Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: wideglide on August 24, 2026, 11:01:19 am
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I've finally gotten around to doing the radio upgrade as planned since purchasing the PC. It went mostly smooth with a few obstacles but am very pleased with the results. My main goal was to have apple car play and android auto capabilities for in dash navigation purposes and phone bluetooth capabilities for hands free use. I went with the Pioneer DMH-W3000NEX as it met all of my requirements and then some. I used an adapter to plug into the factory harness as im not a fan of cutting original equipment harness if it can be avoided. Metra makes adapters for this and for the mounting hardware. Also while i was in there added a power outlet with 2 USB-A and 2 USB-C outputs that also displays system voltage and an aux input outlet to connect to the new stereo usb and aux inputs. The new radio has a feature that only allows certain functions to be used with the parking brake applied so i routed that input through a panel mounted switch to "fake" the parking brake signal. The 2 issues to be aware of are listed below along with links to the items purchased for the job.
1. Certain model year chassis do not have a 12v switched input landed in the OE stereo wiring harness. If your vehicle OE radio has 2 different harnesses plugged into the rear this may be an issue for you also. That 2nd connector uses data from the vehicle CanBus to ebable the radio. There is a connector ar the top of dash that goes to nothing, just held in place at the small pocket in the back, that has 12v switched in it. I just tapped into that for my key switch input and it works fine.
2. The faceplate adapter from Metra i used had 2 sets of mounting tabs. The rear set had to be cut off since mine used the front set. Also the supplied screws that were included to mount the plate into the dash were too short, basically the same as the factory screws that were also too short, so i had to source some longer screws.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DMH-W3000NEX-Multimedia-Compatible-Touchscreen/dp/B0D5DRCTRT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1Z8JGQI2FTTOX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.voZTliBSDtIxZbms9D3xYqocn5NrHhUYhQp-nTiwB53DWfWcEkPCH8gFWnasF9iEFd2qstkIzeNgn2FnwE2vT1VMeJ3YqZswraCDdzPtmIcDpA9HDqaGmS3Td7s-MsJVkD_4bS-QYz6SA-l--Hwyabep1AKtksDcZio0_LK4Gdex2ERX1bf0sd9gTavlkYwvEr5zwGPIrr5Oqsf-88CMjPuufZQetD-B1lVhuutWISs.m-P38-rt83fLvUxwc-HI2yiRa-p3e1cIHf5EdZOgw7w&dib_tag=se&keywords=dmh-w3000nex&qid=1787583248&sprefix=dmh-w300%2Caps%2C316&sr=8-3&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/RED-WOLF-Pre-Installed-Connectors-Aftermarket/dp/B0F2T3TPJ9/ref=sr_1_9?crid=3VE8MM7TW0OQ9&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.LLCuLPLp6pv06hhsX8T9JTz-1PoEylULOfpzwiFCKbdxwER6pY5l8ZpoRRqV7QwsbrchN9xICqX8wV3BVqp4sHf7W-gax8LfkJ7OgnRUWgDIOg0cRpS1VG86WfdXSQT30OIxZ9LbX79zP_DA6uDK8htIx-cAqz63mMoP-80DHWaIfKy6j-KGvLth-cg8qO9PKKuiOwxF3Ww5lqG4Dy4sKyN-lwhqgoRerLQ3RMvAndk.N9wb7f7t0_NUlLBHwF4knlsu0zroncc_1fddbthcKD0&dib_tag=se&keywords=2011+ford+e350+radio+wiring+harness&qid=1787583306&sprefix=2011+ford+e350+radio%2Caps%2C451&sr=8-9
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-95-5812-Installation-2004-up-Vehicles/dp/B000K4V4X8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=10G7917YGWFUT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.skO8Xc0nc6vTRbO5s0BAT5BUjt0HgkSDWUk3kYkApDnD_P1apc6SN8s1uL9g2_ZAooB4LrhDMmGqrKpuIoJsqf3ZSYj134d9OyLHSyxwez2fpVEkJmi-0Reh2tTuq9Ppx3OMTulevu92BThAv4E0KjOA588I0FVXAZ9P8n66rzmPOOR66hfIxtqXCWWg_iQ9qIT3UFrLILQnhFpdaXi9-vz_cU0eQReN_agfsB_A9K8.omnS_C70xlX3pOluc5agXMMXkjXyl9c-PYHq6q_IH8M&dib_tag=se&keywords=2011+ford+e350+radio+adapter+metra&qid=1787583386&sprefix=2011+ford+e350+radio+adapter+metra%2Caps%2C294&sr=8-5
https://www.amazon.com/URWOOW-USB-Flush-Mount-Motorcycle/dp/B07J4WZK1T/ref=sr_1_6?crid=QL64OKYF67LW&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jM1-OqQ5cxwauNWd1Rs0yp23hvkYM852U7MHRsUx9XVy6e7Tcnx_zyecSSrivPKMJphhnytaDug057YJgEbDv5_8HpGsXxbVsJZiscDE2myf6SXVPpl8CkoquwZxLwiV8QvEc1iHxw8qLDQDAT6VHHBuC91Jr3r6_owJ7Vjaj_aRwCK4VakJSCZMYEQIZ6DN7N01gAXg2LMqRHEWYwVesfeNL80tVAtxMyiHfH6_c1c.HuKEaqCqi0u8bJRTJs76MnBD2BBX1K_-lbjcbsFeTI0&dib_tag=se&keywords=radio%2Bauxiliary%2Busb%2Binput&qid=1787583492&sprefix=radio%2Bauxiliary%2Busb%2Binpu%2Caps%2C391&sr=8-6&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CTD84F3P/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_plhdr=t&aaxitk=f281de2be8b3b507c0971524f3c034bc&hsa_cr_id=0&qid=1787583534&sr=1-2-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&i=aps&aref=lmUcvKaQ6q&ref_=sbx_s_sparkle_sbtcd_asin_1_title&pd_rd_w=VnypI&content-id=amzn1.sym.8de9b3d5-f5c5-40e9-9b39-d65f08d6ea68%3Aamzn1.sym.8de9b3d5-f5c5-40e9-9b39-d65f08d6ea68&pf_rd_p=8de9b3d5-f5c5-40e9-9b39-d65f08d6ea68&pf_rd_r=171PFWG5MTGMFRY5Z0Z0&pd_rd_wg=Ctzmj&pd_rd_r=68e0f35e-eabd-452d-94a7-d03bbb210bb9&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/OELFFOW-KCD1-Inline-Rocker-2-Position/dp/B0BGKY9BN8/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1MIRXFTR80CWM&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.LWXapD74QZkuGO90uYIySDN8NntMAm77cY3T776riPMQE_NPuZajVR3rJYT-6YxTTlgh-4kiXvKpJURZidJxLIfIWGXBtHPhuq48knyG_W1TjnFay38m5QcyjTy5dIlgNenqNDcgHmzlXS7dUFkXLpbuL8XkCMocPRmjfOlMLweStNJzbeYUdfxRhJmnNKCOiQAQ2si7c61cyo87yTdjF5ThCkdZlyb9NIBVlCpuPzU.iAiEJvxwY6k8xMItddPuq8Lrm-vH3Qip5c0JrN1sV9A&dib_tag=se&keywords=surface%2Bmount%2Btoggle%2Bswitch%2Bbutton&qid=1787583632&sprefix=surface%2Bmount%2Btoggle%2Bswitch%2Bbutton%2Caps%2C376&sr=8-9&th=1
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I'm in a similar place, but with the slightly older chassis (2008). I greatly appreciate the links you provided, albeit they are likely to not fit my older PC and dash unit. I know others with the new Ford will appreciate them more!
I do have a few more generic questions.
1. The Red Wolf wiring adapter listing doesn't mention Ford e450 compatibility. How did you know they would work? I'm not finding a lot of options for wiring compatibility as well and am wondering if you asked an expert or the manufacturer, or?
2. What was the scale of the effort to remove the old unit? Did it pull out of the dash easily? I've been looking at mine and I think it should come out once I insert a tool on each side to release catch pins. And since I can remove the engine dog house I can see "most" of the contract points. But I don't want to be too optimistic.
3. Did you consider a 3 way switch so the unit could be dual powered? i.e. Ford-off-Coach. I want to get 12 volt from the Ford side while driving and from the PC side when parked. That way I don't drain the Ford battery while camping and I don't need an ignition key hanging all the time.
4. Where did you mount the GPS antenna? Since most the the dash is metal, I've considered mounting it in the fiberglass cap to ensure good reception.
Again, thanks for the details. I'm looking forward to hearing how it work in your next roar trip.
Larry
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I'm in a similar place, but with the slightly older chassis (2008). I greatly appreciate the links you provided, albeit they are likely to not fit my older PC and dash unit. I know others with the new Ford will appreciate them more!
I do have a few more generic questions.
1. The Red Wolf wiring adapter listing doesn't mention Ford e450 compatibility. How did you know they would work? I'm not finding a lot of options for wiring compatibility as well and am wondering if you asked an expert or the manufacturer, or?
Answer: I used to have a 2006 Ford truck and the OE radio was the exact same as the one that was in the PC so i knew it should be wired the same. Thats why i got that adapter and was surprised that the chassis harness has no 12v switched wire landed in it.
2. What was the scale of the effort to remove the old unit? Did it pull out of the dash easily? I've been looking at mine and I think it should come out once I insert a tool on each side to release catch pins. And since I can remove the engine dog house I can see "most" of the contract points. But I don't want to be too optimistic.
Answer: Since yours is the older style with the holes for a tool it may be different for your mounting of the new radio, at least a different mounting adapter possibly. If you have to remove the dash like i did its very easy to pop out of the retainer clips, but its very difficult to pull out far enough to access the radio area. The steering column is a very tight clearance issue. Some people unboly the column support and drop it down but i didnt. My unit has 4 screws that mount the radio to the frame that were hard to get to but there was just enough space to pull the dash forward to fanagle the old unit out and the new one in. If the entire dash needs removed there are several electrical connectors that must be unplugged and the vacuum lines for the AC controls. If you can remove yours via the release tool and work up through the bottom it may be easier for you. Also the main reason i went with that particular one is it came with the antenna adapter i needed so i ddnt have to buy that seperately.
3. Did you consider a 3 way switch so the unit could be dual powered? i.e. Ford-off-Coach. I want to get 12 volt from the Ford side while driving and from the PC side when parked. That way I don't drain the Ford battery while camping and I don't need an ignition key hanging all the time.
Answer. I did consider that but decided not to as i would probably never use it when not driving anyway. Also i would fear "others" may leave the switch on all the time and drain the battery, Key on power wouks best for my scenario.
4. Where did you mount the GPS antenna? Since most the the dash is metal, I've considered mounting it in the fiberglass cap to ensure good reception.
Answer: In my dash there is a large space just above the radio that is open to the plastic dash cover so i just mounter the antenna there. Its a peel and stick about 2 in square. I havent taken it out yet to see how accurate the navigation is.
Again, thanks for the details. I'm looking forward to hearing how it work in your next roar trip.
Larry
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LRUCH....
Are you sure you are on a 2008 chassis? IN your profile is shows a 2010. 2008 is a cut off year for chassis builds so it matters on what parts you would source for wiring and dash mount kits. Im happy to assist in sorting out what you need but want to make sure what im looking for. If you can attach a pic of your dash that should tell me what i need to know.
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LOL... Quite sure it's a 2008 chassis. My unit was built during the RV recession. The chassis sat "homeless" for a couple years before the original owners ordered it in 2010. The 2008 chassis was dusted off, run thru the Phoenix assembly line and completed Fall of 2010.
So my title says 2008 since it is a Ford VIN number, but everything above and behind the cab is 2 years newer. My insurance company, like Phoenix USA in Elkhart, sees it as a 2010.
As for the questions, I'm planning on buying a full android with 10 inch touch screen. I want a single 12 volt device to drive all audio, visual, navigation, Android Auto, in the RV. It's easier on the power usage than 120v equipment, and built sturdier than home electronics, so it can handle the road abuse. I also plan to install an infrared thermal camera volt in the front grill for safer night driving, which makes the large screen even more vital. I feel that as long as there is a remote, my step can be in the dash just as easy as in an upper cabinet. I was hoping you found that e450 radio connections were the same as F450,,, or something simple like that. Many electronics specs are quick to announce compatibility with F series trucks,,, but never mention E series.
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LOL... Quite sure it's a 2008 chassis. My unit was built during the RV recession. The chassis sat "homeless" for a couple years before the original owners ordered it in 2010. The 2008 chassis was dusted off, run thru the Phoenix assembly line and completed Fall of 2010.
So my title says 2008 since it is a Ford VIN number, but everything above and behind the cab is 2 years newer. My insurance company, like Phoenix USA in Elkhart, sees it as a 2010.
The great recession of 2008/2009 had many motorhome manufacturers going bankrupt. The owner of Phoenix USA at the time, Kermit Fisher, attended liquidation auctions, buying Ford and Sprinter chassis at auction for way less than typical, and dropped the price of his brand new PCs by that much to keep sales alive. Sprinter 2350s and 2400s were offered at the price of an E350 equivalent. E350s & E450s were lower yet. Kermit's creativity carried the company through one of the worst RV down-turns in history.
So today, it is common to find 2010 PCs built on a 2008 E350, E450, or Sprinter chassis. The chassis warranty commenced on the day the rig was purchased by the consumer (us) so that was not compromised.
There are a lot of 2010 2350s out there on a 2008 Sprinter chassis.
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Ok the 2008/2010 question makes perfect sense now. Great forethought on PC's part.
So here is what i believe i have found out for you.
The e350 and e450 chassis should be the same dash layout. Im going to list items from the Metra Electronics website below for harness and dash mounting kits. I have used their products many times over the years and although sometimes you do have to do a little extra trimming here and there on the mount kits, everything you should need is normally there. From what i can glean from watching several youtube vids is Ford made an atypical dash size radio that isn't quite a full double DIN so you will have to do a little bit of trimming inside your factory dash around the edges. It appears that there is a narrow plastic lip that needs about 1/8-3/16 inch shaved out all around. I would use an oscillating saw if you have one. I'll include a link below to a youtube vid showing this. In that vid you will notice that he uses the brake bypass kit for ability to use certain video features tht are supposed to only be allowed when the parking brake is engaged. This input is the "green" wire on most new radio systems. I opted for a cheaper alternative and just installed a rocker switch to simulate park brake signal when i need it. The green wire needs a ground input to enable park features. Also many folks just use a metal coathanger as a removal tool for your factory radio if it has the special holes to release.
Radio mount kit:
https://www.metraonline.com/product/95-5817
Wiring harness:
https://www.metraonline.com/product/70-1771
youtube vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBXv5oD2rtU