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1

General Discussion / Re: NORCOLD INC N7XFL Polar N7X Series 2-Way AC/LP RV Refrigerator with Fan

« on: February 13, 2025, 10:09:52 pm »

ok, I am sick of fighting the forum posting pics. No pic of the fridge door gap, its about 5 toothpicks wide. The flat ones, not the good round ones. 

Sorry for the attitude. The fridge was a PITA to take the doors off, and to replace them while in the camper. Then install (pretty easy with a lift table  ) and then to find its JUNK.


Time for an adult beverage. Maybe a couple. Its gonna be a long 10 days mopping water from the freezer ceiling each day. 

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General Discussion / Re: NORCOLD INC N7XFL Polar N7X Series 2-Way AC/LP RV Refrigerator with Fan

« on: February 13, 2025, 10:06:16 pm »

OMG... the picture posting here is as good as Norcold Quality Assurance. 

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General Discussion / NORCOLD INC N7XFL Polar N7X Series 2-Way AC/LP RV Refrigerator with Fan

« on: February 13, 2025, 10:02:12 pm »

Well...  Our old Norcold N621L had an issue.

'n' on the display. Power down and back up, ran for a while then... 'n' and wouldn't do anything. 

Found the service bulletin to reset the circuit board, and went to figure out what it was. Using the diagnostics built into it, I found the thermistor on the fridge coils would read fine down to ~45 degrees, then suddenly revert to 73*.  And we have to leave in a day for the next fest.

Tried all over our area, nobody with parts that old. Found it on Amazon for $8, but 2 day delivery.

Found that 50* on the coil triggered the 'watchdog' routine that eventually ends up with the dreaded 'n' on the display. If the coil doesn't get over 50*, it never worries.

ok!  Took resistance readings from the broken thermistor, and got a couple numbers off youtube vids.  Did some back of the napkin math, and figured out that about 22K of resistance from the sender should be ~45* reading. Cannibalized two 11K resistors from an old PC board, put them in series instead of the thermistor, and checked using the onboard diagnostics.

46* reading.    Left the temp setting on 5, put digital thermomter sensors in both the fridge and freezer, and went to the fest.

Worked GREAT! Kept 34* in the fridge, -1 in the freezer. Whole week.

But Mrs V was leery. A new fridge was in the works. Found that the NORCOLD  N7XFL was a direct replacement for the size,and was bigger!  Joy!
(  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZQMJ25J )

And I had an 'off grid' friend that needed an ammonia fridge. Win win.

Local camping world wanted $2450 delivered.  Amazon was about a THOUSAND less. 

So... in it came.  Used the tractor to bring it in from the road, first time seeing an Amazon trailer truck delivering to a house. 

Unboxed, Installed.

WHAT A PIECE OF JUNK!!


In the camper for two days, no food. Testing.  Running, -4 freezer, 34 fridge. YES. We leave in 3 days, Mrs V can start packing it.

BUT.....

Water dripping off the freezer ceiling?!?!?! 1/4" plus frost on the back?!?  (See picture 'Adobe Express' below)

Did I perhaps leave the door slightly ajar? The gasket misaligned?

Nope. The absolute WORST build quality I have seen.   

NO MORE smooth plastic seal seating area. Now its Steel. Probably powder coated, wait for rust in a year MAX. And the 45* butt joint... its an overlap. (Picture KIMG1581 below)

The bottom center piece was so misaligned, the left was a hairline crack. The right side was about 3/16. A wide open groove. (Picture KIMG1579 below)

Fridge was even worse on the groove. (Pic -1583)

The left hand side tight. So before foaming, this took a hit, and misaligned. Then was never fixed, or QC'd. 

Now... the old 6.3 cubic foot N621 (see pic in the next post, I put too many here)  Look at that 20 year old SMOOTH PLASTIC RUST FREE SURFACE!   

The new one is .7 CF bigger. ooOOOOooooh. Same shelves, same glass, same door shelf inserts. I dont know WHERE the extra room is.

But WOW is it doomed to fail. And the most sorrowful thing... MADE WITH PRIDE IN THE USA.       I can only assume it was a DEI hire, and their PRIDE wasn't in their work, but their gender.  (Thanks to CC for that gem.  )

I am going to give it a try for a week, and when we get home process it for a return. And fix the old one, do some restoration on the aged pieces, and reinstall. Probably for another 20 years.

I just have to find/make door panel inserts to get rid of the '70s wood look.

More detail on the install to come later on my 2350 thread. But for now...

DONT BUY THE POS NORCOLD INC N7XFL Polar N7X Series.  What crap.





(and now I have to go resize pictures for the ANTIQUE attachment rules here... 240kb?!? My old phone takes 1.5mB pics..    and it appears that preview doesnt show the pics. Sigh. Hope they show up)

4

General Discussion / Re: PC Forum Unsafe?

« on: February 13, 2025, 08:59:27 pm »

Says Certificate expired 11 days ago when I just logged on. 

5

General Discussion / Re: Onan 4000 Generator - Want To Replace - Alternative?

« on: August 31, 2024, 07:48:21 pm »

Well...SUPER late to this party... Glad you sorted things out.

but as to the original question -

""Has anyone found such a "Magic Genny" that takes up the same space as an Onan 4000?""

As usual, I wont be using readily workable, or generally approved parts and methods. 



The noise from the onboard genset is intolerable for us. Runs well, and gets the job done..... but loud outside and in. I try to remember to exercise it at least once a month.. or two... (Hm.... might just go start that and let it run for a while this evening...)

I now use the Predator 3500, a Honda 'clone' from harbor freight. If we are at a smaller gig, I use a hitch mount rack and put the genset on it. The genset running on that rack is much (MUCH) quieter, and much less vibration. Even right under our heads in bed! Or put the genset on the ground... cant hear it over the AC. Sips gas. (I get 7-8  hrs on a 2 1/2 gallon tank running AC all night)

Will not run the AC and Micro together, but thats OK.  We rarely microwave, and just turn off the AC when we do. Runs AC, fridge and converter loads together with no problem.


Having two of these gensets now, and tinkering on them, I am working out how to replace the Onan with a predator. Electric start already built in... thats a big plus. Weighs 100 pound WITH a tank, little more than 1/2 the weight of the onan.

OF course, I cannot recommend this modification to be done by anyone. Critical safety features built on to the Onan may be difficult or impossible to duplicate safely. The Predator genset is not designed for this use, and undoubtedly the manufacturer would agree it can not be used installed like I discuss.




So please, dont try this at home.      

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General Discussion / Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification

« on: August 31, 2024, 07:24:18 pm »

Thanks for the kind words.

Been busy with video work and work here at the house.

Now with waterproof storage, I will be doing and posting more.

 - The box awning will be replaced by a 14' awning with real support legs...    I know the job is going to involve removing the awning mount/drip rail, and probably taking off both 'seam' trims on the top. The screws holding both are rusting now after ~20 years.

 - I am going to be pulling out the entrance door and frame. The frame has a rustout on the bottom, and the powder coat/paint is flaking off.  The metal step support behind has suffered rust damage also from a previous (fixed) leak.  The electric step mount is rusted on one side now, and the step is unusable without the 'helper' brace. 

 After pulling the door, I plan on re-working the entry step to possibly allow access towards the front.  The area under the floor (where the 'eurochair' once lived) forward of the entry steps is a void. Wasted space.  When I did the floors inside, I installed bolts from the top to make a hanging battery support for my coach batteries.   Move them lower and forward.

Also looking into installing a built in vacuum system also.  Mrs V would LOVE it.


And your favorite.... THE SLIDE OUT!!!       It has a 2x2 steel bar built in the bottom. Steel, and looks like it never had paint or anything. Some serious rust, and degradation of the aluminum where it meets the steel. So far so good..... everything works fine.

But the slide also has the peeling paint/rusting issues.  If it looks like the steel brace is beyond repair.... I may just go ahead and pull the slide, and rebuild a fixed wall. I am building a 5K#  trolley hoist into the shop, so supporting it and pulling the slide out is GREATLY simplified.  Given quite a bit of thought on the wall re-construction also, and even how to replicate the 'vacuumed sandwich' construction method for the plug piece. I will be SURE to get a weight of the slide...a long wondered on number.     

If the slide is still serviceable, at the very least I will get rid of that powered couch/bed.  We have not put it out to a bed since Oct 2018 for my Grandson.  Its heavy, and takes up TOO much room for our use. Will be a dinette, with bountiful storage.

Rear ladder, and top rail coming off also. The screws are still sealed over, but rusted out. The ladder is unusable anyway, and I have NEVER done anything with the top rail.

Once the bones are good, rework the front bumper cover/front flare transition, and probably 2 billion other small things, and FULL BODY PAINT!! 

The road never ends. 


And as always, if you are near the space coast/treasure coast of FL.... 

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General Discussion / Re: 2006 model 2350 Restoration and Modification

« on: August 02, 2024, 11:44:36 am »

Necrobump!! 

In the summer doldrums for music.... its just too darn hot!!!  That is what winter is for.

So....  The PC has a cover now!

Made a 16x48 pole barn, 23' high. 'legal' is 25 here for Agriculture buildings. Lots of recycled content kept things reasonable. Just a LOT of sweat!

Looking forward to getting full body paint on the PC someday..... and now have the place to do it.   

Pre-paint plans are to pull the side entrance door to address some rust issues.
Taking off the box awning, re-sealing awning mount/drain rail, and install new 14' awning. 

SO nice not to worry about the weather now for the bigger projects. 

STILL loving this PC.      


  

EDIT - I had several pictures, but only this one was small enough to fit standards here. :( 

8

General Discussion / Re: Very pleased with reliability of our 2007 2350!!

« on: May 10, 2023, 11:55:12 am »

There is an extablished axiom about 4-Wheel Drive that is regarded as being established, accepted, and self-evidently true:  "all it does is allow to get stuck in more inaccessible places"..

AMEN.   

@Flei - I have a 2006 2350, and drive it regularly as a 'video shoot support vehicle' towing a box trailer.

Indeed adding a bunch of suspension improvements will improve the ride and handling. I found addressing the root cause of the handling was the key:

The front springs are too dang strong for the vehicle. The factory would have to re-certify the entire setup to change them from factory, and that would be WAY too much $$$$. 

So to make it so the alignment can even be put to spec, special  camber bushings are required. These ARE permitted to be added.


To address the root cause, I had the front springs changed out to a set that were made 2" lower, and 10% softer.  WOW.  What a difference. RonD did similar with some 'off the shelf' springs. 

The first good sign was that the special camber bushings had to be swapped out for the stock. This means that we are closer to what the engineers intended. 

What a difference. Without upgrading the front sway bar, adding a rear sway bar, and/or adding expensive shocks, it rides totally different. SO nice.

I can be loaded, with trailer, fighting a seabreeze as I head down the coastal highways and steer simply with one hand. Trucks passing in either direction cause no distress.

With the front end in proper geometry, it works like it should without a bunch of band aids.   

So maybe consider springs first, then additional parts added after as needed.  You might be pleasantly surprised.


I modified my macerator to have the 'bayonet' mounting and QD's on the wiring so it isnt on there all the time... as we use the 'stinky slinky' 99% of the time.   BUT.. having said that, the macerator has been  the 'Ace in the Hole' a few times when leaving festivals at odd hours, with tanks full.  Macerator + Port-O-Lets =  empty tanks going home.    So it gets carried along for 'those' times.

RE: cab creaks and separation...  I went through and rebuilt mine, and it is TIGHT. Went from sounding like an old ship at sea to 'squeak free'.  Little out of the scope of most owners, but very rewarding.

Good to read about your 2350.  I could not be happier with ours. Full body paint is in the works... cant wait!!

9

General Discussion / Re: OCCC for 2100 & 2400

« on: May 10, 2023, 11:28:10 am »

If they buy used it could be on an E-350 chassis or even a sprinter.

Exactly … 

I get a chuckle out of how such a simple number, required by DOT and posted in every RV, can be so illusive and people refer to recognize it, or its significance. 

Illusive... "" Something that is illusive is based on an illusion, on something that is not true or real.""  Pretty sure the OCCC is based on reality, however elusive it can be to your searches.

Best of luck with your search.  Especially buying used.   Try posting this question on the PC facebook page, there is a good chance a 2100/2400 owner can chime in.

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General Discussion / Re: Voltage Drop - NOT Park Problem

« on: October 09, 2022, 04:20:03 pm »

Volkemon,

He also said voltage at "another" RV outlet dropped below 100."

I presumed he meant another outlet IN the RV rather than the pedestal.

Which is why I suggested he measure the voltage at the pedestal and all the way back to see where the drop occurred.

You lost me there cuz. 

I agree, the OP said "First noticed it when A/C turns on then stumbles. Voltage at another RV outlet dropped well below 100."

I took that to mean that the first indicator of trouble was the operation of the A/C, and a voltage drop was measured at an outlet in the RV, and found to be below 100V. I can see where one could interpret that as 'an outlet in another RV' though!! 

next line of " Problem persists when disconnected from shore power and generator running." would have me thinking its a problem independent of the shore power pedestal, and points before it in the delivery of power. (Or 'all the way back' as you state - is that what 'all the way back' means?) 

But with the kiln comment I was referring to your statement:

 " And now you are saying the kiln IN YOUR SHOP causes it?

You are on your own bud."


I misunderstood apparently. I thought your deliberate use of capital letters saying 'IN YOUR SHOP'  meant that you thought that the kiln was plugged in inside their shop. Not from the shop, and plugged into the RV as a high current draw test. My bad. 


But really... we are talking about a pretty simple electrical system. A voltmeter and suitable tools for access to testing points should have the problem isolated in little more time than it takes to get things apart to measure voltage.



Thru Traffic - 

We are dealing with a 30A service. One A/C unit on the coach, and that unit was operating.

The operation of this A/C was a primary indicator alerting you to the problem. Primarily by a 'stumble' after starting, but once it has tripped the 20A breaker.

A/C is now turned off.

Testing voltage at an outlet in the RV, while using appliances installed in the RV OR other appliances plugged into the RV as a current draw test, you found less than 100V.

With no appliances drawing power, the voltage measured at the outlet is very close to measured pedestal voltage.

Am I right so far?

If not, please correct me.   



 

If so.... BEGIN DIAGNOSTICS!!! 


TEST CONDITION: Shore power unplugged, generator supplying electricity. Transfer switch has closed, powering coach area from generator. Voltage initially being measured at an outlet in the RV.

Repeat the current draw test, and measure voltage at the outlet that was low before.

Does the outlet reads low voltage?

If no, proceed to  " SHORE POWER ON" below.

If yes, continue.


There is a circuit breaker that supplies the outlet you are measuring with electricity via a screw terminal, with a wire attached. Locate this breaker.  Does the low voltage reading appear at this screw terminal also when you repeat the current draw test?
 
If no, there is a problem between the breaker terminal and outlet. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, we must go closer to the source. Remove the cover on the breaker box, and measure the voltage on the bus that the breaker gets its power from. Repeat the current draw test.

Does the voltage on the bus drop?

If no, there is an internal fault in the breaker. Replace with a known good one. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, we still must keep 'going back' towards the source.

The transfer switch feeds the power to the bus in the breaker box. Repeat current draw test, and see if the voltage drop is observed at the output side of the transfer switch.

If no, its a fault between the transfer switch and the breaker box. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, then repeat the current draw test while measuring the voltage on the generator supply side of the transfer switch.

Does the voltage drop again?

If no, the fault lies in the transfer switch. It is getting good power, and not passing it through. Replace with a known good one, and repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, repeat the current draw test while measuring the voltage coming from the generator. If there are any intermediate junction boxes between the generator and the transfer switch, be sure to test them independently.

Is there a drop in voltage still observed?

If yes, that would indicate an internal generator fault.  Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If no, there is a fault in the connections between the generator and transfer switch. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

Continue on to the next section.



SHORE POWER ON

TEST CONDITIONS:  Generator off, Shore power on and supplying coach with power. Voltage being measured at an outlet in the RV.

Repeat the current draw test, and measure voltage at the outlet that was low before.

Does the outlet reads low voltage?

If no, you have no problems indicated. It works fine on Generator or shore power.

If yes, continue.


There is a circuit breaker that supplies the outlet you are measuring with electricity via a screw terminal, with a wire attached. Locate this breaker.  Does the voltage drop appear at this screw terminal also when you repeat the current draw test?
 
If no, there is a problem between the breaker terminal and outlet. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, we must go closer to the source. Remove the cover on the breaker box, and measure the voltage on the bus that the breaker gets its power from. Repeat the current draw test.

Does the voltage on the bus drop?

If no, there is an internal fault in the breaker. Replace with a known good one. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, we still must keep 'going back' towards the source.

The transfer switch feeds the power to the bus in the breaker box. Repeat current draw test, and see if the voltage drop is observed at the output side of the transfer switch.

If no, its a fault between the transfer switch and the breaker box. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, then repeat the current draw test while measuring the voltage on the shore power supply side of the transfer switch.

Does the voltage drop again?

If no, the fault lies in the transfer switch. It is getting good power, and not passing it through. Replace with a known good one, and repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, repeat the current draw test while measuring the voltage coming from the backside of the bulkhead shore power connector. If there are any intermediate junction boxes between the shore power bulkhead connector and the transfer switch, be sure to test them independently.

Is there a drop in voltage still observed?

If no, there is a fault in the connections between the shore power bulkhead connector and transfer switch. Find and repair. Repeat current draw test to verify repair.

If yes, you must test the connection between the shore power cord and the bulkhead connector. This can be difficult, if not impossible to do without a special testing adapter.

If you are this point, and HAVE A KNOWN GOOD SHORE POWER CORD AND PEDESTAL VOLTAGE, I would feel safe in replacing the shore power bulkhead connector. After doing all the testing above you know that all systems on board are working correctly. As always, Repeat current draw test to verify repair.


There. 'Thats all' you have to do for an orderly diagnostic procedure regarding this complaint. Many simple steps, with yes/no outcomes. NO guessing.

Or you can just start throwing parts at it. Many people use that method. 


This would be easier to read in flow chart format, but text is what I have available to me at this time. Sorry for the difficulty it may cause.








LOL..  next up: the presence of the slide as a contributing factor to many, if not all RV issues.   

11

General Discussion / Oil Gauge or idiot gauge??

« on: October 09, 2022, 10:48:07 am »

Recently had the oil pressure gauge drop to '0' while driving.    A 'DING' from the dash, the info center said 'Check Gauges' and a small red light lit up below the fuel gauge that said 'Check Gages'. Yes, they were spelled different. 


Stopped, checked things, rolled the window down and CAREFULLY drove home with ears wide open. Sending unit problem was the diagnosis.

Finally went and got a replacement sender unit. KInda small for a gauge output... in my opinion. 

Just to verify the wiring and gauge itself was OK, I 'shorted' the wire off the sending unit to the block. I was alone, so I took a video to review the test results. Its 15 seconds, check it out.

https://youtu.be/gKG1tlaPjJo

I was a little puzzled.... normally grounding the wire would put the gauge full scale.  This did not. You can see the jump to ~2/3 scale when wire was grounded.  Wire off, and the gauge drops to 0, 'ding' from dash, and red light comes on.

The oil gauge has ALWAYS read at that spot. Does now again.

That gauge is NOT what I thought it was. It will never show me 7/8 scale, 1/4 scale or any other reading but 0 and 2/3.  Its an idiots gauge. Works like an idiot light, but with more 'bells and whistles'.     

How idiotic.  It fooled me, however. I had been pleased that Ford gave me both a temperature gauge AND an oil pressure gauge.  Nope. They saved a few bucks and gave us an idiot gauge. Not that big a deal, I think I am 20% irritated that its not a 'real' gauge, and 75% irritated it fooled me this long.    (5% thinking to myself  'You spent HOW much time to post this?!?    )

Thought this was of passing interest. Not sure if this applies to the 2008 and later chassis, mine is a 2006.

12

General Discussion / Re: Voltage Drop - NOT Park Problem

« on: October 09, 2022, 10:22:36 am »

I would check voltage at the output of your transfer switch (ideally on both external and generator power).  If it holds relatively normal there when you apply a load, the problem is downstream--probably a high resistance connection somewhere in the main feed wire.  However if it drops there when you apply the load, check the inputs to the transfer switch;. if it drops there check back toward the actual inputs to the coach (at the generator and main cable connector).  Since you said you found no issues under load at the lot power, if you've got a drop at the transfer switch output--the problem has to be somewhere between the two.  The Klein Tools CL380 is a 400 amp meter, so you should be able to check (again at the transfer switch) for excessive current going somewhere with no actual load that you've applied.  That's probably not a high percentage problem, but not impossible.
Mike

This is about as basic a troubleshooting task there is for voltage. MikeH has it right.

 If this doesn't get you started on your own, get a proper diagnostic done before the problem turns ugly. Its not uncommon for the problems that cause voltage drop to cause heat. And/or arcs and sparks in places you cant readily see.

And if his 'first steps' doesn't show the problem, taking measurements 'downstream' to the breakers  would be the next steps. If you are not comfortable opening up the transfer switch, breaker box Etc. and probing for voltage perhaps outside help should be consulted SOON.  I would sorrow to read your RV burnt.

@Donc13 - They said ""My 15a ceramics kiln from my shop causes it.""  FROM. Not IN.      I imagine it was handy, and used as a good example of a high load for diagnostics.

13

General Discussion / Re: Shower door replacement 2005 pheonix 2100

« on: September 26, 2022, 04:06:21 pm »

We prefer using a 'regular' curtain now, with the 'Extend A Shower' rod.  Gives more room inside when using the shower, and more room on the commode when not.

https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3559.msg30638#msg30638

14

General Discussion / Re: New tires recommendations

« on: September 20, 2022, 11:21:22 pm »

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=Agilis+CrossClimate&partnum=275R6ACC&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes


Installing the more capable tire on lighter PCs, makes for a rougher ride, per Volkemon's report with his 2006 2350.

Well, after a few thousand miles on the road I am VERY happy with the tires. Still keep them at 75#, cant say it is a noticeably rough ride. And some of the roads I have been on lately, loaded, it has been tested.  The water shedding properties are AMAZING. Went through a few Florida monsoons now, and the control these tires give me is impressive.

Road noise seemed to lessen as I broke them in. Or I got used to it... But I drive with NO radio or other noisemaker going, so I am attuned to noises from the rig. Old habit from driving the VW Bus... it allows you to hear when parts fall off, making it easier to find them.    I feel that as an operator of a 'house' rolling down the road at 75MPH, often with my trailer, my attention is to the vehicle and the world around me. PLENTY of entertainment there to keep me occupied.  I dont want to be lost in a song when that solar panel on the rig ahead comes for me. That was some awesome video. Close call.

15

General Discussion / Re: replacing an absorption refrigerator with 12-volt

« on: September 20, 2022, 11:10:54 pm »

Hi Dave,

I thought the industry common 3-way fridge, one of the three was 100% 12V.  Is what you seek a lot more energy efficient running on 12V?

Ron

Check out the current draw running on 12V with an absorption frige - chart here - https://lowvoltagecooling.com/how-many-amps-does-a-3-way-fridge-draw-on-battery-power/

9.6 - 19.9 amps. 

""The newer 12-volt variable speed compressors use about 5 amps until they reach the desired temperature than drops down to about 1/2 -1 amp to maintain the temperature. ""  is pretty darn impressive.

BUT.. I am loving my fridge on propane running down the road and doing gig work. I know there are pros and cons for running propane on the road, but nowhere could I find it illegal to use while underway. Refueling? It should be OFF. 

Anytime we are going to be using propane for an extended period, I attach the refillable tank. Treat the onboard tank as my reserve. Works well for us. And EASY to get refills on the road almost anywhere.

Should our current fridge fail, I would be looking long and hard at a compressor fridge. Running down the road, the charging system would easily supply the needed current. Might be some significant weight savings also.