Cruisers Forum
Main Forum => General Discussion => Topic started by: TheDude57 on December 08, 2020, 07:25:07 am
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Hi. This is my first winter owning my 2015 2552. I live in South Georgia. Temps occasionally may dip below freezing for a few hours. We don’t plan on storing it for the entire winter as we have a trip planned to Florida in January. Do I need to do a full blown winterization? Thank you.
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I would just drain all the water lines and tanks. If you have an air compressor, I would blow out the plumbing (only use 40 psi pressure), I would NOT put any rv antifreeze in the plumbing. Other than that, just standard storage procedures.
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Personally, I would. It's fairly quick to do and you'll get better at it after the first few times. The pink antifreeze is fairly inexpensive. Repairing the rig after frozen water lines break wouldn't be inexpensive. If the freeze is longer than expected, it might be too late to get the antifreeze in there.
We're full time and have been in freezing temps for hours without winterizing BUT we have the heat on inside. If we're going to be below freezing for more than a few hours, we dump the holding tanks and get antifreeze down the macerator, outside shower and in house drains.
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I live in Texas. It doesn't get below freezing too many times each year. On my previous RVs I just drained all the tanks and turned the furnace on if the temp was going to be below freezing for very long. I never had any issues. This is my first winter with a PC. Does anyone see any issues with that method for a PC?
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My rule of thumb with RVs is error on the side of caution. Control what you can control. Prepare for what you can’t control. Blowing out lines and/or added pink antifreeze are good suggestions. Personally, I would use pink antifreeze only. It is easy to do and low cost. Never had a problem with freezing over twenty years of RVing. The one and only Earl has some good videos on winterizing that may help, if needed.
Ron S
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Since freezes are rare where you are, and especially if you use your PC all winter, I would just have some heat on inside the coach. If your waste tanks are empty, the only worries would be the outside shower and macerator (it does not completely discharge.) I wish there was a way to turn off the lines to the outside shower since I never use it.
On another note, no one ever mentions or worries about the lines to the waste tank flush nozzles, which are completely exposed to the elements and impossible to drain, but you can blow them out. And I've never heard of anyone having a frozen pipe in those lines. I don't use them, since I don't feel they actually do much. To clean the waste tanks I use RV Digest It, which I feel is also the best holding tank waste treatment...no smell and thoroughly dissolves all solids, TP included (you can actually use real TP.) But that is a whole new thread if someone wants to go there.
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Our pump manual says to blow out lines with that. Drain all water, open all taps, run pump until no more water, close taps, use pump hose to suck op pink stuff, open taps one at a time until running pink, dump some pimk in traps, run some thru macerator, done.
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I see we all have different options...
OH well
Just one more bit of advice... RV antifreeze tastes HORRIBLE... Seriously. If you use it (as stated in my earlier reply.. I blow out the water lines) make sure you 100% run ALL water outlets until there is NO hint of pink left! This includes the external shower, internal shower, bathroom sink, toilet and kitchen sink BEFORE you switch the water heater bypass back to no longer bypassing the water heater.
I am serious, I used the "approved" winterizing steps, including rv antifreeze in the water lines and it took 3 wash outs of the lines before I could no longer taste that pink ***t in the water.
I never used it in my 2 prior RV's, and just that 1 time in the PC. Other than that one time.. For 23 years, just blowing the lines out with air has been fine.. Zero issues. And I live in Colorado where it gets below zero several times a year.. Sometimes for several days.
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Done 13
Where do you attach to blow out lines?
Every year I consider blowing out lines. I just worry something will go wrong. I used to blow my pool lines every year. Hated that because I was never satisfied I got everything out. Never had a problem though. My brother in law recently damaged his pump blowing out lines at his cottage. Things happen. I might consider blowing out lines if we used water to drink. But we always bring separate water to drink.
Every method is good as long as it works!
Ron S
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I have to ditto Donc on the pink poison. I tried it once last winter and had an equal difficulty removing the taste and smell and feel of it. I've air blown all our campers for over 30 years with no problem.
Also, a little water left in a line is not going to do damage if it has room to expand. There is no way to remove all of the water in the hot water tank. It freezes but has room to expand. There must be enough room in the waste tank sprayer lines for that expansion or we would all have broken pipes down there.
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Done 13
Where do you attach to blow out lines?
Every year I consider blowing out lines. I just worry something will go wrong. I used to blow my pool lines every year. Hated that because I was never satisfied I got everything out. Never had a problem though. My brother in law recently damaged his pump blowing out lines at his cottage. Things happen. I might consider blowing out lines if we used water to drink. But we always bring separate water to drink.
Every method is good as long as it works!
Ron S
On my earlier 2 RV's I installed an adapter on the input to the pump. Similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Converter-Winterizing-TRV874795/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=mp_s_a_1_81?dchild=1&keywords=blowout+kit+rv&qid=1607464571&sr=8-81
And instead of sucking in antifreeze, you put a air hose quick connect on the plastic line.
You drain the hot water tank. If you can, then bypass it (or not). Drain fresh water tank. and then:
You don't run the pump, just connect an air hose with about 40 to 50 psi on it. Turn the input valve (that you just added) to the water pump so it's getting compressed air. You don't need to turn the pump on. Then go to the furthest spicket, open cold, let the water blow out until it's just a mist. Close cold, turn on hot.. Same, wait for mist, close valve. Work your way back to the spicket closest to pump and then the low point drains. Don't forget the toilet.
Disconnect the air compressor, turn the input valve you added back to the water tank... You're done.
If you have an Anderson 3 or 4 way valve on your PC, just get an adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/iFJF-Compressor-Quick-Connect-Winterize-watercraft/dp/B07M5JCJJS/ref=mp_s_a_1_61?dchild=1&keywords=blowout+kit+rv&qid=1607465707&sr=8-61
Hook it to city water inlet with Anderson valve set to suction. Then the steps above to blow out the lines. Remove adapter and compressor, you're done.
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I have to ditto Donc on the pink poison. I tried it once last winter and had an equal difficulty removing the taste and smell and feel of it. I've air blown all our campers for over 30 years with no problem.
Also, a little water left in a line is not going to do damage if it has room to expand. There is no way to remove all of the water in the hot water tank. It freezes but has room to expand. There must be enough room in the waste tank sprayer lines for that expansion or we would all have broken pipes down there.
Agree! :)(: ;) :)
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Great Information. Thank you all.
Jeff
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On my earlier 2 RV's I installed an adapter on the input to the pump. Similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-36543-Converter-Winterizing-TRV874795/dp/B0006JJ588/ref=mp_s_a_1_81?dchild=1&keywords=blowout+kit+rv&qid=1607464571&sr=8-81
And instead of sucking in antifreeze, you put a air hose quick connect on the plastic line.
You drain the hot water tank. If you can, then bypass it (or not). Drain fresh water tank. and then:
You don't run the pump, just connect an air hose with about 40 to 50 psi on it. Turn the input valve (that you just added) to the water pump so it's getting compressed air. You don't need to turn the pump on. Then go to the furthest spicket, open cold, let the water blow out until it's just a mist. Close cold, turn on hot.. Same, wait for mist, close valve. Work your way back to the spicket closest to pump and then the low point drains. Don't forget the toilet.
Disconnect the air compressor, turn the input valve you added back to the water tank... You're done.
If you have an Anderson 3 or 4 way valve on your PC, just get an adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/iFJF-Compressor-Quick-Connect-Winterize-watercraft/dp/B07M5JCJJS/ref=mp_s_a_1_61?dchild=1&keywords=blowout+kit+rv&qid=1607465707&sr=8-61
Hook it to city water inlet with Anderson valve set to suction. Then the steps above to blow out the lines. Remove adapter and compressor, you're done.
Here's hoping that I NEVER have to winterize our PC..... but this would be my go-to guide. THANKS Don13! :)(:
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2013 2552. Under the bottom cabinet under the sink, there are 2 pull up valves H/C that drain a lot of water. Where does all of this water come from? I still take the cap off the hot water tank and drain, open the drain on the fresh water tank. Then all the other stuff as above.
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Those are low-point drains of the water lines. A lot of water still comes out after draining the lines when you blow out the system.
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Donc13
Once again thanks for sharing all your knowledge regarding PC items.
I already have the bypass kit installed on the water pump. So I just need to buy a blow out plug. I will consider this method next year. But I have to investigate how my city water connection is tapped into the plumbing system. We have not used the city water connection yet. We just fill the water tank and use the pump. I have not looked for any type of 3-4way valve on the city water connection nor do I remember seeing any under the driver side bed storage area. This info is important to clear the city connection line of water with the compressed air.
Ron S
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Sarz
I have the same year 2551 as you, and it does not have the 3-4 way valve, just the street-side city water connection.
Here is another very easy way to blow out your system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHK5k1P0DZM
Get the type of plug that your air hose can quick-connect to, like this one:
https://www.google.com/search?q=rv+blowout+plug&rlz=1C1CHFX_enUS749US749&oq=rv&aqs=chrome.0.35i39j69i57j69i59l2j0i67l4.1948j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
and set your compressor to 30-35 psi output.
Dougn
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I live in central Texas where the temperature reaches freezing or below only on occasion and for only a short period of time; usually overnight. My PC is stored in a covered spot (not enclosed) with a 30 amp hookup. Last year, I did not winterize. I leave the water heater on and also the tank heaters. I pour a little pink down all the drains and not convinced that this is necessary. If the temps are expected to be really low and/or for an extended period, I will turn on the propane furnace and set the thermostat at it's lowest setting, which I believe is 40. I suffered no problems.
Cheers :)(:
Barry T
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2 Lucky
Thanks for that info. There must must some kind of back flow valve near the city connection. If not, the system would not seal. I like putting the blowout plug and quick connect at the city water input. Much easier than crawling around inside and assures one gets all water out. Our 2010 2551 PCs are some much simpler than newer models. I like that a lot.
Do you know where the city connection ties into the water system? By the pump? By the shower?...
You Colorado guys come through again!! Thanks much!!
Ron S.
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Donc13
Once again thanks for sharing all your knowledge regarding PC items.
I already have the bypass kit installed on the water pump. So I just need to buy a blow out plug. I will consider this method next year. But I have to investigate how my city water connection is tapped into the plumbing system. We have not used the city water connection yet. We just fill the water tank and use the pump. I have not looked for any type of 3-4way valve on the city water connection nor do I remember seeing any under the driver side bed storage area. This info is important to clear the city connection line of water with the compressed air.
Ron S
The City water connection connects to the cold water line, probably by the shower. There is a backflow preventer built in right at the city water connection. It's simply a spring loaded "flap" that works like a one way valve. There is another similar spring loaded flap in the water pump outlet to the cold water line.
So, if you are going to use the city water line for the air compressor attachment... There's one additional step you need to take... After blowing out the lines, leave the low point drains OPEN and disconnect the compressor (but leave the adapter on the city water connector. Turn on the water pump for a minute or two... This will drain any water in the line between the fresh water tank and the water pump's input. It's not a lot of water, but will also clear out the pump head. Shut the water pump off, reconnect the air compressor and blow out that small amount of water via the low point drains. Disconnect the compressor and adapter, close the low point drains, you' re done.
BTW, after blowing the lines out, I do use RV antifreeze to winterize the sink and shower traps. I use a full gallon between the 3, which is more than enough to keep them from freezing.
Don
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Ron S
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The City water connection connects to the cold water line, probably by the shower. There is a backflow preventer built in right at the city water connection. It's simply a spring loaded "flap" that works like a one way valve. There is another similar spring loaded flap in the water pump outlet to the cold water line.
So, if you are going to use the city water line for the air compressor attachment... There's one additional step you need to take... After blowing out the lines, leave the low point drains OPEN and disconnect the compressor (but leave the adapter on the city water connector. Turn on the water pump for a minute or two... This will drain any water in the line between the fresh water tank and the water pump's input. It's not a lot of water, but will also clear out the pump head. Shut the water pump off, reconnect the air compressor and blow out that small amount of water via the low point drains. Disconnect the compressor and adapter, close the low point drains, you' re done.
BTW, after blowing the lines out, I do use RV antifreeze to winterize the sink and shower traps. I use a full gallon between the 3, which is more than enough to keep them from freezing.
Don
Agreeing with Donc above on running the pump to clear the water line there. I'd like to add to open the gray tank valve after filling the sink and shower p-traps, then run the macerator until you see the pink to protect that pump also. Easy to do and you don't have to drink it! :)(: