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General Discussion / Re: RV Travel: RV inspector recommends the best older motorhome brands

« on: June 23, 2025, 09:39:15 am »

I agree about the high quality of Phoenix Cruisers! At least this is very true of our 18 year old 2007 2350 which now has 105,000 miles on it. Our longest trouble-free trip was 18,000 miles. We have driven it over some of the roughest paved and dirt roads in North America (with even the occasional off-road excursion) and have never had any failures.

There have been ZERO problems with the chassis, drive train, or cabin structure (interior and exterior). Other than the macerator system (which was not working when we bought it in 2020) all the appliances, systems etc. are still working (knock on wood!). Even the slide-out has been trouble free (I've probably jinxed it now!). The Onan generator is the only thing that is quite unreliable (note: this is of course NOT built by PC but by Cummins) (we do not care because we NEVER use a generator anyway thus I have not spent the time to deal with its fueling problems). Cosmetically the exterior does look like hell because the clear coat failed years ago.

Importantly I will note that both prior owners were very mechanically adept and did an excellent job maintaining it which I also try my best to do. IMO owning a motorhome is NOT for those not knowledgeable, interested or able to put in a good amount of time and money to keep this truck/house-thing in good shape!       

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General Discussion / Re: Sanicon Turbo 700 Macerator

« on: May 03, 2025, 08:18:11 am »

Assuming it is a bigger deal than a blown fuse, etc., and you don't want to fix it....

We bought our 2007 2350 in 2020 and the Sanicon system wasn't working when we bought it (and anyway 2 years later the macerator fell off on the Denali Hwy. ), thus we have always just used the "good old-fashioned" stinky-slinky system to dump. As we were used to this anyway we find it is no big deal at all to dump using nothing but gravity. Maybe on your later model unit it is more complicated? Hopefully others who love the Sanicon system will chime in as to why it is superior so we will know what we have been missing. 

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General Discussion / Re: Anyone Still Have Their Original Coffee Maker That Mounts To The Galley Door?

« on: March 12, 2025, 12:09:02 pm »

I always wondered what that strange little counter was on that cabinet door! Thanks for posting this and solving the mystery.

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General Discussion / Re: Valve Stem Extensions

« on: December 17, 2024, 02:17:58 pm »

You all make me feel like I am really under-thinking things when it comes to tires, stems and TPMS!

For as long as we have owned our 2007 2350 (since 2020) we've driven 45K miles and have used a cheap-o made in China (aren't they all?) TPMS system that uses senders on the end of the valve stems, and cheap-o braided inner dually extensions, and I've never rotated any tires. Never had any issues with any of that. Got new front tires after 30K miles and rear tires after 40K miles due to tread wear. Now I'm worried that some disaster is lurking!   

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General Discussion / Re: Replace the water heater?

« on: November 08, 2024, 09:00:11 am »

I agree- amazing write up of the process! Sure makes me hope our water heater never dies (because such a complex process convinced me that if it does it is going to cost $$ to have it replaced by an RV shop! ).

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Polls / Re: Let's talk Oil

« on: August 19, 2024, 09:31:32 am »

2007 PC 2350.  104,000 miles through all types of North American terrain and weather.  I try to change the oil (and filter) every 5k miles and use 5w-20 full synthetic.  I don't believe the "our oil is the best" advertising hype so at home I use whatever brand happens to be on sale (if I'm on the road when a change is due then I just go to some "quikee-lube" type place and they use whatever they use). Nothing beyond routine maintenance has been done to the engine. Never have needed to add oil between changes.  These V10s are known to be durable truck engines.

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General Discussion / Re: Does our built-in propane tank need re-certification?

« on: June 17, 2024, 09:48:18 am »

I assume part of the problem is how the tank looks.  If it's all rusted up, that flags the filling station.  If it looks great, they just fill it.  The same generalization can be applied to those propane tanks used for grills.  They need to be painted and looking maintained or the fillers won't touch them.

Our tank actually looks pretty good for something with 17 years and 102,000 miles on it  ; just a few specks of chipped paint with rust in them on the side that gets hit with splash from the rear tires (because I'm too lazy to add the splash guard like you did  ).  Certainly nothing that would weaken or otherwise compromise the integrity of the tank. Portable tanks (DOT tanks), whether they look nice or not, ARE supposed to require re-certification every 12 years; wondering if anyone ever actually does that?

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General Discussion / Re: Does our built-in propane tank need re-certification?

« on: June 17, 2024, 09:41:52 am »

https://rvsafety.com/rveducation/propane/propane-cylinder-recertification#:~:text=What%20about%20propane%20tanks%20in,corrosion%2Frust%20or%20other%20damage.


No, ASME tanks do not need recertification.

 Added in edit:

Canadian laws do seem. TO REQUIRE Inspection, but not recertification.

Thanks.  That is what I had gathered.  Someone should educate the attendants at Loves and KOA....

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General Discussion / Does our built-in propane tank need re-certification?

« on: June 17, 2024, 07:01:46 am »

We own a 2007 Phoenix Cruiser 2350 and our last trip 3 different stations (two "Loves", one KOA) would not fill the built-in propane tank and stated "it needed to  be re-certified".  I checked online and sources seem to say that only portable DOT certified tanks and not built-in ASME tanks need to be recertified (every 10 years).  I'm assuming the PC's tank is an ASME tank.  Not sure how reliable those online sources are.  Does anyone here know the facts? TIA

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General Discussion / Re: Replace the water heater?

« on: May 29, 2024, 10:07:29 am »

Larry-  I have not replaced our water heater (yet) so can't help you out, but I expect to have to do so someday (we too drive some rough roads (e.g., Alaska, Yukon, and the worst roads: Massachusetts!)) so it would be great if you could post a follow-up after you do the job.  Also wondering exactly what water heater you found that is a perfect swap.  Thanks and good luck with the replacement! 

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General Discussion / Re: Fogging Window

« on: November 14, 2023, 03:01:53 pm »

2 reasons to fix than replace.


First, I can't find replacements the same size and frame color (mine are white)... And I've heard/read in other forums that the glass tint does not match older windows (mine are 2010, so I call them old).


Second, the fix approach puts less waste in land fills.

That makes sense.  Please post a follow-up and let us know how it turns out. 

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General Discussion / Re: Fogging Window

« on: November 14, 2023, 08:56:55 am »

Interesting discussion. None of our windows are fogged (does our 2007 even have double pane windows on it?), but I'm wondering if it wouldn't just be easier (and maybe even less expensive) to install new windows.  Like something from here: https://www.recpro.com/rv-windows/    Am I missing something about why it's better to have the old windows fixed?   

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General Discussion / Re: Question re: odd charger/inverter behavior..... What happened!?

« on: October 30, 2023, 08:57:50 am »

Probably, "most of the above"

Without actually looking at your PC, most of what you experienced is normal.  Yes, the Gen is typically started via the house batteries.  And yes, when the house batteries are low or disconnected, you need to start the Gen via the engine running.  There is a solenoid in the engine compartment that connects the alternator output to the house batteries only when the engine is running.  Thus, you can use the alternator/engine battery to start the Gen.  The Gen outputs 120v  alternating current which powers the converter/charger and starts to charge the house batteries.

Yes, there is a transfer switch that decides which 120v power source to use, by default, it uses shore power.  There's a time delay of about 20 seconds for it to switch from shore power to Gen power.  That's why when dry camping, there is a delay between the generator starting and actually getting power inside the coach.

As to blowing the 30 amp breaker... Which breaker?  The breaker inside the RV power panel or the breaker in the shore power pedestal?  Is the shore power pedestal part of your house wiring?  Meaning did you add a 30amp outlet to your home wiring?  If so, was it done professionally using 10 gauge wiring or was an existing 15 amp outlet simply refitted with a 30 amp breaker and plug?   That would be a big NO NO!  Typical 14 gauge wiring or even 12 gauge wiring commonly used in home wiring can not handle high amperage loads and can cause the breaker to open.

Anyway... Along with everything else, have your house batteries tested to insure they aren't worn out and need to be replaced.

Thanks Don.  The 30amp breaker that kept tripping is on the house.  It was wired by an electrician; it is the very same outlet that the PC has been plugged into whenever it is parked at home for the last 3 years and never before had any issues.  So I guess the question is, why now?  Is there some condition caused by the house batteries being so low that caused the breaker to constantly trip? Something else account for it?

My *guess* is the converter/charger was drawing too much power along with some other load like water heater (if it has an electric option), the refrigerator (in electric mode).  That is why I mentioned you should get your house batteries checked.

Now that the batteries are charged, what happens if you plug it into your house 30 amp outlet?

Water heater was not on. Nor was fridge or any other A/C appliance. Everything is normal now and it plugs into the same house outlet without throwing the house breaker.  Only thing I can figure is that the batteries were so low t hat they were drawing too much power from the inverter/charger? Is that possible?

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General Discussion / Re: Question re: odd charger/inverter behavior..... What happened!?

« on: October 30, 2023, 08:54:32 am »

You've got answers from the TripLite pros on here but I'd like to comment on a different aspect. What drained your batteries in the first place? They should not have drained sitting at a repair shop for two weeks unless the shop was running something off your batteries. I suggest checking that everything that can be turned off has been turned off (sound system, microwave, furnace, fans, heat strip, hot water, lights in bins and wardrobe, water pump, inverter, etc.) Repeat this process if you use that shop again and hit the kill switch on the house electric when you drop it off unless they are going to be working on something electric in the house. You may also want to call the service manager from the shop and let him know so they can avoid draining people's batteries in the future.

It was sitting for 3 weeks (at two different shops). Everything was turned off.  First shop rebuilt the front end, new brakes, shocks, etc., and likely did not use any D/C power. The second shop needed to use the house batteries as they installed a power awning and a new water pump (and maybe they used interior lights etc.?). Possibly between sitting at the first shop 2 1/2 weeks and then at the second, the house batteries got drained?

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General Discussion / Re: Question re: odd charger/inverter behavior..... What happened!?

« on: October 30, 2023, 08:50:31 am »

If your 30 AMP main source house breaker trips again, try turning off the Tripp-Lite using the switch on the inverter, then plug the RV into your house again.  See if you can rule out the TL as the culprit.  Do that also with your microwave, TVs, everything in your PC.  It will be easy to turn off all RV breakers, then turning them back on one at a time and learn from that.

All appliances and everything else was turned off. We have no microwave or tv.  The only thing we ever use 110V A/C for is phone chargers etc. (which do not obviously even need 110V A/C). We always run the fridge on gas or if we are plugged into 30amp 110V A/C at a campground.  Use the house A/C only when plugged into 30amp or more at a campground.