Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: zolman on July 17, 2021, 05:02:30 pm
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I've learned so much from this forum I wanted to share a refurb I just did on my 2007 2551. I've used it twice and I love the results. My macerator ejects the sewage at a faster rate and is leak free.
1. Both my valves leaked so I replaced the gaskets and adjusted the screw settings on the auto drain valves. Those settings had worked themselves so the drains were slightly opened when in the shut position. After the adjustment I used some blue lock tight to prevent that from happening again.
2. I replaced my original Sani-Con black flex tube with a section of clear Hot Tub hose and then a much less expensive Valterra SS01 RV SewerSolution Drainage Kit with 10' Hose. This allowed me to visually see the black and gray water as the macerator ejected it into the hose. This helped me know when the tanks were completely cleaned when I flushed them clean. I kept my old Sani-Con hose to use as an extension to my Valterra hose. They both have the same ID.
3. I used the same clear hot tub tubing and 2, 1" ID hot tub 90 degree connectors to eliminate the restrictions from the macerator to the tubing. My original install only used 1, 90 degree connector.
4. I replaced the original small over flow tubing and added a longer replacement to avoid the kink in the original install
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Nice job you did there zoleman! Very cost effective too......something I am always mindful of.
2o2
And if over a longer period of time, you later learn that your alternative hose didn't work out so well after-all, there is nothing preventing you from buying another OEM hose and revert back to the original design.
Thanks also for the tips on the two waste gates.
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Hi Zolman,
Thank you for the writeup and photos. I've often preferred my stinky slinky because it has a clear section for inspection. (sorry for the Dr Seuss rhymes). My macerator quit and the new one just arrived. I'm thinking of adding this clear tube improvement as well. I have a few questions, if you don't mind...
After 4 months, any updates on how it has worked?
Anything you would do different?
What is the "overflow tube" that you replaced? Where does it go from/to? I have a 2010 version of a 2900 and I don't see anythiing like an overflow tube. I assume it was the last photo but I don't have anything similar on my PC.
Also, it might be just something they've changed over the years, but my macerator is barely within arm's reach of the coach wall, so I have more room to route the hose and i'm considering no 90 degree elbows at all in the plumbing route so the flow is not restricted. I think it all depends upon how flexible the clear tubing is and still avoid a kink. I might still need to use a 45 degree in place of a 90. As an engineer I know the impact of 90 elbow pipes on high volume flows. I had my entire backyard of pool, spa and fountains built with no 90s.
Thanks again, looking forward to your update.
Larry
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So at what point did PC change the system to the Sanicon 700?
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My 2015 2551 has one of the first 700s on it. In fact, the specific one on my PC is a pre-production engineering test unit. My unit was built in Dec of 2014. I believe they soon started using them as soon as Thetford started mass production on the 700. So that'd be sometime in 2015.
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Great Information!
RonJ
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I’ve heard the 700 is a much better (faster) system.
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I’ve heard the 700 is a much better (faster) system.
Earl (the old sales manager) told me that the 700 was 2 to 3 times faster than the old model. I do know that with full tanks, I can be in and out of a dump station in 5 minutes.
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I’ve heard the 700 is a much better (faster) system.
Earl (the old sales manager) told me that the 700 was 2 to 3 times faster than the old model. I do know that with full tanks, I can be in and out of a dump station in 5 minutes.
Faster is better. It does take me a little while to dump, even a bit longer with my replacement SeaFlo macerator. But I wonder how much more the extra pressure of the 700 series would expand my original slinky. I wonder if the 700 series requires a different slinky.
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Great information as usual. I had to fix a small leak where the pump fit into the pipe. Used a rubber coupling. No more leak. Anyway if we keep our RV longer I know I will have to fix or replace the pump. Can the 700 series replace the older pump?
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I've had both systems - the 700 is on my 2017 Sprinter, the others had the old Sanacon.
Jack
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Great information as usual. I had to fix a small leak where the pump fit into the pipe. Used a rubber coupling. No more leak. Anyway if we keep our RV longer I know I will have to fix or replace the pump. Can the 700 series replace the older pump?
Not a direct replacement, you need to modify the waste plumbing. The 700 doesn't use a bayonet mount. It has 4 "inputs" with the ABS waste plumbing is is cemented to 2 of them. The "emergency" 3" slinky valve and bayonet for a 3" hose gets cemented (along with a bayonet cap) and the 4th one is capped. The output is an upward line where you attach the macerator drain tubing and end.
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I’ve heard the 700 is a much better (faster) system.
Earl (the old sales manager) told me that the 700 was 2 to 3 times faster than the old model. I do know that with full tanks, I can be in and out of a dump station in 5 minutes.
Faster is better. It does take me a little while to dump, even a bit longer with my replacement SeaFlo macerator. But I wonder how much more the extra pressure of the 700 series would expand my original slinky. I wonder if the 700 series requires a different slinky.
I don't know about a different macerator slinky, mine original hose got pinholes in it after about 3 years. Easy to replace, $80 from Amazon at the time.
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Has anyone taken out the Sanicon 700 for repairs. Just got down to FL., hooked up to pump to find the pump is not turning. Its got power checked everything, so I went and picked up a discharge hose so we could drain the tanks... I really liked the Sanicon system, it was mess free and worked well (when it was working). I know they say you can remove the viewing port on the bottom and turn the pump over by hand, and if clogged clean it out. However, when I turn mine on I get nothing, almost like the motor is open and dead. I really believe the motor has died and needs to be replaced. Has anyone replaced one of these motor/pump assemblies? I see you can buy the motor/pump on E-Bay its a little pricy, but curious if anyone has just replaced the motor/pump assembly, part number for the motor/pump I believe is 97508.
Very Respectfully
Lance
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I just read my old post. Here is an update that another forum member requested.
Every thing is working perfectly with my sani con refurb. Been over 4,000 miles of trips with no problems.
Something I didn't mention in my original post is the I also refurbed all of my electrical connectors with contact cleaner, dialectic grease and liquid tape.
I am just completing a deal to trade my toy hauler for a used 3100. I'll be selling my 2551 soon. My wife likes the PC so much we are going to size up. Plus with blood thinners my motorcycle riding days are over.
The new PC addition will be a 2013 so I'll be doing the same sani con refurb..
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I am just completing a deal to trade my toy hauler for a used 3600. I'll be selling my 2551 soon. My wife likes the PC so much we are going to size up. Plus with blood thinners my motorcycle riding days are over.
The new PC addition will be a 2013 so I'll be doing the same sani con refurb..
Hip issues had me move up to three wheels, and I love it. Now I get to hear all the 'smart Alec' jabs I used to say to all the 'old guys' on trikes (exactly) ... and I grin at the ignorant kids, just like my elders did to me. roflol
Whats a 3600? Its a PC? Typo? THANKS! :)(:
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Contributors to this topic have encountered a problem similar to what I am experiencing. Appears there is a temporary resolution using tape, silicone, and clamps. All good ideas that work and postpone any emergency until I can get replacement parts.
I need help finding a source for the repair parts. The manual included with the rig doesn't offer an exploded view. Nothing labeling or describing parts. Thetford's online presence is equally unhelpful. Appears the entire assenbly is the only item offered. Ordering parts is made difficult by the complete absence of appropriate nomenclature.
My pump works. Nothing wrong with function. However, the case has a hairline crack. Opening the valves causes a very small leak. Looking at the assembly, it appears the midsection containing the discharge hose connection is replaceable. Getting frustrated by the lack of results in that search.
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The clear pipe I got is used on hot tubs. I think it was 2"????
The other tubing you can order off Amazon.
Valterra SS01 RV SewerSolution Drainage Kit with 10' Hose and Accessories
I see that you live in Alaska. When you are winterizing I would suggest that you disconnect and drain all tubing and the pump casinitself. I would be easy and well worth the effort to avoid any water left in the pump and tubing from causing damage.
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We had an original RV Sani-Con installed aftermarket on our 2005 diesel pusher. Was done by the product originator at his factory in Lexington, Kentucky many years before he sold the business to Thetford. I still have a brand new spare pump I used to carry just in case. Jabsco offered it me as part of a warranty issue. It now occurs to me that pump may now be irrelevant if the whole system has changed. We have a 2019 3100. I will check when we get home next month on the model number. I might have a "silent auction" item for a future event. Or perhaps I can make another friend.
And, yes, I really like the newer, larger discharge hose. When we were stationary for any significant time with the older Sani-Con system I would use a regular gravity hose to shorten the job.
Hank