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General Discussion / Re: Slide going cockeyed
« on: October 14, 2026, 08:58:43 am »
Did you ever get this resolved?
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General Discussion / Re: Replacement for Atwood 36681 Propane/CO Detector
« on: October 13, 2026, 12:28:25 pm »
Looking up the dimensions it appears to be a very close replacement and gets good reviews on Amazon. I did find a place online that still has them in stock, albiet in white.
https://petesrvmarine.com/products/atwood-36681-dual-lp-co-detector-polar-white
https://petesrvmarine.com/products/atwood-36681-dual-lp-co-detector-polar-white
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General Discussion / Re: 12 Volt fridge replacement
« on: October 09, 2026, 12:33:43 pm »
Funseekers...
I installed the Beechlane leveling system. Its an electronic level sensing device that has a phone app. When you install it you calibrate it by perfectly leveling your rig with the slide out, then run the slide in and set the beechlane "zero" to that position. Then when you get to your camp site you can turn on the system while you are parking to pick the most level spot. I then can reference the numbers it displays to show me where the low points are and set up leveling blocks to drive onto that get it really close. I then use manual stabilizer jacks wherever i need to get the beechlane to read as close to zero as i can. I can usually get it to between 0 and .25 inches easily. If i had 3 jacks i can make it perfect everytime but i only have 2 currently. You do have to go back and forth between the jacks to make it perfect. Once you are set you can then run the slide out and and check with a level if you like but it will be pretty much perfect . It is of course up to the individual to decide how perfect you wish to be. Its much easier than using just a level and repeated trips in and out for every adjustment you need to make. I like just having my phone with me to see the live results as i crank a jack. The stabilizer jacks im using are the bigfoot 5000 pound ones and to be honest you really dont have to do that part as just the blocks can get you close enough to be withing tolerance per the fridge manufacture. Im just one of those people who prefers to be as perfect as possible. The last camping trip i did the pad was level enough to put me at 1/4 inch out on 1 side with no leveling blocks so i didnt do any extra leveling at all.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrH-O4Kwh4Q
I installed the Beechlane leveling system. Its an electronic level sensing device that has a phone app. When you install it you calibrate it by perfectly leveling your rig with the slide out, then run the slide in and set the beechlane "zero" to that position. Then when you get to your camp site you can turn on the system while you are parking to pick the most level spot. I then can reference the numbers it displays to show me where the low points are and set up leveling blocks to drive onto that get it really close. I then use manual stabilizer jacks wherever i need to get the beechlane to read as close to zero as i can. I can usually get it to between 0 and .25 inches easily. If i had 3 jacks i can make it perfect everytime but i only have 2 currently. You do have to go back and forth between the jacks to make it perfect. Once you are set you can then run the slide out and and check with a level if you like but it will be pretty much perfect . It is of course up to the individual to decide how perfect you wish to be. Its much easier than using just a level and repeated trips in and out for every adjustment you need to make. I like just having my phone with me to see the live results as i crank a jack. The stabilizer jacks im using are the bigfoot 5000 pound ones and to be honest you really dont have to do that part as just the blocks can get you close enough to be withing tolerance per the fridge manufacture. Im just one of those people who prefers to be as perfect as possible. The last camping trip i did the pad was level enough to put me at 1/4 inch out on 1 side with no leveling blocks so i didnt do any extra leveling at all.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrH-O4Kwh4Q
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General Discussion / Hidden fuse
« on: October 09, 2026, 09:42:26 am »
As im winding down fixing all the things that were wrong with the PC from my purchase i have finally addressed the 1 light fixture over the bed. Its symptoms were the small dome light worked but the long main bulbs wouldn't so i knew i had my 12v power at least to the fixture. You have to remove the fixture to gain access to the back and on both ends there is a small access panel snapped into the fixture. The end opposite the switch contains the circuit board and the end with the switch contains an inline twist lock fuse holder. Mine had a blown 2 amp fuse in it. Replaced the fuse and now works fine. Just wanted to share if it helps anyone else. All my fixtures are now converted to LED.
This is specific to the older double fluorescent fixtures with the smaller nite light that are approximately 14 inches long.
This is specific to the older double fluorescent fixtures with the smaller nite light that are approximately 14 inches long.
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General Discussion / Re: 2019 2552 One Foot Extended and Liquid Springs For Sale
« on: October 08, 2026, 03:16:02 pm »
Hopefully i'll get to see it at a campground someday since im close by. Congrats on your quick sale.
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General Discussion / Skid rollers
« on: October 07, 2026, 11:24:13 am »
Yet another Ron Dittmer inspired improvement. I havent dragged on anything yet but if i ever do i hope this helps.
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General Discussion / Re: Sewer hose storage
« on: October 07, 2026, 11:20:06 am »
This is for Camperfans question. Pics to illustrate.
The valve handles are held in place by having them rotated perpendicular to the actuator with the handle resting inside the U shaped opening. There is then a pin with a circular ring attached that is supposed snap into the opening to prevent the valve handle from rotating out of the actuator. To manually dump you pull the pin, rotate the valve handle 90 degrees so that it parallel to the actuator, and then you can manually open or close the valve. Pics below show the normal state and when its disconnected for manual use. Also a couple pics of the 3 inch pipes and the sanicon turbo400s pump i installed since my original was missing when i bought my PC.
Several pics from a few different angles. The last pic is of a zip tie i have installed for my black tank valve because the proper ring pin is missing.
The valve handles are held in place by having them rotated perpendicular to the actuator with the handle resting inside the U shaped opening. There is then a pin with a circular ring attached that is supposed snap into the opening to prevent the valve handle from rotating out of the actuator. To manually dump you pull the pin, rotate the valve handle 90 degrees so that it parallel to the actuator, and then you can manually open or close the valve. Pics below show the normal state and when its disconnected for manual use. Also a couple pics of the 3 inch pipes and the sanicon turbo400s pump i installed since my original was missing when i bought my PC.
Several pics from a few different angles. The last pic is of a zip tie i have installed for my black tank valve because the proper ring pin is missing.
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General Discussion / Re: 12 Volt fridge replacement
« on: October 06, 2026, 11:10:26 am »
My fridge 2 cents...
So to be fair this is my 1st RV with an absorption fridge so i have no real reference other than what ive researched on youtube. Also im at least the 3rd owner so i have no idea of what the original owner added/deleted/improved upon until i discover it for myself. All that being said im quite surprised with the fridge performance. Before camping the first time i tried various settings on the fridge checking with thermometers to gauge what settings i need to run it at. Ive settled on 5 or 6 depending on the load as setting it any higher it will freeze stuff in the lower part. Even in the extreme heat we have been having in Tennessee the past month with 100 degree days for most of September i maintain 30 degrees in the freezer and about 40-42 in the refer section. I wasnt expecting those numbers in the heat but i did keep the inside AC temp on 68 the whole time we were camping over labor day weekend. I also keep it to within 1/4 inch of level in all directions as i understood thats optimal for good fridge performance. I havent even opened up the service door to clean it reall good yet but its on my to do list.
So to be fair this is my 1st RV with an absorption fridge so i have no real reference other than what ive researched on youtube. Also im at least the 3rd owner so i have no idea of what the original owner added/deleted/improved upon until i discover it for myself. All that being said im quite surprised with the fridge performance. Before camping the first time i tried various settings on the fridge checking with thermometers to gauge what settings i need to run it at. Ive settled on 5 or 6 depending on the load as setting it any higher it will freeze stuff in the lower part. Even in the extreme heat we have been having in Tennessee the past month with 100 degree days for most of September i maintain 30 degrees in the freezer and about 40-42 in the refer section. I wasnt expecting those numbers in the heat but i did keep the inside AC temp on 68 the whole time we were camping over labor day weekend. I also keep it to within 1/4 inch of level in all directions as i understood thats optimal for good fridge performance. I havent even opened up the service door to clean it reall good yet but its on my to do list.
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General Discussion / Re: Smart tv upgrade
« on: October 06, 2026, 10:57:24 am »
My PC has rear speakers in the bed area but they are connected to the in dash radio. Never really understood why since you really dont hear much from them when driving, unless it for someone resting in the bed while the other is driving. The home theater has its own rear speakers mounted near the fridge and the closet opposite the fridge.
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General Discussion / Re: Sewer hose storage
« on: October 05, 2026, 10:37:25 am »
Camperfan i would assume yours should be set up just like mine. The drains for the gray and black both feed into a 4 way 3inch pipe. 2 input and 2 output. The 2nd output is capped and thats where i will hook gravity dump hose when i ever need to do it. It points straight to the rear bumper. As far as the valves mine have a small ring that you can pull out and then rotate the valve handle clear of the actuator so you can open/close manually if your actuator has failed. I'll snap a few pics tonight an add them either here or a new post for you tomorrow.
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General Discussion / Re: Sewer hose storage
« on: September 28, 2026, 11:50:07 am »
Thanks Ron. Of course i did get the idea from your long list of improvements thread. We will primarily use the sanicon system and just gravity dump as a back up. Mainly wanted to share for the benefit of others who need a good way to store their stuff.
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General Discussion / Re: Sanicon remote switch.
« on: September 28, 2026, 11:46:26 am »
Yes....the wifes initial solution was to carry a broom stick and flip the switch from 6 ft away. This was unacceptable to me for several reasons...like having to replace the whacked switch and every other thing errantly whacked multiple times.
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General Discussion / Re: Sewer hose storage
« on: September 28, 2026, 09:08:19 am »
Had to break up pics into 2 posts. FYI the 3 in screws were necessary because apparently the is about 2 inches of styrofoam insulation between the interior wood floor and the outer bottom rubber skin. At least thats what it looked and felt like. Kept trying longer screws until i hit the wood.
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General Discussion / Sewer hose storage
« on: September 28, 2026, 09:04:26 am »
Finally got around to copying Ron Dittmer and others and installed a sewer hose storage tube. I think its pretty much is about the same location and everything. I made some custom brackets to attach to the frame out of unistrut and used cone nuts for 1/4-20 machine screws. I had to fabricate a custom bracket to support the end closest to the wall and installed it with 3in screws into the sub floor near the low point drains. Holds the tube and all the adapters nicely. The only complaint is the door latch on the end of the tube seems rather loose so i have places some clips in the hole meant for a lock to prevent accidental opening when driving.
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General Discussion / Sanicon remote switch.
« on: September 28, 2026, 08:51:37 am »
So i found this little nugget that seemed interesting so i decide to do an upgrade. The dump station at the campground close to my house does not have a way to attach your hose and leave it so you have to hold the nozzle the entire time. My wife and i tag team the dumping here since neither of us can really reach the pump switch and hold the nozzle in the proper place at the same time. I found this little remote 30amp switch on Amazon for $23 and also bought some waterproof quick disconnects to install it with. I made the quick disconnect fittings hook up in such a way that if the switch fails i can easily remove it from the circuit and reconnect the fittings to bypass it easily. All splices are done with solder splices. I attached a remote to the nozzle handle so now i can turn on the main pump switch, drag the hose to the dump spot, and then energize the pump from there and turn it off when its done. This is a completely unnecessary upgrade and merely for my convienence and the cool factor. You can find several variations of this switch that come with connectors already installed or no wires at all.