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Messages - mikeh

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General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself!
« on: May 30, 2023, 05:37:48 pm »
Hi David and Wife!
Glad to have you here!  Looks like you bring a wealth of RV experience, so we look forward to learning from you in the future.
I think your interest in a Phoenix Cruiser B+ is well placed--given what you indicate that you're targeting.  You'll find relative quality with Phoenix, and you already know about the "compromise", so you should be able to nail down what you want.  There are years of thoughts and comments on the forum on almost every RV subject, so spend some time browsing past discussions or use the search to target specifics.
Again, glad to have you!

General Discussion / Re: Introduce Yourself!
« on: May 28, 2023, 11:00:48 pm »
Welcome, NC--
Good choice on the Phoenix Cruiser!  There's quite a bit of background available here on the forum that should help get you up to speed by the time you buy.  Your automotive background will be helpful as well.  Don't hesitate to post specific questions if any come up.


General Discussion / Re: Connecting HR24 DTV Rcvr to T4 Riadtrip
« on: April 27, 2023, 09:13:40 am »

The RCA plugs do NOT factor in.  I assume you have that audio/video amplifier with RCA connections for those cables mounted on the back wall of that compartment, as most units do, but it typically is unused and doesn't really do anything--I de-powered mine by removing the white power connection on the side to eliminate the parasitic drain from it.

That second cable that you describe coming "through the wood wall at the front" may be your coax feed running back to the bedroom TV connection--I understand that Phoenix ran that circuit regardless of whether the second bedroom TV option was installed in the RV or not.  Mine has the circuit, and I don't have a second TV.

The second cable from my Winegard dish antenna that hooks to tuner 2 runs in parallel with the cable (with the tape) for tuner 1.  In my installation, both exit from a hole in the back corner of that compartment, next to the Winegard antenna power switch.  If I remember correctly (it's been several years), when I did my set-up I couldn't find the second cable either and Phoenix advised that it would be coiled up behind the wall or something--I may have had to remove the Winegard power switch plate to find it and pull it out.  In any case, the second coax was there, and now exits from the same hole as the primary coax.


General Discussion / Re: Connecting HR24 DTV Rcvr to T4 Riadtrip
« on: April 26, 2023, 11:40:11 pm »
In my 2019 2552, the primary coax for the #1 tuner is marked with a wrapping of tape near the connection.  Phoenix advised me of that when I checked trying to set up my receiver.  I assume they used that as a standard mark for all the installations.

General Discussion / Re: HR24 dvr for direct tv
« on: April 09, 2023, 01:38:56 am »
Hank, I'm not that knowledgeable on DirecTV components.  However, I did a quick search on the internet and from what I can find the last number indicates the manufacturer.  I didn't know it, but evidently DirecTV has the same receiver manufactured by a variety of companies. The statement is that "They give the manufacturers a set of specifications and they make the units."'
Here is one list that I located that is supposed to be the manufacturer code:
-100 Thomson
-200 Samsung
-300 Philips
-400 Hughes
-500 Humax
-600 LG
-700 Pace
-800 NEC
I don't know whether you checked with Winegard?  That's where I bought my HR24--but I don't see one listed on their site now (they list the H24).  They were helpful in consulting and providing advice on my setup when I contacted them.  Another company which sells receivers and provides consultations is Solid Signal.  I've never talked with them, but they have a reputation as being knowledgeable and helpful.  They currently have HR24s listed as available.  They offer a phone number to consult with their "DirecTV Experts".

General Discussion / Re: Lithium batteries and starting the generator
« on: April 07, 2023, 11:51:23 pm »
Guys, for what it's worth the actual re-settable circuit breaker that Phoenix installed in the generator cranking circuit in our PCs is a 120-amp breaker.  You will find it installed on the back wall of the battery compartment along with the two big main fuses.  Again, while inrush current to the starter is significant, it's extremely short duration.  Once the starter motor is turning, current drops to a fixed stabilized value depending on battery voltage and ambient temperature for the duration of cranking.  As Don implies, this is not a large engine--actual rating is 9.3HP on the new 4K models.  This is essentially a lawn mower starter, and a small one at that.  I've seen cranking current stabilized at 70 amps on these starters, but that was on the larger Marquis Gold 5500KW unit.  The 4KW should normally be less.

Regarding Onan's requirements for starting:  The current Onan Installation Manual for the new MicroLite 4000 series states the following:
"Use rated cranking current as the basis for calculating battery cable size. Rated cranking current for these gensets is 180 amperes at 0 degrees F−18 degrees C. The cables should be sized so that voltage across the cranking motor terminals will be within 1 volt of the voltage across the battery terminals."
The "rated cranking current" is NOT the actual current that will normally be employed in cranking.  That is the target current to design the installation (cable size, etc) to support, just like the battery requirements are 360 Cold Cranking Amps above 32 degrees, and 450 CCA below 32 degrees.  Again, the circuit breaker that Phoenix put in the cranking circuit is 120 amps, so even under the worst condition your current draw would be appreciably under that.

General Discussion / Re: Lithium batteries and starting the generator
« on: April 06, 2023, 10:59:52 am »
Mike----I hesitate to comment on this issue because I haven't yet made the move to lithium--so can't speak from direct experience.  However there are a couple of considerations to keep in mind just based on electrical reality that might factor into your decision.

I assume you have separated the generator starting current requirements into the brief "inrush" demand, and the actual cranking current needed for longer duration.  The CCA requirement specified by Onan (450 amps or whatever) relates to inrush--which on the Onan 4000 has been measured at about 350 amps but exists for less than 500 milliseconds.  Actual cranking current depends on battery voltage, but should run about 70-75 amps for whatever duration until the generator starts.

Also, the actual longer duration cranking current will depend on battery voltage under load (while the 70-75 amps are being pulled).  The DC starter motor is pretty much a constant wattage demand, so the more the battery voltage drops under load, the higher the current draw will be.  As I understand, lithium batteries hold much higher voltage under load compared to lead-acid (either flooded or AGMs).  Where a single lead-acid engine battery might drop to 10 volts or less under a cranking load (though the house battery bank shouldn't drop that low just cranking the generator), a lithium under the same conditions will hold 12 volts--reducing the actual current draw for the same power output.

These may be some of the reasons why, in actual experience, folks have no problems with their lithium setup handling the generator demand, even with lower state-of-charge.

General Discussion / Re: 12 volt plug
« on: April 04, 2023, 10:07:14 am »
I'm still riding on the original Hankook tires which are still in excellent shape.  First time I've owned the brand, but they've been good tires and I wouldn't hesitate to buy them again.  If you do a search on "Tires" on this forum, you can get years of input and opinions.

General Discussion / Re: DISH Network with Winegard RoadTrip P4 Dome
« on: March 26, 2023, 06:39:04 pm »
I hooked up the small "secondary" Direct TV receiver from our spare bedroom (CK something or other) to determine what satellite is already set up since we have not used it after the previous owner. The dome recognized it, even tried to do a setup,  but soon the yellow network light on the front started flashing. I rebooted several times and got same result. May because it is now separated from the main genie in the living room and can't connect with it?  Maybe only the main genie works? 

Hank, it sounds like the receiver you used from your bedroom is a "client" receiver--and you're exactly right.  Those have to connect with the main genie to function--although they take a coax connection, they can't decode signals on their own.  The HR-24 is likely your least expensive option to get up and running.  According to the literature I received with my dome--the dip switches were set from the factory for DirecTV, and would need to be reset for Dish.  It would be helpful to know what the previous owner used, but I'm sure you can sort it out.
For what it's worth, I'm now fairly confident that the high-definition question has been misunderstood--for DirecTV, I believe it is just some transponders on certain satellites or bands on satellites that won't provide HD.

General Discussion / Re: DISH Network with Winegard RoadTrip P4 Dome
« on: March 24, 2023, 10:32:18 pm »


My Road Trip 4000T does show switch settings for Direct TV use,

Specs show:

•   One button operation
•   Supports up to two single or one
dual receiver
•   Depending on receiver type and
location, can access the following
 Western Arc:
110°, 119°, 129°
DISH Hybrid:
110°, 119°, 61.5°
DISH Eastern Arc:
61.5°, 72°, 77°
DIRECTV®:119° or 101° (will not receive
HD on 110° or any KA-band HD on 99° and 103°)
Bell TV™: 91° or 82°[/quote]


Don, your information may shed some light on the "HD or No HD" issue.

I just double checked and see that on my DirectTV feed, virtually all the usable signal strength comes from satellite transponders on the 101 (32 transponders) and 119 (11 transponders) degree satellites.  We're pulling zeros from the 3 transponders at 110 degrees, and there are NO KA-band units at 99 or 103 degrees--only 96 more transponders on CA, CB and S bands on those satellites--all of which have more depressed signal strength.

It just may be that there IS in fact HD capability on most of those transponders, and somehow the fact that it's not on 110 or the KA band of 99 and 103 got misunderstood as applying to everything.  That is much more in line with what I've seen on my RV TV---I KNOW that picture had to be HD!

Thanks,    Mike

General Discussion / Re: DISH Network with Winegard RoadTrip P4 Dome
« on: March 24, 2023, 02:46:00 pm »
As Don said in his first post--I think I am the "Mike" you mentioned in your original post, and the information you recall regarding the Direct TV use in the RV were mine.  Actually--here is a link to that thread that you said you couldn't locate--it will take you to my 2019 post, but you can access the whole thread from there:  https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3845.msg33380#msg33380

YES--I had ordered my 2019 2552 with the Winegard RoadTrip dome with the automatic satellite location but not the more expensive "in-motion" option, since I would be traveling alone most of the time.  When I finally got around to setting it up several months later, I remember researching options to do that, and ended up using information from Winegard as my primary guide.  I, too, had been a long-time Direct TV user in my home--so wanted to go with that if possible since I was familiar with the system.  Following Winegard's recommendation, I ordered a separate receiver from them--it was the Direct TV HR-24 unit, though it seems now that they may have mentioned a couple of options, and by now another model may be a better recommendation.  In any case, the HR-24 was $200 up front (from Winegard), plus a $7 ongoing monthly charge on my Direct TV bill.  I don't remember the in's and out's on the SWM guidance, but my 2019 post DOES mention that the SWM possibly should be used with that particular antenna--HOWEVER I definitely am NOT using SWM in my RV installation--just the regular power adapter to the receiver, and everything works great.  My home Genie system can display/record five simultaneous programs; I don't remember how many the HR-24 can support, but I have never had need to record more than one while watching something else.

I had actually forgotten that bit about no HD on that setup, and if you had asked me today if I get HD in my RV I would have told you YES--the picture on that 32-inch Samsung is that good.  However, I definitely see looking back at my 2019 message that I confirmed that the setup does not provide HD.  I see a BIG difference on my home TV's between SD and HD, so because I just don't remember any disappointment or concerns with the picture in my RV, I'm almost tempted to go to the RV and try to fire the system up to confirm that it's not HD.  I usually readily notice that stuff, and I have been perfectly happy with the quality of that picture.  Just thought I'd update this discussion with what I can offer currently.


General Discussion / Re: Black and gray tank sensors
« on: March 12, 2023, 12:40:04 am »
All sensors work (tho not terribly accurately) in our 2007 2350 (85,000 miles). But from what I read online, it is not at all unusual for them to NOT work in the RV world. There are solutions I've seen (maybe even somewhere on this forum), but I think the best one is to install new improved sensors and start from scratch.

Has anyone installed the See Level system themselves rather than having the PC factory replace the existing tank monitor system?  If you have please provide details on how you installed and connected the wiring.   Thanks

The usual solution suggested for erratic tank sensors is to clean the tanks annually or so with a bleach solution.  Several forum comments over the years maintain that keeping them cleaner improves reliability.  As flei states, replacing the standard "button type sensors" has been reported to be a more permanent solution.  Take a look at this string of eight postings from three years ago where Lance replaced his button sensors in his 2552 with the "Horst Miracle Probes"--he includes a link to a video of how to remove the sensors, and followed up a year later to report that the Horst Probes were working great:

DKCruzer--if you look at the above message string, you will also see a posting from WillLloyd where he reports that he installed the See Level system in his PC and that it was easy to install and used the existing wiring.

I had the SeeLevel II system installed by Phoenix when they built my 2019 2552, and haven't regretted it.  It's been a reliable system so far and I have gotten used to knowing where my tank levels are at all times within a couple of percent.

General Discussion / Re: House Battery Monitor Cable Routing
« on: March 07, 2023, 09:32:58 am »
I suspected that the relay may be on the back wall of the battery compartment. (I have not yet looked that closely in there.)
That may be a good spot to mount the shunt.

That is where Phoenix mounted my shunt when they built my 2019 2552.  I had them install the TriMetric TM2030RV monitor system (and their solar controller for my solar panels).  By the time they were building 2019 units, Phoenix was no longer using the battery disconnect that used a latching relay--the negative cables connect directly to the disconnect switch.  However, the shunt still installs electrically into the main negative cable.  If the latching relay in your unit is on the back wall--should certainly be possible to install the shunt there and re-connect things electrically.

General Discussion / Re: Interior LED Light Strips
« on: February 08, 2023, 10:53:45 pm »
Barry, your description of generator starting definitely sounds like a house battery issue.  Doesn't sound like the batteries were up adequately to crank the generator, but when you started the Ford engine, the additional output from the alternator put you over the hump and the genny started.  Since you said you've had the unit plugged in, your converter/charger should have kept the batteries charged.  Easy enough to check status if you have a voltmeter.  I don't know what type batteries you have--if they're sealed AGMs, electrolyte should be fine; if they're flooded lead-acid (FLAs), I assume you've maintained electrolyte level in the cells--you probably know that the FLAs are subject to boiling dry if they stay on the converter charge for an extended period without water replenishment.  Regarding age--well-maintained batteries of either type should be OK at five years, but the FLAs deteriorate pretty quickly if their electrolyte drops.

Regardless of battery condition, while you're plugged in the converter/charger should be providing adequate system voltage to your 12-volt circuits, and sounds like it is.  Consequently, your 12-volt overhead lights work.  I would certainly agree that means your strip LEDs should be working too.  I know of no reason why bad house batteries could affect just the LED strip units--they pull less current than the ceiling lights and if those work normally the strip lights should.  They do have that sensitive sensing circuit for the "touch-on/off" feature, so to eliminate some crazy reason why the converter/charger could somehow be the culprit for just those lights, you could unplug from your 50 amp and start the Ford engine.  Then your 12-volt circuits would be getting power from the engine alternator instead of the converter-charger.  All lights should also function under that arrangement; I wouldn't expect that to make a difference, but it's easy to check.
It really sounds like:  #1--you need to inspect/test your house batteries, and #2--you're just not getting voltage to that strip light circuit, like the 12-volt circuit fuse is blown.  I don't know WHICH 12 circuit they are on, or if they're the only thing on that circuit, but I do know that all are on the same circuit.  If you haven't already, I would carefully check fuses.  You may have pulled and re-installed them (as suggested in that Facebook post), but that wouldn't correct a bad fuse.

General Discussion / Re: Interior LED Light Strips
« on: February 08, 2023, 05:22:53 pm »
Barry, I saw that you got an answer on the Facebook site about this issue suggesting pulling/checking 12-volt fuses to "reset".  That sounds like a good place to start to try to correct the problem of your strip lights not turning on.

You may know that these "touch" type strip lights are very sensitive to RFI (Radio Frequency Interference)--not the light itself, but the "touch" circuit for it.  Your initial issue of finding some lights on was certainly the result of a power failure, as you said.  When power is suddenly re-applied to the completely dead 12-volt circuit for these lights, the initial current "surge" though the circuit generates a RFI pulse which activates the touch circuit and turns the lights on.  The same thing happens if (without the engine running) you have your main battery switch OFF and turn it back ON, or if your main battery switch is OFF and you start the Ford engine--in each case when 12 volts is suddenly applied to the circuit these touch strip lights typically turn on by themselves.

I'm not sure WHY the lights most recently remained non-working after you cleaned battery cables (assume you mean the house batteries).  Sure sounds like that particular circuit didn't have voltage, but there are several variables.  Did you remain connected to shore power during that time?  Did you leave the main battery switch ON or OFF?  All I can say for certain is while these lights seem pretty reliable, they are absolutely sensitive to any power manipulation or abnormality on their circuit.

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