Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: Gixxerkid3 on December 27, 2021, 11:30:12 am
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So the Seattle area is really cold (for Washington) at the moment with snow. My 2552 is sitting in the driveway winterized but I am not comfortable with it. I blew out and drained all the lines and the pink RV antifreeze is slushy in the toilet. I am concerned that there may be some residual water sitting in the lines that may have been missed which does not have antifreeze in them. Is there any issue with leaving a small space heater running in the coach just to keep the chill off? Maybe even one of those portable oil radiant heat ones? Not sure how effective that type would be. Suggestions?
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Put some antifreeze in each drain so there is some in the p-traps including the shower, run enough so that there is also some in your gray tank. You should also make sure that some gets to the macerator so use enough till you see pink coming out.
Since it appears you can plug it in and use a space heater, and I recommend a oil type radiator, you can also turn on the holding tank heaters if you have them.
Also open the cabinet doors at the sinks won't hurt. And a little bit of water won't hurt anything as long as there's room for it to expand as is the case in the water heater where it's impossible to get all the water out.
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Looks like I’m on the right path, everything you mentioned has been done with regard to the P traps doors open, anti-freeze through the macerator etc. Looks like the only thing I need to do is buy an oil heater and yes I do have tank heaters. Thank you for your input, it is very much appreciated
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The radiator type heater is a nice thing to have and take long if you are going to be cold weather camping where you can plug in. But you don't really need it with all that you've done so far.
I'm in Colorado have always only blown out my RVs and have never had a problem with temperatures going below zero.
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Even better. Thanks
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The radiator type heater is a nice thing to have and take long if you are going to be cold weather camping where you can plug in. But you don't really need it with all that you've done so far.
I'm in Colorado have always only blown out my RVs and have never had a problem with temperatures going below zero.
Totally agree, had an RV, (truck camper then 3 different motorhome over 24 years) used the RV antifreeze in the water lines exactly once... Never again. It literally takes HOURS of flushing to get it out and it tastes HORRIBLE.
Blowout with air and never had an issue. You do need RV Antifreeze in the sink and shower traps and need to fully drain sewer outlet. I also put about 1/2 gallon rv antifreeze in each waste tank. Obviously (I hope) I drain the hot water heater via the drain plug in the access panel.
Absolutely NO on any heater that uses a flame or glowing red electric grid (like a toaster) . Ceramic or oil filled electric are fine.
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I think I am ok. Just wanted to be sure. Lines blown out, water heater empty and even siphoned the bit that did not drain out. All doors / cabinets open and pink stuff in the P-traps and a bunch in the waste tanks and ran the macerator. There is bit of water in the holding tank that did not drain out when I drained it. Seems to be ok. Thanks again for Al the input.
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Hi Steve,
I agree in that the fresh water and hot water tanks are difficult to drain out completely. It sounds like you did your best and that is that.
If our PC was stored outside in sub-freezing temperatures, I too would be tempted to keep it warm inside....to a point, not only for freeze-protection, but also to remove dampness. What comes to mind is some of what you had already mentioned.
- Set the Ford cab HVAC to "recirculate" to prevent outside air from entering through the dash vents.
- Cover the windshield with a well fitting thermal bubble/foil sunshade.
- Come up with something similar for the van door windows.
- Drape something like a warm heavy sleeping bag unzipped wide open, across the two front seats and tuck it in and around to eliminate as much cold cab air from getting into the house, keeping in-mind that cold air is heavy.
- Seal all roof vents with Styrofoam blocks.
- Open all cabinet doors & drawers, and also the bathroom & shower doors.
- Draw all shades as they offer some limited insulation.
- Place a tiny ceramic electric heater inside on the floor, placed away from anything that might fall on it like the sleeping bag or Styrofoam. Set it on something non-flammable, like a section of plywood with sheet metal laying on top.
- Set the heater on the lowest setting as possible.
- Place a thermometer inside to monitor the inside temperature to help determine the right heat setting.
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Thanks for the follow up Ron. I’ll do what I can with your suggestions.
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If you've drained the water, there is no reason to keep the inside warm. There are millions of RVs out there that are winterized and left to sit through the winter without heat or blankets, foam and insulating wraps. Ours spent three winters covered in snow with no ill effect. We drained ours, put in pink stuff (all drains and macerator - water heater bypassed), took out freezables, put peppermint oil sachets all over to deter mice, killed the power at the switch and walked away. We'd visit every month to exercise the generator.
Take away the water and you have a really big car. Treat it the same.
I do recommend you check there isn't anything stored in cabinets or bins that will freeze and burst.
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If you've drained the water, there is no reason to keep the inside warm. There are millions of RVs out there that are winterized and left to sit through the winter without heat or blankets, foam and insulating wraps. Ours spent three winters covered in snow with no ill effect. We drained ours, put in pink stuff (all drains and macerator - water heater bypassed), took out freezables, put peppermint oil sachets all over to deter mice, killed the power at the switch and walked away. We'd visit every month to exercise the generator.
Take away the water and you have a really big car. Treat it the same.
I do recommend you check there isn't anything stored in cabinets or bins that will freeze and burst.
AGREE 99%. I would only add, disconnect the ground from both the coach and chassis batteries.
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Good stuff. Thanks
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- Set the Ford cab HVAC to "recirculate" to prevent outside air from entering through the dash vents.
The 'motor' that holds the HVAC door in the 'recirc' position needs vacuum to hold this position. After the vehicle is off for some time, the HVAC reverts to fresh air intake. As far as a model years 1999-2007 anyway. Not sure on later.
The lack of vacuum also directs the air out of the windshield defroster vents, so a blanket laid across the base of the windshield may have some benefit. Again, 1999-2007 models. Not sure on later.
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It’s all good. Snow was covering the vents anyway. Lol. We are back up to the higher 30’s-40’s now so all is melting. Still, Good stuff to know.
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We turn our vents to off. It's become a habit when we park at a site. It helps with heat and cold.
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- Set the Ford cab HVAC to "recirculate" to prevent outside air from entering through the dash vents.
The 'motor' that holds the HVAC door in the 'recirc' position needs vacuum to hold this position. After the vehicle is off for some time, the HVAC reverts to fresh air intake. As far as a model years 1999-2007 anyway. Not sure on later.
The lack of vacuum also directs the air out of the windshield defroster vents, so a blanket laid across the base of the windshield may have some benefit. Again, 1999-2007 models. Not sure on later.
My 2014 chassis does the same. Like 2 Frazzled, we do the same, set the vehicle hvac to OFF when we stop at a site.
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- Set the Ford cab HVAC to "recirculate" to prevent outside air from entering through the dash vents.
The 'motor' that holds the HVAC door in the 'recirc' position needs vacuum to hold this position. After the vehicle is off for some time, the HVAC reverts to fresh air intake. As far as a model years 1999-2007 anyway. Not sure on later.
The lack of vacuum also directs the air out of the windshield defroster vents, so a blanket laid across the base of the windshield may have some benefit. Again, 1999-2007 models. Not sure on later.
Ford hasn't changed. Even with the vacuum reservoir and check valve that's in the system to help retain vacuum (when driving in a "low vacuum condition"--under prolonged acceleration for instance), the system eventually reverts to default when the engine is killed. Any effort you might want to direct toward air infiltration should be focused on the defrost vents.
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I learn something new all the time.
Everything people are sharing here makes perfect sense. When the E-Series chassis is parked for extended periods, the dash HVAC will slowly loose it's vacuum and automatically adjust to the default defrost setting. I like Volkemon's idea of placing a blanket on top of the dash over the defrost vents, if you want the RV closed up tight.
2o2