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Messages - Volkemon

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1
There is an extablished axiom about 4-Wheel Drive that is regarded as being established, accepted, and self-evidently true:  "all it does is allow to get stuck in more inaccessible places"..

AMEN.   :)(:

@Flei - I have a 2006 2350, and drive it regularly as a 'video shoot support vehicle' towing a box trailer.

Indeed adding a bunch of suspension improvements will improve the ride and handling. I found addressing the root cause of the handling was the key:

The front springs are too dang strong for the vehicle. The factory would have to re-certify the entire setup to change them from factory, and that would be WAY too much $$$$. 

So to make it so the alignment can even be put to spec, special  camber bushings are required. These ARE permitted to be added.


To address the root cause, I had the front springs changed out to a set that were made 2" lower, and 10% softer.  WOW.  What a difference. RonD did similar with some 'off the shelf' springs. 

The first good sign was that the special camber bushings had to be swapped out for the stock. This means that we are closer to what the engineers intended.  (cheer)

What a difference. Without upgrading the front sway bar, adding a rear sway bar, and/or adding expensive shocks, it rides totally different. SO nice.

I can be loaded, with trailer, fighting a seabreeze as I head down the coastal highways and steer simply with one hand. Trucks passing in either direction cause no distress.

With the front end in proper geometry, it works like it should without a bunch of band aids.   

So maybe consider springs first, then additional parts added after as needed.  You might be pleasantly surprised.


I modified my macerator to have the 'bayonet' mounting and QD's on the wiring so it isnt on there all the time... as we use the 'stinky slinky' 99% of the time.   BUT.. having said that, the macerator has been  the 'Ace in the Hole' a few times when leaving festivals at odd hours, with tanks full.  Macerator + Port-O-Lets =  empty tanks going home.  2o2  So it gets carried along for 'those' times.

RE: cab creaks and separation...  I went through and rebuilt mine, and it is TIGHT. Went from sounding like an old ship at sea to 'squeak free'.  Little out of the scope of most owners, but very rewarding.

Good to read about your 2350.  I could not be happier with ours. Full body paint is in the works... cant wait!!

2
General Discussion / Re: OCCC for 2100 & 2400
« on: May 10, 2023, 11:28:10 am »
If they buy used it could be on an E-350 chassis or even a sprinter.
Exactly   ;)

I get a chuckle out of how such a simple number, required by DOT and posted in every RV, can be so illusive and people refer to recognize it, or its significance.  :lol

Illusive... "" Something that is illusive is based on an illusion, on something that is not true or real.""  Pretty sure the OCCC is based on reality, however elusive it can be to your searches.

Best of luck with your search.  Especially buying used.   Try posting this question on the PC facebook page, there is a good chance a 2100/2400 owner can chime in.

3
General Discussion / Re: Voltage Drop - NOT Park Problem
« on: October 09, 2022, 04:20:03 pm »
Volkemon,

He also said voltage at "another" RV outlet dropped below 100."

I presumed he meant another outlet IN the RV rather than the pedestal.

Which is why I suggested he measure the voltage at the pedestal and all the way back to see where the drop occurred.

You lost me there cuz. 

I agree, the OP said "First noticed it when A/C turns on then stumbles. Voltage at another RV outlet dropped well below 100."

I took that to mean that the first indicator of trouble was the operation of the A/C, and a voltage drop was measured at an outlet in the RV, and found to be below 100V. I can see where one could interpret that as 'an outlet in another RV' though!!  2o2

next line of " Problem persists when disconnected from shore power and generator running." would have me thinking its a problem independent of the shore power pedestal, and points before it in the delivery of power. (Or 'all the way back' as you state - is that what 'all the way back' means?) 

But with the kiln comment I was referring to your statement:

 " And now you are saying the kiln IN YOUR SHOP causes it?

You are on your own bud."


I misunderstood apparently. I thought your deliberate use of capital letters saying 'IN YOUR SHOP'  meant that you thought that the kiln was plugged in inside their shop. Not from the shop, and plugged into the RV as a high current draw test. My bad.  :)(:


But really... we are talking about a pretty simple electrical system. A voltmeter and suitable tools for access to testing points should have the problem isolated in little more time than it takes to get things apart to measure voltage.



Thru Traffic - 

We are dealing with a 30A service. One A/C unit on the coach, and that unit was operating.

The operation of this A/C was a primary indicator alerting you to the problem. Primarily by a 'stumble' after starting, but once it has tripped the 20A breaker.

A/C is now turned off.

Testing voltage at an outlet in the RV, while using appliances installed in the RV OR other appliances plugged into the RV as a current draw test, you found less than 100V.

With no appliances drawing power, the voltage measured at the outlet is very close to measured pedestal voltage.

Am I right so far?

If not, please correct me.   2o2



 

If so.... BEGIN DIAGNOSTICS!!!  (cheer)


TEST CONDITION: Shore power unplugged, generator supplying electricity. Transfer switch has closed, powering coach area from generator. Voltage initially being measured at an outlet in the RV.

Repeat the current draw test, and measure voltage at the outlet that was low before.

Does the outlet reads low voltage?

If no, proceed to  " SHORE POWER ON" below.

If yes, continue.


There is a circuit breaker that supplies the outlet you are measuring with electricity via a screw terminal, with a wire attached. Locate this breaker.  Does the low voltage reading appear at this screw terminal also when you repeat the current draw test?
 
If no, there is a problem between the breaker terminal and outlet. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, we must go closer to the source. Remove the cover on the breaker box, and measure the voltage on the bus that the breaker gets its power from. Repeat the current draw test.

Does the voltage on the bus drop?

If no, there is an internal fault in the breaker. Replace with a known good one. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, we still must keep 'going back' towards the source.

The transfer switch feeds the power to the bus in the breaker box. Repeat current draw test, and see if the voltage drop is observed at the output side of the transfer switch.

If no, its a fault between the transfer switch and the breaker box. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, then repeat the current draw test while measuring the voltage on the generator supply side of the transfer switch.

Does the voltage drop again?

If no, the fault lies in the transfer switch. It is getting good power, and not passing it through. Replace with a known good one, and repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, repeat the current draw test while measuring the voltage coming from the generator. If there are any intermediate junction boxes between the generator and the transfer switch, be sure to test them independently.

Is there a drop in voltage still observed?

If yes, that would indicate an internal generator fault.  Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If no, there is a fault in the connections between the generator and transfer switch. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

Continue on to the next section.



SHORE POWER ON

TEST CONDITIONS:  Generator off, Shore power on and supplying coach with power. Voltage being measured at an outlet in the RV.

Repeat the current draw test, and measure voltage at the outlet that was low before.

Does the outlet reads low voltage?

If no, you have no problems indicated. It works fine on Generator or shore power.

If yes, continue.


There is a circuit breaker that supplies the outlet you are measuring with electricity via a screw terminal, with a wire attached. Locate this breaker.  Does the voltage drop appear at this screw terminal also when you repeat the current draw test?
 
If no, there is a problem between the breaker terminal and outlet. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, we must go closer to the source. Remove the cover on the breaker box, and measure the voltage on the bus that the breaker gets its power from. Repeat the current draw test.

Does the voltage on the bus drop?

If no, there is an internal fault in the breaker. Replace with a known good one. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, we still must keep 'going back' towards the source.

The transfer switch feeds the power to the bus in the breaker box. Repeat current draw test, and see if the voltage drop is observed at the output side of the transfer switch.

If no, its a fault between the transfer switch and the breaker box. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, then repeat the current draw test while measuring the voltage on the shore power supply side of the transfer switch.

Does the voltage drop again?

If no, the fault lies in the transfer switch. It is getting good power, and not passing it through. Replace with a known good one, and repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, repeat the current draw test while measuring the voltage coming from the backside of the bulkhead shore power connector. If there are any intermediate junction boxes between the shore power bulkhead connector and the transfer switch, be sure to test them independently.

Is there a drop in voltage still observed?

If no, there is a fault in the connections between the shore power bulkhead connector and transfer switch. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, you must test the connection between the shore power cord and the bulkhead connector. This can be difficult, if not impossible to do without a special testing adapter.

If you are this point, and HAVE A KNOWN GOOD SHORE POWER CORD AND PEDESTAL VOLTAGE, I would feel safe in replacing the shore power bulkhead connector. After doing all the testing above you know that all systems on board are working correctly. As always, Repeat current draw test to verify repair.


There. 'Thats all' you have to do for an orderly diagnostic procedure regarding this complaint. Many simple steps, with yes/no outcomes. NO guessing.

Or you can just start throwing parts at it. Many people use that method.  roflol


This would be easier to read in flow chart format, but text is what I have available to me at this time. Sorry for the difficulty it may cause.








LOL..  next up: the presence of the slide as a contributing factor to many, if not all RV issues.   :cool






4
General Discussion / Oil Gauge or idiot gauge??
« on: October 09, 2022, 10:48:07 am »
Recently had the oil pressure gauge drop to '0' while driving.  :beg  A 'DING' from the dash, the info center said 'Check Gauges' and a small red light lit up below the fuel gauge that said 'Check Gages'. Yes, they were spelled different.  :lol


Stopped, checked things, rolled the window down and CAREFULLY drove home with ears wide open. Sending unit problem was the diagnosis.

Finally went and got a replacement sender unit. KInda small for a gauge output... in my opinion.  (WH)

Just to verify the wiring and gauge itself was OK, I 'shorted' the wire off the sending unit to the block. I was alone, so I took a video to review the test results. Its 15 seconds, check it out.

https://youtu.be/gKG1tlaPjJo

I was a little puzzled.... normally grounding the wire would put the gauge full scale.  This did not. You can see the jump to ~2/3 scale when wire was grounded.  Wire off, and the gauge drops to 0, 'ding' from dash, and red light comes on.

The oil gauge has ALWAYS read at that spot. Does now again.

That gauge is NOT what I thought it was. It will never show me 7/8 scale, 1/4 scale or any other reading but 0 and 2/3.  Its an idiots gauge. Works like an idiot light, but with more 'bells and whistles'.     (exactly)

How idiotic.  It fooled me, however. I had been pleased that Ford gave me both a temperature gauge AND an oil pressure gauge.  Nope. They saved a few bucks and gave us an idiot gauge. Not that big a deal, I think I am 20% irritated that its not a 'real' gauge, and 75% irritated it fooled me this long.  roflol  (5% thinking to myself  'You spent HOW much time to post this?!?  :lol  )

Thought this was of passing interest. Not sure if this applies to the 2008 and later chassis, mine is a 2006.

5
General Discussion / Re: Voltage Drop - NOT Park Problem
« on: October 09, 2022, 10:22:36 am »


I would check voltage at the output of your transfer switch (ideally on both external and generator power).  If it holds relatively normal there when you apply a load, the problem is downstream--probably a high resistance connection somewhere in the main feed wire.  However if it drops there when you apply the load, check the inputs to the transfer switch;. if it drops there check back toward the actual inputs to the coach (at the generator and main cable connector).  Since you said you found no issues under load at the lot power, if you've got a drop at the transfer switch output--the problem has to be somewhere between the two.  The Klein Tools CL380 is a 400 amp meter, so you should be able to check (again at the transfer switch) for excessive current going somewhere with no actual load that you've applied.  That's probably not a high percentage problem, but not impossible.
Mike




This is about as basic a troubleshooting task there is for voltage. MikeH has it right.

 If this doesn't get you started on your own, get a proper diagnostic done before the problem turns ugly. Its not uncommon for the problems that cause voltage drop to cause heat. And/or arcs and sparks in places you cant readily see.

And if his 'first steps' doesn't show the problem, taking measurements 'downstream' to the breakers  would be the next steps. If you are not comfortable opening up the transfer switch, breaker box Etc. and probing for voltage perhaps outside help should be consulted SOON.  I would sorrow to read your RV burnt.

@Donc13 - They said ""My 15a ceramics kiln from my shop causes it.""  FROM. Not IN.   :)(:   I imagine it was handy, and used as a good example of a high load for diagnostics.

6
General Discussion / Re: Shower door replacement 2005 pheonix 2100
« on: September 26, 2022, 04:06:21 pm »
We prefer using a 'regular' curtain now, with the 'Extend A Shower' rod.  Gives more room inside when using the shower, and more room on the commode when not.

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3559.msg30638#msg30638

7
General Discussion / Re: New tires recommendations
« on: September 20, 2022, 11:21:22 pm »

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Agilis+CrossClimate&partnum=275R6ACC&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes


Installing the more capable tire on lighter PCs, makes for a rougher ride, per Volkemon's report with his 2006 2350.


Well, after a few thousand miles on the road I am VERY happy with the tires. Still keep them at 75#, cant say it is a noticeably rough ride. And some of the roads I have been on lately, loaded, it has been tested.  The water shedding properties are AMAZING. Went through a few Florida monsoons now, and the control these tires give me is impressive.

Road noise seemed to lessen as I broke them in. Or I got used to it... But I drive with NO radio or other noisemaker going, so I am attuned to noises from the rig. Old habit from driving the VW Bus... it allows you to hear when parts fall off, making it easier to find them.  roflol  I feel that as an operator of a 'house' rolling down the road at 75MPH, often with my trailer, my attention is to the vehicle and the world around me. PLENTY of entertainment there to keep me occupied.  (exactly) I dont want to be lost in a song when that solar panel on the rig ahead comes for me. That was some awesome video. Close call.

8
General Discussion / Re: replacing an absorption refrigerator with 12-volt
« on: September 20, 2022, 11:10:54 pm »
Hi Dave,

I thought the industry common 3-way fridge, one of the three was 100% 12V.  Is what you seek a lot more energy efficient running on 12V?

Ron

Check out the current draw running on 12V with an absorption frige - chart here - https://lowvoltagecooling.com/how-many-amps-does-a-3-way-fridge-draw-on-battery-power/

9.6 - 19.9 amps.  (nod)

""The newer 12-volt variable speed compressors use about 5 amps until they reach the desired temperature than drops down to about 1/2 -1 amp to maintain the temperature. ""  is pretty darn impressive.

BUT.. I am loving my fridge on propane running down the road and doing gig work. I know there are pros and cons for running propane on the road, but nowhere could I find it illegal to use while underway. Refueling? It should be OFF. 

Anytime we are going to be using propane for an extended period, I attach the refillable tank. Treat the onboard tank as my reserve. Works well for us. And EASY to get refills on the road almost anywhere.

Should our current fridge fail, I would be looking long and hard at a compressor fridge. Running down the road, the charging system would easily supply the needed current. Might be some significant weight savings also.



 

9
General Discussion / Re: Farewell
« on: September 20, 2022, 10:48:54 pm »
Again. Thanks to all for your help, support, and best wishes.  I do have a couple parts left over after the sale.  Let me know if you want any of these items.

3.  Complete ladder


in the garbage already?   :beg

My bad for not stopping in more. HAPPY TRAILS!  All the best.

10
General Discussion / Re: RE-Flooring a 2006 2350
« on: September 20, 2022, 10:42:57 pm »
Just recieved a message with questions on the flooring, figured I would update.

LOVE the flooring. TUFF stuff.  It has had dirty festival boots on it, and audio/video equipment put in and out. Often without much time to spare, we gotta breakdown, pack up and get HOME. (Last weekend it was leaving Jacksonville at 0130 hrs and getting home at 0530   :beg  )   No time for niceties. Stuff gets piled in, often with volunteer help. 65Qt coolers are sometimes scraped across it... full... and NO scratches. Worth every penny.

The noise dampening and heat barrier under the front mat has proved a good value. 4-5 hours driving, and my camera case and other gear on the floor between the seats is barely warm. It is SO quiet in there, I can hear Mrs V asleep in the bed in back. She purrs... it is NOT snoring...  roflol   heartshower heartshower


The one piece rubber mat in the front has also been a boon. The camper has developed a leak, I suspect the awning rail/front cap interface is the source of it. Parked with the nose downhill, especially with the right side low, will have dripping water from the right front corner of the headliner support panel. This drips to the floor, then 'harmlessly' out the passenger footwell.   NO carpet turning into an ecosystem with musty smells.  :lol
Hoping to have it in my shop where I can tear into it while its out of the weather.

I have yet to finish the bathroom floor. Just hasn't made it to the top of the 'honeydo' list.   One of these years...  (WH)


Happy motoring and clear highways to ALL Y'all! 

 

12
General Discussion / Re: Led Tail Lights
« on: July 21, 2022, 08:08:15 am »
Contrary to a friend, who is an accomplished mechanic, the solid state flasher won't solve another issue that would motivate me to shed the resistors. I would like to correct the Flasher and find a replacement that is audible.

$50 here.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174057303651?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

At 85Db, you will hear it over the radio. There is quieter ones also, the 97233 is 60db.

13
General Discussion / Re: Cracked Cab
« on: April 01, 2022, 09:10:44 am »
OW!    Hurts to look at that picture RVRunner.

NO idea if your 2018 was constructed in the same way as our 2006,  but I corrected many mounting flaws in ours. Looking at the damage you have encountered, I think I may have 'dodged a bullet' here.

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3559.msg30570#msg30570     and following post has some of the 'shoring up' I did.


Doing the work on my windshield area and TV mount, the only fasteners between the cabinets/fiberglass cap and the forward cab metal roof area I found were 8 self tapper screws.  EVERY SINGLE ONE had not penetrated into the cabinet wood support it was intended for. I had a short video of that, apparently it got deleted from dropbox.

See the round carriage bolt head next to the socket in the picture below?



I drilled holes through the cabinet floor and fastened the 1/4 wood to the steel. The wood is loaded in shear, so is pretty strong.

There was also a support behind the TV in the front that was not attached at all. Staples used during assembly were too short.  This picture is with the TV support wood removed.  See the heads of the bolts in the wood, with the sawdust all over the headliner support below? Not the two sticking out, but just outboard of them.



This is the bottom as fastened to the steel. The big washer and nut top center.



 The two heads that are sticking out with thread are later fastened though the TV support wood.  They are visible below the glue lines in the picture below.




 (cheer) So whats the point?   (exactly)   (exactly) (exactly) (exactly) (exactly)

I believe that you may be able to secure the cabinets to the cab MUCH MUCH better than they are, and mitigate a lot of the side to side movement of the cabinets and cap. The break in the steel structure is a symptom, not a cause, in my opinion. Trying to fix that crack will not stop the problem at all. Again, just my somewhat educated guess.
   



14
General Discussion / Re: Spare tire
« on: March 22, 2022, 10:53:58 am »
I've heard that if the flat is on the front, you can swap one dually and drive slow to a permanent repair.. If the flat is on the back, leave it and limp to a repair. Correct me if wrong.
Or call AAA. That's my solution.

AAA rocks, but if no cell service....  :beg

I like having the spare, even if I cannot physically change it another person may come by who can. I have been that person in the past.  2o2  Best argument for having a spare and the tools to change it I know of. ( Likewise a basic tool kit and spare fuses, etc. A good Samaritan can be a GREAT Samaritan if the pieces are there to complete a fix.)

Not to mention I love the look of the spare on the back of a PC.  Classic and distinctive. But no accounting for taste, right?  (exactly)

As a 'no other options'  solution, swapping out a tire from the rear may get you to a repair shop. If you are travelling fully laden, I would transfer weight to the front and intact dually side. Transfer weight to the towed vehicle/trailer if you have one. *  Dump all tanks.   Remember, this is a 'no other options'  scenario, OF COURSE you should NEVER just dump tanks on the side of the road.  But if you feel your health or safety is at risk, do what you must.



*send passenger in toad with the bad tire to get fixed? If alone, and if leaving everything on the side of the road is OK, take the bad tire to get fixed with the toad. Having a spare vehicle obviously makes things easier...

15
General Discussion / Re: 4 way water distribution panel question
« on: March 21, 2022, 07:22:15 am »
No personal experience with them, but they did have issues. There are several threads discussing the various issues, I would HOPE they have it worked out by now.

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3229.msg27195

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3690.0

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3229.msg27201

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=2724.msg22375

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