Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: Joseph on September 10, 2021, 02:22:12 pm
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A bit of info that will help anyone swapping out shocks. I just changed out the front shocks on my rig. It’s always been known the drivers side is tough to change and most learn new words in the process. There’s a boot inside to remove that helps gain access but it’s still a bit of a challenge.
Now attempting a diff approach I went to harbor freight to buy a few offset box wrenches to try. While there I found a 8 in 1 dog bone wrench with open socket type ends. All of $10 and with it I was able to change out the drivers side front shock taking only 5 mins longer than the passenger side and no frustration. I wish I could post a picture of the wrench. Anyone wanting a pic to assist in finding one of these wrenches send me a note and I will email you a pic.
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Thanks for the info on the wrench.
I've attached your photo here.
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Thank you for posting it. Very Much appreciated!!
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Doctor Baja 1K 2o2
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My hands are not fat.
I found that removing the two sharp-ended bolts from under the hood, allows for improved access from the "left" front side. As I recall, I used a box wrench to hold the top nut still, and turned the shock. CLICK HERE (https://forum.phoenixusarv.com/index.php?topic=3580.msg30529#msg30529) for details with pictures. Scroll down for the picture that illustrates it.
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Ron, this works better than an off set box wrench. It sets in much easier. This is easier than using the access point under the carpet inside the cab that’s designed for it. And yes, you spin the shock .
The rotator cuff of my left shoulder is having some serious strain on my dexterity and with this it’s a breeze. I’ve wasted a lot of money over the years on tools I thought were all that. This dog bone if I never use it again paid for itself in spades even if I threw it away. As they say , worked slicker than snake snot.
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I also want to thank you for your post. Just curious, is that wrench a metric or SAE. I am going to be going by Harbor Freight this week and I am going to pick one up when the time has come to replace the front shocks.
Gary
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Gary, it’s SAE. Thank you for pointing that out. My bad. There’s a few ways to get at that drivers side shock. This is just the easiest I’ve found by far where it stays in place. I should have thought of it and used one of their 20% off coupons. Can’t say I’ll ever use this wrench for anything else and I hope I don’t have to change out the shocks again but if I do …., Ah who am I kidding, I won’t remember where I stored the wrench.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5HAeFJX-Co
Check out this you tube link.
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KEB... Thank you for finding that video. Great video shows exactly how easy it makes the change out. He shows using another wrench from HF for the the lower nut on top of the shock. I hadn't thought of that. I just used an old wrench I had laying around. On the Koni shocks that I removed that nut is hard to get at because most wrenches are too thick. At least all I had were. I took an old wrench and ground it down to be thin enough to fit on the nut between the top shroud of the shock and the frame. This is really going to depend on the shocks your changing out.
For those that want to use the access point in the cab there's a You tube video of that out there somewhere as well.
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So I now have Gabriel fleet line shocks installed. I’ll be honest, I can’t tell the difference from the Koni. Will these last, did I make the right decision? I have no clue. What I do know is that after spending over $650 for Koni and their only lasting 40,000 miles I have a new pms. Planned maintenance schedule. Not changing in time cost me a $250 tire so from this point on I will change out front at roughly 35k miles and rears at no more than 40k miles. And I won’t bother paying three times the cost in search for a one time on a normal wear item.
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So I now have Gabriel fleet line shocks installed. I’ll be honest, I can’t tell the difference from the Koni.
https://www.koni-na.com/en-US/NorthAmerica/Products/Accessories/Decals/
(https://www.koni-na.com/getmetafile/b5942b09-02a0-42cd-8d88-e719c25ba3f1/1005070130.aspx)
Couple of the $1.60 silver shock stickers and no one else will be able to tell the difference either. roflol
I have been fortunate, and gotten to check out many expensive add-ons to cars - by being paid to install them for other people on their vehicles. Worked 5 years in a busy car/truck custom shop. The owner made the $$ from the sale of the items. I was just in it to see what REALLY made a difference. The pay was similar to a general repair mechanic. I got paid the same to install a $50 shock as I did to install a $300 shock. I would drive before the repair, to 'verify the complaint' and get 15-30 min flat rate to do so. Then I got to drive them right after to road test the replacement. Same day, same roads, same loads...it was a good testing environment.
Heard a LOT of marketing BS. From reps and customers. Condescending looks from the people that paid too much that assume I just am not knowledgeable/refined enough to 'feel' the difference their new intake/exhaust/fuel shark made on their ride. Surely THEY know their ride better than some guy who samples hundreds of vehicles and is trained to diagnose their problems. (nod)
It has made me into a VERY skeptical buyer...if you dont have numbers/facts to back up your claims... you aint getting my clams. (exactly)
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Volk. I have to agree from the lesson I just learned. I can’t tell the difference but these are new and the Koni have 40k. I thought one of the rears was bad too but I was wrong it wasn’t leaking but the other front was going bad. The front left had done so much creaking I kept checking my ball joint thinking it was going out. Now with the new Gabriel’s that stopped so that Koni was on its way out too. I guess all I can say is that in my case I feel like I wasted my money on hear say and a lot of hype. It’s hard for people to say they made a bad choice. Kind of like an item being priced at 399.99 and then the buyer tells the next guy he got it for just over $300.
The Koni cost me over 650 with no installation. I paid 250 for all four of the Gabriel fleet line. One I scored one for $20 on Amazon because he only had one left. So even at full price I’d be at about 300 for the set. How long they will last I haven’t a clue. But I’m willing to wager I’ll be money ahead.
Thanks volk for your insight!
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Joseph,
I am glad you found an affordable shock that works well for your PC.
With every trip we take with our PC, I am convinced more and more that a heavy duty shock is the right choice for the PC application. I chose HD-Bilsteins and are happy with them. You chose Gabriel and are happy with them.
I feel a softer shock (comfort ride) is not addressing the harsh ride properly. The proper tire pressure for the actual load is the best place to start.
If owners have PC model 2100 or 2350, I would weigh the rig to determine if the rig could benefit from softer front springs that handle the actual load without having so much excessive weight margin.
I have no experience with the rear suspension, but I wonder if models 2100 and 2350 built on an E450 chassis could benefit from the removal of a rear leaf spring or two.
Having springs that support the actual load without so much excessive margin will yield a more comfortable ride and also lower the stance by some amount. I know it is popular to raise the rear, but lowering the front with softer springs raises the rear by some amount.
Having a level rig is ideal. Having it stand a little lower has both pros with handling and cons with tail clearance.
One thing for certain, everyone has their own opinion on this subject matter.
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Ron, no doubt and I went with the heavy duty that they claim is used on coach house. I figure they’re roughly the same weight. One thing that I find isn’t a matter of opinion is that paying more won’t guarantee long life. Not making 40k miles and costing more than twice as much doesn’t impress me. I know it’s hell for anyone to admit they paid for something they didn’t get. I know because I just did. I paid over $650 and got a ride that was pretty much lumber wagon in comparison. I’ve mentioned the ride before in other threads. If these shocks only last, oh let’s say 20k miles I’m still ahead and I’ll bet you an ice cold one that they last longer than 20,000 miles. Now I could be wrong and owe you a cold one but I’m open to the risk, how about you? I currently run 9-11,000 miles a year so it’s not a long wait. The more I read the more I’d guess Monroe or any other name brand HD shock as well would probably do fine.
Now what I will promise right up front, if I’m wrong I’ll post it right up front. I have absolutely no issue with admitting I was wrong. In either case right or wrong it helps save someone else added expense.
No on the subject of ride. I haven’t been in a class C yet that wasn’t a lumber wagon when it come to bridge joints and rough roads. I hear the big heavy Diesel pushers ride very smooth but I have not spent any time in one so for me that’s still hear-say.
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I went ahead and changed my OEM front shocks for Bilstein HD ones. This change made a huge difference on my previous diesel pusher with 30K miles but is not so obvious when replacing the OEM shocks at 6K miles. The Bilsteins do seem to dampen larger movements better and are a little better on sharp bumps.
As most know, changing the drivers side can be a challenge. I purchased one of the Harbor Freight dog bone wrenches which didn't help removing the OEM shocks since the top nut was 21mm. It did work great for installing the new shocks since the top nut is 3/4".
To remove the old shock I cut down a 21mm deep well impact socket, so it would fit in the narrow space, and inserted a phillips screw driver in the detent hole on the side of the socket to keep it from turning. This worked surprisingly well, didn't have to remove the screws sticking down from the fender above or try to go through the hole in the floor board. No wrestling with keeping a box end wrench on the nut.
Kevin
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KEB , never thought about the oem being metric and no idea if HF offers it in metric. In my instance this was the second set of shocks so no metric.
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HF has a metric version but it only goes up to 19mm.
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As most know, changing the drivers side can be a challenge. I purchased one of the Harbor Freight dog bone wrenches which didn't help removing the OEM shocks since the top nut was 21mm. It did work great for installing the new shocks since the top nut is 3/4".
Kevin
The 'Standard' version has 13/16", which works for a 21MM. (16 thousandths difference) 3/4" works for a 19MM (20 thousandths difference). Especially when using 6 point. 2o2
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Agree the 13/16" should fit a 21mm, however for these nuts a 6 pt 13/16" socket would not go on. A 12 pt 13/16" will go on but not a 6 pt. socket.
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Agree the 13/16" should fit a 21mm, however for these nuts a 6 pt 13/16" socket would not go on. A 12 pt 13/16" will go on but not a 6 pt. socket.
Never argue with 'boots on the ground'. Good to know. THANKS. 2o2