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1

General Discussion / Re: Godzilla Engine?

« on: January 19, 2025, 01:05:49 pm »

I have found owners who claim they get slightly better mileage running premium. According to the fine print, this is the fuel the engine was designed to run on. While it will run fine on regular, the ECU will be retarding spark to run on that fuel.

Due to the high cost of premium, as others have mentioned, you won't get your money back with the mileage increase.

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General Discussion / Godzilla Engine?

« on: January 19, 2025, 12:59:06 pm »

I wonder what experience the owners of the 7.3L Godzilla engine report.   There is some controversy related to MPG's using 87 octane regular fuel vs 91/93 octane premium fuel with that engine

FORD fine print states the 7.3L  Max. 430 horsepower and 485 lb.-ft. of torque based on PREMIUM fuel.  All this time I assumed the 430 HP 7.3L HP/torque ratings were with regular 87 octane. Wonder how much is given up using 87 LL

The question is……will using regular 87 LL save you more than any noticeable difference paying for premium?

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General Discussion / Re: How to make the screen door more visible

« on: January 03, 2025, 12:26:15 pm »

If you're considering replacing the screen fabric color, there is a YouTube Video "How to Rescreen a StowAway Retractable Screen Door" that gives Step by Step Instructions.  According to the video, there is an End Cap that contains the screen reel.  The procedure appears to be as simple as working with Roller Blinds.  Finding colored screen fabric is a problem.

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General Discussion / Re: How to make the screen door more visible

« on: January 02, 2025, 11:49:24 am »

In our Phoenix Cruiser, the problem was eliminated by using yarn.  The same as used for knitting.  Intertwine the yarn with the screen to form an image.  We have a face outlined that is about six inches in diameter.  Placed at about eye level, and although the image isn't close to being a hologram, it adds a third dimension to the screen. 

The yarn figurine has been in place for two years and has neither interfered with the screen operation nor needed to be replaced/
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General Discussion / Re: Dometic Thermostat Issue

« on: December 26, 2024, 12:06:59 pm »

There is a known issue with Dometic Thermostats that is related to the Circuit Board "Floating"   The problem is exposed by removing the Thermostat's Front Cover. The Circuit Board is probably loose on the mounting screws.   The unstable mounting is obvious - if it exists.  The board "squirms" when pressure is applied.  That movement is enough to create a misalignment between the Control Button and Circuit Board Sensor.

The Control Board Sensors can be operated directly with the cover off and the direct contact with the control usually eliminates the signal problem.   I used a glue gun to apply a spot of glue in each corner of the Circuit Board to eliminate the wobble effect.

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General Discussion / Re: Draining the fresh water tank

« on: December 24, 2024, 01:36:33 am »

Thanks for sharing the benefit of your experience.  As I think about installing the new valves, I wonder about getting the factory existing parts removed.  With the right-angle bend in the mating parts and ample caulk, there is no free play.
The hardware store in the town where I store the RV offers to loan the PEX Crimping Tool.  I am confident about using the special tool for crimping connections.  Gaining enough longitudinal movement to allow replacement parts to be inserted had me supposing the entire tubing length might need sacrificing.

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General Discussion / Re: Draining the fresh water tank

« on: December 23, 2024, 09:21:55 pm »

Seems like drill shavings plugging the water supply line is a common problem.  The first Phoenix Cruiser I purchased had a mere 12,000 miles.  I think the prior owner decided to unload it rather than undertake what some repair shop might have quoted as an extensive project requiring the Base Cabinets be removed to access the plumbing.  The unit was in pristine condition, and everything worked - except the water.  My prepurchase inspector focused on everything except freshwater flow. I didn't realize a problem until well after taking possession and about to embark on a trip when I found the sink plugged.

The fix was as described.  Remove the Block Valve and witness an impressive flow of white plastic detritus.  Reassemble the valve and enjoy water pressure. 

Actually, an easy job on the 2100.  The rear kitchen design placed the water tank under the sink cabinet.  Access was easy.  Water lines on my current 2350 are in an awkward position.  Rather than go to the rear corner of the Storage Bay, I presume the best route is from above thru the bed frame. 

I am wondering what others recommend as the best disassembly procedure.  The fittings are a right-angle connection firmly mounted in the floor and wall.  Is the procedure as disconnecting the upper line firts?  I presume the draine line can then be lifted.

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General Discussion / Re: Valve Stem Extensions

« on: December 14, 2024, 09:40:21 pm »

Looking for a source of custom fitted metal valve stems that are matched to Make, Model, Tire Size, and Wheel Type, I found this supplier.  I haven't received them, but I understand they are not extensions.  They replace existing valve stems and are mounted in the wheel.

https://yourtireshopsupply.com/manufacturer/38/borg-equipment

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General Discussion / Re: Valve Stem Extensions

« on: December 14, 2024, 05:06:11 pm »

This topic was expounded upon in an earlier post

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=2080.0

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General Discussion / Re: Valve Stem Extensions

« on: December 12, 2024, 12:59:33 pm »

Not really a fan of TPMS.  In fact, I resent the imposition of Federal Regulations mandating their inclusion on new vehicles.  Time sensitive and proprietary equipment doomed to fail, I elect to not replace when one does.  Finding a tire shop willing to install new tires without replacing the timed-out and brand sensitive sensor isn't that difficult. 

However, finding a tire shop willing, or able, to install solid valve extensions has proven impossible.  The extensions require bending in order to be centered in the wheel opening.  Anything tubular requires a bending tool.  Conduit, exhaust, and fuel lines are good examples.  I have contacts with a half dozen tire shops and nobody want so to undertake the risk.  Even to apply a quarter inch "tweak".

Have you found a source selling custom fitted valve stem extensions that can be ordered based on Make, Model, Wheel Type?

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General Discussion / Re: Inverter "Remote" Madness

« on: December 04, 2024, 12:44:48 am »

Looking back on the project, what was learned from it, I wonder now if it would have been best to cut the floor of the closet, one inch (or less) in from the 4 edges to create a large rectangular access opening.  Once the inverter project is complete, cover the hole with an additional finished plywood board, cut perfectly to cover the entire floor of the closet.  Screw it down to the original closet floor edges for structural integrity.

.

Your conclusion describes exactly the procedure I should have used.  As your intuition dictates, a scroll saw cutting through the 3/4 " paperboard closet floor would have provided an equivalent access to what I obtained by instead busting everything.  Hopefully, this dialog will provide insight to others. 

Not knowing otherwise and presuming there was a logical disassembly procedure incorporated into the design decision caused me to proceed blindly.  After all, what engineer would bury an electronic device that is known to require maintenance in a vault like inaccessible location?   I was looking for an alternative to cutting my way into the buried compartment and instead proceeded by prying the walls apart.

Opening the "lid", by cutting open the closet floor, would have been much less complicated.  Dealing with what seemed like just one more staple, in a futile attempt to find the fourth side was "openable", evolved into multiple "last" staples that lead to finding the rearward edge of the closet floor was bracing the bathroom wall.   While I was focused on prying the floor up, I was expecting the resistance was nothing more than one more concealed staple.   Imaging a seam inside the wall that needed to be forced open, I soon was engaged in a demolition effort that I never expected. And couldn't reverse.

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General Discussion / Re: Signs of a Bad Water Pump

« on: December 03, 2024, 03:25:48 pm »

When I disconnected the two original valves from the pipes, I was surpised to see bits of fresh water tank (white plastic) piled up against the valves.  I wished I had taken a picture of it.  It was significant.  I believe those scraps of plastic came from the fresh water tank when Phoenix drilled holes for the inlet, outlet, and drain.

The plastic scraps might also influence the function and/or performance of the water pump.  If you suspect your pump has fallen ill, you might want to disconnect it, remove it, and inspect it for plastic scraps.

The presence of drill shavings remaining and plugging water lines cannot be overstated.  Resulting from water tank attach point installation, the thoughtless drilling without concern for detritus is a threat that affected my Phoenix Cruiser and caused water lines being completely plugged.  The junk accumulates near valves.  Disassembly is required to purge the lines.  And the valves are not located in locations allowing easy access with the necessary wrenches. 

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General Discussion / Re: Inverter "Remote" Madness

« on: December 03, 2024, 03:09:23 pm »

Replacing the Inverter on a 2010 Phoenix Cruiser 2350 is an undertaking that requires an insight into the construction of the cabinet enclosure.  I couldn't generate any response communication from the various industry sources.  Without meaningful insight, or any response from Phoenix Cruiser's Service Department, my only alternative was to blunder into the project. 

Since the cabinet doors and drawers rest on the cabinet frame and the stiles / rails served as a frame on the cabinet box without Mortise & Tenon, Dovetail, Dado, or Rabbet joints anywhere, it is not surprising the base wasn't secured to the floor with Pocket Hole cabinetry.  The cabinet's clothes closet bottom plate appeared to be my best avenue into the inverter vault.  I mistakenly assumed lifting the closet bottom and sliding the underneath drawer out it its rails was cleverly intended as an access route by Phoenix Cruiser Design Team Engineers. 

Not true, as I learned from inside the closet!  Because, although removing the bottom quarter-round trim reveals the plate is not solid on three sides, the fourth side blindly extends to the adjacent bathroom wall and is affixed with a more than adequate array of pneumatic staples.  Relying on my grandson, who is the strongest, smartest, and best-looking specimen representing what remains of that part of the human race showing any potential, we ripped the paper board assembly loose. 

Reassembly was accomplished using dimension lumber.  Where the construction required attachment to the residiual paperboard, we predrilled holes and inserted screws.  Of course, torque is a sensitive issue when relying on paperboard.  Fearing the consequence of using glue on the joints, I now fear the assembly collapsing from road vibration

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General Discussion / Re: Draining the fresh water tank

« on: December 02, 2024, 01:03:59 pm »

The location of the Fresh Water Tank varies.  Even among the same exact model - depending on year,  I have a slideless 2350 with the tank under the front of the bed.  From pictures contributed to this Thread, I see another member's slideless 2350 with the tank located under the rear of the bed. 
While the four foot difference in forward/aft location changes weight distribution that affects center of gravity, it also changes drain valve placement.  The drain valve access in my 2350 is in the rearmost corner of the storage bay and very awkward to manipulate. I have to literally crawl into the storage compartment to operate the Drain Valve.  The alternative, for better grasp, would be to reach the valve from above, by removing the mattress and plywood cover of the bed frame.

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General Discussion / Re: Inverter "Remote" Madness

« on: November 29, 2024, 01:58:44 pm »

During my experience with the TrippLite Inverter/Converter performed reliably.  That for the brief period I owned the PC 2100.  I relied on the Control Panel to monitor operation and battery condition.  The product was trouble free.  Following the suggestions in this Forum by Ron Dittmer, years ago, I installed a voltmeter/ammeter in the range hood.  The colored lights on the TrippLite Control Panel displayed usage.  But they did little to portray battery reserve level status condition.  I benefitted from the supplemental gauge.  Another nonintuitive revelation was being made aware that using the manual Off/On switch on the device, instead of the control panel, to preserve battery potential.

The new Xantrex Control Panel appears to be more full featured.  I look forward to using the system and testing the features claimed in the manual.

The Xantrex Inverter installed in the PC 2350 failed.  Replacement was complicated because location within the RV seems to vary among models and year.  Other Xantrex owners, on this forum, report the same fate.  But, they reported exchanging theirs for a replacement as if access didn't require demolition measures. 

Other Phoenix Cruiser owners with Xantrex failures, suggested an alternate brand as replacement.  I contacted Victron through their website.  I got  a reply with suggested authorized dealers.  Contacting several, I quickly learned a marketing scheme prevailed.  They all expected that I submit to a design engineering contract where I would be billed $120 to $160 / hour.  I explained my wiring and installation were already in place.  And all I wanted was a simple replacement.  It mattered little.  Seemed they expected customers to willingly submit to entrapment.