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Topics - JOHN

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Noticed the new 2019 PC "Upgraded" Standards includes "Double Insulation", heat, sound & noise abatement - Ford Cab.  When I ordered my 2016 E350 - 2351 that was a topic floating around that many requested PC add but I was told may void the "Warranty".  Looks like Ford/PC have resolved this.  I believe one owner back in 2013 ordered replacement insulation and did the task themselves (I am sure not necessarily an easy project).
I was wondering if anyone recently has taken on this project and do you have the product info. 

Tips and Tricks / 4 Way Water Fill Valve
« on: April 03, 2017, 10:46:36 am »
My 2016 2351 has the new 4 Way Water Distribution Panel and my fill valve was not properly doing its job as intended (hooked up to City position, water would continue into my PC and flow out of the overflow on the passenger side of PC - other camper's will quickly point out the leaking water flow). 
Calling Kermit, he graciously sent me a new assembly with encouragement to replace the old assembly by way of the bottom drawer of my closet on the driver's side, remove the panel behind the drawer and then disconnect the 5-connection of the old assembly, unscrew the assembly on the outside (8 screws) and then simply reverse the process installing the new assembly  :lol
Thankfully that process was not available to me unless I broke down my extended bed so that I could get the drawer out without taking the drawer apart.
The 4 Way Water Distribution Panel is made by Anderson Brass along with many other products and they have an UTube installation of their 200-RV-RK valve, which is done completely on the outside without removing anything other than the valve itself.  Go to Anderson Brass website, go down to "Products" down to "RV Products" and click to the right on "RV Water Service Panels" and you will see the panel that looks much like the new 4 Way Water Distribution Panel that PC used for my 2016.  At the bottom of that page is a "Repair Kit Video" (does not have verbal instruction) for replacing the valve.  Please pay particular attention to the 3 full 360 turns of the set screw.  You may believe that you have turned it enough and it will soon fall out and be lost, but I found in removing the old valve and replacing of the new, that without the set screw more than flush (3 full turns) with the inside of the assembly the old valve could not be removed and the new did not slide far enough in to complete installation.
Anderson Brass uses a distributor for the assembly, Champion Energy 972-228-4341 and you can order the assembly or my suggestion, just the valve (200-RV-RK) at Fitzilla.com.  The assembly is about $90 and the 200-RV-RK is about $30.
Of course if close to under warranty, I expect Kermit will send you a new assembly, much like I received, but consider just removing the 200-RV valve if armed with the suggested Repair Kit video.
Hopefully few will have this issue.     

Tips and Tricks / Ford E-350 Instrument Issues
« on: February 05, 2017, 10:43:25 am »
Enjoying my time with solo trips in my 2016 2351 PC.  Unfortunately I am having issues with my Ford instruments that began after about 2500 miles and occur from time to time after driving 30 miles, 80 miles 120 miles or so.
What happens is one of a number of things that none actual affects driving, speed of driving, steering or braking, so other than anxiety no apparent driving issue.  I may have the speedometer and RPM gauge go to zero while again speed is maintained, the various warning lights go on either all at same time, or various ones on and off, including other instrument gauges, temperature, check engine, brake, all the concerning ones, and then all goes back to normal.  This issue may re-occur and did yesterday for about 80 miles, quite a light show.
The first time this occurred I was traveling about 65 mph down I-35 South of Austin when speedometer and RPM gauges where at zero and a good portion if not all of the warning lights were on and I exited quickly to a Shell station.  Shutting off the engine I called Ford Roadside Assistance as I opened up the hood expecting to find disaster though I found no apparent problems (no smells, no overheating, all vessels full).  Ford Roadside Assistance technician had never heard of a similar report and suggested that I might go on to my campsite and then take it to a Ford Truck dealer since there was no apparent evidence of problems other than the instruments.
In that instance I had to use the white toggle switch to get power and once started all the instrument went back to normal for a while.
I did take it to a Ford Truck dealer who indicated that it could not find any problem with a diagnostic search of the computer or with test driving for about 50 miles.  During the next three of four short up to 100 miles trips, no other light shows occurred and all was happy with RV travel.
Yesterday traveling from an overnight stay at somewhat remote Colorado Bend State Park in Texas (about 116 from home), after traveling maybe 10 miles of the return trip home, included slow travel over rough road, I pulled over to close the water fill door and to do a walk around to see if anything else needed attended.  I had turned off the engine, but the ghost had returned and the chassis battery seemed to be dead and all warning lights on.  With the chassis battery down, though it had not been remotely a problem, I was able to toggle power after starting the generator, but from that point to home I had the issue of the instruments intermittently on and off all together or a few intermittently without any affect to the running and driving of my PC. 
I have a couple of options for other Ford Truck dealers check out my PC next week to see if they can find the problem and I will report any updates.
Anybody else had this problem?

Tips and Tricks / Extend a drawer
« on: January 06, 2017, 03:40:16 pm »
I needed to extend the bottom kitchen drawer to get to the hot water by-pass connections in winterizing my PC.  After spending a long, unsuccessful effort I called Earl at PC and he gave me the simple method just like what Ron Dittmer had posted that I missed "the black plastic levers on the exposed side of the glides.  When holding them up/down...it will come out with resistance.  If it doesn't work, flip the up/down and try again".
Thank you Earl and Ron, I still have much to learn/remember..
Happy New Year, John

General Discussion / New Phoenix Cruiser You Tube
« on: July 21, 2016, 09:43:04 am »
I just ran across a new "you tube" - Phoenix cruiser Motorhome Comparison & Critical Review.

Looks to be a comparison of the 2350 to another MH.

General Discussion / Exterior Paint
« on: July 15, 2016, 10:47:26 am »
I am picking out the exterior paint for my PC and I have three options:

1.  Full Body Paint
2.  Lower Body Paint
3.  Standard Paint (does not include 1 or 2).

I understand that I will need to maintain the exterior surface.  Many from the forum say to keep the surface relatively clean and wax twice a year. 

I would appreciate your comments (regardless of your preference of the above 3), if the exterior is properly maintained in each of the above 3 for a like use and storage, would the exterior (I guess appearance of the exterior) age differently?

Thanks - John

Polls / PC with TOAD or Others
« on: June 21, 2016, 09:11:20 am »
From the forum many of you have TOAD (sorry if this is in reference to more than a car/SUV) and some have bicycles/scooter/motorcyles that you carry/trailer behind the PC.

While looking for lighter options for transportation with my PC and how to move that option, I wondered if a new/newer poll might be helpful.

Thank you for your comments,


I am close to ordering a 2351 and would like your comments on whether you would add the Insulated Glass and/or remove the ladder/roof rack.

I have had a number of SUV's with roof racks and never utilized. 

I am adding Solar Panel, though they seem to be installed in front, gas line w/ quick disconnect, surge protector w/regulator, and upgrade 15000 BTU A/C.

Anyone ever add the Central Vacuum?

Thank you,


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