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General Discussion / Re: Dometic AC Smoke and Roof Leak

« on: August 20, 2024, 08:17:37 pm »

Woah!  Significant issue!
I've not heard of another similar issue at the transfer switch, but a loose connection anywhere in the electrical routing is a serious problem.
Your plan of annually checking wiring connections may sound like overkill--but if it prevents a fire, it's sure not overkill on that occasion.
The other moral of this story is that we can't afford to ever ignore or disregard a serious symptom like an overheating smell or evidence of smoke.  You were proactive about chasing this symptom, and still the component had to finally fail before you found it.  I'm glad that happened before it caused a fire.
Mike

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General Discussion / Re: Onan 4000 Generator - Want To Replace - Alternative?

« on: August 15, 2024, 09:05:24 am »

Wow!  That new Onan 4K is pretty impressive!  Looks like they have improved most of the specific characteristics they get tagged for on their legacy 4K units (lighter, quieter, lower fuel consumption, inverted output, permanent magnet generator, electronic ignition and fuel injection).  On paper, it looks like a winner.  I didn't try to check dimensions, but I'd bet it will pretty readily interchange mounting with the legacy unit.  Might meet much of Ron's wish list for a "Magic Genny".
Mike

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General Discussion / Re: Lippert Slideout "Sparking"

« on: July 18, 2024, 06:46:54 pm »

With no inverter or generator operation, and not plugged in, there will be no AC voltage on the wires.  You could extend/retract the slide with no danger of arcing.  As Cal says, if you are concerned about your house batteries, running the engine provides alternator power to ensure there is adequate juice.

The only potential issue with this approach, is if running your slide in or out were to bring that "frayed wire" into permanent contact with the flange or other grounded metal instead of the temporary touching that you've experienced.  If that were to occur, when you plug in, start your generator, or run the inverter, you may then apply 120-volts AC to the wire that is already in contact with ground.--creating a steady short.  Under that circumstance, the circuit breaker on that particular AC circuit should open, preventing a bigger problem, but it would be a concern.  Based on the intermittent arcing that you have experienced ONLY when actually moving the slide, this seems very unlikely to occur--but it would definitely be something to watch for.

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General Discussion / Re: Lippert Slideout "Sparking"

« on: July 17, 2024, 09:31:42 pm »

If it is a 120-volt AC arc, it will not be the slide wiring.  The slide system is 12-volt DC powered.  There is AC wiring running in that area of course, so evidently the slide movement is still causing metal to contact either a bare spot on a wire, or a connection.  The AC circuit will still be protected by a breaker that should open if there were sustained contact and steady arcing.  Sounds like a tight spot to access.  I've been following the forum for a long while, and don't remember anyone ever reporting a similar problem.

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General Discussion / Re: Dometic AC Smoke and Roof Leak

« on: July 07, 2024, 05:18:33 pm »

Second Cal's comment about the exterior Dometic covers.  I replaced both of mine after some hail damage last year.  One screw at each corner, they lift right off, and you have good visibility of the unit.  Even on the road, if you have the rear ladder (or other ready access to the top of your rig), it's about a 15-minute job to inspect.

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General Discussion / Re: Lippert Slideout "Sparking"

« on: June 21, 2024, 10:49:32 am »

The 2019 PC's were using the Lippert Schwintek slides.  I believe that Hank is right on target with his thought that a bare spot on a wire is touching metal--likely in that "small wire bundle" he identified.  The slide system operates on 12-volts DC (from the house batteries), so we aren't talking about a 120-volt AC issue here, but it definitely should NOT be sparking.  The slide frame and RV chassis metal will be a ground potential, so if there is a bare spot on a powered wire or connection you will definitely get a "spark" when it touches metal during movement.  The circuit will be fused, so if the contact were to be solid/permanent, the fuse should blow preventing excessive current.  The two or three "sparks" indicate that the contact is momentary and transient.

I would think that the bare spot should be pretty easy to locate and remedy if you can get reasonable access to the wire bundle in that area.  As Don says though, if the slide has to come out to access the wiring that would usually mean using an RV service point for most of us.

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Tips and Tricks / Re: Setting up levelers, slide out and awning - best practice

« on: June 16, 2024, 12:40:54 am »

Hello Kathleen--

I don't really have much to add to the comments that you originally posted, and Sharon's confirmation of those.  You both have pretty well identified the prescribed sequence of the proper set-up process for your RV.
I concur that I ALWAYS deploy the leveler's before extending the slide, and I do think that can be important, especially in some circumstances.  On my 2019, with the Model 725 automatic leveling system, the system will function with or without the engine running--although as with all HWH systems, the parking brake MUST be set.  It IS important, I think to have some source of power (other than just batteries) whenever operating a higher-current-draw system (such as he levelers or slide room).  That supply can be from the generator, being plugged in to shore power, or (at least in my case) from having the coach engine running.  Fully charged house batteries should certainly provide adequate system voltage on their own to operate those systems, but there is no sense in stressing things when you can easily provide auxiliary voltage from an outside source.

As stated, the slide should ALWAYS extend or retract fully (not partially) every movement (in or out), and allowing the slide motors a few seconds to synchronize at the end of each movement before you release the switch will help prevent issues.

I rarely use my awning, so I cannot comment on the parking brake question--I just don't know.  The ignition safety feature is logical to prevent awning damage--but it's a good practice NOT to leave the ignition key in the ignition once the coach is parked and set up anyway.  I always pull my key and store is in a dash cup holder until I'm ready to get back on the road.  As Sharon says, having a regular sequence that you follow each time you stop overnight or for a stay will help ensure everything get addressed and nothing is overlooked.

Mike

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General Discussion / Re: Awning tie downs

« on: April 21, 2024, 12:08:26 am »

I have not used tie-downs with my awning.  I would typically not have it extended in any type of heavy weather, and otherwise it seems to work well for me without tie-downs.  I have had it automatically retract on an occasion or two with a gust of wind, but that hasn't caused any issues.

I do use jack pads if not leveling on concrete, but not the clip-on type.  My pads are the commercial heavy rubber type a little larger than the jack feet.  I usually drop the jacks vertically then slide the pad in place under the foot.  It's a little awkward with my reduced mobility, but still doable, and only takes a few seconds per pad.

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General Discussion / Re: Ford E450 6.8L Coolant

« on: April 05, 2024, 08:07:08 pm »

Hank,

I have the same 2018 E450 chassis and 6.8L engine that you do on my 2019 2552, purchased new from Phoenix.  I have never yet had to add coolant, and after 5+ years and roughly 15000 miles of service, my level (cold) is about 1" below that "Fill" indicator line you reference.

If the Ford manual you mention is the same one I have, (I bet it is), all the information you're seeking is in there under the "Capacities and Specifications" section.  Be sure you look at the charts for the 6.8L 10-cylinder engine rather than the 6.2L 8-cylinder engine.   The capacities (oil, coolant, etc.) are different although the specifications are the same.  Ford recommends the same stuff for both engines.

The color of your coolant originally was orange--although Ford advises us in that same manual that "under normal operation the color can change to pinkish or light red".  They also advise that the color change is normal and is no cause for replacement.  The color of the coolant in my engine is pink now also.  They strongly caution against mixing colors of antifreeze, or using the "one type fits all" kind.

I would advise using OEM coolant if you want to add some.  The coolant specified by Ford is "Ford Motocraft Orange Pre-diluted Antifreeze Coolant, part number VC-3DIL-B".  Specification number is WSS-M97B44-D2.  This coolant is for all 6.8L 10-cylinder engines manufactured after 7/11/16.  The coolant should be available at major parts houses, and certainly from Ford dealerships.  A search of that Ford part number online returns a number of places to order it, including Amazon, if you'd rather not have to go to the store.

All the best,       Mike

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General Discussion / Re: Maybe exciting new alternative for Onan generator

« on: February 23, 2024, 09:06:45 am »

I'm not sophisticated enough in the language to tell if this Flexpower can be wired into the coach so it can be started from the inside like my Onan? I assume it can.

Yes, they have a remote start kit that is essentially just like the Onan remote start panel.  According to their data, they have incorporated the "prime" function into their start process, so even though they have a "Prime" button, you normally don't need to use it when starting--just push the start and it will automatically prime then start.  The rest of the panel is pretty much like Onan's--gives the hour meter reading, and reports error codes if required.  It also evidently provides maintenance reminders for oil changes, air and fuel filter replacement, etc, at the required intervals.
Mike

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General Discussion / Re: Maybe exciting new alternative for Onan generator

« on: February 22, 2024, 10:17:34 am »

Interesting unit.  I hadn't run across them, though they've been available for a couple years.  Looks like their efficiency improvement, reduced fuel usage, and "quieter operation" comes primarily from a significant reduction in the engine size--about 30% smaller than the Onan 4000.

Because they incorporate an inverter unit, in addition to lower harmonic distortion they can run at variable RPM (2200-3600) for lighter loads as opposed to the constant 3600 of the Onan.  That should help the noise environment as well.  That also allows them to energize the main generator to start the engine rather than needing a separate starter motor.

This is overall an advanced design incorporating newer technology over the venerable Onan 4000 RV generator.  Based on advertised price, they've done it at a cost lower than the Onan.  I think about the only thing remaining to assess is long-term reliability, and that is just going to require time to see how well they hold up.
Mike

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General Discussion / Re: Winter Driving and Camping

« on: January 03, 2024, 06:20:15 pm »

I'm not familiar with the TRX plumbing layout, but I'd bet it's the same as the regular PC models which have all the fresh water lines above the floor--essentially inside the coach.  That means that as long as you keep the coach heated, it's an all-weather unit.  Yes, you should run the black and gray tank heaters in temps below freezing, along with keeping the water heater on.  I don't even think you'll have problems with the outside shower, but your efforts to remove or insulate can't hurt.

My only experience traveling in sub-freezing temperatures was when I picked up my new 2552 in 2019 at the factory in Elkhart.  It was early February, and I took delivery in the middle of a snowstorm and really low temps.  I stayed in an Elkhart RV park for a couple of days getting my TOAD set up to tow, then spent two more days traveling through snow and ice back south to Oklahoma.  Had a full water load and fluids in both tanks.  Absolutely no problems from temperatures that dipped into single digits.  As long as tank heaters are working and the interior remains heated, you'll be good to go.
Mike

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General Discussion / Re: upgrading to lithium batteries and dealing with charging from the alternator

« on: December 08, 2023, 11:35:30 pm »

OK--let me take the wires directly from your post one at a time and address them that way.

"I went back to my RV to try and trace where some more of the wires went and this is what I came up with:
from the 3 small wires that came from the one small post, one of the red wires went up and through the firewall into the area under the drivers side console area and I could not figure where it went after it came out from the fire wall."  This is the wire that I said is providing a "key-on" feed from that solenoid terminal TO some other circuit that needs voltage only when the key switched on.  I'm not sure exactly what circuit that is--it would not be a OEM-Ford chassis item, but something that Phoenix installed when they built the coach.  It is feeding voltage FROM that solenoid terminal to something.

"the other small red wire from the same post, went to a group of wires which went into a socket that plugged into another socket and that group of wires went up and ran along a channel at the firewall, but I am not sure were it went from there.  What I found interesting was the other wires that came out of where the red wire went into went for about three inches, was all taped up and was a dead end (was not attached to anything).  I will try and post some pictures of that."  This particular red wire is providing the 12-volt signal to energize the solenoid when the key is switched on.  It is feeding voltage TO that small solenoid terminal from a Ford wiring plug that Ford furnishes in the wiring to provide power for needed add-on circuits.  There are two of those plugs, one is battery (full-time) 12-volts, and one is key-switched 12-volts; that particular one is the key-switched 12 volts.  For the purpose of a wiring diagram, it essentially feeds from the key switch.

The one black wire that came from the same post as the two red wires wrapped around and up through the firewall and out to under the console area where it looks like it is attached to the White momentary switch.  This black wire will feed 12-volts  from the "white switch" TO the solenoid terminal when the "white switch" is pushed.  It is how the solenoid can be energized when you turn the key on but the Ford chassis battery is too dead to do it (the white switch gets its 12-volts from the house batteries). 

Now from the fuse/breaker, the black wire that comes off the post goes up to the firewall same place the other black wire went comes out the other side and is connected to the other end of the momentary switch.  This is the 12-volt feed TO the white switch from the house batteries--that 40-amp self-resetting circuit breaker terminal is connected to the house batteries.

Finally the red wire coming off the fuse/breaker goes up to and through the firewall together with the other wires mentioned and out the other side.  I was unable to determine where this wire goes.  Looks like it went under the carpet on the drivers side.  This is the wire that goes to the positive terminal on the house batteries.  It provides the alternator charge current to the house batteries when the solenoid is energized.  Where it actually connects could vary--on my 2019, it actually goes to the positive battery terminal of my house batteries, but it could tie anywhere into the main positive circuit and work the same.  Electrically you could show it just going to the house battery positive terminal.

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General Discussion / Re: upgrading to lithium batteries and dealing with charging from the alternator

« on: December 08, 2023, 01:25:52 am »

I was going to post a wiring diagram that Randy Hyde had posted here about a year ago, but I see that CalCruiser beat me to it.  That diagram was for his 2008 2350, so should be fairly close to your original layout.  There have been some minor changes in Phoenix Cruiser wiring over the years, and different components used, but the battery isolation solenoid you refer to has been pretty consistent. As you probably know, the purpose of that solenoid is to connect the the house batteries to the Ford engine battery (when the solenoid is energized) to allow the alternator feed to also charge the house batteries.  The solenoid is energized when the key switch is turned to "ON"; the rest of the time it is de-energized, isolating the engine and house batteries from each other.

Wiring, as I said, can vary slightly--but basically the wire on one of the big solenoid posts connects to the (Ford) chassis battery as you noted, and the other big post feeds a 40-amp self-resetting circuit breaker (the thing you call a fuse) and from there that wire runs to the house batteries.  The two small posts energize the solenoid.  One goes to ground, the single black wire that you noted.  The other post has at least two wires--one is a feed from the "ON" circuit of the key switch which energizes the solenoid when you turn the switch on.  That wire doesn't normally come from the key switch itself--I believe on my 2019 rig it comes from a terminal in the under hood Ford fuse block that is energized with key-on.  The second wire, as you guessed, feeds from the "white switch".  Depressing the "white switch" allows you to directly energize the solenoid (if your Ford battery is dead) to connect the chassis battery with the house batteries to slowly back-feed some charge into the Ford battery from hot house batteries.  The "white switch" gets it's feed from the house batteries--frequently by tying onto that 40-amp breaker under the hood (that second wire on the other side of that breaker you mentioned is likely your feed to the "white switch").  You also mentioned in your application a third wire on that small hot solenoid terminal--I'm not sure what that is; most likely it is picking up a key-on 12-volt feed for something, since that post gets hot when the key goes on.

I have not done a lithium upgrade on my unit yet, but in reading posts here from those that have the usual process when installing a DC to DC charger seems to be to simply disconnect the solenoid system.  The main wires could be simply removed and taped (insulated)--that would effectively eliminate that system.  You would lose your ability to back-feed charge to your chassis battery by use of the "white switch", but there would be no other problem.  If you leave the solenoid and small wires attached--even that third wire feed would still be active for whatever it does.

Best of luck,      Mike

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General Discussion / Re: 120v AC system on 2022 2552

« on: November 27, 2023, 07:15:56 pm »

Thanks for the input.  How do I distinguish between inverter AC outlet and regular AC outlet?

With no A/C applied to the coach (not plugged in--no generator--basically with the RV just parked and off), turn on your inverter.  The A/C outlets that have power are inverter supplied; the others are not.