   I must say though, I do appreciate the fact this is a house going down the road and it is a truck not a Lexus.


General Discussion / Low water pressure when hooked up
« on: April 30, 2017, 11:23:31 am »
We seldom camp where hookups are available but when we do we still use the pump and water supply from our fresh tank, refilling it as needed with the campground water.  Why?  Because we don't have very good pressure if we are hooked up directly to the campground water supply.

Now, I have checked out just about everything.  I have a water pressure gauge I carry that has a female hose connection attached.  I can check water pressure at the source, at the end of the hose after the water supply has gone through my regulator and hose, etc.  Water pressure is 40 psi at the end of my hose, exactly as it should be.  The pressure of the water coming out in the sinks in our 2013 PC 2350 is about 1/3rd of the pressure with our pump and is essentially not usable for showering, etc.  

I have checked the filter screen in the input connection on the PC.  As a matter of fact, the original back flow check valve failed and I replaced that with a new input connection and a new check valve.  They work perfectly.   I have removed the bed and accessed the plumbing underneath.  I have checked for kinks in the plumbing lines, crimps, everything on every pipe that is accessible.  No problems.  

The only conclusion I can come up with is that the supply line is crimped or impeded somewhere behind the wall between the hose input connection and the accessible/viewable plumbing.   Please remember the pressure is low at all outlets:  both sinks, toilet, shower, and outside shower....every outlet.   SO....the problem must be in the main supply line somewhere and I have just about given up.  I don't intend to tear out the shower walls to try to find it!

Does anyone have any thought or has anyone experienced a similar problem?    I assume the plumbing routing will differ from model to model.  

The whole system works perfectly fine with the water pump.


General Discussion / Every little bit of storage counts
« on: March 17, 2017, 07:46:53 pm »
Going over our PC2350 today doing all my annual maintenance stuff.  

I took off the spare tire cover to check the spare's pressure and thought I would pass along what else is back there.  Many may do this also, but if you don't it is a thought for you.  I keep a heavy duty long length set of jumper cables and a fifteen foot spare water hose (for the macerator pump/dump) wrapped around the steel tube that supports the spare tire.  I haven't needed either since we got the PC three plus years ago but you never know....particularly the jumpers.  It is a great place to keep those two seldom needed items.   Exterior storage in our PC is limited so every little bit helps.  Also the interior of that metal tube is a neat place to keep something small that is seldom needed, maybe a can of Slime or something like that.  Emergency type stuff.  


General Discussion / Leak after dewinterizing
« on: March 10, 2017, 10:06:34 am »
Yesterday was 80 degrees and it is time for me to dewinterize and get ready to take several nice trips this spring, summer and fall in our PC2350.   I believe in overdoing winterization.  It got down to -3 here this winter on one occasion even if the Jan-Feb temp average set an old time high since record keeping began in 1895.  

When I winterize, I blow out all the lines and use about twice as much RV antifreeze as is recommended.  I double check everything.   So, I was surprised to notice water dripping out  from under the side of the coach after I flushed and pressurized the system.  It appeared to be coming from an area a foot or so aft of the hot water tank.   After removing the kitchen drawers and access panels, I could see the drip from the sewer pipe coming from the sink and assumed it was in a pipe joint.  I use a small plumbers helper to push out all the water in the P traps when winterizing and put almost a quart of antifreeze down the sink to protect the Ps and the excess just runs in the black tank to protect it a bit.   I was surprised it was leaking in those joints.  

Well, it wasn't.  For some reason the sink hose sprayer was not shutting off when pressurized and was dripping down the hose, dropping onto the sewer pipes, running about 20 inches and then puddling on the floor then leaking out to the outside.  

The moral of the story is:  before you assume the worst, check the simple solutions.  Those spray head are NOTORIOUS for leaking.  It was not broken, not frozen, just decided to leak.  It was full of "pink stuff" but for whatever reason it leaked.   So, a few bucks at Lowes or HD and I am good to go.  

The truth is there is a lot to go wrong in a motorhome.  Regardless of the meticulous manner of construction and maintenance, it is a house going down the road at 70 mph.  

Check the simple stuff first before you spend an hour taking out access panels, removing drawers and cabinet doors, standing on your head and saying naughty words.   KISS :-[


General Discussion / Check your macerator pump
« on: February 17, 2017, 04:05:38 pm »
I love the Sanicom system on our PC but it has a design that seems to me to be trouble waiting to happen.  Or, maybe, I just was unlucky.  The Thetford pump is supported on our PC by a U bracket below the system access door.  The location of the bracket (which looks like something PC probably makes for their rigs) was just a little off kilter resulting in a not quite right alignment and apparently put a bit of a strain on the connection between pump mounting bracket and the pvc pipe coming from the tanks.  Given a few thousand miles of vibration going down the road, the mounting on the pump (which is a bayonet) failed.  The result was  leakage of fluid at the point where the pump joins the piping.  There is an O ring at this point between the pipe and the pump bayonet.  

The problem is the bayonet.  It has four ears and three of the four on my pump failed.  Failed is a nice word.  Those suckers broke off leaving the pump attached to the  pipe with only one of the four appendages.  

I took the whole shebang apart this beautiful (sunny and 70F) day and took it into my shop, cleaned it, modified it and reinstalled.  I put a good sealant all around the joint and that will obviously have to be scrapped off if I ever replace the pump, which I doubt.  This is our second RV with a macerator and if you take care (particularly to use a hair trap on the drain in the shower and not put really dumb things down the gray drains in the sinks) they give great service in my experience.  

I add all this to the forum to simply caution my fellow PCers to consider visually checking the integrity of the bayonet on their rigs when they do their spring "gettin' ready to go" stuff.  

Researching this on several Class C forums, I find I am not the only one to have had the problem.  The bayonet is simply under structured from a design standpoint.   Competing (non Thetford) pumps used in RVs apparently use a threaded attachment as opposed to the bayonet.  


General Discussion / Bathroom door hinge problems
« on: May 29, 2016, 09:02:00 pm »
I noticed today while getting ready for a trip that the bathroom door seemed a little difficult to easily close.  No wonder!  The top hing had completely come loose from the wall where it attaches the door.   This door has a mirror on it and after looking at the floorplans on the PC home page it appears several models may have the same door.   

Here is the problem:  the door is attached with only three hinges and they are CABINET HINGES.  Each hinge has only two small cabinet screws to secure to the wall.  Since the backboard in the walls is only slightly thicker than a sheet of paper, that is a lot of weight for the two screws on each hinge to support.  The top hinge had completely lost its two screws and I found them on the floor far back in a corner.   The center hinge was being supported by two screws which were very loose and the bottom hinge where the torque of opening would be least were both a little loose. 

I was shocked that a piano hinge had not been used, although I confess I never really thought about it much until this discovery.   Looking at a couple of the youtube tours on line from the site for various models, I saw some with cabinet hinges and at least one appeared to have a piano hinge. 

I suggest you check the mounting of your door.   Since we are getting ready to be in the rig a few days I screwed in a couple of oversized screws and will probably add two more cabinet hinges when we get back home.   That alone would reduce the weight distribution significantly.    I suspect it would be a real riot to be going down the road and the door fall off.  Or any other time for that matter.................


General Discussion / Finding out the hard way!
« on: March 29, 2016, 07:59:49 am »
Two weeks ago I went to the place we store our PC2350 (lucky for us, completely enclosed and less than three miles from our home), drove the rig home and started doing some getting ready for camping this spring.   I checked out all the systems after dewinterizing and drove back out to the storage center.   Mission accomplished.

Yesterday, I went to retrieve it for another round of getting ready and making a few modifications.  When I opened the doors to the storage unit I heard a faint electronic beep...somewhere?....and opened the door to the 2350.  Well, the beep was the emergency warning from the Xantrex Pro XM1800 inverter control on the wall.  It was showing 10.5 volts input!!   

I always am very cautious to turn off the DC power locking switch located by the door that disconnects the coach batteries from the rig.  I DID NOT KNOW that disconnecting that switch did not disconnect the Xantrax.  We seldom use the inverter.  I had turned it on two weeks ago to test it and had forgotten to turn it off.   I was shocked to discover it was not subject to the power cutoff of all the other systems.   As I thought about it, I concluded that is because it requires a lot of input juice and thus is not wired through the system locking switch by the door.

News to me!!   Moral to the story is don't forget to turn off that switch!  My assumption that all is off when the door 12 volt system switch is deactivated is simply very wrong.

Lucky for me, yesterday was a picture perfect day with clear skies and full sun, 72 degrees for a high.  That was enough good source for the 200 watts of solar on the roof to bring the batteries back up to snuff after a full day setting out there in the driveway.  I will be getting it out again in a couple of days to complete my tasks and I will plug it in for max charge for a couple of days here in the driveway.

I am probably the only one that did not know to check that Xantrex switch separately from the main power switch.  I won't forget the lesson and that is for sure. 


General Discussion / Storage behind the driver's seat
« on: March 01, 2016, 11:25:51 am »
Has anyone added any kind of storage cabinet or box behind the driver's seat?  

We stack a couple of boxes between the seat and the retracted slide.  They are used for canned goods and miscellaneous supplies when we are going to be boondocking for a couple of weeks or more.  The width is about 14 inches on our storage boxes, the depth less than 20 inches.  Since I like to drive with the seat close to the steering wheel, this creates no problem for driving or minor seat articulation.   I am going to see if I can figure out a more permanent storage arrangement there and wondered if anyone else had eyed that space for storage or a custom cabinet.   A cabinet would be rather odd sized and short but it seems a possibility.   I think I will make a mock up at of some paste board to get the fit correct and determine if it is worth the time and effort.  

Maybe someone has already done this?  


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