Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: detspcl on October 23, 2011, 02:19:51 pm
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We own a 2008, Model 2900 PC. The BLACK valve on my Sani Con unit would not engage. GREY side worked fine and I was able to use macerator to dump that side. I tried dumping the BLACK side manually but that valve appears stuck shut (dirt, dust no doubt). I pulled and check every fuse that I could find in unit to see if that might be preventing the BLACK switch from working but no blown fuses noted. I am stuck!!
Suggestions before we take the unit in to a dealer tomorrow? Is there a relay somewhere that has "flipped" or a fuse in an unusual location?
tks
chuck K.
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Call Kermit at the factory before you take it to a service center. It might be something simple that he can tell you how to fix. If you are covered under warranty, he will want to approve the fix before you have it done.
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This problem was talked about in post. Search under auto drain valve, you will found Jack's discription to disconnect the drive.
Good luck.
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This sounds exactly like the problem we are having with our 2006 2551. I ended crawling underneath and de-coupling the auto-drain box, which then allows it to be operated manually. Problem is - the valve is so far in from the back of the rig that I have to crawl under it to manually cycle the valve. Check the Barker Mfg. site for the Auto-Drain specs. Have fun - it's not too difficult to do once you get to the valve - I don't know where it is on a 2900.
I haven't figured out the ultimate fix yet - the grey one did the same thing briefly this weekend, but then cycled later when I tried it again. This makes me think it might be an electrical issue. I agree with Tom - call Kermit and see what he thinks. I haven't done that yet, as I am putting the PC away for the winter this week. I will deal with the valve issue more completely in the spring.
George
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Update: talked to tech at Barker. I also pulled the schematic from their site. Tech AND schematic states that you have to detach the unit from the value itself and THEN manually open the valve. I did that (Why do they make it so difficult to remove two stupid screws!!) and opened the valve manually. I know have an empty BLACK tank (good!!) but still have a valve that will not open electrically. Either the gear on the barker valve opener is busted OR I have an electrical problem. I am going to winterize my unit and leave the electrical/valve problem for another day.
BTW -- The valve on the GREY side works fine AND can be opened manually without removing the Barker housing.
Thanks for all the help!
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Lots of good advise.
My input......The problem is one of two thngs
1) The electrical valve controller is not working strong enough or not at all
2) The electrical valve controller is working properly, but cannot budge a stuck valve
If the controller "Is" working properly, it should move at least a tiny bit until it stops against the stuck valve hardware. If you see the controller move only a tiny bit, get under there and grab the valve handle too, and help it along.
If the controller is determined to be dead, check the wiring. Failure is likely due to corrosion on crimped wire connections. Clean all internections, best to solder them together and insulate them with shrink tubing.
If I determined my valve controller is not working, I would apply 12v directly to it, and ground directly from it, to bypass the electrical system just to see if it works properly all by itself. If it does not work, reverse polarity to get it to reverse direction. If still nothing happens, then replace it. You could test it easily once it is removed from the RV. Just touch the two wires across the chassis battery one way, then reverse the wires to get it to move in the opposite direction. If it is not moving right, buy a new one.