Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: fandj on May 02, 2025, 10:47:43 am
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I dumped my waste tanks a couple days ago and the macerator worked. Trying to rinse and flipped the macerator switch it would not start and heard no noise. It has been a good unit for the past 9 years.
I am just starting to think of options. I have found Phoenix has used at least thee different models over the years. One of my options is to leave the macerator pump in place and just dump with the supplied stinky/slinky system. I am curious how many have used this bypass option long term and if there are reasons other than the convenience improvements that the macerator has?
It looks like a pump replacement might be easier though still not easy to replace the complete Sump box and pump assembly. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
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I dumped my waste tanks a couple days ago and the macerator worked. Trying to rinse and flipped the macerator switch it would not start and heard no noise. It has been a good unit for the past 9 years.
I am just starting to think of options. I have found Phoenix has used at least thee different models over the years. One of my options is to leave the macerator pump in place and just dump with the supplied stinky/slinky system. I am curious how many have used this bypass option long term and if there are reasons other than the convenience improvements that the macerator has?
It looks like a pump replacement might be easier though still not easy to replace the complete Sump box and pump assembly. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
Have you checked the wiring, fuse and power?
It could be as simple as a blown fuse.
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Assuming it is a bigger deal than a blown fuse, etc., and you don't want to fix it....
We bought our 2007 2350 in 2020 and the Sanicon system wasn't working when we bought it (and anyway 2 years later the macerator fell off on the Denali Hwy. :lol), thus we have always just used the "good old-fashioned" stinky-slinky system to dump. As we were used to this anyway we find it is no big deal at all to dump using nothing but gravity. Maybe on your later model unit it is more complicated? Hopefully others who love the Sanicon system will chime in as to why it is superior so we will know what we have been missing. :)
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I searched the main Phoenix fuse panel and couldn’t find any fuses designated for the macerator. I searched the macerator manufacturers wiring diagram and it indeed shows a 30 amp fuse. Any suggestions where to find the macerator fuse?
I would prefer to continue using the macerator option but if it is indeed is a failed macerator motor then replacement looks expensive and difficult to physically replace hence exploring the stinky/slinky option.
Thanks in advance for any info or recommendations.
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PC uses a circuit breaker not a fuse. Remember my old schematic
https://keelhauler.org/RV/2552ElectricalSystem.jpg (https://keelhauler.org/RV/2552ElectricalSystem.jpg)
It shows 3 circuit breakers, one is for the Macerator.
Can you turn the macerator in both directions manually?
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Thanks for the suggestions. I checked the breakers on your schematic. In my case they were under the passenger side bed. I checked them by turning off battery power and disconnected shore power. I checked all 5 breakers to verify 0 ohms across each breaker’s two terminals.
I suspect my macerator is different from yours. Both black and grey tanks dump into a sealed box. The macerator is a submersible pump inside the sealed box thus without breaking the seal I can’t determine if the pump is free.
Photos of breakers and underneath the macerator sump shown below.
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Photos of breakers and underneath macerator sump.
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The macerator runs only off the coach batteries, so make sure the 12v disconnect isn't "off".
If you haven't, check for 12v at the macerator itself
Yes, the macerator is essentially "glued" in place and will require replumbing... not an easy or pleasant project
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I was researching the macerator failure and ran across a video with the same Thetford unit I have. He attributed the problem being since it was a brush type motor and sometimes where it stopped determined whether it started or not. Having had hand drills in the past after several years they would not start without manually rotating the chuck. After that it was roulette whether it would start the next time or not. This is not a practical procedure for the macerator.
My unit is 9 years old and has had moderately heavy use. I am curious as to how common this type of failure occurs. Would this type failure led Phoenix into changing to what they currently install?
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My macerator is working just fine, but as I had a slinky tube, I bought an enclosure for it and secured it to the bottom of the frame just in front of the back drawer. It’s big enough to accommodate a rhino with the fitting.
R ecPro RV Extendable Waste Hose Carrier Super Slider Storage Tube (33" - Extends to 60"
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My factory supplied stinky-slinky hose is stored in my spare tire enclosure thus not very convenient. I only used this hose once when I developed a hole in the macerator hose which resulted from improper factory installation. The bypass worked ok but not quite as convenient and quick as the macerator option.
I am coming to the conclusion that I will install a storage tube underneath the Phoenix and just use the old fashion gravity dump method. I am not up to changing the sump type Sanicon system so I would have to find a reliable RV mechanic to change it which I am not so confident of finding that person in my area.
Thanks everyone for your comments and suggestions.
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Just sharing this. For our 2007 2350, I bought a generic storage tube from Camping World and mounted it here for a back-up system in-case we have a Sanican failure during a trip. A Rhino fits perfect. It's not ideal because of access on the other side, but it serves the purpose. It has never given me trouble of any kind. It's just there for insurance.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1890/44096697452_2ebe8c8d8a_z.jpg)
Here you can see that the tube is a bit higher than the fuel tank, right up against the main chassis frame and pressed up against the underside of a waste tank.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1881/44144948651_e9763f4331_z.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1866/44144952411_bf9cec9ff3_z.jpg)
The other side mounts directly to existing holes in the chassis frame.
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That is where I put mine as well. I had a piece of steel bedframe that I used. I welded brackets on each end and bolted it to the frame and attach the tube to that. Works fine and I was able to support the tube in the center with a heavy duty tie strap.
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I love my macerator on my 2013 3100. BUT I have had to fix several issues over the years.
1. Macerator stopped working and at first I thought it was the fuse. It wasn't. After testing the current I found the issue was that electrical connectors at the switch had corroded. These connectors are completely exposed to the rear tire water spray. I replaced the connectors and covered them with liquid tape two years ago. Everything worked great after that.
2. Replaced macerator because it was running slowly. After replacing old macerator I inspected it and found hair was inhibiting bladed to run at full speed. I cleaned it and tested it. The old macerator ran perfect so now I have a spare.
3. My black tank electric valve stopped opening. I opened it manually to drain the black water and replaced the electic valve.
4. I found that the electric tawnk valves need an occational adjustment to have them open completely.
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Mine intermediately will not start; a tap on the housing will get it started. I thought of the circuit breaker issue and checked that power was supplied to the switch. It is easy to get at the contacts with a meter to check. My switch was looking corroded so I replaced it to take that out of the equation.
Not wanting to find it completely dead on a trip, I researched replacing the housing and pump. At first I was dismayed at the thought of cutting and replacing all the pipes connections to the tank. With further digging on this forum I found a pertinent write up that offers an easier route.
It involves removing the housing by separating the valves at their blades by removing the bolts that hold the valve halves together. Then drop the tank and replace the pump inside your existing tank. Put your old housing with new pump back and your done.