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Messages - dickreid1

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General Discussion / Re: Luggage rack dimensions
« on: April 07, 2020, 06:06:39 pm »
4 inches high
1 inch diameter

General Discussion / Luggage rack dimensions
« on: April 03, 2020, 12:04:55 pm »
What is the clearance from the roof to the bottom of the tubes along the sides?
What is the diameter of the tubes?


General Discussion / Re: New owner question: Heaters - dash switch
« on: March 12, 2020, 10:20:54 am »
Just a caution about the dash switch... do not use it to try to start the engine.  Phoenix warns that the gauge of wire cannot carry the intense current.  Fire hazard. 
My experience with using the dash switch to pump some charge into the starting battery has been poor.  I now carry a vary long jumper cable to start the engine directly from the coach batteries.

Our initial experience with a heat strip was that it is noisy and mucho cold air before the warm air starts.  Have not used it since. 
Instead we use a quiet electric heater almost exclusively. 
The gas heater is very strong so we rarely have used it.  I note that there were plastic bits in the ducts. On first use the gas and smoke produced forced to bail out for an hour or more until the plastic completely burned and the fumes dissipated.

General Discussion / Re: Electric gate valve problem
« on: August 28, 2018, 06:35:09 pm »
The overweight left rear problem of the 2910 was discovered by four-corner weighing 4 or 5 years ago. I have reported this to the forum numerous times since then.

As a result we travel with empty grey water and black water tanks and the barest amount of fresh water because that tank is under the bed at the rear left corner.   All relocatable weight is carried on the right and as far forward as possible.  And yes, we burned out a water pump in the process.

In spite of the precautions, the extra load on left rear duals may have taken its expensive toll in five-figure repairs and the purchase of seven more tires.


General Discussion / Electric gate valve problem
« on: August 27, 2018, 08:57:13 pm »
Another blowout on the overweight axel!  Same outside left dual as last year!  This time it took out all of the wires in the dump area and broke the macerator.

To dump I find it is not possible to move the gate valves by hand pressure.  Called Phoenix near noon for guidance.  Carol tried to get Bob but couldn’t.  Said would ask him to call but nothing today. 

Googled Barker Mfg. “Auto Drain” and found the manual for model 24140.  It looks like there is no work-around other than removing the device from the pull shaft. 

I am out of ideas.  Can anybody think of something else to try other than wait months until repairs are done?

General Discussion / Re: Deciding to not Tow with a 2100?
« on: May 21, 2018, 08:56:40 pm »
Do not tow.  Enjoy your new freedom while ou can.

We had one of early Sprinter RV’s, the Winnebago View.  When we traded it in our 2910D it had 95,000 miles touring all the U.S. and Canada.

We could go almost anyplace... even park in normal auto spots if there was grass at the end so we could back in.  We parked  on the street in front of laundromats and stores if the roadway was wide. We threaded thu some of the darnedest narrow places.  Could get into the small sites in the old national parks built in the 30’s by the CCC.  The places we did not go were marked for no RV travel, either as unwelcome (Walmart) or dangerous (Going to the Sun Road).

This freedom is what we miss the most with our larger RV; no more tight corners or u-turns;  having to search for fuel stations with easy access;  not allowed to enter or having to pay oversized RV fees at some  state parks.   We now tour less and take shorter trips due partly to the burden of the larger vehicle.  We only have 55,000 miles on our PC but used it now two years longer than our small RV.

And this year we started to tow.  What a hassle!  We now look for truck stops for easy access to the pumps. We are always afraid to get into places we can’t get out of.  We drive miles just to find a big enough place to turn around if we miss a turn.  Towing tends to be planting the RV somewhere and doing day trips or a run for supplies. Our touring days are just a memory now.

And yes, we learned to take everything with us if we plan to return to the same site.  Mostly the things missing have been “cleaned up” by a camp host.  Even our “Site Occupied” and “The Reid’s” signs are taken.  We do carry junk chairs to try to make a site look occupied when we go back to the Ranger Station to pay for the site.

General Discussion / Re: Weird water pump switch behavior
« on: April 04, 2018, 04:31:23 pm »
The relay is under the frig.  Ferrite chokes on each of the five wires made no improvement.  Oh well...

General Discussion / Re: Weird water pump switch behavior
« on: April 04, 2018, 12:00:50 pm »

 Excellent suggestion.  I will try to locate it and see if ferrite snap-on chokes will help.

General Discussion / 7Re: Weird water pump switch behavior
« on: April 03, 2018, 04:11:10 pm »
Aha!  Found it.

My amateur radio transmissions are feeding back somehow to turn on the switch control system.

General Discussion / Re: Weird water pump switch behavior
« on: April 03, 2018, 02:15:19 pm »
There are three switches for the water pump; kitchen, bath, dump station.  All three turn spontaneously on at the same time.  When a switch light is turned on the pump will activate only when the line pressure drops. 
However, because the coach is connected to external water pressure, the pump does not run when a faucet is turned on. Evidently the pump  is not part of the issue.
The switch connections in the sewer area have been checked and reseated... hopefully to assure good contact but no improvement seen.

General Discussion / Weird water pump switch behavior
« on: April 02, 2018, 04:10:18 pm »
The pump light has been coming on spontaneously since I dumped last time.

Any ideas on what to try or where to look?

General Discussion / Re: A Proposal - Gathering of the Clan
« on: March 26, 2018, 05:11:57 pm »
After our summer tours, we find that the high demand Florida campgrounds are available in October and early November... before the snowbirds arrive.  This is how we have camped in Bahia Honda and Curry Hamock and Key Largo in the Keys.  

We also camp with a group of 8 to 15 Casita trailers during the “season”.  They always seem to find a state campground that has room for the group.  The campout last month was really remote.  Look up Kissimmee Prairie State Park.  This month is very good as the snow birds are now beginning to leave.  Look up Ortona South Campground COE Park on the Caloosahatchee River by Moore Haven, FL.

It should be possible for a Phoenix group to find a Florida place before Thanksgiving or after Easter when the weather is still good and the snowbirds are at a minimum.

General Discussion / Re: Rock guard for towing
« on: March 10, 2018, 05:19:23 pm »
We use the RoadMaster screen that fills the space between car and coach.   The problem is that if the attachment at the hitch is forward as it should be, the support bar hits the ladder.  If you raise the ladder, it hits the bracket and intimately knocks off the bracket. 

If you attach the screen back as far as possible and raise the ladder, it misses the ladder bracket but opens a 4 or 5 inch gap that makes me nervous.  The coach was not built with mud flaps.

General Discussion / Re: Has there been any A/C improvements
« on: February 09, 2018, 02:01:18 pm »
Our 2910D is 50 amp with two A/C units. This is ok for most places. For extreme heat let me add some practical things to consider.

The major heat source has been the front window.  The other source is the metal door.

My minimalist solution has been two space blankets and magnets. The whole shebang stores in a sandwich bag.  We deploy the reflectorized material on the outside of the windshield and secure it with the magnets and/or the windshield “bra”.

Same for the door only on the inside.  Use more magnets because the trapped hot air really balloons the space blanket.

For storage here in the South Florida sun, my really serious solution is to cut Reflectix panels to fit all the windows.  Some of these panels now travel with us on trips.

General Discussion / Re: Batteries
« on: January 24, 2018, 02:32:25 pm »
Trickle charger.
Let me add one more story about using one to keep the engine battery charged when hooked up. 

Never had a problem with the previous coach during five years.  However, the Ford battery clamps are not made of lead, rather zinc coated copper.  By the second year the zinc wore through and exposed the copper.  Evidently the lead-to-copper difference in potential caused severe erosion of the lead posts enough so that the poor contact could not supply enough current to start the engine.  A replacement battery suffered the same severe lead erosion problem from bare copper in a matter of months.

The current solution is replacing the copper clamp with a conventional lead clamp.  Also when in storage, the engine battery is disconnected before connecting the Battery Minder trickle charger.

Charging switch.
Let me add that Kermit said that the internal wiring is not heavy enough to use for starting the engine.  Safety issue. After one starting problem where the “hold the switch” did not help, we now carry jumpers that reach from the coach batteries.

6 volt batteries.
The current battery tray nicely fits for 6 volt batteries.  The 2012 vintage tray that they put for me is slightly too small so I must continue to use 12 volt batteries.  Check before you buy.

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