Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: Gixxerkid3 on April 12, 2022, 06:57:08 pm
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Hi all. I want to do some updating /repair of the exterior silicone at random places of the coach . Any thoughts as to which type of silicone to use for best results. I could just use a generic clear exterior silicone, but am wondering what others are using. Hopefully the attached photo is clear but those are some of the areas I need to repair.
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I have used Geocel clear. This is an Amazon link https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-GC28100-Flex-Flexible-Clear/dp/B001FC98X2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2D8J2OZ1T8GJ0&keywords=geocel+proflex+rv+sealant&qid=1649805417&sprefix=geoce%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-3 (https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-GC28100-Flex-Flexible-Clear/dp/B001FC98X2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2D8J2OZ1T8GJ0&keywords=geocel+proflex+rv+sealant&qid=1649805417&sprefix=geoce%2Caps%2C103&sr=8-3)
Silicone though popular can be very difficult to completely remove when replacement is needed. All the sealants I am aware do not adhere well to Silicone including Silicone thus are prone to early failure.
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I use the Pro Flex clear also.
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I thought it might be a bit too stiff. Used this particular one to patch a “star” shaped crack in my roof.Thanks for the info.
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That clear pro-flex product is for vertical seams and joints. Use self-leveling Dicor on the roof.
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I use that too. Are you saying that the products noted above are for vertical seams and not for what I am looking for? My pic and the Amazon link above are the same part number. Thanks
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I used ProFlex clear for sealing the exact same location you are looking at. It worked great, and looks good. I used some painters tape as well so I would have nice clean lines. I like it much better than silicone, seems to last longer.
Very Respectfully
Lance
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I use that too. Are you saying that the products noted above are for vertical seams and not for what I am looking for? My pic and the Amazon link above are the same part number. Thanks
Use Geocell ProFlex on the sides. The Dicor self leveling stuff is less viscous and will run or sag. I assumed that’s what you meant about ProFlex being too stiff when you did the roof repair.
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Lapseal on the roof only, and pro flex everyplace else. With some tape, some patience, and a wet soapy finger the pro flex can be made to look better than factory.
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Yes, Dicor lap on the top for sure. I bought a tube of geocel for the sides. Getting started today. Thank goodness there are only a few spots.
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I can suggest from experience that you check every single joint on that rig. Even the ones that are hidden behind the awning and the gutter spouts and places like that. Ask me how I know
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Ask the factory what they use.
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Good call Ron. I think somewhere in the back of my head I was thinking that; however, it did not click until you mentioned. I guess I am just not used to asking the “Factory” such questions.
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Good call Ron. I think somewhere in the back of my head I was thinking that; however, it did not click until you mentioned. I guess I am just not used to asking the “Factory” such questions.
2o2
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I might think twice about taking the factory suggestion on this one.
On my 2020 2552 the clear silicone (?) that they used on my seams has dark spots in it that don't wash off.
Looks like mold to me.
It is not terrible yet so I have not tried to do anything about it.
The seams are all intact just looking funky.
I'll try the Geocell when the time comes.
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So I went with the pro flex crystal clear. Looks weird being so clear. I wonder if it will yellow. I need to get some touch up paint as well. I had the paint info from Dave at PC, but you think I can find the info? LOLOLOL
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I might think twice about taking the factory suggestion on this one.
On my 2020 2552 the clear silicone (?) that they used on my seams has dark spots in it that don't wash off.
Looks like mold to me.
It is not terrible yet so I have not tried to do anything about it.
The seams are all intact just looking funky.
I'll try the Geocell when the time comes.
I would rather go for "consistency" since they will be touching up areas instead of re-caulking the entire rig. Who knows if an alternative caulk is the better choice?
Two years with mold spotting......do you live in an extremely high humid environment? That isn't right.
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Hi Ron: We live just south of Boston MA but well inland. I started noticing it early last season.
Will take a closer look and maybe take a pic or two.
I don't think our climate is that unusual. Maybe being under a cover?
It isn't bad enough yet to really concern me but I was surprised to see it.
Udate: Just decided to go take a look. In the pic you can see the left end is where I just tried to wash it off with some 409.
A lot of it was on the surface but I think some is inside or in pores. Will try some bleach when I uncover and dewinterize in a couple of weeks.
Regards.
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I don't think our climate is that unusual. Maybe being under a cover?
Do you protect your PC with an RV cover? If so, that may explain your mold problem.
We also own THIS SATURN SKY (https://www.flickr.com/photos/37432012@N08/albums/72157717335533052) but not enough garage space to accommodate it off-season. I had wrestled with how to protect it outside over the winter. Of coarse a well fitting car cover was one option. In the Sky forum, the general consensus was "Do Not Cover" the car, rather park it under a car port to allow the air to flow. Otherwise mold and rodent damage could become a problem.
In our particular situation, for $20 I came up with this makeshift car port under our deck that erects and comes down quickly. This method of protection has it's own issues, primarily little birds seek shelter all winter long by sitting in the wheels and on the brake calipers, and they poop a lot. At least they stay off the convertible top and paint work. I do protect everything internal and under-hood with piles of moth balls which has worked very well in keeping rodents out.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51698970452_e6d0fb32d9_z.jpg)
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I hear that’s a sporty car. What kind of MPG do you get with that?
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I hear that’s a sporty car. What kind of MPG do you get with that?
Not as good by today's standards. We see roughly 30 mpg, but those are joy-riding miles out in the country under ideal conditions. Our Sky has the non-turbo'd 2.4L with 5-speed stick shift drivetrain. We enjoy our day trips in our Sky, top-down. It's our 4 wheel motorcycle with good fowl weather protection.
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Oh ok. A friend of mine had one and was always complaining about the poor mpg’s. Must have been the turbo.
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Oh ok. A friend of mine had one and was always complaining about the poor mpg’s. Must have been the turbo.
It's all about how hard you are on the car. Cruise along, enjoy the fresh air, the scenery, the experience, it's all good then.
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I contacted PC a few years ago on what to use. They told me they use Dicor. 502 self leveling for the roof and the cap and lap non sagging sealants on the rest. I hate Dicor products. Nothing but a dirt magnet. All my sealant is damn near black. On the roof where it can’t be seen is no big deal but the rest makes your rig look like a pile of. So once again I need to remove old sealant and start over. Hopefully Geocel is a better product.
Anyone know of an easier way to pull the old caulking. Razor etc is risky to doing damage. Would mineral spirits or goo gone for caulking work?
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Back to the OP's mold question.
I have never experienced anything like that and I wonder out loud a question. Why wouldn't you just take a 25% or so solution of bleach and carefully apply small amounts with an artist brush, leave it there for thirty minutes or so and then flush it with flesh water? Is it concern that the bleach would hurt the finish? If you flushed it out after a short period of time then used microfiber cloth or soft brush to remove the mold I wonder if that might work.
I would not be afraid to try that in a small and hopefully inconspicuous area to see what happens.
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I would not be afraid to try that in a small and hopefully inconspicuous area to see what happens.
That is an excellent suggestion to experiment trying.
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I contacted PC a few years ago on what to use. They told me they use Dicor. 502 self leveling for the roof and the cap and lap non sagging sealants on the rest. I hate Dicor products. Nothing but a dirt magnet. All my sealant is damn near black. On the roof where it can’t be seen is no big deal but the rest makes your rig look like a pile of. So once again I need to remove old sealant and start over. Hopefully Geocel is a better product.
Anyone know of an easier way to pull the old caulking. Razor etc is risky to doing damage. Would mineral spirits or goo gone for caulking work?
Get 100 because they break very easily.
https://www.amazon.com/Scrapers-Contoured-Scraping-Windshields-Application/dp/B093GWGL56/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=2JF1Z9MP20TQR&keywords=plastic%2Brazor%2Bblade%2Bscraper&qid=1655482472&sprefix=plastic%2Brazor%2Bblad%2Caps%2C249&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A20JXY3GJS1S1N&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMERTSVlBT0szN1U0JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTcwNTI1Qk5PQlpKVjZNOEo2JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwOTMxNzExNEVaUFYwTzYyRFdNJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
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Tried 100% bleach on an area. Applied with a Qtip. Didn't work.
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Cal, Thanks for the tip. Regular razor is too problematic in digging in or cutting parts. If these are not as sharp they might work
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I used those plastic razor blades to remove what once was clear film off a different vehicle. Not sure you need a lubricant to scrape off slippery silicone, but I did remove the crusty material. I used kerosene as my lubricant.
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I have to seal a leak at the fitting between two pipes in my dump system plumbing. Do you guys recommend the Geocel Pro RV stuff, instead of silicone, for something like this?
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Typically that would be ABS cement.
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Typically that would be ABS cement.
Thanks Don! I just read a technique that said you can heat the joint and it would "suck" ABS cement into the joint, much like sweating copper pipe. I don't think I could separate the joint and reglue, so I'm going to try this and for good measure, add a coat of JB Weld PlasticWeld Putty. Sorry for hijacking the OP's thread!
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Don't know about the heat, but ABS cement is thick enough that you should be able to just brush it on. And correct, you can't separate them once glued.
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I have to seal a leak at the fitting between two pipes in my dump system plumbing. Do you guys recommend the Geocel Pro RV stuff, instead of silicone, for something like this?
This
https://www.plast-aid.com/pages/plast-aid-101
Mix and wait until it starts becoming not too drippy, then apply all around the joint using the popsicle stick or cut down q-tip sticks. Keep reapplying until it builds up a thick bead that covers the entire joint, then use your finger to level and smooth it out. It doesn’t stick to skin.
The advantage of plast-aid over abs cement or pvc hot glue is that it can be applied to an assembled joint. JB Weld is just epoxy.